Drag Racing Tech - 8.2 second 1/8th with 2.73 gears?!

i ran an 8.233 with a 2.0 60 foot.i thought that was pretty cool since i have 2.73's what do you think would happen if i were to install 3.73's?or 3.90's? do you think i would shave off a full second?

ls6 intake
slp lid
pacesetter LT's
3in ORY
borla exhaust
qtp cutout
lunati 55008 hydraulic roller
241 heads(not sure if they're stock inside)
full tune
2.73 gears
SFC
boxed control arms
stock suspension
street tires
ace racing transmission stage 2
revmax 3600 stall

Race weight and DA?
60' sucks cause of street tires... Therefore ET is a bit off. Get a set of tires and see what you run, that setup should be in the 7s.

lemons is lying ,op you have a factory freak lol

what was the rest of the slip? trap speed most importantly. i'd be mad with all them mods and still running in the 8s.

with a gear swap you'll likely see 2 tenths drop with the same 60' time. gears dont help much when you are on street tires and already have a stall.

Go to 373s and you will run slower.

Seems slow i ran a 8.227 earlier today with a 1.93 60 foot on bald street tires, stock suspension, stock stall, and 2.73's with a h/c 383 lt1.

With 2.73's (which was fun on the street) I was 2.0 60' all day and 13.5's and not really bad since I could take 1st to 80, grab 2nd and burry the speedometer (120) having fun on the street.
Went to 3.73's and 13.2's was the best it would do :(
Then came motor upgrades,bigger stall,more gear,solid roller cam......

Anywho...congrats.

so seems like some of you guys are claiming i should be in the 7's? like what?7.9?that was my goal.but i think i have some spinning issues and i need to get it retuned.i am going with Texas drivetrain performance 3.73 gears and get it retuned with some full slicks so i dont spin.
trap was 87.7
330 foot was 67 mph (i think)
DA was unsure.(whats a DA?)
so i had to have been spinning to get a 2.0 60foot.
reaction time was .047

also i think my heads are stock inside and the guy i bought it from claimed it was an ls6 intake,but not real sure of that also,so im going with a fast 90

its not that you should be in the 7s, without a doubt you'd be in the 7s with radials...

i'd think 7.8ish with ideal track and tires. you'd need a 1.7x-1.8x 60' which should be easy with your converter.

its not that you should be in the 7s, without a doubt you'd be in the 7s with radials...

i'd think 7.8ish with ideal track and tires. you'd need a 1.7x-1.8x 60' which should be easy with your converter.

True Story. Radials over slicks in your case definetely. Your mph is good for 7.8s but that all depends on weather/track conditions. You may even cut a high 1.6 with your size converter.

i'd save my money on the fast and just do an LS6 intake. you could spend the rest of that money on other things.

i ran an 8.233 with a 2.0 60 foot.i thought that was pretty cool since i have 2.73's what do you think would happen if i were to install 3.73's?or 3.90's? do you think i would shave off a full second?

ls6 intake
slp lid
pacesetter LT's
3in ORY
borla exhaust
qtp cutout
lunati 55008 hydraulic roller
241 heads(not sure if they're stock inside)
full tune
2.73 gears
SFC
boxed control arms
stock suspension
street tires
ace racing transmission stage 2
revmax 3600 stall

8.233 is roughly calculated out to 12.80 which

Basic Operating RPM Range 3,000-6,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift 237 int./242 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.595 int./0.595 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112

Kinda of a big cam considering the not so big stall converter.

Gearing will help yes, but not as much a QUALITY converter, something in the mid 4k range, Circle D or in that range of converter.

An all out N/A set up would have you more in the 4.10 range, especially when your racing 1/8th mile. Some go for 4.30's on a A4 trans.

