Street Racing & Kill Stories - Death to HioSSiver!!

03turbo and I was helping cobranotch get ready for the track tomorrow. After we were done we thought we would have a little fun. With 03turbo driving the notch we head out to 'ol Mexico :).
These are dig runs.

I beep it off on the 1st run. We both spin and try to gather it up as quickly as possible with me pulling out a bit. Things were tight goin threw the gears but when the notch got in 4th he came around me. We shut down with the notch out about 1.5 car and pulling.

2nd run I get a good holeshot.....almost to good.....lol I get out on the notch a few lengths and hold it till it comes around me @ 118mph according to my speedo. Notch's car stout and we will be on our way to Mason Dixon the the morning to see how she does.

I figured most of you guys would like to hear a death story on me. :P.......even though I was on the fz6.

Honorable death. Good to see some fellow SRK guys getting some runs in.

Honorable death. Good to see some fellow SRK guys getting some runs in. now theres a bulls eye on the ls6! lol that is if i dont bite off more than i can chew. lol.......03 turbomach can definetly out drive me. so we will have to re run this race in the daylight when i can see

Your gonna be driving when we hit the cars off.....lol. But you should have some good practice in after tomorrow.

LoL, I knew it was too good to be true :bs:






BTW, you misspelled your own screen name in the title of the thread.

My puter puked so it's gettin repaired. Hard to pick it up on it typing on the phone..

So for comparisons sake, what do you think it will run?


I take it is tuned now also, what kind of numbers did it put down?

HAHA good stuff.

So for comparisons sake, what do you think it will run?


I take it is tuned now also, what kind of numbers did it put down? It made 458hp 474tq... I hope to see 11.40s atleast.

Who all is going? I may bring the little one up to watch

Nice job Nathan on dyno numbers. I told Phil it would do 460.

Hio must be ready for therapy after losing to a fox...

Nice job Nathan on dyno numbers. I told Phil it would do 460.

Hio must be ready for therapy after losing to a fox...thanks, at least it got a hiho kill before it died. even if it wasnt the camaro

Those are solid numbers ;)


At that rwhp, it should run 10's in a Fox Body.

thanks, at least it got a hiho kill before it died. even if it wasnt the camaro

What a kick in the nuts. Sorry man

What happened?

Nice job Nathan on dyno numbers. I told Phil it would do 460.

Hio must be ready for therapy after losing to a fox...
Yea...... I woke to a nightmare of what I thoughtwas blower whine last night. Turned out it was just a cat in heat......lol
What happened?

We think it spun a bearing.

Yea...... I woke to a nightmare of what I thoughtwas blower whine last night. Turned out it was just a cat in heat......lol


We think it spun a bearing.


What oil was in the motor and have you checked to see what the oil level is?

What oil was in the motor and have you checked to see what the oil level is?
mobil 1 5w20 and full

Spun a bearing already? That fkn sucks.

Too thin of oil IMO

Too thin of oil IMO

Agreed, I'm using a 20W-30 mobil 1 full synthetic in my motor.. Expensive but not as expensive as replacing the engine..

Agreed, I'm using a 20W-30 mobil 1 full synthetic in my motor.. Expensive but not as expensive as replacing the engine..
my motor was extremely close to stock. so i run what is factory recomended. it has tight bearing clearence from the factory. to thick of oil can hurt it.

my motor was extremely close to stock. so i run what is factory recomended. it has tight bearing clearence from the factory. to thick of oil can hurt it.

maybe so. I called Katec, Lingenfelte and Mast motorsports and talk to there engineers regarding what they use in there racec engines and when they told me Mobile 1 20W-30 I was sold!!

A friend of mine runs a turbo mod motor in his Fox Body and told me that when he leans on the tune too much it will eat a rod bearing due to the rod bearing having so little surface area to absorb the shock.

He drops the pan, replaces the bearings and backs his tune up.

I always run Motorcraft 5W-20 in my car. I was told by a engineer many years ago that it is a very good oil.

A friend of mine runs a turbo mod motor in his Fox Body and told me that when he leans on the tune too much it will eat a rod bearing due to the rod bearing having so little surface area to absorb the shock.

He drops the pan, replaces the bearings and backs his tune up.

