LT1-LT4 Modifications - Is a tune needed when doing a stall converter??

I talked my buddy into doing a YankSS3600 stall on his 94 Z28 to compliment his 3:73's and I was wondering whether you need to get a tune or anything after we install it?

Thanks

Yea u will. If not u will hit stall wall and send the tranny into limp mode. Ask me how i know lol

^^^What he said.

Yup and possibly mess up your trans and destroy it.

Okay thanks guys!

whats this stall wall ? i have a 3600 converter and i just upgraded to a 4200 would i need a retune it seems from 2nd to 3rd it stays there for a brief second then shifts and it seems slower then it should be

Does it need to be tuned immediately? Or is this only if you plan on running it WOT? Reason I'm asking is because I'll be installing one here shortly and will probably be driving it to meet the tuner afterwards, possibly for a few days.

The Delta is usually 5-8 seconds. We never could get it hit go on it while street driving.

I always have to thank Ed Wright for digging into the code and finding the real fix for us ;)

If your just driving around, not you will not need a tune. However, for performance purposes it will. With the gears it will shift early then it should, this is a simple fix. The converter is were your going to have to work. There are several wright-up's on how to fix this that work pretty well.

whats this stall wall ? i have a 3600 converter and i just upgraded to a 4200 would i need a retune it seems from 2nd to 3rd it stays there for a brief second then shifts and it seems slower then it should be

Only applies to OBD1 LT1 computers. Shows up after a burn out, when you launch it, the PCM will have defaulted to 3rd gear ("limp home " mode) until the car is shut off for about ten seconds and restarted. You could get past it by rolling out of the water, shutting it off, then restarting.

With OBD1(I run an OBD1 swap) I had an issue once when I let out of the throttle too much rolling out of the water and the wheelspeed went from like 90 to 1 almost instantly. Never had a problem when I kept the wheelspeed up till on dry and let it come down slower.

Crap! Should have proof read! OBD1. Sorry.
If your converter is a 4000 or higher, it usually doesn't matter how you do it.
Most people do stay on it until on dry pavement.

I had the "high stall TC" issue with OBD1: VSS error from tailshaft deflection on launch due to the higher torque going through the tranny (at least that's the story I was told). Anyway, it caused a 1-2 no shift. The fix is to turn off the VSS error code.
When I went back to OBD2, I also deselected the VSS error options and have had no problem even with the hard hitting 8" TC.

Edit 1/5/13: The fix is NOT the VSS error code. Moving the WOT mph threshold for the 1-2 shift down to 1 mph and letting it shift on the rpm trigger was the fix for mine.

Never seen a OBD2 PCM do it. Also never saw shutting off codes fix one. That was the first thing everybody tried. Hardest converters to cure (slip the most) were Yank and Fuddle.

I think we're talking about 2 different things here.
Mine was the 1-2 no-shift as soon as I went from a Yank 3000 to an Edge 3400 behind the stock engine.
I see above you were talking about default to 3rd gear. Mine never did that.

I think we're talking about 2 different things here.
Mine was the 1-2 no-shift as soon as I went from a Yank 3000 to an Edge 3400 behind the stock engine.
I see above you were talking about default to 3rd gear. Mine never did that.

Usually would not shit from first to second and when you lift it would go straight to third.

Our first fix was to use a OBD-II PCM.

Usually would not shit from first to second and when you lift it would go straight to third.
.. Exactly. My very first launch with the harder hitting TC made it happen, and we fixed it right there by disabling the VSS code. I try to never let the tires grab by lifting suddenly in the burnout, so never saw it there.
I think I shut it off and restarted it after I cruised down the track on that pass, so I never even noticed if it defaulted to 3rd gear only.

You would have noticed it at the ET shack when all you had going forward was 3 gear.

Does the stall wall even apply to baby stalls. I have a 94 cammed bolt on car with 2600 blew my trans then got stall and trans re built. Within 2000 miles I burned my 3 to 4 clutch. Is this because it started in third? New Kevlar clutches definetly getting tuned this time. Just curious if that's why??

Does the stall wall even apply to baby stalls. I have a 94 cammed bolt on car with 2600 blew my trans then got stall and trans re built. Within 2000 miles I burned my 3 to 4 clutch. Is this because it started in third? New Kevlar clutches definetly getting tuned this time. Just curious if that's why??

Usually hits cars with anything above a 2800 from what Ive seen. I don't think what your describing is what were talking about.

It won't do it with a mild stall.
Mine didn't do it with the Yank 3000, which was a soft hitting TC.
The Edge 3400 hit more like your typical 3600; that's when it reared its head.

And I should have paid more attention to what EW said earlier.
The OBD1 fix for mine was NOT disabling the VSS error (too many years and bad memory!). Moving the 1-2 WOT shift threshold down to 1 mph and letting it shift on the rpm trigger was the fix. Edited post above.

That will fix a fairly low stall like that, takes a code hack to make it shift with a 4000 + converter.

Does the stall wall even apply to baby stalls. I have a 94 cammed bolt on car with 2600 blew my trans then got stall and trans re built. Within 2000 miles I burned my 3 to 4 clutch. Is this because it started in third? New Kevlar clutches definetly getting tuned this time. Just curious if that's why??


Sounds like a shitty tranny builder is your problem. I don't think anyone actually any good uses kevlar in this tranny. Even without a tune for a stall wall the 3-clutches would not be what is hurt unless you put it into stall wall constantly and drive around in only third.

There are a lot of shops who will take your money to "rebuilt" a 4L60E and relatively few who actually do a good job.

That will fix a fairly low stall like that, takes a code hack to make it shift with a 4000 + converter.
Well.....it works just fine for my 8" ATI, even flashing to 5600 with the little shot of juice.

Well.....it works just fine for my 8" ATI, even flashing to 5600 with the little shot of juice.

Works for my 9.5" 4000 also..

Guess your lucky. That won't fix a lot of them. My 8" ATI needed the code hack.
And, after that setting the up shift MPH to 1 MPH was not needed.

My 3L80MTB Shift every time I push the shifter even coming out of the hole at 5,600-5,800 :P