General LSX Automobile Discussion - Installed 222/226 cam and ls6 intake ls6 did nothing for me

I installed a cam headers and ls6 intake I did the ls6 intake after the ls1 cause I was missing parts I did the test the same day on the dyno and the gains was zero gains as per my tuner anyway. I have to say that when changing intakes and injectors you have to retune so maybe its in the tune. For me the upgrade didn';t do much but maybe I have to re look at the tuner or tuning ....


I just wondered where guys would see gains from 1 intake to the next cause dyno testing showed 358.9 rwhp and 358.8 so really exsactly the same rwhp a gain of 50rwhp with cam and header upgrade Kook headers y pipe and 3" exhaust I am very happy with the gains now my problem is traction anywhere from 25mph and down it is just crazy I love the upgrade best one yet :-)

are you sure you had an ls1 intake to begin with?

Yea what he ^ said, or now. What are the part #'S of both?

His profile says he has a 2000 T/A, so looks like he started with an LS6 intake.

01-02 had the ls6 intake, not 00.

01-02 had the ls6 intake, not 00.

Did your LS1 intake have an EGR pipe going to the top?

He could have an ls6 intake with an egr tube. My buddy had one like that and bought an ls6 only to find out he already had one.

He could have an ls6 intake with an egr tube. My buddy had one like that and bought an ls6 only to find out he already had one.

True but most ls6 intakes dont have the tube, so if he had one & his new one doesnt he most likely didnt have an ls6. Like most people that went from an ls1 to an ls6 it made a noticeable difference.

I installed a cam headers and ls6 intake I did the ls6 intake after the ls1 cause I was missing parts I did the test the same day on the dyno and the gains were exactly nothing so all you people that recommend the ls6 upgrade from an LS1 intake in my case it was a waste of money gaskets etc I also went with the 28.8lbs injectors ....


I wonder where you guys would see gains from 1 intake to the next cause dyno testing showed 358.9 rwhp and 358.8 so really exsactly the same rwhp a gain of 50rwhp with cam and header upgrade Kook headers y pipe and 3" exhaust

Either A) You had a ls6 already and wasted money. Or.. B) You were sold a ls1 intake and wasted money. Either way, you wasted money somewhere lol. A ls6 intake WILL give you gains, so something is wrong somewhere.

is your tune ok?

a ls6 intake has a flat bottom.do you have the intake you took off the car ?do a leak down or compression check on this engine.most ls1 with ls6 intakes and the baby EPS cam make 385+hp.

Early on, I did a simple bolt on test on a dyno and showed I went from 298HP to 315 hp from the swap alone.

I also added my own EGR tube to the LS6 intake with a ligenfelter part which makes it look like it was stock and meant to have an EGR.

-Was this comparison done correctly? Was it tuned for the cam then the intakes swapped? Was it tuned after the swap then dynoed? You can't just say it doesn't work with no real scientific method to fall back on to validate the testing. There's plenty of real world evidence indicating the volume difference makes a significant impact at all rpm ranges.

the gains were exactly nothing so all you people that recommend the ls6 upgrade from an LS1 intake in my case it was a waste of money gaskets etc I also went with the 28.8lbs injectors ....


did you get a tune the first time the car was on the dyno? and did you swap the injectors on at the same time along with the intake, after the tune?

Literally hundreds of people have documented their gains from this swap at the track or on the dyno, and I'm one of them. So I'm with everybody here in saying there has to be a problem somewhere.

Did you change the IFR tables to the 28.8 specs? If not, that's a part of your issue.

I agree with the others, there is either a tuning issue and/or internal engine issue holding back power, or you didn't get an LS6 intake.

C5s with LS1 intakes didn't have EGR. So just because the intake is EGR-less doesn't guaranty that it's an LS6.

Sorry guys! I opened up a can of worms here loll Nope My motor is fine 42000miles. Myself and my buddy did the exact same upgrade I went with a Yank 3200 he went with a TCI 3000 and we both got 358 and 359rwhp he stayed with his ls1 intake I went with the LS6 with the same 222/226 cam I'm obviously wrong here but my buddy had 308 rwhp and I had 313 before the build but that was dynoed on different days so....He went with a Flowmaster exhaust 3 inch to dual 3inch I went with a Magnaflow 3 inch in to dual 2.5" out both no cats 3" all the way with y pipe!!

I'm absolutely sure I had an ls1 with a v sha[e type bottom and egr and I installed a flat bottom type intake Also checked the #'s to make sure and yes my tuner did switch to 28.8lbs injectors but I did have a check engine that came on about 30mon after I left the dyno and it was a bad o2 sensor so I replaced it and now your making me think that I should go back and double check my tune.

I.m thinking the TCI stall might be more efficient than the Yank here as well anyway I obviously have to investigate further Thanks for the feedback guys

is your tune ok?

