Manual Transmission - single disk vs twin disk...searched but found nothing

i searchedbut really found no comparison info on running like a stage 3 or 4 vs a twin disk like the mcleod xrt or whatever it is.....i know that the twin disk will have a smoother engagement, semi similar to stock, and can handle much more power load.....when is a single disk better than a twin and when is a twin better than single? which is better for drag.....daily driver? how much more difficult to install a twin disk? is it ok to run a twin disk at near stock power levels? if you maybe do 20 passes a year, and probly drive about 15000 miles a year, how long would a twin disk last? is the only downside the price?

Theres really no down side to running a twin disc other than the extra cost. They're not any harder to install than a single. You pretty much summed it up in you post, the twin will hold more power with much better drivability. A twin can last just aslong if not longer than a single disc, it just depends on your driving habbits. I have a the RXT twin in my car and I love it! Drives great on the street and bits hard at the track. Just look at the 60ft in my sig.

dude.. lol 1.40 60 ft is nasty nice job...

i love my rxt as well. as far as clutches go imo its the clutch to have. You can have it from stock power if you plan to add power later on and only want to buy one clutch all the way up to 1000 horsepower. You pay no penalty of driveability on a lower powered car. the only time a single disk is better IMO is when you dont want to pay for the twin disk, or you just really dont need a twin disk...

It can have tiny bits of chatter at times if you try to slip it at excessively low rpm... which i do time to time because i have no exhaust after my turbo... Im talking about taking off at 12-1300 rpms trying to be quiet lol. i think probably any clutch including stock would do it. Otherwise the clutch is amazing. Light pedal and great driveability. An added bonus mcleod says they can rebuild the clutch for around 500 bucks.

aight cool......idk ill probly go twin disk and get that complete package from tick......grrrr2000 for clutch and hydraulics.....i know its still cheap but damn

oooo and im looking at my flywheel options....i definately want to pay the extra 100 bucks for the balanced flywheel right? do i want a billet steel or billet aluminum? is one better for street driving? is the steel like 23pounnds and the aluminum like 13 or 18?

its an extra 150 for the aluminum...is it worth it

i wouldnt go aluminum but thats just me. Just get a sfi billet flywheel. i got a ram one, was 250 i think.

fwi: the rxt works great with stock hydraulics as well..

soooo if its only two extra pieces, why does atwin disk cost like 6-700 more than a monster clutch?

soooo if its only two extra pieces, why does atwin disk cost like 6-700 more than a monster clutch?
uh it doesnt. i bought my rxt for 806 shipped. after buying billet flywheel and a new slave it was 1050 total from ws6store. a stage 3 is 729 and holds 700 horsepower. it will not drive as nice as a twin disk, it will have a stiffer pedal. your hydraulics may not like that stiffer pedal and might not move enough fluid for it, so budget 300 for a tick. not seeing your 600-700 dollars.

Cant go wrong with a twin disc setup!!! Like mentioned above it really has no downsides minus the cost. If you are going to the track every other week (roughly 20-26 times a year) Then a twin is going to last a lot longer!!! Normal driving, we have guys on a monster that have had them for 30-40K miles. My theory is, if you are planning to make big power later, just go ahead and get the right clutch now, it will be one less thing you will have to replace later. And you are right by looking at the complete clutch package. The factory master is going to have trouble with a twin setup, heck they have trouble with any setup ;). So having your upgraded clutch hydraulics will make that thing perform at its best and it will be a beast!!!

no problems at all with my stock master and rxt. i dont have the stock line with quick connect though which may help. i have a 3an line with the russel adapters which may help with no restrictors and what not.

Just hope it aint a mcleod, Had a hell of a time with mine RAM finally figured out my issue

Question, can the rst handle any drag racing at all on some MT ET streets? I want the most streetable clutch I can find and still be able to take it to the strip 4-6 times a year. Money is an issue I suppose. No more than 1400.00 for the clutch, flywheel, slave, pilot and some new -3AN lines. I am using a 7/8" wilwood master in the RX-7. I am planning on maybe 100-130 more HP so a monster stage 2 is out and the stage 3 just isn't what I want in drivability.

Question, can the rst handle any drag racing at all on some MT ET streets? I want the most streetable clutch I can find and still be able to take it to the strip 4-6 times a year. Money is an issue I suppose. No more than 1400.00 for the clutch, flywheel, slave, pilot and some new -3AN lines. I am using a 7/8" wilwood master in the RX-7. I am planning on maybe 100-130 more HP so a monster stage 2 is out and the stage 3 just isn't what I want in drivability.

The RST will do just fine for what you want. Its rated to 800hp. My RXT is very smooth and the RST is even smoother. You can't can go wrong with the Mcleod RST/RXT line of clutches!

Question, can the rst handle any drag racing at all on some MT ET streets? I want the most streetable clutch I can find and still be able to take it to the strip 4-6 times a year. Money is an issue I suppose. No more than 1400.00 for the clutch, flywheel, slave, pilot and some new -3AN lines. I am using a 7/8" wilwood master in the RX-7. I am planning on maybe 100-130 more HP so a monster stage 2 is out and the stage 3 just isn't what I want in drivability.

the rst is still an organic clutch and mcleod strongly recommended not using that clutch at the strip with sticky tires when i talked to them.. The rxt was only 150 bucks more when i was looking. driveability is not a problem. id rather spend a little extra then smoke a still expensive rst clutch at the strip. if you were gonna stay street tires it would probably be fine. hell you might get away with it, but its a gamble i think.

besides you should be able to do all that for well less then 1400 with what you listed and a rxt

I've always liked the low rebuild cost of the McLeod when compared to the "other" guys. I just don't want any chatter. I'll look more deeply into the rxt rather than the rst as I would like to give drag radials a try.