Racer's Lounge - Mountain Biking




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brandon2000z
04-26-2012, 11:15 PM
I'm looking to get into mtn biking and I'm wonder what is a good starter bike/brand (don't want to pay too much 500 max ). I'm a bigger guy 6ft 275lbs any suggestions? Thanks


XtremeBBQ
04-27-2012, 01:52 AM
could try and find an entry lever 29er, will be more comfortable with your height/weight. less to choose from, but they are out there. 500max isnt going to get you much, and they skimp on the parts, crappier shifters, brakes, drivetrain.

myk
04-27-2012, 04:04 AM
I just got into road biking and from what I've learned during my misadventures at various bike shops is that $500 is the absolute minimum you would want to spend on any bike, be it, road, mountain, hybrid, cross, etc. Whatever you do, don't buy a bike from a department store-those things are cheaper than a 4th gen's interior and break easily. The worst part about those cheap bikes breaking is that replacement parts usually AREN'T available which means you're stuck with a useless bike.

Go to your local bike shops and talk to some salespeople. Personally, I'd recommend GT brand bikes but I'm biased because I loved their BMX bikes in high school, and I ride one of their top-level road bikes now.

Again, from my personal experience the LEAST you would want to spend is $500; I think it's more realistic to look at $1K or a little more. Keep in mind that after you buy the bike you've gotta buy safety equipment. A helmet can cost you anywhere from $50 to $200. Cycling jersey can go from $20 to $100. Then you need special mountain biking shoes, matching cleats that lock onto your pedals (another $200 maybe) etc. Another important tip is to test ride as much as you can, and make sure the bike you get is "fitted" to you, which means that a knowledeable salesperson makes sure that the bike you ride is fitted to your rather large body. For example, I would ride a small or 52", but you would definitely ride a L/XL or 60" or whatever.

Proper fit, solid components and a bike shop willing to give you free lifetime adjustments (like Performance Bicycle) are what you should be looking for...


*02WS6TURK*
04-27-2012, 08:51 AM
Gary Fisher makes a really nice mountain bike for bigger buys like yourself. My brother (6'6 300+lbs) just picked one up a year or so back. Solid bike. I myself am fond of the Cannondale's or Specialized. I'm 6'3 200lbs and have no problem beating on either brand. Spend the extra cash whatever you do and get disc brakes.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed
04-27-2012, 09:15 AM
The best thing to do would be to go to the local bike store and get fitted for a bike so you should know about what size you should be looking for and how they feel. Then do a ton of research and buy one used at the LBS or online from craigslist.

+1 on all the extra equipment. You really need it but once you get into this you won't regret it. Buying a cheap bike will severely degrade your experience. A department store bike will be extremely heavy and wear you out fast.

Right now the pickings online might be slim since the weather is great and a lot of people might not want to sell. Doesn't hurt to look!

Endersshadow
04-27-2012, 11:35 AM
Find a 2011 bike on sale. You will get one hell of a deal. 500 will get you a decent entry level bike from most any manufacturer.

BoricuaHec01
04-27-2012, 12:14 PM
Huffy bike from k-mart.

Endersshadow
04-27-2012, 02:14 PM
Huffy bike from k-mart.

Still living up to that name huh? :usa:

BoricuaHec01
04-27-2012, 02:36 PM
Still living up to that name huh? :usa:

That's what it looks like. :cool:

Dr Tran
04-27-2012, 04:24 PM
I just got into road biking and from what I've learned during my misadventures at various bike shops is that $500 is the absolute minimum you would want to spend on any bike, be it, road, mountain, hybrid, cross, etc. Whatever you do, don't buy a bike from a department store-those things are cheaper than a 4th gen's interior and break easily. The worst part about those cheap bikes breaking is that replacement parts usually AREN'T available which means you're stuck with a useless bike.

Go to your local bike shops and talk to some salespeople. Personally, I'd recommend GT brand bikes but I'm biased because I loved their BMX bikes in high school, and I ride one of their top-level road bikes now.

Again, from my personal experience the LEAST you would want to spend is $500; I think it's more realistic to look at $1K or a little more. Keep in mind that after you buy the bike you've gotta buy safety equipment. A helmet can cost you anywhere from $50 to $200. Cycling jersey can go from $20 to $100. Then you need special mountain biking shoes, matching cleats that lock onto your pedals (another $200 maybe) etc. Another important tip is to test ride as much as you can, and make sure the bike you get is "fitted" to you, which means that a knowledeable salesperson makes sure that the bike you ride is fitted to your rather large body. For example, I would ride a small or 52", but you would definitely ride a L/XL or 60" or whatever.

Proper fit, solid components and a bike shop willing to give you free lifetime adjustments (like Performance Bicycle) are what you should be looking for...