It should be but good question he did have to re tune after the switch maybe that is it

a ls6 intake has a flat bottom.do you have the intake you took off the car ?do a leak down or compression check on this engine.most ls1 with ls6 intakes and the baby EPS cam make 385+hp.

We did 2 cars at the same time same cam with ls6 intake on 1 and ls1 on the other and 1rwhp difference between the 2 cars same #'s

Early on, I did a simple bolt on test on a dyno and showed I went from 298HP to 315 hp from the swap alone.

I also added my own EGR tube to the LS6 intake with a ligenfelter part which makes it look like it was stock and meant to have an EGR.

-Was this comparison done correctly? Was it tuned for the cam then the intakes swapped? Was it tuned after the swap then dynoed? You can't just say it doesn't work with no real scientific method to fall back on to validate the testing. There's plenty of real world evidence indicating the volume difference makes a significant impact at all rpm ranges.

I took my tuners word on it I was there for the 1st tune in the morning then he switched to the ls6 and 28.8lbs injectors called me said the car was ready and told me he couldn't get any more power out of it but now it sounds like its in the tune I will get it re check Thanks a lot guys good thing you guys are there that way we can check that stuff out

I agree with the others, there is either a tuning issue and/or internal engine issue holding back power, or you didn't get an LS6 intake.

C5s with LS1 intakes didn't have EGR. So just because the intake is EGR-less doesn't guaranty that it's an LS6.

It is an ls6 intake for sure I had the #'s ran to make sure it was and the flat bottom no egr gives it away. We did 2 cars same power 1 with ls6 intake and 1 with ls1 as well. I was hoping for 375rwhp but a 50rwhp gain from a cam and headers is pretty good I think my other buddy has a 224/228 Lunati cam with ls6 heads ported and he does 366rwhp so maybe in our area the #'s are lower or our tuner is not great. My car did dyno at 313.8 with a cat back and a lid as well as with the SS3200 that was with the ls1 intake so I don';t know what to say about the 358rwhp that I have now ,,,,

Sorry guys! I opened up a can of worms here loll Nope My motor is fine 42000miles. Myself and my buddy did the exact same upgrade I went with a Yank 3200 he went with a TCI 3000 and we both got 358 and 359rwhp he stayed with his ls1 intake I went with the LS6 with the same 222/226 cam I'm obviously wrong here but my buddy had 308 rwhp and I had 313 before the build but that was dynoed on different days so....He went with a Flowmaster exhaust 3 inch to dual 3inch I went with a Magnaflow 3 inch in to dual 2.5" out both no cats 3" all the way with y pipe!!

I'm absolutely sure I had an ls1 with a v sha[e type bottom and egr and I installed a flat bottom type intake Also checked the #'s to make sure and yes my tuner did switch to 28.8lbs injectors but I did have a check engine that came on about 30mon after I left the dyno and it was a bad o2 sensor so I replaced it and now your making me think that I should go back and double check my tune.

I.m thinking the TCI stall might be more efficient than the Yank here as well anyway I obviously have to investigate further Thanks for the feedback guys


Highly doubtful it the stall. Yanks are known for their efficiency:nod:

And the LS6 should really only see gains from 4500 up. Yes it is better but IMO not a dramatic difference especially on a mildly modded motor...

My ls6 intake # is 12561184 I was told ls6 but maybe it was a switch for thE same thing loll That would just be my luck :-) Now I will get it checked again to make sure and maybe change my 2 o2 sensors they are stock and they have 42or 43000miles now

It would be nice to have 380rwhp instead of 360rwhp I wonder what else my tuner could of done he is considered a good tuner but I know nothing about tuning ....

Dont race dynos! Take it to the track and have fun with it on the street

My car bolt ons made just under what your making...something is wrong.

My car bolt ons made just under what your making...something is wrong.


Bull shit. That's why I told him to take it to the track and not race dynos.

My car makes what "bolt on cars make" and I raced one of the bolt on cars that supposedly dynos the same as me and put 10+ car lengths on him...

Dyno racing is for internet kiddies.

I have basically the same cam custom specd to pass smog in CA. when i dynod cam only, with a lid and catback i made 365 rwhp and 345 lb ft. After the headers and catted y, i dynoed 391/365 SAE corrected. I think its your tuner, but then again you are an automatic, and i'm a manual trans. M6's make more power for sure.

Racing dynos again :bang:

I.m thinking the TCI stall might be more efficient than the Yank here as well anyway I obviously have to investigate further Thanks for the feedback guys

I'm sure it's the other way around.

Highly doubtful it the stall. Yanks are known for their efficiency:nod:

Agreed. I'd put my money on the Yank over the TCI in terms of efficiency any day.

Bull shit. That's why I told him to take it to the track and not race dynos.

