Cadillac CTS-V - Maggie Fuel Loop Delete & Clean FRC Install

So I've had my FRC's for some time now but refused to install them with the stupid Magnuson fuel manifold and unsightly fuel loop they supply. I wanted to plumb my fuel line straight into the back rail crossover but had to have a way to delete the fuel manifold. Another member along time ago made some block off plates but they have since been sold off and are long gone. So after looking around I came up with a solution. It is used on a Corvette with no intercooler to block off that location when they ship it to Magnuson (here are the directions, its step 16 Instructions (http://www.superchargersonline.com/installmanuals/magnacharger/manual-ChevroletCorvetteIntercoolerUpgrade.pdf). A quick email to David and I had my solution.

Here is the block off plate shown on the right next to the stock fuel manifold.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/2012-04-23_10-45-33_320.jpg

And installed on the rail with o-ring.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/2012-04-23_10-48-57_993.jpg

Next I had to plumb into the rear crossover and to do that I order a bunch of parts. Of course what all I ordered didn't work out as planned but after another order I had everything I needed. Although I ended up not having all SS braided like I had wanted I was able to get it done.

Here is a pic of the final solution. There really isn't as much room back there as I had initially thought. Thus the goofy looking loop.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/136_0202.jpg

In addition to the stuff I did above I should mention I also re-routed the front crossover and deleted the EVAP. Here are a couple pics of that.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/2012-04-23_12-28-28_142.jpg

Hole drilled to keep line off of pulley.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/2012-04-23_12-29-49_297.jpg

And last but not least my FRC's installed. Clean! :)

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/136_0194.jpg

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/136_0199.jpg

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/136_0198.jpg

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q365/CancerJCC/Internet%20Uploads/136_0197.jpg

Parts list for anyone looking to tackle this.

1) 18" SS braided line with male -6 AN connectors on either end. (Don't recall Brand but it replaces the rear hard line)
2) -6 AN Tee. 2 male sides and 1 Female. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-926106ERL
3) GM Fuel rail to -6 AN male. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640940
4) -6 AN female to push loc. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100051/10002/-1?parentProductId=
5) -6 AN 90* female to push loc. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100071/10002/-1?parentProductId=
6) 5' Push loc fuel line. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/102010/10002/-1?parentProductId=
7) Block off Plate. (Call Magnuson) 69-57-00-030 $2.08
8) Bolts for use with block off plate. (Call Magnuson) 71-00-06-010 $.50 (ea)

whered you get all your intake tubing?

That was "wild" who had blocks made.

I just took the stock unit and turned it around, drilled and tapped it.

Screwed a seal into the other end.

I am gonna drill and tap the seal (blue bolt head thing) for a fuel pressure sender, which will be trick.

whered you get all your intake tubing?

Frozenboost.com

I also have a lot of what I used in this thread here:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/214422-magnuson-intake-relocate-fender-well-pics.html

After a long time having it this way I don't believe it helps with cooling the intake charge as your in boost. However it helps TREMENDOUSLY with getting BACK down to temps once you are cruising again.

That was "wild" who had blocks made.

I just took the stock unit and turned it around, drilled and tapped it.

Screwed a seal into the other end.

I am gonna drill and tap the seal (blue bolt head thing) for a fuel pressure sender, which will be trick.

Ah yes he was before my time but I remember reading about them.

I thought about doing that as well. Of course that wouldn't alleviate the height issue and getting into the FRC's. I do like the height though for a fuel pressure sender. The location I had mine previously was quite bulky (a bunch of fittings to get it to work). I guess each has its ups and downs. I like the clean look though and actually scrapped the FPS anyhow. (Had two fail)

I just took the stock unit and turned it around, drilled and tapped it.


One more thing. Your idea might be better for the guys wishing to retain their EVAP. Without the bracket provided from the fuel manifold there are little places to put it and make it look nice and secure. I didn't actually set out to delete it but after seeing my mounting options I did just that.

do you have any left?

I do have the blue cap with the "o" ring for sealing it.

Any decent machinist should be able to drill and tap your stock unit for ya.

I think I do have one spare one in a box somewhere in my blackhole of a garage.

Where'd you get - 1) 18" SS braided line with male -6 AN connectors on either end. (Don't recall Brand but it replaces the rear hard line) - from?

This maybe a stupid question and I am sure it is but you said you deleted the EVAP. What do you mean you deleted EVAP and how?

Where'd you get - 1) 18" SS braided line with male -6 AN connectors on either end. (Don't recall Brand but it replaces the rear hard line) - from?

This maybe a stupid question and I am sure it is but you said you deleted the EVAP. What do you mean you deleted EVAP and how?

I got that from Summit when I first put on the blower. I don't recall the brand name because it was used to replace that hard line on the rear that was making my wiring harness too tight around the blower base.

No stupid questions if you aren't sure. I removed everything from the fuel line connector (right next to the actual fuel line) forward. (The canister and all of the hose). I then also taped a rag over the now open line to make sure nothing got in there. Then finally I turned off all EVAP related codes with my HP Tuners so I don't have a CEL. This would be the biggest problem for most.

I got that from Summit when I first put on the blower. I don't recall the brand name because it was used to replace that hard line on the rear that was making my wiring harness too tight around the blower base.

No stupid questions if you aren't sure. I removed everything from the fuel line connector (right next to the actual fuel line) forward. (The canister and all of the hose). I then also taped a rag over the now open line to make sure nothing got in there. Then finally I turned off all EVAP related codes with my HP Tuners so I don't have a CEL. This would be the biggest problem for most.

Yeah I want to re-install my FRCs to hide hoses and wires and clean the engine up a little. Thanks for the helpful info. :cheers: