Engine building tips or guidleines???
03-26-2004, 04:57 PM
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Engine building tips or guidleines??? Ok, the more I think about it, the more I want to build my own "next project engine". I have done lots of SBC 355 etc. but the LSx with the "this sensor and that sensor" gets a little intimidating.
What is the whole dimension for rods, like 6.125, .997 pin etc...
What c.i. does using the 6.125" rod and stock crank yield?
Obviously the pistons need to be matched for the rod. Using a low comp design for turbo app whats a good recommended gap, and ring set?
Or how about a higher comp for a mild street duty with an ***-load (400progressive shot) of Nitrous gap and ring set?
Any builders have a preference for bearings, clevite H series, or what?
What all differences could I expect to run into doing an LS1?
My thoughts:
Obviously pay the hell attention on tear down!
Have crank checked, and resized, rotating assembly balanced. Block mag'd, honed with torque plate to a 3.905 bore. Swap cam bearings (again any recommendations,seems the factory ones wear uneven and quick!). What about the crank sensor, wheres it located and should it be swapped? Or Cam sensor?
Basically, any useful info for clearances and stuff is appreciated. I need to figure out if its for nitrous or FI I know.
TIA
Charlie
What is the whole dimension for rods, like 6.125, .997 pin etc...
What c.i. does using the 6.125" rod and stock crank yield?
Obviously the pistons need to be matched for the rod. Using a low comp design for turbo app whats a good recommended gap, and ring set?
Or how about a higher comp for a mild street duty with an ***-load (400progressive shot) of Nitrous gap and ring set?
Any builders have a preference for bearings, clevite H series, or what?
What all differences could I expect to run into doing an LS1?
My thoughts:
Obviously pay the hell attention on tear down!
Have crank checked, and resized, rotating assembly balanced. Block mag'd, honed with torque plate to a 3.905 bore. Swap cam bearings (again any recommendations,seems the factory ones wear uneven and quick!). What about the crank sensor, wheres it located and should it be swapped? Or Cam sensor?
Basically, any useful info for clearances and stuff is appreciated. I need to figure out if its for nitrous or FI I know.
TIA
Charlie
03-26-2004, 05:12 PM
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Ok the 3.905 bore, 3.622 crank and 6.125 rod is 348 right?
If so, whats the difference, side load or what, to using a 6.125 rod, comapred to 6.1?
If so, whats the difference, side load or what, to using a 6.125 rod, comapred to 6.1?
03-26-2004, 06:18 PM
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The SBC rods do sideload the pins and pistons so it depends on what you want to achieve. The sensor thing is easy and all the connections are different. Each one has a different plug.
For ring gaps, contact your piston and ring supplier. The all may have a different spec depending on the rings you use.
For bearings, I used all Federal Mogel as I dont like to mismatch bearings. Get the FM cam bearings, stockers are $$$$$$.
For blockwork, I would do the bore, hone with plate, new cam bearings, get main studs and have mains line honed.
The crank sensor is above the starter. If the sensors work, dont change them. Its not too bad once you dig into it. If you need any help, just ask. Ive dont it a couple times
For ring gaps, contact your piston and ring supplier. The all may have a different spec depending on the rings you use.
For bearings, I used all Federal Mogel as I dont like to mismatch bearings. Get the FM cam bearings, stockers are $$$$$$.
For blockwork, I would do the bore, hone with plate, new cam bearings, get main studs and have mains line honed.
The crank sensor is above the starter. If the sensors work, dont change them. Its not too bad once you dig into it. If you need any help, just ask. Ive dont it a couple times
03-26-2004, 06:42 PM
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For blockwork, I would do the bore, hone with plate, new cam bearings, get main studs and have mains line honed.
03-26-2004, 06:48 PM
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Yeah, forgot to mention deck. Thanks. I assume pull the sensors before sending to the acid bath and machine shop? They do acid bath aluminum blocks or no? I appreciate the help, like I said, SBC no problems, but this alum LS1 still strikes caution as I attempt new things.
03-26-2004, 07:02 PM
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There is really no difference between building a SBC and a LS1. Just use the same considerations and you'll be fine. Long rods, long stroke, little more narrow bore, high stock cylinder pressures, very good cylinder heads. They like compression.
Cams--just keep in mind the characteristics of the intake and exhaust ports as well as the manifold.
Cams--just keep in mind the characteristics of the intake and exhaust ports as well as the manifold.