My car makes what "bolt on cars make" and I raced one of the bolt on cars that supposedly dynos the same as me and put 10+ car lengths on him...

Dyno racing is for internet kiddies.

I wish this guy that is saying something is wrong would be here I would show him my tailights Like I said I am extremely happy with the gains this car is an animal I pulled my buddy so hard he thought his car was not working right and he shows 322 on the dyno! He tried my car and he said he couldn't beleive the diffrence I can't wait to try this baby at the track!!!

I have basically the same cam custom specd to pass smog in CA. when i dynod cam only, with a lid and catback i made 365 rwhp and 345 lb ft. After the headers and catted y, i dynoed 391/365 SAE corrected. I think its your tuner, but then again you are an automatic, and i'm a manual trans. M6's make more power for sure.

See I'm at 358.9rwhp and that is with no heads and automatic you take off 20% vs 6 speed 13-15 % I was told that those are the #'s so I would say I am pretty close to what it makes it did make 361 at 1 point but we brought down the shift point at 61 -6200 instead of 6400 at 6400 I was told nthe ls1 doesn't like anything over 6400rpm

I'm sure it's the other way around.



Agreed. I'd put my money on the Yank over the TCI in terms of efficiency any day.

I love my Yank don't get me wrong I'm just tossing idea;s around I wouldn't trade my Yank for a TCI either regardless :-)

See I'm at 358.9rwhp and that is with no heads and automatic you take off 20% vs 6 speed 13-15 % I was told that those are the #'s so I would say I am pretty close to what it makes it did make 361 at 1 point but we brought down the shift point at 61 -6200 instead of 6400 at 6400 I was told nthe ls1 doesn't like anything over 6400rpm

IMO autos usually dyno low compared to a manual. Seen MS4 cars put down under 380 whp so what does that tell ya? Dont tell us an ls6 intake makes no difference cuz its been proven over & over it does.

I'm sure it's the other way around. I'd put my money on the Yank over the TCI in terms of efficiency any day.Jimmyblue has done the efficiency calcs on the TCI 3000 and shown it to be a highly efficient converter - very much on a par with Yank. Nevertheless, the issue at hand has nothing to do with the converters.

The basic problem comes from comparing your car to another. The original post led me to believe that you dynoed both intakes on your car and saw no gains. That would be an unusual result. But the fact that your car dynoes the same as an equivalently modded car with an LS1 intake is null. You can't compare one car's dyno results to another's - except for bench racing purposes.

Jimmyblue has done the efficiency calcs on the TCI 3000 and shown it to be a highly efficient converter - very much on a par with Yank.

This is interesting, and I'm sure it must be accurate info as Jimmyblue is always extremely thorough and detailed. Were any other converters compared for efficiency as part of this evaluation? I'm curious to see where the rankings would stand for a given case size/stall speed from the major players.

See I'm at 358.9rwhp and that is with no heads and automatic you take off 20% vs 6 speed 13-15 % I was told that those are the #'s so I would say I am pretty close to what it makes it did make 361 at 1 point but we brought down the shift point at 61 -6200 instead of 6400 at 6400 I was told nthe ls1 doesn't like anything over 6400rpm

Well that settles that, it sounds like you figured out you are where you should be, lol.

Not all converters are created equal, even from the same manufacturer. I'm pretty sure Yank's huge SS line gives up some on WOT efficiency for its hard hitting nature off the line and ease of driving around town. On the other hand a different spec'd converter can be loose at part throttle, hit softer at the line and pull like a MF on the back end. Its all in the design of the converter. They can tailor them to suit your needs/driving style. I think Jimmy's converter he spec'd for efficiency in mind and I'm pretty the one he runs is a Fuddle. I have heard him talk about it many times.

Racing dynos again :bang:

no shit lol.......welcome to LS1Tech bro!!! :lol:

IMO autos usually dyno low compared to a manual. Seen MS4 cars put down under 380 whp so what does that tell ya? Dont tell us an ls6 intake makes no difference cuz its been proven over & over it does.

very true.........however if you get a dyno operator that knows his equipment and will take the time to set it up correctly it will read accuratly......now the odds of that happening.......virtually 0



See I'm at 358.9rwhp and that is with no heads and automatic you take off 20% vs 6 speed 13-15 % I was told that those are the #'s so I would say I am pretty close to what it makes it did make 361 at 1 point but we brought down the shift point at 61 -6200 instead of 6400 at 6400 I was told nthe ls1 doesn't like anything over 6400rpm

again dont race dyno's........i agree the OP's number is a bit low.....whether its a tune issue or just possibly a camshaft that is overrated by the LS1tech crowd......regardless dont race dynos......there are far too many variables to be able to compare one to the next.....not only do variables exisit in the car (tire pressure/wheel size/wheel weight/sidewall stifness/gear ratio/parasitic loss via rear end/dshaft/coverter weight/efficency/oil temps/trans temps/gear oil temps) but there are variables in the accuracy of the calibration of the weather systems on the dynos to accuratlely correct the number to a 0 DA sea level number......again FAR too many variables........explain this one to me......my LT1 car rolled 430rwhp last time i had it on a dyno for TUNING purposes only......everybody laughed at me cause it was so loud and radical and made such a low number.......yet we were all at the track the following day and i stomp conistant 9.9x-10.0x @ 133-135 all day with car at 3300lbs and everybody is looking at me like i got 6 heads........430rwhp i think not.........