You may have a situation where the cam/converter choice is not best for the type of racing your doing. I would have step down on cam as its costly and that cost can go to the converter. Spend 300ish for a used 10 bolt with 3.73-4.10 gearing.

so next tme i go to track im gonna do this

mickey thompson DR's
3.73 gears ( texas drivetrain performance)
and battery relocation

i'm no expert at these cars by any means, but with all those mods seems lijke you should be alot faster than 8.2... my stock 02 ws6 with only a lid k&n and smooth bellows ripped off a 8.17 at 80.78 this past friday. before lid upgrades best was 8.38 at 79.5 that is on brand new street tires (nitto nt 555's)

Definitely should be faster. I went 8.3@88mph with full exhaust,slp lid,semi tune and 2.73's in the 02 camaro i recently got. After swapping to 3.73 and sticky tires i went a 7.95@89mph all this with stock converter.

i'm no expert at these cars by any means, but with all those mods seems lijke you should be alot faster than 8.2... my stock 02 ws6 with only a lid k&n and smooth bellows ripped off a 8.17 at 80.78 this past friday. before lid upgrades best was 8.38 at 79.5 that is on brand new street tires (nitto nt 555's)

Go find a dyno graph of his cam and compare it to a stock LS1 on a engine dyno.

The term your looking for is "Under the Curve" power and since he is racing 1/8th mile he is not nearly using any of that cam which is considered a top end cam. Bet it does not even come alive until 4,000+ RPMS

A mis-match converter and cam is never a good thing.

The only "problem" with this setup is the tire selection. Can things be improved? Absolutely. But tires are demolishing the times.

An Ms4 cam if set up properly can run awesome in the 1/8.

yeah that thing should be a good bit faster... IMO anyway. thats almost a full bolt on cam only setup... I understand that low 7s are not very common but even 8.0s with stock gearing wouldnt be too fast.

I hope the gearing helps ya though. I don't think you'll see a full second drop... possibly a .3 or maybe .4 drop being that camshaft is soo big. You really need a 4,000+rpm converter and a 4.10 gear to make a cam that big work in a stock motor.

The term your looking for is "Under the Curve" power and since he is racing 1/8th mile he is not nearly using any of that cam which is considered a top end cam. Bet it does not even come alive until 4,000+ RPMS

A mis-match converter and cam is never a good thing.

I'm gonna have to agree with this.

I have people ask me all the time how does your car run so fast, how did you get it to run 6.30's?!?!? Then when I tell them what it has done to it(cam-only and weight reduction) they are astounded and find it hard to believe as most of them have cam-only cars also.

It comes down to proper converter and cam selection. You should be using at least a 4400ish converter for that cam to shine and a 3.90 gear and if you are racing 1/8th mile almost all the time a 4.11 or 4.30 gear would be ideal as would a slightly larger stall.

If you have an overdrive trans with a lock up converter a big stall and deeper gears aren't bad at all. As soon as the converter locks at 40-45mph(granted you have a competent tuner who can get the ve table right at that mph and rpm so it doesn't buck or surge) it will drive like it is stock again.

My car when it was a N/A set-up had a 9" Circle D Billet converter that was rated to stall at 5000rpm, but in reality it flashed 5900rpm off the line. My cam made peak torque right at 5800-6000rpm so having the converter flash right to that rpm put my car right into it's peak power band instantly. Then the 4.11 rear gears and aggressive stator combination in the converter allowed the rpm's to only drop 750-850rpm during each shift.

I shifted the car at 7000-7200 rpm and through the traps in the 1/8th at 6700-6800 depending on shift points and 7100-7200 through the traps in the 1/4.

Now that I am spraying the car with a 250-300 shot I had the same 9" converter worked over by FTI. I had it restalled to where it shouild stall 4400-4500 on motor on launch and still flash to 5800-5900 on a 250-300 shot. This will keep it in the same powerband it loved so much and worked so well on motor. The stator isn't as aggressive in this one because the nitrous will help pull the motor's rpm back up through the gear change. It should still only drop 850-900rpm during shifts.

It's all about matching your car's power band and amount of power to it's drivetrain parts and components.

In a street car you are trying to balance a nice driver and performance.

In a race car this is easier to do as it's only about all out performance.

A 9" converter is NOT the proper choice for a low HP application.

i have 2.73's what do you think would happen if i were to install 3.73's?or 3.90's? do you think i would shave off a full second?

