Drag Racing Tech - Help with strange adjustables. UPDATED 10/18

I went to the track for the first time this weekend on my build and I was getting some wheel hop. I have strange single adjustable in the back and coil overs in the front. I have the back set at 7 and the front at 5 for the extension knob. I am on the stock lca's. The track prep was good that day but I was still spinning off the line. Tire pressure was at 15 psi, running on hosier qtp's

I am new to suspension and I am unsure of even where to start. I was thinking at the track to have the backs somewhat stiffer to help put the power down.

Best 60 foot in the vid. 1.81 off 4200 launch. I have a line lock on the way to help with burnouts mods in sig.



****ROUND 2 AT POST 19****

****ROUND 3 AT POST 39****

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xjm995sKDdM&feature=player_embedded

A good set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets would definitely help with the wheel hop considering you are running stock lower control arms. What kind of tire pressure were you running?

My hoosier drag radials like 14psi so wouldn't the QTP be able to run lower psi? I've never read up on them though.

Im an auto car but my rear shocks liked it best on the 5th click from fully soft which would be the 6th position. A click in either direction and I'd loose 60' time, my fronts are also softer than that. I'm learning suspension thing too so idk how much help i am

My hoosier drag radials like 14psi so wouldn't the QTP be able to run lower psi? I've never read up on them though.

Im an auto car but my rear shocks liked it best on the 5th click from fully soft which would be the 6th position. A click in either direction and I'd loose 60' time, my fronts are also softer than that. I'm learning suspension thing too so idk how much help i am

Generally a good starting point for the shocks is a couple clicks from full soft in the front and and a couple clicks from full stiff in the rear. This will allow the front end to come up and transfer weight easier and keep pressure on the rear tires. I am not very familiar with the Hoosier tires but I know with M/T drag radials we tend to run them between 18-21 psi and with the M/T stiff side-walled slick we run a higher pressure close to what we would run our drag radials. Now with a soft side-walled slick we would run a lowewr psi like 12-14 psi.

I would play with the tire pressures some and get a good set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets and you should get rid of all that wheel hop.

loosen up the front to full loose ..looks like you have about a an inch of travel ...

Jeff:

Being your rearend came with the LCA relocation brackets ALREADY BUILT IN, go with one of the two lower hole sets, move your front shocks to 1 or 2 from full soft.

Your tire pressure, launch RPM, and available traction will depend on where you set the rear shocks. Every car is a bit different there but with some track time you will find what the car wants.

You will also want to start keeping a log book on your passes with the settings noted as well as maybe even investing in a temp gun for to record track and tire temps.

A set of adjustable LCAs won't be a bad idea, but don't think you will see a huge gain just with them.

Feel free to call if you want good advice and no sales pitch.

Jeff:

Being your rearend came with the LCA relocation brackets ALREADY BUILT IN, go with one of the two lower hole sets, move your front shocks to 1 or 2 from full soft.

Your tire pressure, launch RPM, and available traction will depend on where you set the rear shocks. Every car is a bit different there but with some track time you will find what the car wants.


Yeah I was thinking about moving them to a different hole so I will give that a try. The rear has been nothing less then fantastic by the way, great product.

Also ill soften the front up all the way as well and see how she does with that. The coil overs I had to adjust pretty high up to set my ride height. I have some room to drop it though to help with the travel.

My hoosier drag radials like 14psi so wouldn't the QTP be able to run lower psi? I've never read up on them though.


The qtp's are dot drag radials. I was talking to some other guys at the track and they were all running anywhere from 12-16 psi I have some room to play with that. Also my rim size is a little small for these tires which isnt helping me.

As BMR said wheel hop is from one of two things. The wrong lca geometry or too loose a compression setting.

In your case not having the relocation brackets I'd bet it's the wrong geometry.

Also that looks like your at Cecil County which is one of the best slick tire tracks in the country. It is probably going to have a little more bite at the line than most tracks so that could also be compounding your wheel hop problem.

If you already have the relocation brackets welded to the axle from MWC then put them in the lowest hole to the ground. That should cure the problem. If you have more than 2 holes and have 3 holes which it sounds like put them in the middle first and then try the lowest hole.

If you already have the relocation brackets welded to the axle from MWC then put them in the lowest hole to the ground. That should cure the problem. If you have more than 2 holes and have 3 holes which it sounds like put them in the middle first and then try the lowest hole.

Tonights the first night im gonna be able to get under it and look but It has three holes on it. I am pretty sure mines in the middle hole so I will drop it down and we will see where we go from there

Is that a short arm MWC setup?

Where do you have the front located at? In my experience relocating the lowers will cause it to hit the tires even harder.

I'm very familiar with the MWC setup - mine started out where your at, and now it goes consistent low 1.5's on a mediocre track.

Yes it is a short arm and I will be able to check out tonight but most likely its somewhere in the middle. Wheres yours located?