DONT RACE DYNOS!!!! lol

:D

This is interesting, and I'm sure it must be accurate info as Jimmyblue is always extremely thorough and detailed. Were any other converters compared for efficiency as part of this evaluation? I'm curious to see where the rankings would stand for a given case size/stall speed from the major players.He's posted about it many times. He compared that one - his previous converter - to the Fuddle he runs now.

Coincidentally, I used to run a TCI 3000 against my buddies indentically modded T/A with a SS3200 and gave up nothing to him.

no shit lol.......welcome to LS1Tech bro!!! :lol:



very true.........however if you get a dyno operator that knows his equipment and will take the time to set it up correctly it will read accuratly......now the odds of that happening.......virtually 0



again dont race dyno's........i agree the OP's number is a bit low.....whether its a tune issue or just possibly a camshaft that is overrated by the LS1tech crowd......regardless dont race dynos......there are far too many variables to be able to compare one to the next.....not only do variables exisit in the car (tire pressure/wheel size/wheel weight/sidewall stifness/gear ratio/parasitic loss via rear end/dshaft/coverter weight/efficency/oil temps/trans temps/gear oil temps) but there are variables in the accuracy of the calibration of the weather systems on the dynos to accuratlely correct the number to a 0 DA sea level number......again FAR too many variables........explain this one to me......my LT1 car rolled 430rwhp last time i had it on a dyno for TUNING purposes only......everybody laughed at me cause it was so loud and radical and made such a low number.......yet we were all at the track the following day and i stomp conistant 9.9x-10.0x @ 133-135 all day with car at 3300lbs and everybody is looking at me like i got 6 heads........430rwhp i think not.........

DONT RACE DYNOS!!!! lol

:D

I love people that make sense loll I was expecting 360rwhp that's where I'm at My tuner is the best in this area People from 4-5 hrs away drive down to see him. Does je know it all probably not but what I can say is I love my car I LOOOOVVVE the power diffrence the Yank converter kicks ass I was just surprised that some people on here tell me that they have the same set up as me and actually 380rwhp when we just did 2 cars same set up and came out pretty close from 355 to 360rwhp

My other buddy did the Lunati cam Voodoo 224/228 113lsa and he dynoed at 353rwhp with ls6 ported heads He will be going back to get it checked out because he jsut added headers so that should bring him to over 360rwhp.

This EPS CAM is kick ass to me we both did higher # than a comparable cam without heads so I am happy I was just really wondering why so much difference between cars and you answered that I have 18's with 295's in the back so that should bring it down a bit plus it was very humid that so bottom line I'm a happy camper I more wondering why the difference plus my buddy satrtde with 303rwhp and I started with 313 and we ended up 5rwhp different sa that tells me we are in the range of what it can do :-)

Thanks for all the feedback !!!!!:judge:

Mines had dynoed at 313rwhp before the headers and cam and afterwards dyned 363 still with the ls1 intake, shift points are set at 6400rpms, that's what dual springs and titanium retainers are for, LS1 won't like shifts points too high on stock springs ;) With the LS6 intake you should be at around the 370s, take it to the track and see if it traps 115-116, don't know what your gears are though.

huh, i hope theres somthing wrong, cause i got the opposite right now. i have a stock 98 LS1, 3200 stall, LS6 intake manifold, LTH, and a frost tune and managed 301RWHP on a dyno with 6000 being my rpm limit for now.... i too was disappointed with my dyno numbers, but the car FEELS totally different. in a good way

i hope with a moderatly sized 224r cam im looking into should get me at least 340RWHP with a slightbetter actual dyno tune.

A dyno is just a tuning tool. I'd rather have a great tune on a dyno that reads low, then OK tune on a dyno that high.
Yeah at one time or another we all get caught up in the numbers, when it's the quality of the tune is what really matters!

i know, and realistically, a stalled auto is always going to dyno lower then a M6. the track is where it will really make a differentce. a good bolt on car alone should be around 300-330ish with a stall at the wheels on a dyno. Enginewise is another story.

however that being said, the op had a 226 sized cam that should be 40ish more HP over stock with an LS6 intake... and he has the same number as ME!! i dont have a cam. somthing isdefinitly wrong.