I always run Motorcraft 5W-20 in my car. I was told by a engineer many years ago that it is a very good oil.thanks heater! thats the way i look at it. the guys that designed theese things know far more than us ? thats why i went with fords weight. i was gonna use motorcraft but went full synthetic. my tune is 12.0 a/f across the board after 2k rpm. it looks as if he didnt tune below 2k rpm.... and it did have a hicup at 1500 rpm if you brought the rpms up slow

Nathan Dan has pulled his. Its an 04.
Ill find out how much he wants for it. Has a cracked ringland. 44k on it....

thanks heater! thats the way i look at it. the guys that designed theese things know far more than us ? thats why i went with fords weight. i was gonna use motorcraft but went full synthetic. my tune is 12.0 a/f across the board after 2k rpm. it looks as if he didnt tune below 2k rpm.... and it did have a hicup at 1500 rpm if you brought the rpms up slow



12.0 is too lean for these engines...especially on a dyno that doesn't properly load the engine.

From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.

Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.

I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap ;) ).

maybe so. I called Katec, Lingenfelte and Mast motorsports and talk to there engineers regarding what they use in there racec engines and when they told me Mobile 1 20W-30 I was sold!!

They recommended this for the LSx platform? Put 10w 30 mobil 1 in my car and it seems to have a bit more of valvetrain noise and lower oil pressure. Hows your car react to the 20w 30?

12.0 is too lean for these engines...especially on a dyno that doesn't properly load the engine.

From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.

Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.

I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap ;) ).makes sense. i hot laped it to.

probly 10 minute intervals

my motor was extremely close to stock. so i run what is factory recomended. it has tight bearing clearence from the factory. to thick of oil can hurt it.

No....do some research on why 5w20 is recommended from the factory first. I assure you it's not because of your tight bearing clearances lol.

Oh and Rotella here for all my cars.

alot of times on a motor with tight clearences it will starve the top half if 15w40 is used. why didnt you design engines and oil if your beter at theese than the engineer? and whats your opinion on the 12.0 af?

No....do some research on why 5w20 is recommended from the factory first. I assure you it's not because of your tight bearing clearances lol.

Fuel mileage is my guess....

12.0 is too lean for these engines...especially on a dyno that doesn't properly load the engine.

From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.

Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.

I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap ;) ).

^^^^ This. I already told nathan I didn't like what the tuner did. 11.5s to 11.8s on the dyno with any cars other than N/a. This sucks and I would never wish this on anyone. Putting that kind of money in a car and it does this. Sucks man.


Btw I run Mobil delvac 15w40 in my mach. never uses any oil and I never have any issues.

They recommended this for the LSx platform? Put 10w 30 mobil 1 in my car and it seems to have a bit more of valvetrain noise and lower oil pressure. Hows your car react to the 20w 30?

I've got mobil in my car now and that's after using 10w30 and 5w30 amsoil. The 5w30 amsoil is quieter than 10w30 mobil...Mobil doesn't seem quite up to par with what it used to be.

you guys can run your 15w40. i have in everything else i owned. how ever if i spend the money i have on a factory BUILT engine i wouldnt wanna run anything but whats recomended.

alot of times on a motor with tight clearences it will starve the top half if 15w40 is used. why didnt you design engines and oil if your beter at theese than the engineer? and whats your opinion on the 12.0 af?

:jest:You can run pure water for all I care. And run 12.0 on a PD blower car if you want also. :jest: :jest:

so fuckin funny huh? karmas a bitch keep running your mouth. 1. i trust fords oil recomendations over yours anyhow. 2. i told my tuner to be safe. i didnt get what i asked for. 3. that 15w40 didnt keep your poser 99 cobra from blowing up did it?

so fuckin funny huh? karmas a bitch keep running your mouth. 1. i trust fords oil recomendations over yours anyhow. 2. i told my tuner to be safe. i didnt get what i asked for. 3. that 15w40 didnt keep your poser 99 cobra from blowing up did it?

poser 99 Cobra huh? :lol: Atleast mine came with a Cobra motor. Seems yours is more of a poser than mine. ;)

fuck off kevin! not in mood for your bullshit!

so i texted the tuner and asked what my air fuel was and he said 11.7! the graph looks dead on 12.0. any explinations?

Did you not watch the ratio was as he was making the pull? 11.7 isn't ideal IMO but not terrible either. Plug heat range used? Was the motor built or is it a crate? I wouldn't start pointing fingers right away.

makes sense. i hot laped it to.

You really shouldn't do that..especially with a Eaton car. I always wait around 45 minutes before making another pass in mine. Hot lapping isn't good for the engine or the clutch.







