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Idling tsp's 231/237 cam on stock tune

Old 03-26-2004, 04:06 PM
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Default Idling tsp's 231/237 cam on stock tune

has anyone gotten it to idle enough to drive the 50 miles to my nearest shop without using edit? Im going to be installing my heads/cam this coming weekend and would like to know...some have said just disconnect a vacuum source or possibly disconnect the maf but nobody has concretly said "ok this will work" so anyone? Or am i gonna have to be the first to try this lol. Thanks

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Old 03-26-2004, 04:17 PM
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No need to let it idle, install, let it run long enough to get to full temp. Shut off. Check all fluids, I usually change oil at this point. Let cool off all the way if using new springs, that gives them a full heat cycle. Then start back up in the morning, foot brake it if needed and drive it to the shop. If you dont touch the gas at all after install, it should idle fine, but once you touch the gas pedal, well, its going to want that tune! Mine didnt buck to much, but I was tuned for a TR224 cam already, so that helped. If you haevnt done it already, drill the TB blade a little might help also.
Old 03-26-2004, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
No need to let it idle, install, let it run long enough to get to full temp. Shut off. Check all fluids, I usually change oil at this point. Let cool off all the way if using new springs, that gives them a full heat cycle. Then start back up in the morning, foot brake it if needed and drive it to the shop. If you dont touch the gas at all after install, it should idle fine, but once you touch the gas pedal, well, its going to want that tune! Mine didnt buck to much, but I was tuned for a TR224 cam already, so that helped. If you haevnt done it already, drill the TB blade a little might help also.
i know the whole procedure on heat cycling and such cat3 im just wondering if there are any tricks i can use to drive 50 miles to the shop without having to drill the blade?

lata
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Old 03-26-2004, 05:20 PM
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I drove around a bit on stock tune.. ran like crap, but it worked.. ofc this is on a vette, but should also be ok on an f-bod..
Old 03-26-2004, 05:21 PM
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Where can I get a write-up on the way that I should break in my new springs? I mean with the heat cycles and changing the oil and all that?
Old 03-26-2004, 05:24 PM
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really you just need to heat cycle them a couple of times...its real easy...bring it up to temp then cool it down to ambiant thats one heat cycle...and if you dont know how to change your own oil man your outta luck.
Old 03-26-2004, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 98blackSS
I drove around a bit on stock tune.. ran like crap, but it worked.. ofc this is on a vette, but should also be ok on an f-bod..
thats also a manual car ive got a 2.73 geared pig of an A4 lol
Old 03-26-2004, 09:13 PM
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don't drill the TB hole very much; it's hard to undrill it once you tune it
You can turn the idle set screw by 1 - 2 full turns. This will also let more air in and is easily reversed.
Old 03-26-2004, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
don't drill the TB hole very much; it's hard to undrill it once you tune it
You can turn the idle set screw by 1 - 2 full turns. This will also let more air in and is easily reversed.
where is the idle screw though anyone with a pic or a link? and ive used pop rivets in the past to plug holes in the tb they work pretty well IMO
Old 03-26-2004, 09:16 PM
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NM about the set screw just did a little search on yahoo and found a pic thanks
Old 03-27-2004, 01:50 PM
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I have it in my car and it started on the 2nd. turn of the key and once it started it never died. You should be fine. I drove a while on the stock tune. I have an M6 though.


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