That would be nice! :D

Go to 373s and you will run slower.

Never seen that happen.

With 2.73's (which was fun on the street) I was 2.0 60' all day and 13.5's...........Went to 3.73's and 13.2's was the best it would do

This is about what I have seen on average.

i ran the time in my sig with heavy ass C5 z06 knock offs and nexens. my car has the 3.23 gearing option for the autos

Already traction challenged because of tires... Keep the same tires on with 373s and it will run slower. I spun my ass of with just 323s VS 273s.

Change tires and see several tenths drop off... Change to 373s pick up another .1-.2.

A 9" converter is NOT the proper choice for a low HP application.


Can't argue with results.

You can sit here all day and tell me why it isn't suppose to be the proper choice and how an 8" is better, and I can sit on my results.

Not trying to argue, but I got that feeling from your post. If you want to nit pick though, the converter was in the car when I bought it.

My personal 8" converter set the Cam Only record of 9.98 @ 132

You were offered free advice. Unfortunately you're taking it the wrong way.

well if it makes you feel any better I could only get my m6 to 8.3 @89 with the same 60ft

ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?

My personal 8" converter set the Cam Only record of 9.98 @ 132

You were offered free advice. Unfortunately you're taking it the wrong way.

Mine wasn't very far behind at all if much.

It also had 4.30 gears, and a single plane.

I know he is mostly right and that an all out 100% max effort lightweight n/a car would benefit more from the 8".

It worked and worked pretty well, but no it wasn't 100% optimal. It worked out though because it is perfect for what I plan to do now and is far from the same converter it's had just about everything changed.

I almost thought about keeping it because it worked so well on motor and just buy a new nice custom nitrous stall, but I decided to save the money.

Sorry op and to who that guy Firehawk thinks I took the wrong way. I would look into a restall and a change of gears. Sorry for the hijack.

ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?

Yank is popular, I am though not a fan of them so it is what it is. The specs on the cam is big for a stock headed/CR LS1 which means it needs to see some RPM off the hit.

If you leave more air in then on average like 16-18, a good burn out and stall the crap out of it, you should do well. BUT you may also hook so well, the car now BOGS which is even work. Adding 2" in O/D will lower your gearing even more. I personally think a good set of DR on a auto car would be more than fine.

When it comes to the 10 bolt basically you more often then not are better off buying used as to build one up or rebuild is a good chunk towards a 9"/12 bolt.

You would need a new posi if the gearing is I think anything above 3.42 in a 2 series, but I would have to check, what your looking at is def a 3 series which like you see is $$$.

ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?

So your thinking of keeping the stock diameter converter, just going to a larger stall.
This way you will be able to keep converter lock up. If you dont care about lock up you may want to consider an 8" converter.
If your converter is locking up during your pass it could be bringing your rpms down and taking your motor out of where it wants to be in the rpm range. These are all things to consider, especially in 1/8th mile perfromance.
You have to ask yourself
How much do you drive this car?
Is this my only means of transportation?
If it breaks can I fix it?
I can tell you wth pretty good certainty that if you threw in a th350, 430 gears and drag radials with a little weight reduction you'd be well into the low 7's easy,maybe even a high 6 with a GOOD CUSTOM converter AND tune, all depends on what you want to do with the car overall and how much scratch you have to keep the car on the track. ;)
Naturally aspirated 1/8th mile racing set ups are the ABSOLUTE worst combinations for a street/strip set up.
Get some nitrous :devil:

Naturally aspirated 1/8th mile racing set ups are the ABSOLUTE worst combinations for a street/strip set up.
Get some nitrous :devil:

Tek hit it on the head with this one!

I just did the switch and the 4500 stall drives so much better than the old stall which was pretty much a 6000 stall.

I just did the switch and the 4500 stall drives so much better than the old stall which was pretty much a 6000 stall.

DopeFedZ, Carlos kept the 2:73's and just sprayed the crap outta it. Has well over 100,000 miles on the car, drives it everywhere and last I remember deep into the lowwwwwww 10's in the 1/4. Best of both worlds! :D
You are kinda following his set up for street/strip performance.

