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What Oil for a forged 418 N/A?

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Old 04-20-2012, 10:11 PM
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Default What Oil for a forged 418 N/A?

just what the title says I am running 5w-30 and oil pressure is good, actually pretty damn high at startup cold but around 40 at idle, just wondering if that wight of oil is good for a performance built engine like this or should I go heavier?
Old 04-20-2012, 10:23 PM
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Depends on the builder and what the bearing clearances are. I run Royal Purple 5w30 in my LS7 right now and seems fine. 40 at idle is plenty. GM manual states somewhere around 20 is sufficient lol, but screw that. 40 sounds good to me, and as long as under load it rises, your good to go!
Old 04-20-2012, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 82cetuner
just what the title says I am running 5w-30 and oil pressure is good, actually pretty damn high at startup cold but around 40 at idle, just wondering if that wight of oil is good for a performance built engine like this or should I go heavier?
Unless he built you a purpose built road race engine or something like that....its no different than a stock engine.

My fully forged 427ci has LOVED 20w50 for all of its 165,000+ miles and its still kicking ***.........silent, good oil pressure and runs like a top.

Castrol GTX 20w50 non-synthetic.

Super duper special synthetics will do absolutely NOTHING better for your engine. If anything it will do LESS for it....because I know of NOBODY who's gotten close to 100,000 with a fully forged stroker engine at 11.3:1 cr.....they all use synthetic and they rebuild their engines at 40-60K. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 and you'll hopefully get 165,000 out of yours, no reason you shouldn't.............

.
Old 04-21-2012, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 82cetuner
just what the title says I am running 5w-30 and oil pressure is good, actually pretty damn high at startup cold but around 40 at idle, just wondering if that wight of oil is good for a performance built engine like this or should I go heavier?
I would like to recommend two oils:

1) Red Line 0W40

2) Mobil 1 0W40

and then add some ZDDP Plus because the EPA is forcing the oil companies to significantly reduce the Zinc and Phosporous (anti-wear additives) in today's oils.

Both of these oils will give your engine better protection at start up and once it has warmed up.

Old 04-21-2012, 07:22 AM
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AES built mine and according to the builder and my bearing clearances ( because it DOES matter) they recommend I use Valvoline vr1 due to the properties in it that stroker and hp engines need. Just my .2
Old 04-21-2012, 09:28 AM
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ok this engine was built by texas speeda nd seems to have fine oil pressur using mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic
Old 04-21-2012, 09:52 AM
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I've always heard that the Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 are on the lighter side of the chart for the weight and it was a better idea to run 40 weight in Mobil 1 oils.
Old 04-21-2012, 11:07 AM
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I'd get rid of that crappy oil bud, go with a 10-30 Quaker state or Pennzoil instead. But first I'd call tsp and ask them.
Old 04-21-2012, 03:13 PM
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Default Oil weight

Hi I have a N/A 418 LS3 also My builder recommended 10-30W
Old 04-21-2012, 04:16 PM
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Joe gibbs LS30

Syn with ZDDP 5-30 weight

Tim
Old 04-22-2012, 12:41 AM
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Lot of mis-information being thrown around.

Yes, standard is for less zinc/phosphorous, looking at oils dating back to 1968 it hasn't changed much, HDEO oils went from 1500ppm to 1250ppm phosphorous. So the ZDDP isn't completely missing just lowered.

The clearance is larger if you're using an H bearing, which is what most use. 2618 pistons use around double the clearance of factory pistons. Notwithstanding you don't want an oil for factory clearances, need thicker viscosity oil.

Nothing wrong with synthetic oils, the definition for synthetic varies between companies. Many of them are just a good dino oil with synthetic written on it.

Valvoline VR1 is the easy choice 20W-50, it doesn't want to pump in freezing temps so I would use 5W-40 Rotella T6 or M1 0W-40, during winter.

Mobil1 Racing 0W-50 or Amsoil Dominator are about the best oils there is based on the additives, lots of ZDDP lots of anti foaming additives for high rpm. Cost about double VR1's price.

It doesn't get mentioned much but I would consider using SAE 40 oils in stroker LS engine, straight weight oils will have less additives and more oil. Just cruising around to car meets etc. SAE 40 or 15W-40 Rotella would be fine and cost lot less then "racing" oils.

Ultimately it comes down to what produces the best used oil analysis, otherwise its just speculation.

Last edited by AES Racing; 04-22-2012 at 12:48 AM.
Old 04-22-2012, 05:15 AM
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I plan on using M1 0-40 in my 383 NA engine when its completed. This oil is also the factory fill on the 6.1 hemi. Here are the results of an oil analysis after 5k commuting miles on the 6.1 hemi through the brutal Houston summer. Basically new condition oil.




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