romanianfury

First off let me say I have been a long time member of ltxtech and have exhausted all the advice from the forum members there; so I decided to come here and broaden my horizons in my reach for help. I really hope there is someone here that can help me figure this problem out. Thank you all in advance. And before anyone flames me, i did put a scanner on it and it said that the computer was not responding. I will list the story below and ive uploaded a video of the problem.

Story:

car is a 1994 camaro z28 m6. odometer reads 234,000 miles on it. was told by previous owner that the motor had been replaced. about three months ago i replaced the opti spark, water pump, and wires. checked the plugs and they were a bit black but i ran out of money so i kept em in. now on to the problems. the car seems to stumble throughout the entire rpm range. its not a misfire or a pop but more like hesitation. This happens regardless of throttle input. the stumble is similar to when someone lets out the clutch too soon in 1st and it jerks. now, when the car is at full operating temps and idles, it holds 20psi oil pressure or so but starts to bounce around up and down. ok update time. i checked and had one of the wires unplugged. put that back on and tested fuel pressure. with the key in "on" position, the fuel pressure read 38psi. with engine on idling it read 39-40psi. when the engine turned off it read around 30psi and fell very slowly. it still seems like the idle is weird, choppy, and weak. then at times the car turns over but won't start, during this time fuel pressure reads zero at shredder valve.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL1sBilhpR8

OutlawDrifter

iTrader: (9)

injectors, idle air control motor, possibly a map or maf sensor? at the end of the video it was idling better, 20psi isn't awesome for oil pressure(but i don't know what is expected with an LT1).

what else have you tried from the other website?...(just so we don't try and reinvent the wheel)

romanianfury

im not sure exactly what to try. i have tested the maf by unplugging it while the car runs, from what i have been told if the maf is bad and you unplug it then the car will run better...mine didnt change and it just died.

grazi

You have to unplug the maf with the engine off. It will always die if you unplug it with engine running

grazi

Mine had similiar problem, found it was a bad ECT sensor in the waterpump. Could be giving the computer false reading, and that would trigger check engine light.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

You need to hook up the fuel pressure gauge and show it through the windshield so we can see the fuel pressure as it acts up. Fuel pressure should remain fairly constant. Should never go below 34psi so if it is dropping way down there are a couple of things that can cause that. Bad pump, bad regulator, Broken fuel suction line on the pump assembly in tank.
Either let us know what the fuel pressure does or post another vid of it.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

You seem to have a couple of issues here, First off, black carbon fouled plugs, You "NEED" to change them out, do not clean them, install new ones, Heck the TR5's are like only what $16.00 a box. Fuel pressure, One possibly a bad FP regulator for the low pressure at idle, but the pressure dropping to o sounds like the fuel pump valve letting the fuel return back to the tank resulting in no pressure at the Schroeder..

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What are the trouble codes?