General Maintenance & Repairs - Has anyone deleted the power steering cooler with success

Just found out my powersteering fluid is leaking and been doing some research about installing a tranny cooler. I live in NM where it doesnt get abot 95 degrees and i dont do alot of racing. Will i have problems just deleting the cooler all together? Thanks for your help

Never heard of that...............LOL

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'98-99 Z28s, Formulas and Trans Ams didn't even come with the cooler originally. You can buy a radiator hose for a base model V8 LS1 (non-SS/WS6) from '98 or '99 and easily delete the cooler.

There are also threads that illustrate the installation of an aftermarket power steering cooler, if you want to go that route. IMO, if you are not racing/using the car in such a way that puts the PS system under prolonged or extreme stress/heat, then you'll be fine without it.

$40.00 and 15 minutes and you have an aftermarket cooler on there. I suggest you do it. Cooler fluid temps will make your pump live a long long time. Temps with this cooler, leaving the cooler, and with the scoop I cut out in the air dam, are in the mid 120*F range. Thats COOOOOOL.....

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What years have a PS Pump Cooler, pardoning my ignorance?

What years have a PS Pump Cooler, pardoning my ignorance?

I've read that is has to do with what size wheels came on the car. Not sure if the year matters at all.

I've read that is has to do with what size wheels came on the car. Not sure if the year matters at all.

Actually kinda makes sense.

I've read that is has to do with what size wheels came on the car. Not sure if the year matters at all.

They were originally on the WS6 and SS until power steering pumps started failing. Then, GM went and installed them on all V8's.

So, removing the cooler will heat the fluid and burn up the pump faster.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0602htp_ls1_fbody_turn_one_power_steering_pump_ins tall/index.html


Here's a thread with a lot of good alternatives. IMO - the rail cooler is the most efficient way to go: http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/1343182-power-steering-cooling-success.html

so if i go with a tranny cooler, size doesnt particually matter right

so if i go with a tranny cooler, size doesnt particually matter right

Did you read my post above? Cooling is ALL about size of the cooler AND airflow provided to that cooler. If you want your temps to be in the mid 120's*F during city driving on a hot ass day......do what I did with a simple, cheap, 4 row tranny fluid cooler.

Or, ask people with other set-ups to get you some temp readings on theirs, and maybe do one of their set-ups.

Look at the thread/link above that "wssix99" provided.....it has all the info and answers you'll need.

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I've read that is has to do with what size wheels came on the car. Not sure if the year matters at all.

Yes, the year matters (as to whether or not it came stock with a cooler). '98-'02 WS6/SS all had the cooler, but the early ('98-'99) base model V8s (Z28/Trans Am/Formula) did not have the cooler. I think 2000 was the first year that the cooler appeared on the base model V8 cars.

FWIW, my '98 has the original PS pump, no stock cooler, no aftermarket cooler, and the larger 17x9 SS wheels installed. It's been that way since just about forever, and the pump is quiet and fine. Granted, it's low mileage, doesn't get raced, and I live in a climate that's much cooler than the southern guys. I'm sure this is a much bigger concern for those of you living in hot areas and/or that push the steering system hard while racing.

My 2000 Z28 does not have it. I'm the third owner and know the second owner, and the car is still bone stock, so I doubt the original owner removed it, but it's possible. Could be a mid year change too I guess.

I'm definitely planning on adding something before any autocross.

So is a PS Pump Cooler something I should invest in for a M6 LT1?

So is a PS Pump Cooler something I should invest in for a M6 LT1?

Not sure if its an issue for 3rd gen.

Not sure if its an issue for 3rd gen.

It isn't a 3rd gen...

It's a 95 Firebird Formula w/ the GM LT1 V8 and a T56 transmission...

i was thinkin of deleting mine all together but ill just get a cooler, no big deal. when my car gets up to operating temp, my ps is loud as sh*t and embarrassing when ppl r around.

i was thinkin of deleting mine all together but ill just get a cooler, no big deal. when my car gets up to operating temp, my ps is loud as sh*t and embarrassing when ppl r around.

How long has it been making that noise? Usually they don't last too much longer after they start making noise. But some do......

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The stock cooler is worthless, and you definitely don't need a cooler for a street or drag car.

Got a 99 z with 145k. I'm original owner. No cooler no problems.... and I live in Tampa.

I actually just finished installing an aftermarket cooler for my '00 SS and was a very simple install. I also had to flush the system because of coolant contamination, but that too was simple.