While I agree with about everything you said, you can get a decent bike for 500ish and can still be happy. My first mtn bike was a Trek 4300 and I loved it. The helmet is mandatory but none of the other stuff is if he is just starting out seeing if he likes it. Clipless shoes/pedals are very nice, but as a hobby, not really necessary.

'WHEELS'
04-27-2012, 04:59 PM
i made a thread just like this not too long ago, and got some good answers. Still haven't gotten around to getting one, although i still want one. here's some reading material for you:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/racers-lounge/1520415-mountain-bikin-son-bitch.html

WS6Wes
04-27-2012, 08:38 PM
I just picked up a new mountain bike today for about 400 dollars. It's a specialized hardrock entry level bike; nothing too fancy. Reason being it's for rehabilitation of my leg to help get over an ankle break and dislocation I had this past new year's. I looked at bike's as low as 200 bucks all the way up to 2000. For me my 400 dollar specialized will work just fine. It's all up to what you feel is necessary to enjoy yourself.

Your best bet is to just shop around. You won't find anything quality in a shopping center like walmart or target, trust me I looked. And to them they just sell bike's. Most don't know a thing about them. I'd check all your local bike shops and like others have said just test ride what you like. Most bike shops will offer a year of free tuning and repairs, atleast the ones I visited in the past few days. Anyway good luck with the purchase.

myk
04-27-2012, 11:17 PM
While I agree with about everything you said, you can get a decent bike for 500ish and can still be happy. My first mtn bike was a Trek 4300 and I loved it. The helmet is mandatory but none of the other stuff is if he is just starting out seeing if he likes it. Clipless shoes/pedals are very nice, but as a hobby, not really necessary.

True. I also went in just wanting to spend $500, and the first bikes I got were around that price but....the salespeople got me test riding progressively more expensive bikes "for fun" and before you know it I ended up spending $1300 LOL! I ended up trading in my new bikes 3 times before I settled on my GT Series 1. This chick that works there spent 10 freaking large on her bike-that sucker's worth more than my car!

I still think that in the long run, say a year from now, most riders would feel better about having a more expensive bike to start off with. Again, you can have an acceptable bike for $500.

I guess you don't need a jersey but do mountain bikers wear special shorts? I know I need to wear them too, at a nice price of $60 a pair. Also, I thought you needed clipless pedals and shoes-I think they'd help the experience quite a bit. But you're right, that is optional...

2002_Z28_Six_Speed
04-28-2012, 10:47 AM
Perhaps this is true more so with road biking but I was surprised how much of a difference clips make. Much easier to climb hills, more even pedaling, I think even less cramps? Even with some experience my feet would occasionally come off the pedals w/o clips. They were worth the money for me. Would imagine for MTB even more so.

Huge difference when I moved to jerseys but any wicking material that you probably already have for working out would probably do. Sports Academy has padded MTB shorts for about 25 dollars and well worth the money.

hawk584
04-28-2012, 11:25 AM
1st question you have to ask your self is what's your budget, Open up the phone book. Venture away from Walmart/department store bikes built by a kids who don't know what the difference is between a flat head or Phillips screw driver and hunt down some local bike shops(LBS) to see what brands & services they offer. From personal experience don't walk into the 1st bike shop you go to and buy a bike. Like any auto shop, look around to see how the showroom and how the bike maintenance area's are (clean, organized, ect..) Ask questions, listen to what they say and how they say it. I've been talked down to several times after asking the dumbest questions I already knew the answers of just to see what and how they answered them. LBS's each offer their own perks. The bikes maybe a bit more expensive but you'll make that up with free maintenance/ tune ups that will be needed (parts not included ). Like a new car, The 1st few hours of riding is the break in period. In that time shifter/brake cables will stretch which will cause shifting& breaking issues. This is something that needs to be adjusted properly that Walmart/department stores don't do or know how to due as that's how they are assembled( thrown together).
bike sizing is very important as stated in myK's post. your going to want either a 29'er or a large frame. one manufactures 21'' frame might not fit the same as another brands 21'' bike. always wear a helmet, it's cheaper then brain surgery.

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOP!
Unlike department stores who move product like a cheap hooker making a quick buck with a quick blowjob on the street corner, you want the personal touch of a high end girl from a top notch escort service who will take the time to make you feel good, listen to what you say, respond professionally and leave you satisfied ... LBS's want to make a good name for themselves so that you'll tell others so the bike shop should work with you on several levels. walmart won't let you test drive a bike you are interested in. you local bike shop will!

over all it falls back onto what you are looking for and how much are you willing to spend... hopefully my rambling makes some sort of sense... www.mtbr.com is a great website too for bike reviews and it's forum section if full of information.

AnnivSS
04-28-2012, 01:54 PM
I went into the LBS wanting to spend $400, I ended up spending $900. Just bought the 2012 version of my bike (a 2010) for $900 as well for my wife. (2010 & 2012 Giant Yukon FX's).

myk
04-29-2012, 05:15 AM
I went into the LBS wanting to spend $400, I ended up spending $900. Just bought the 2012 version of my bike (a 2010) for $900 as well for my wife. (2010 & 2012 Giant Yukon FX's).


:thumb: In the long run you'll feel better about spending more money up front IMO. As for clip-less pedals I was thinking; wouldn't that be dangerous if you were mountain biking and trying to navigate some rough terrain, lost your balance, needed to put a foot down but couldn't because you were attached to your pedals? On my road bike I've fallen down while clipped :jest: and it didn't feel good; I can only imagine how that would feel on a rocky trail somewhere. I will say however, that being able to pedal with power in a full circle makes being clipped to your bike worth the hassle...

ranman02ta
04-29-2012, 08:17 AM
Hi

I ride alot and have had many different bikes.

what i recommend my friends asking your ?? is look used, like on craigs list. MTB is like everything else the guys want the new bike every year. so that means you can score a 1200$ bike for your 500$ that is a way more value for your dollar. if you find a used on look it up on line to see what it cost new.

hawk584
04-29-2012, 10:52 AM
:thumb: In the long run you'll feel better about spending more money up front IMO. As for clip-less pedals I was thinking; wouldn't that be dangerous if you were mountain biking and trying to navigate some rough terrain, lost your balance, needed to put a foot down but couldn't because you were attached to your pedals? On my road bike I've fallen down while clipped :jest: and it didn't feel good; I can only imagine how that would feel on a rocky trail somewhere. I will say however, that being able to pedal with power in a full circle makes being clipped to your bike worth the hassle...



clipless or flats is an endless debate. comes down to personal preference, style of riding, terrain and other factors. i'm a downhiller. i like running flats but if there is a lot of pedaling and not so much technical stuff being clipped in is a good idea. XC racers will typically run clipped. when i was younger i rode clipped in. first few times i ran down the mountain my feet would pop out constantly. i tightened up the tension screws a little bit at a time to where i was comfortable. last time i ran clipped in slid in some mud during a DHrace, the bike went one way and i went another.. thankfully i don't tie my shoes to tight because they went with the bike .. aww how i love dh racing!

Dr Tran
04-29-2012, 04:45 PM
:thumb: In the long run you'll feel better about spending more money up front IMO. As for clip-less pedals I was thinking; wouldn't that be dangerous if you were mountain biking and trying to navigate some rough terrain, lost your balance, needed to put a foot down but couldn't because you were attached to your pedals? On my road bike I've fallen down while clipped :jest: and it didn't feel good; I can only imagine how that would feel on a rocky trail somewhere. I will say however, that being able to pedal with power in a full circle makes being clipped to your bike worth the hassle...

That was my point with the clipless pedals in mtn biking :lol: get used to the feel of it first, then get brave by strapping in haha.

myk
04-30-2012, 02:24 AM
I had just finished a lap at the track, and I was coasting to my car to get water and stuff. I was so exhausted that I tried to get off of the bike without unlocking my shoes and......down I went! So much for getting used to it, lol...

ranman02ta
04-30-2012, 06:07 AM
I had just finished a lap at the track, and I was coasting to my car to get water and stuff. I was so exhausted that I tried to get off of the bike without unlocking my shoes and......down I went! So much for getting used to it, lol...


lol been there. i was at my first race with my new clip-less shoes. had a tight turn looking at some ladies and on my face i was. foot was locked in.

AnnivSS
04-30-2012, 08:38 AM
Some of the local guys laugh at me for it but IDGAF. I run toe clips with straps. I'll probably end up going clipless but I end up coming off the pedals alot in corners at our local trail. We have one turn thats a big sweeping burmed right hander after a long fast downhill. We affectionally refer to it and mx corner since we all end up sliding the ass end around the corner with the inside foot planted. Its alot of fun lol.

Nite_Hawk
05-02-2012, 12:24 AM
Another good site for used bikes is www.pinkbike.com they are like the craigslist of the bike world.

hawk584
05-02-2012, 02:41 AM
good'ol pinkbike! good place indeed! some young dingbat tried to bash on my vintage 2001 straight8 in the sexiest downhill bike part2 thread because it didn't cost $10k... aww children, not saying i'm not any better at times but sometime they need to educated on where things started to where they are now

brandon2000z
05-09-2012, 09:48 PM
thanks alot guys. narrowed it down to 3 i want. a trek Wahoo or Marlin 29ers or a specialized hardrock sport disc 29er. all of them are around 600 the hard rock is closer to 7 but I'm just going to save a little more.