Generation III Internal Engine - Arp head bolts vs arp head studs

Always wondered what the advantages were for one or the other. Thanks

Can't go wrong with either. I use the ARP bolts. Make sure to use the ARP moly lube and torque to their specs.

Both much stronger than stock head bolts, dont need to be torqued to yield which means no torque angle gauge needed in the tight confines of an Fbody engine compartment. Torque to 75 ft lb & your done. Head studs have higher clamping capacity which is recommended for FI but make it more difficult to remove heads with engine in the car.

Granted I'm running an iron block, but the ARP bolts have worked fine on my 408 with 12.5:1 compression and 8,000 rpms

get the studs, easier than bolts.. and you can do them in car just as easy as bolts... + your dont ever have to worry about coolant in the threads..

On this topic, IDK whether I really need studs for a close to stock ls1 cr that will probably never see more than 10 lbs of boost. Likewise I would think I needed main studs even less at this power level. Is it foolish not to by $500 worth of studs for an engine that only does around 550-600whp?

Head studs will be subject to the wear and tear of assembly/disassembly and hold up much better than the threads in your aluminum block.

Studs are superior for two reasons. The when you torque the they are more accurate because you are only torquing the nut. Studs also have the advantage like someone else said that they aren't nearly as hard on the threads in the block.

I am not certain but I think they are also a little stronger(might just be the better torque) but all of the difference between the two are very minimal. For your case bolts will be just fine in my opinion. It never hurts to upgrade for such a fairly small amount of money compared to the rest of your build.

On this topic, IDK whether I really need studs for a close to stock ls1 cr that will probably never see more than 10 lbs of boost. Likewise I would think I needed main studs even less at this power level. Is it foolish not to by $500 worth of studs for an engine that only does around 550-600whp?



Try $245, Look at some of the sponsors. Summit Racing and Jegs are the ones charging $300+

Let's throw the other wrench in the question....

hex head or 12pt, and why?

Let's throw the other wrench in the question....

hex head or 12pt, and why?

+1 thats what i want to know. after reading all these topics about studs, it makes me think twice on why i purchased bolts for my soon to be head swap. :bang:

Let's throw the other wrench in the question....

hex head or 12pt, and why?

There is no difference. The amount of wrenching points on the nut only enables you to get a socket on it at nearly any angle. Less prone to rounding the nut too.

The strength of the nut...that could be subjective. IMHO the hex nut is thicker, but the threads are the weak link.

Question is, how much harder is it to take the heads off with studs while in the car? And do you have to raise the engine at all to do so?

Question is, how much harder is it to take the heads off with studs while in the car? And do you have to raise the engine at all to do so?

I researched this as well. Many will say you can remove the heads with no issues.

Question is, how much harder is it to take the heads off with studs while in the car? And do you have to raise the engine at all to do so?

I read a thread about exactly this about a week ago and the concensus was it's very easy to swap them leaving the studs installed.

Never have to worry about a coolant cracked block. That's what swayed my decision.

Studs are always better, especially in an aluminum block because:

-Studs are fully threaded to the bottom of the thread bore. With bolts, you're using fewer threads.

-Studs do not turn within the block threads reducing the chance of damaging them. This is less important in an iron block.

-With studs, there's no worry of hydraulically fracturing the block.

-With studs, the nutted end has fine threads making the clamping force of torquing them more accurate.

Studs are easy to install. They have a Allen hex recess on the top end allowing them to spin in easily.

12 point nuts are more "convenient" to use as you can use a smaller socket and it's better locked into it.

ARP bolts are a good step up from stock bolts but studs are the better bet.

Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?

Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?

Dude that totally depends on your pocket book. I would stud all I could if I had the $$$

Yeah, thats what I'm thinking. I found main studs but I can't find rod studs. All I can find are"arp cracked rods" bolts...

I don't believe they make studs for rods.

Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?

Your rod bolts are the weakest link in the bottom end, you really have two good choices here...Katech bolts can be put right in, for the ARP bolts you are supposed to have your rods resized......I have gone both ways and never had a problem. With the Katechs in my stock block I hydro locked number 7 and threw it out the side of the block and pan.....the bolts were still tight and perfect, but the new shortblock stroker I picked up already had the ARP bolts in it so I gave the Katech bolts to a friend that is still running them in his motor.

Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?

if your already going to be into it that deep i would hella spend the money on the arp rod and mains. it will make your stock bottom end just that much more reliable.

Are the Arp head bolts reusable? or is it a one and done thing like the factory bolts

They are reusable

Try $245, Look at some of the sponsors. Summit Racing and Jegs are the ones charging $300+
Wait a minute, who is selling head and main studs for less than$300? Maybe you meant just for head studs.

Also, we all know that studs are better than bolts. That has never been the question. We don't need any more posts about why studs are better.

if your already going to be into it that deep i would hella spend the money on the arp rod and mains. it will make your stock bottom end just that much more reliable.
Rod bolts are one thing because the oem ones are weak as piss, but do you even hear about people breaking mains in street applications?

Also, we all know that studs are better than bolts. That has never been the question. We don't need any more posts about why studs are better.

AGREED. BUT, there are still those (not I!) that say it's no better and not worth the cost.

AGREED. BUT, there are still those (not I!) that say it's no better and not worth the cost.

And those same folks probably use Fram oil filters too!

:nod:

Wait a minute, who is selling head and main studs for less than$300? Maybe you meant just for head studs.

A Sponsor here!!


www.speed-eng.com!


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-12pt-head-stud-kit-ls1-thru-2003-p-8043.html


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-head-studs-point04-ls1ls2ls6-p-8048.html

And those same folks probably use Fram oil filters too!

C5R heads are better than 243 heads, but is it really worth it if I were only shooting for 400whp? In many applications, main studs are not worth the cost. You can still make a lot of power with the OEM main bolts.

And I use Wix oil filters!

I agree with that about main fasteners. It's head fastener installation that are so finicky. Heads or mains, I'd always be nervous torquing threaded fasteners into an aluminum casting with threads cut into it.

I agree with that about main fasteners. It's head fastener installation that are so finicky. Heads or mains, I'd always be nervous torquing threaded fasteners into an aluminum casting with threads cut into it.

#1 reason why I decided to go Studs. I would be just so sick to death if I twisted out a head thread on a brand new block . Head bolts have been used by many without any ill effects, but I want a higher percentage of success.

A Sponsor here!!


www.speed-eng.com!


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-12pt-head-stud-kit-ls1-thru-2003-p-8043.html


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-head-studs-point04-ls1ls2ls6-p-8048.html

Look, IDK if we just have a failure to communicate here or what, but where I come from ~$250-260 for head studs and and $190 for main studs adds up to about $450.