By the way, Thank you LS6427 for the help on that. Followed his instructions and it all went well. I still have to make a cut on the bottom for the cooler to get more air, but will do that later.

I actually just finished installing an aftermarket cooler for my '00 SS and was a very simple install. I also had to flush the system because of coolant contamination, but that too was simple.

By the way, Thank you LS6427 for the help on that. Followed his instructions and it all went well. I still have to make a cut on the bottom for the cooler to get more air, but will do that later.

Your welcome......

YES....absolutely do that cut out, it makes all the difference.........it will run WAY WAY cooler temps than without it.

***Actually, maybe get some temp readings on the coolers exit port (at the metal, not the rubber) going back to the fluid reservoir BEFORE doing the cut out. I want to see how much hotter it runs without the cut out. I used a laser temp gauge. Also, I can touch my cooler tubes with my hand any time and keep my hand on it, no matter how hot it is outside or how aggressive I've been driving. So maybe just try that first. BE CAREFUL, I'm presuming it might be way too hot to touch without getting burned.

I was going to put a piece of duct tape over my cut out for that temp test, but if you can do it, great.

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How long has it been making that noise? Usually they don't last too much longer after they start making noise. But some do......

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well i bought it at the end of december and it started warmin up a cpl months ago....so its been doin it awhile. i know it gets hot because it pukes ps fluid outta the top :barf:

well i bought it at the end of december and it started warmin up a cpl months ago....so its been doin it awhile. i know it gets hot because it pukes ps fluid outta the top :barf:

Maybe flush it....you could have some air in there.

My write-up:

Power Steering Fluid Flush:
************************************************** **
You and 2 friends.

Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands so you can turn the wheels left and right.

Engine and fluids….COLD.

Remove the hose that attaches to the bottom of the reservoir. Immediately cap that port with a vacuum port type rubber cap so the fluid doesn't pour out. You can buy assorted cap kits at the auto parts store. Or you can use a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to quickly slip on the port and just point the other end up higher than the reservoir cap so none comes out. Tape it or clamp it in place.

The hose you just removed from the reservoir.......Point it down under the car into a drain pan. This is the hose either coming from the factory cooler (if you have one).....or its coming from the rack (if you do not have the factory cooler). Either way, doesn't matter.

Have a friend hold that hose into the pan and keep his thumb over the end and wait there. The entire flush is a matter of 2 minutes.

Have another friend with 4 new OPEN bottles of PS fluid ready to start dumping it into the reservoir.

You get in the car and start the engine.

Your friend removes his finger from the hose end and lets the fluid shoot into the pan. As you turn the wheels FULL right and left have your friend pour new fluid into the reservoir as the level drops. It could drop fast so be ready to pour. Fluid will come shooting out of the hose into the pan.

As soon as the friend holding the hose sees clean new fluid coming out into the pan.............stop the engine.
(if the friend that is pouring fluid in ever sees the reservoir about to run dry because he cannot pour it in fast enough, simply have him tell you to shut the engine off. Top it off and start the engine again. Don't let it run dry.)

Put the hose back onto the reservoir, clamp it. Top it off with PS fluid.

Your done.

CHECK to see if during this project you spilled any power steering fluid onto or into the alternator. If you did, simply drench it with WD-40 or SeaFoam spray to clean it. Then rinse it real good with hose water. Go for a 10 minute drive, take a bottle of fluid with you in case you hear any noise you can pull over immediately and top it off. Then come back and check the level one more time. Its fine to take the cap off when its hot. Top off the fluid if needed.

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I'll try to get those temps.

Do you think that Power steering falling on the alternator can cause the alternator to not charge and/or fail? You think that WD40 will help?

I'll try to get those temps.

Do you think that Power steering falling on the alternator can cause the alternator to not charge and/or fail? You think that WD40 will help?

Yes, PS fluid kills alternators. Drench the shit out of it with a full can of WD-40 or SeaFoam spray. Let it sit about 15 minutes and rinse it with hose water. Maybe even do half a can, then rinse, then do it again. ((If you know there's been PS fluid dripping on it)) You can blast alternators directly with a hose, don't worry about it.

Also, make sure your "excitor wire" is in good shape and didn't break or come unplugged.

