Manual Transmission - Clutch won't disengage!
04-13-2012, 11:33 AM
I have just finished my engine rubuild. I have a new clutch(spec), flywheel (fidanza), slave and MC line (my other was leaking at the disco.) I have a tick adjustable MC. I have shim thickness correct. But the clutch still won't disengage enough for me to get it into gear. Any help would be appreciated at this point I dont know what to do.
And yes the system is completely bleed
04-14-2012, 03:53 PM
I am dealing with this issue right now too. WTF?? Not trying to hijack, but how do you know your shim is correct? I measured everything but couldn't find any specs for a LS7 clutch so I just installed with no shim.
04-25-2012, 10:15 AM
If you are positve it is bleed properly and still doesn't disengage all the way it is very likely the spec clutch. It seems they are all a little different. The first one I ever had was awesome. When it wore out I bought another one and using the same slave cylinder shim it wouldn't disengage all the way. After trying everything possible I had to use one steel shim and one of the old green paper shims they used to come with to get it to disengage all the way. The clutch only lasted 3 race days and was toast. Another friend of mine went through the exact same thing and if you search on here you will find a ton of the same issues. I also used a Fidanza flywheel and adjustable master cyl (stock master cyl with adjustable linkage rod) when I had mine. I swithed to a Mcleod twin and I have no problems, it is much smoother and will probably last 5 times as long since it is an organic disc like a stock clutch. My buddy also switched to a McLeod. The car should not move at all when you rev it up in gear. Hopefully you havn't done any damage to your sancros yet. I feel your pain, good luck.
Here are some bleeding tips
Make sure ther is no low spots in the hyd line from the slave cyl to the master cyl for are to get traped in.
Only push the clutch 1/2 way down until the bleeder screw is cracked and then push the pedal the rest of the way to the floor.
Leave the cap on the master cyl loose when pumping pedal to allow air to escape.
I usually try to get the driver side of the car slightly higher than the passenger side so the air is directed to the bleeder screw side.
If the oil is dirtly looking the slave or master cyl or both may be wearing out and need replaced
04-25-2012, 12:18 PM
I found the problem! I purchased new arp pressure plate bolts an the washers supplied were to big dia and they were holdin the disk to the flywheel therefore preventing the clutch from disengaging.
2001TransAm look here http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1030815-does-your-clutch-setup-need-shim.html
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