Well, intake gasket time Questions
04-17-2012, 07:01 PM
#1
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Well, intake gasket time Questions Well unfortunately my intake gasket is leaking in the back, grrrrr
only 18k, so my questions are, do it yourself?? bad job? easy? time consuming? speaking of time how long to do?? and lastly my garage told me 400 + gaskets and 2 new blankets top help protect car as it is show condition, seem high? or low? also I'm gonna go threw the forums now but is there any pics of someone doing this job?
thanks in advance
only 18k, so my questions are, do it yourself?? bad job? easy? time consuming? speaking of time how long to do?? and lastly my garage told me 400 + gaskets and 2 new blankets top help protect car as it is show condition, seem high? or low? also I'm gonna go threw the forums now but is there any pics of someone doing this job?thanks in advance
04-17-2012, 08:52 PM
#3
DIY it not that bad. You could do it on a Saturday.
As for $400 + parts sounds about right.
We charge $80/hr at the shop. Book Time says 4-5hrs ballpark
Prob. really knock it out in 1/2 that.
You have to remember Shops are there to make $.
As for $400 + parts sounds about right.
We charge $80/hr at the shop. Book Time says 4-5hrs ballpark
Prob. really knock it out in 1/2 that.
You have to remember Shops are there to make $.
04-17-2012, 10:05 PM
#4
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It might take Somone who's done it 2hours tops , most important part is the correct amount of ultra black/grey on the china walls, laying the intake straight down as opposed to moving it around on the rtv, letting it fully cure before starting it again then retorqueing it after a few days of driving.
04-17-2012, 10:39 PM
#6
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A trick my dad taught me on replacing head gaskets. Remove one head bolt and go to your local hardware store and buy 4 bolts the same size and thread but only longer (1-2 inches). Then remove the head of the bolt and grind it smooth. while the heads are off the block screw in the bolts so you can place the head gaskets on and then you can slide the heads on. What this dose is aline the heads up with the bolt holes and if you use RTB you wont be smearing it all over and evenly place it on. remove the longer bolts and replace with new ones. Long story short your makeing head studs that can be easly used and/or just use head studs.
04-17-2012, 10:50 PM
#7
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A trick my dad taught me on replacing head gaskets. Remove one head bolt and go to your local hardware store and buy 4 bolts the same size and thread but only longer (1-2 inches). Then remove the head of the bolt and grind it smooth. while the heads are off the block screw in the bolts so you can place the head gaskets on and then you can slide the heads on. What this dose is aline the heads up with the bolt holes and if you use RTB you wont be smearing it all over and evenly place it on. remove the longer bolts and replace with new ones. Long story short your makeing head studs that can be easly used and/or just use head studs.
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04-17-2012, 11:04 PM
#8
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When I did mine I took a center punch and hammer and put a few dimples in the edges where the rtv goes. Both on the block and the intake. Been over 10 yrs now and still not a drop out of it.
04-17-2012, 11:22 PM
#9
$400 from a shop is what I'd expect too.
It's not a bad job at all. It's also probably the single most documented fix for LT1s on the internet. If possible I'd try to tackle it yourself.
Dimpling the china walls seems to gain some popularity but whether or not it seals any better is yet to be seen. Mine has no dimples and has been holding just fine.
It's not a bad job at all. It's also probably the single most documented fix for LT1s on the internet. If possible I'd try to tackle it yourself.
Dimpling the china walls seems to gain some popularity but whether or not it seals any better is yet to be seen. Mine has no dimples and has been holding just fine.
04-18-2012, 09:44 AM
#12
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This might be a stupid question, but why are they called China Walls? Is that the technical term, or something someone just started throwing around? Have they always been called China Walls, and on all engines?
04-18-2012, 04:32 PM
#16
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tighten in two passes in sequence. i think shoebox has a diagram of the proper torque sequence.
www.shbox.com
04-18-2012, 08:30 PM
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^What worked best for me was to first snug the bolts in proper sequence, around 10 ft lbs. Then give the rtv about an hour to start curing, then go back and torque to 35 ft lbs, in the same proper sequence.
I did that and used ultra copper (orange colored) rtv and have had good luck with it.
I did that and used ultra copper (orange colored) rtv and have had good luck with it.
04-18-2012, 10:55 PM
#18
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I have zero knowledge in mechanics and I was able to fix a blown headgasket and put everything back together and also fix my leaky intake in the run. dont pay $400 do it yourself