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Yes, PS fluid kills alternators. Drench the shit out of it with a full can of WD-40 or SeaFoam spray. Let it sit about 15 minutes and rinse it with hose water. Maybe even do half a can, then rinse, then do it again. ((If you know there's been PS fluid dripping on it)) You can blast alternators directly with a hose, don't worry about it.

Also, make sure your "excitor wire" is in good shape and didn't break or come unplugged.

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I missed this step and my alternator isn't charging and the car is dead. I'm going to have to try this and see if it will work. I'm crossing my fingers that it'll help. I already ordered a new alternator, but I'm still going to try it anyway.

wd40 will work wonders!

I'm going to have to go get a can of WD40 after school and try it. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work, at least until the new alternator gets here. I know for a fact that power steering fluid got into the alternator when we were flushing the power steering system, AT NIGHT.

My bad OP, I'm stealing your thread over here, but this info will be of lots of help for you too.

I'm going to have to go get a can of WD40 after school and try it. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work, at least until the new alternator gets here. I know for a fact that power steering fluid got into the alternator when we were flushing the power steering system, AT NIGHT.

Bump the key while spraying the alternator so you get it all the way around the wire band. ((or whatever its called...lol))

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Guys...

Please don't spray WD-40 anywhere on your car unless you are loosening a rusted bolt.

WD-40 is a penetrating oil and a solvent. If you spray it on a mechanical piece of equipment, it will dissolve rust, unwanted oils, BUT it will also dissolve the "good" grease in the bearings. This will certainly cause the part to fail.

Power steering fluid does not hurt alternators. In order for it to upset the alternator function, it would have to be a magnetic fluid, which its not. The windings are coated, the electronics are sealed, and alternators are used to being dirty. (The pick up grease and road grime as a natural part of their doing business.)


I guess if an alternator is "dead," there's noting to loose in bathing it in WD-40 as a hail mary pass, but any result would be short lived. I'd take it to a parts store to be tested before trying a shade tree fix. The alternator could be perfectly good. The only way to know for sure is to put it on a tester.

Well guys, I went and did it. I sprayed the WD40 on the alternator and it didn't work. The car still dies after being jump started. I guess I'm just going to have to wait for the new alternator to get here to swap it out. What a pain.

Well guys, I went and did it. I sprayed the WD40 on the alternator and it didn't work. The car still dies after being jump started. I guess I'm just going to have to wait for the new alternator to get here to swap it out. What a pain.

Then it died for another reason. Many people have reported charging issues and then we all come to find out they had a PS fluid leak and it dumped all over the alternator. They clean them and they work fine after that. If that didn't work to clean it up, something else killed it. maybe just a dud, which is pretty common.

When I did my factory PS fluid delete years and years ago I dumped PS fluid all over my alternator, but I knew it happened. WD-40 or SeaFoam spray is what I mused ((can't remember which I had)) and it cleaned it all out of there and its been running great for years and years now.

So your alternator died for another reason.......

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Well may as well learn more about this, so my problem was with the pump, didnt have the money to delete stock cooler just yet, after i replace the old PS pump i have this wicked noise on acceleration, plus i ripped the excitor wire. Did i get a bad new PS pump, and do i have to get a new pigtail due to the location the wire tore off.
Video of noise from PS pump
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/jperraul/?action=view&current=video-2012-04-28-11-34-29.mp4
Could my pulley be to far back and that is what is causing the noise?
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/jperraul/2012-04-28144108.jpg
Picture of alternator connector that tore. Do the v6 98-02's have the same connector?
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/jperraul/2012-04-28141215.jpg

One last picture, one of the lines is different than the stock pump, could this be the cause the whine
The new pump has a line sticking up, before both lines were below the pump
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/jperraul/2012-04-28144101.jpg

^^ That pump is totally wrong. Its not for this car. The pulley is not stock and the reservoir top should be level. Its cocked to the side and WILL leak fluid on you.

mine is stock, here is a pic for comparisson

My 2000 Z28 does not have it. I'm the third owner and know the second owner, and the car is still bone stock, so I doubt the original owner removed it, but it's possible. Could be a mid year change too I guess.

I'm definitely planning on adding something before any autocross.

It was a stand alone option on the base Z28s in 2000.

I know because I ordered mine that way (it was the ONLY option I ordered, along with the GS-C tires), even though I have since deleted it and installed (mounted behind my empty fog light opening in the front fascia for cool air) a stacked plate air to fluid p.s. cooler (yes, for autocross/open tracking/etc.). ;)