I had to put mine in the bottom hole to hook.

Lowers are in the 2 hole down from the top. This got me as close to 2* down hill to the rear as I could.

Set your shocks at 50% Compression/Rebound - and tires @ 12psi hot.

I'd start with the 2 step @ 5000 and work your way up.

I had to put mine in the bottom hole to hook.

Lowers are in the 2 hole down from the top. This got me as close to 2* down hill to the rear as I could.


mwc can probably tell me if this is true or not but you probably just did the opposite by moving the tq arm down and the lca's up

mwc can probably tell me if this is true or not but you probably just did the opposite by moving the tq arm down and the lca's up

M6 cars are different then auto cars....

Moving the torque arm down, makes hit the tires slower, but it has more leverage - thus it stays transferred longer.

Moving the control arms up takes out the excessive anti-squat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fpQ45QRAvM&list=UUgPl5n0VjubnUfBu65BQE9Q&index=1&feature=plcp - <-works for me 1.51 60'. They had just sprayed the track before my pass so the car dead hooked, yanked the front and then bogged. This fall after I get a new clutch in it, I'm going to finish dialing in the shocks - should have a mid 1.4 in there somewhere.

Just trying to point you in the right direction.

huh interesting. When I get home from work ill post up how my car is setup now.

Your car looks bad ass btw what h/c you go with?

My torque arm is in the 2nd from the bottom along with my lca's. Im going to drop my lca's to the last hole n see how that helps me

huh interesting. When I get home from work ill post up how my car is setup now.

Your car looks bad ass btw what h/c you go with?

Thanks - it's a SI5 cam (231/237) and Patriot stage 2 LS6 heads

I can almost guarantee that moving the control arms down will make it hit the tires even harder (more anti-squat) and won't 60' better.

The 2nd hole on the torque arm worked great for me until I put heads/cam on the car, and I had to move it down.

Thanks - it's a SI5 cam (231/237) and Patriot stage 2 LS6 heads

I can almost guarantee that moving the control arms down will make it hit the tires even harder (more anti-squat) and won't 60' better.

The 2nd hole on the torque arm worked great for me until I put heads/cam on the car, and I had to move it down.

I have those same heads but with a baby 228r.

I am gonna try what mwc and bmr said with the lca's but if that doesnt work ill defiantly move em back up one and drop the torque arm. They are simple enough to change and it looks like thats whats working with your car which very similar to mine.

Well I finally got back to the track last night and moving the lca's down made it worse. Could only manage a 1.90 60' and I had the 2step way down (3400). The air wasnt great last night but not terrible.

I am going to move the lca's back up and drop the tq arm down like nocooler said

fronts were all the way soft and the rears were at 8. I think I am going to drop the front coilovers some too.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qse2NL-zimc&list=UUwCg_0RHQ3jCU0zQ7uMt9cA&index=1&feature=plcp

Video shows just what I expected.....

Yes it was exactly like you said. Do you think I should drop the front coil overs down some as well?

I wouldn't make to many changes at once.

Keep it simple, and you'll have it sorted out.

Ok well im going to move the lca's back up one and drop the tq arm. Hopefully ill be at the track next Wednesday as well with another update.

Before you change too much do your burnout in 2nd gear and pull it out of the waterbox while spinning. You might have stopped your burnout while still in the burnout box. Looks to me that you launched with wet tires.

I might be going tonight if the weather clears up and the humidity drops so I will give it shot.

Here is some interesting data for you ... I was in your position not long ago and am still dialing in. Check out some of these posts ... I just finished my 3rd test & tune last Friday ... 1.933 first test & tune and down to a 1.668 last Friday.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/1523239-gopro-vids-added-got-some-shakedown-runs-ss-w-sdpc-402-mid-7s-103-mph.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/1542867-mcr-sdr-track-day-vids-photos-those-following-my-mod-threads.html

A few tips ...

.... your 2-Step is waaay low. I started low too and am up to 4,500 and will increase next time out to 5,000.

... work on your burnout. Do a quick spin rolling through the water to get the tire wet all the way around, but not so much that you soak your fender wells (that water will drop back on the track or your tires at the line). Do your burnout in front of the water box from second gear, haze the tires and roll-out part way. DON'T roll out and let your tires hook ... this will tear up a stock T-56 ... push your clutch in before the tires hook.

... as others have said, make your changes one at a time and take notes.

Well I had the 2step up at like 5.5 before and then started dropping it. My main problem is wheel hop. I can feel it starting sometimes in the burnout box even.

I have a line lock in it to so maybe I'm not doing my burnouts right but I usually just sit in the water box smoke em then roll out a little. Before that that I would just hold the brake on my street tires and they hooked about as well as they could I think

Well I had the 2step up at like 5.5 before and then started dropping it. My main problem is wheel hop. I can feel it starting sometimes in the burnout box even.