Get some nitrous :devil:

Until I see your intake on my bench, You're all :bs:

BTW....How do you like this new toy?



http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss17/firehawk441/securedownload1111.jpg

Got to go clean myself up. :lol:

Until I see your intake on my bench, You're all :bs:

BTW....How do you like this new toy?



http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss17/firehawk441/securedownload1111.jpg

Hahahaha, I love your new toy-I'd like it even more in a car that actually ran. :jest:
What u got the car down to, like 8, maybe 9lbs raceweight? U could put a train wheel behind that flexplate and it wouldn't make a difference. :jest:

I'll have my intake on your bench soon enough, not like you're gonna be racing or anything. :rotflmao:

Oh btw, my I ordered my rear, should b here in a couple weeks, which means a month but still. :D

Got to go clean myself up. :lol:

Just put your seatbelt on. :jest:

Hahahaha, I love your new toy-I'd like it even more in a car that actually ran. :jest:
What u got the car down to, like 8, maybe 9lbs raceweight? U could put a train wheel behind that flexplate and it wouldn't make a difference. :jest:

I'll have my intake on your bench soon enough, not like you're gonna be racing or anything. :rotflmao:

Oh btw, my I ordered my rear, should b here in a couple weeks, which means a month but still. :D

I'll never learn NOT to mess with the Brooklyn man. :jest:

I can't wait to see that rear setup. Glad to hear it's in motion. :burn:

BTW... It's painted. I'll send you some pics

Your letting me off that EASY????? :ripped:
I better watch my back now. :secret2:

Ok I look foward to those pics. :)

Your letting me off that EASY????? :ripped:
I better watch my back now. :secret2:

I'll have to give you this round BUT.....
At least you know it's coming.....:buttkick:

OK! went back to track with some MT streets 28 inch slicks and cut a 1.91 60' with a personal best of 8.13 in the 1/8th.im satisfied but not too impressed.i made three passes.first two were 2.0 60's and then finally saw 1.91.but my trap speed was only 86.3 instead of 87.7.only thing different was the m/t street slicks.not radials.they were my buddies.on 15" iroc wheels.i have come to determine that my convertor is not matching my cam too well.
QUESTION:can i run a 10 bolt 3.73 from a traction control car with my car which has no traction control?im not worried about my abs.(the light is always on anyway).thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YD7D7PXe2i8&feature=youtu.be

QUESTION:can i run a 10 bolt 3.73 from a traction control car with my car which has no traction control?im not worried about my abs.(the light is always on anyway).thanks


YES. :burn:

.but my trap speed was only 86.3 instead of 87.7.only thing different was the m/t street slicks.

Going from DR's to slick will definately lower your mph.
I personally dont think u need slicks at your power level, dr's will work and make the car ET better and mph higher.
FYI, as your 60' gets better your ET mph will go down a little.

I'll have to give you this round BUT.....
At least you know it's coming.....:buttkick:

You guys are like little kids seeing who's tonka truck is bigger and can smash the others sand castle more.:jest:

Anywhere I can find some details on DopefedZ's set-up Tek?

I JUST BOUGHT A YANK SS4000.very excited to see how much better it will match up to the lunati 55008.i think thats why im not in the 7's yet.

Looks like he stepped up to 3:73's since I remember. Either that or I have members confused :jest:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/features/1003gmhtp_1998_pontiac_trans_am/index.html

Looks like he stepped up to 3:73's since I remember. Either that or I have members confused :jest:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/features/1003gmhtp_1998_pontiac_trans_am/index.html

i didnt get my 3.73s installed yet.i got the ring and pinion and the auburn posi.just sitting at my buddies shop.im picking up the yank on thursday.hopefully all will go in by the weekend,but thats wishful thinking.

Stay away from the 28 inch slick (especially on a 2.73 gear)
and run at a Max. 275/50/15 or 275/40/17 drag radial and you will see a huge improvement.