Cadillac CTS-V - Thoughts?

We'll my heads have to come off due to my lifters going bad. It isnt very cheap to get this done, so I kinda wana see if there is anything else I can do while the heads are off.

This is what I have thought of so far

ARP studs for headers
Fix exhaust leak on headers
Maybe port my heads?

Anyone else have any thoughts or ideas on what I should do

If u have the money, get some stage 2.5 ported 243's. Sell ur stock heads for some money back.

I put a set of Texas Speed heads on mine.

Morel lifters.

Comp Cams #1500 adjustable roller rockers.

Just stand back and throw money at it.

Forge the interals...

Cole... When r u gonna do a 4L80E swap on that truck motor u have?

Cole... When r u gonna do a 4L80E swap on that truck motor u have?

Soon...and then I am going to throw a tow package on there.

We'll my heads have to come off due to my lifters going bad. It isnt very cheap to get this done, so I kinda wana see if there is anything else I can do while the heads are off.

This is what I have thought of so far

ARP studs for headers
Fix exhaust leak on headers
Maybe port my heads?

Anyone else have any thoughts or ideas on what I should do

Good time to pull the motor, no?

Or just get some ls9 head gaskets...

Good cause when it breaks down, u can hook the tow strap to that and save ur bumper cover ;) lol

what are the LS9 head gaskets going to do?

LS9 gaskets are just better and hold more power from what I've been told.

7 layers vs 3 layers, it's like 7 times the power I think.... :burn:

Hehe, but seriously, yes ls9 gaskets, not really an upgrade per se but may as well whilst you're at it.

Hmm, what lifters are you getting?

Get the ARP head bolts, much better than the OE TTY bolts for almost the same price. No need to step up to studs unless you are nearing 20 lbs of boost. Get the LS9 gaskets since you are pulling the heads anyhow...no real benefit unless you're over 10 lbs but it gives you added security.

The stock LS7 lifters are fine ($120 for the set), no need to spend $$$$ on valve train parts that are not really needed. Depending on your cam, you might want to get the trunion upgrade if over .600".

I would really reconsider the header studs, they are a pain in the ass to install and even more so to get the headers off and over the studs when you have to take them back off. The exhaust bolts are only torqued to 18 lbs, as long as you get the new bolts that don't rust you're fine.

If you have the coin, send the heads out to AI or TEA.

If you have the coin, send the heads out to AI or TEA.

Since he is in SoCal...he could go through WCCH in LA also...in stead of North Carolina for AI or Ohio for TEA.

anyone have a link to where I can get the head bolts from? This is the third time weve had to pull the headers... I think : X. So I might as well make it easier the next 4 times

http://www.amazon.com/ARP-4341301-Header-Stud-Chevy/dp/B003XUIMOK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334624944&sr=1-1

I used these same exact ones on my headers.
And I used these gaskets:
http://www.amazon.com/Percy-66032-Seal-4-Good-Flange-Gasket/dp/B000NCWC1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334625041&sr=1-1

anyone have a link to where I can get the head bolts from? This is the third time weve had to pull the headers... I think : X. So I might as well make it easier the next 4 times

Just about everyone has them (Jeggs, Summit, Texas Speed, etc)....they usually fetch $100 - $130 range depending where you get them from. The ARP studs are usually in the $250 - $275 range and the stockers are around $80 (have to get them individually).

Make sure that you blow all of the coolant out of the bolt holes!!!! You will crack the block if there is coolant (or anything else) in there since they are blind holes. Its a good idea to take an old head bolt and grind a tapered "wedge" into the bolt (starting at the bottom) and use this to clean all of the threads, all the way to the bottom.

Put a very light coat of lube on the threads of the bolts and plenty on the washers (make sure the chamfer is in the correct direction) to reduce friction and get accurate torque numbers.

After buying replacement 12 point after another, I got these for my ARP studs.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=25+M8-1.25+Exhaust+Lock+Nut+Copper+Plated+Steel+12mmHex+&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Atre you really gonna benefit that much from porting the heads with the 112? I can see it being safer cause itd drop the boost some but since you already have a cam I just dont see the 112 being able to keep up enough air flow to add a ton of power.

Drop the boost? Or compression?

And that was my worry too. That thing is maxed out. The only real benefit would be something like meth. But I also don't know if something goes along with doing lifters.

Drop the boost? Or compression?

And that was my worry too. That thing is maxed out. The only real benefit would be something like meth. But I also don't know if something goes along with doing lifters.

You would drop boost because the heads would flow more air. Boost shows restriction. So youll make the same or a tad mor epower on less boost because the motor is more efficient. You could swap pulleys to get more boost but then you add more heat etc.

Water/meth would be great to prevent heat soak.

Yeah, that is on the top of my list because of summer coming around shortly

You would drop boost because the heads would flow more air. Boost shows restriction. So youll make the same or a tad mor epower on less boost because the motor is more efficient. You could swap pulleys to get more boost but then you add more heat etc.

Water/meth would be great to prevent heat soak.

I saw a drop in power when going to a lower comp, larger displacement engine. The maggie just runs out of huff and puff.

You can add a bunch more timing on a lower CR motor relatively safely without knock risks so there's definitely efficiencies to be had.

I just dropped my CR to 9.8/1 with an over driven 112 and zr1 cam. Goes on the dyno Friday. She's running strong

:corn:

I saw a drop in power when going to a lower comp, larger displacement engine. The maggie just runs out of huff and puff.

You can add a bunch more timing on a lower CR motor relatively safely without knock risks so there's definitely efficiencies to be had.

Yea I never mentioned dropping compression i meant porting the heads. And losing power on a larger displacement lower compression motor with the 112 makes sense cause the blower is tiny.