I have a line lock in it to so maybe I'm not doing my burnouts right but I usually just sit in the water box smoke em then roll out a little. Before that that I would just hold the brake on my street tires and they hooked about as well as they could I think

Try the suggestions posted in your thread and eliminate the wheelhop first and foremost. I have no wheel hop issues, so I got lucky in my initial suspension setup.

You don't want to "power brake" during your burnouts ... you will heat up your brake rotors and affect your slow down at the end of the track not too mention it wears out your brakes. Stick to the line lock for your burn outs.

Yeah I know. Surprisingly when I changed my rear after roughly 100 track passes doing burnouts like that when I was pretty stock the brakes were still in great shape.

Make the suspension adjustments I suggested.....if not you'll tear something up from the wheel hop.

Set the 2 step to 4500-5000, tires at 12psi cold, and do a nice 2nd or 3rd gear burnout - depends on the rear gear ratio of course. I like 3rd - it get them nice and warm quick.

If it works - then it's on. You'll need to find out what tire pressure your combo likes (probably 12-14psi) and start moving the 2 step up.

Good luck and have fun man!

U doing any data logging during the runs??

Make the suspension adjustments I suggested.....if not you'll tear something up from the wheel hop.

Set the 2 step to 4500-5000, tires at 12psi cold, and do a nice 2nd or 3rd gear burnout - depends on the rear gear ratio of course. I like 3rd - it get them nice and warm quick.

If it works - then it's on. You'll need to find out what tire pressure your combo likes (probably 12-14psi) and start moving the 2 step up.

Good luck and have fun man!

Yeah I am deffinitly trying what you suggested next time out. Didnt get a chance to go Wednesday next time ill run I will update

U doing any data logging during the runs??

We did last time I went because my friend has hpt. What Should I check in the logs?

As other's have said two step needs to be higher.

I think your problem is you are not hitting the tire hard enough to keep it hooked and thus the wheel hop you are getting.

Set that bitch to 6000rpm see what happens. Don't just pop the clutch either give it a quick release and then try to hold the last bit of release point out a bit so it doesn't bog or catch to hard.

Make the suspension adjustments I suggested.....if not you'll tear something up from the wheel hop.

Set the 2 step to 4500-5000, tires at 12psi cold, and do a nice 2nd or 3rd gear burnout - depends on the rear gear ratio of course. I like 3rd - it get them nice and warm quick.

If it works - then it's on. You'll need to find out what tire pressure your combo likes (probably 12-14psi) and start moving the 2 step up.

Good luck and have fun man!

Smart man here giving good advise. Only change on thing at a time. also oneother thing i dont get is i always started fronts full stiff so on my car 10 clicks. then worked my way down. seems my car likes 3 to 4 from soft. you want the car to slowy hold the hit the m6 brings off the line and then carry the hit and weight as it come's off the line. if your live center and shocks are off it will hook bog fall on it face and then go. or it will just blow the tires off. M6 cars seem to like a stiff rear shock with a very slow rebond. if the shocks are S/A set them to 5 or 6. but try to play with tq arm first and see where it likes it. one step at a time one change at a time.

Well I wish I could be back with a better update but unfortunately not. I believe a spring in the clutch blew out (second monster stage 3 in 2 years)

Only pass I had the tires were at 14 psi (dropped the pressure after I got to the track with a 30 min cool down)

Tq arm on lower hole lcas on second from the bottom. 2step at 5000. The car rolled on the line hitting the 2step (first sign clutch was going)

Only cut a 2.0 60' but I feel I let the clutch out to fast and rolling probably didnt help but I didnt realize it until I saw the video. I will post a vid later but went to shift to third heard a pop and it locked me out

Yeah I am definitely going with something different this time around. First clutch had 900 miles on it no track passes before it broke. This one has probably 1500 and 15 track passes.

That sucks....

I've had nothing but good luck with Monster. My level 3 just died, it was wore out. It's been in the car 4 years and been beat hard. I've got a Monster 11" coming to replace it.

Yeah who knows maybe im just unlucky with em lol.

The changes though seem to have reduced the wheel hop quite a bit though. I left my camera in my car so whenever I get back to it later tonight I will post the vid.

Hey guys just to update everyone. It turns out that my input shaft was bent. Most likely damage from shipping. Got everything fixed and went to the track last night.

It was finally hooking up! I got rid of my lightweight flywheel for a steel one and I think that made all of the difference! I am still bogging down off the line though even at 6100. I need a retune. My a/f is way off. I fixed some vacuum leaks and had my 102 ported. When I'm leaving at the power my car should be making ill be in business!

First pass 2step @ 5100 rpm 1.86 60'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7Z-y1LYmcE&list=UUwCg_0RHQ3jCU0zQ7uMt9cA&index=1&feature=plcp

Second pass I didnt get a vid. 2step @ 5600 1.78 60'

Third pass 2step @ 6100 1.72 60'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTA1Tmh2ZR4&feature=youtube_gdata_player