^^^^ This. I already told nathan I didn't like what the tuner did. 11.5s to 11.8s on the dyno with any cars other than N/a. This sucks and I would never wish this on anyone. Putting that kind of money in a car and it does this. Sucks man.


Yeah, 11.5 on a dyno jet is nice and safe. I've seen a lot of tuners shoot for 11.7 on a dyno jet and that is kinda risky IMO.




fuck off kevin! not in mood for your bullshit!


Easy now, my name is Kevin too :cool:

Did you not watch the ratio was as he was making the pull? 11.7 isn't ideal IMO but not terrible either. Plug heat range used? Was the motor built or is it a crate? I wouldn't start pointing fingers right away.60,000 mile termi swap with a pulley. tr6s gaped at .35
You really shouldn't do that..especially with a Eaton car. I always wait around 45 minutes before making another pass in mine. Hot lapping isn't good for the engine or the clutch.









Yeah, 11.5 on a dyno jet is nice and safe. I've seen a lot of tuners shoot for 11.7 on a dyno jet and that is kinda risky IMO.







Easy now, my name is Kevin too :cool:poor guy.

60,000 mile termi swap with a pulley. tr6s gaped at .35


Well no telling what was done to it prior. Possible bad gas combined with tune. Hot lapping it with the air to fuel ratio it has. etc...

Well no telling what was done to it prior. Possible bad gas combined with tune. Hot lapping it with the air to fuel ratio it has. etc...
definetly not gas. Hot laping it probly hurt it pretty bad. it was tuned with cool down times. i did 5 passes probly 10 minutes apart with out shutting it off. but i wasnt working it hard. the track was to shitty to.one 1.9 60ft. rest were 2.0,2.1

and honestly my driving curently blows.

I told you before, you need to look into the killer chiller mod I think. Also keep the AFR around 11.5 or lower IMHO. With a heaton I'd rather be safe than sorry. Fix the motor and bust the LS6's ass and give him a reason to swap in the bigger motor. Also stick to 5w30 or 10w30 ;)

Dan has killer chiller. Its pretty neat and works great Nathan...

Oh and Rotella here for all my cars.

On that Michael Yount stuff? :)

Mobil1 10W-30 here.

I've also heard Killer Chillers are good for the money. http://www.killerchiller.com/system_2_page.htm

Are you sure that it's knocking and not head tick?

I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.

I really hate it for you.

thanks heater! thats the way i look at it. the guys that designed theese things know far more than us ? thats why i went with fords weight. i was gonna use motorcraft but went full synthetic. my tune is 12.0 a/f across the board after 2k rpm. it looks as if he didnt tune below 2k rpm.... and it did have a hicup at 1500 rpm if you brought the rpms up slow

So very true but I am not using anything factory in my motor. I have clevete rod and main bearings in my motor. A guy I know built a 402ci LS2 for his vette and had the same issues. He spun a rob bearing after a months of having the motor built and come to find out the builder used factory bearings in his motor instead of after market..

12.0 is too lean for these engines...especially on a dyno that doesn't properly load the engine.

From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.

Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.

I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap ;) ).

Geoff from EPS had my car for 2 weeks tuning it.. Did a great job though..

They recommended this for the LSx platform? Put 10w 30 mobil 1 in my car and it seems to have a bit more of valvetrain noise and lower oil pressure. Hows your car react to the 20w 30?

It reacts just fine. With the thinner oil I normally have about 60psi oil pressure and with the heavy oil I have 40-50psi but when I rump the gas it goes up to about 60-70psi..
Now remember this is a built racing engine not a factory engine. There's differences in the tolerance of the motor..

[QUOTE=Heater;16255590]Are you sure that it's knocking and not head tick?

I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.

I really hate it for you.[/QvUOTE] I was wondering the same. i drained the oil last night and it had aluminum shavings in it. so either way it has to come out of the car.

Yeah, aluminum shavings are bad :(


What are your plans?

so fuckin funny huh? karmas a bitch keep running your mouth. 1. i trust fords oil recomendations over yours anyhow. 2. i told my tuner to be safe. i didnt get what i asked for. 3. that 15w40 didnt keep your poser 99 cobra from blowing up did it?

Yeah, aluminum shavings are bad :(


What are your plans?

Build a prostock engine for that bad boy!!! :burn:

Yeah, aluminum shavings are bad :(


What are your plans? sell it to you :bomb:

Yeah, aluminum shavings are bad :(


What are your plans?

Build a prostock engine for that bad boy!!! :burn:
I dont know all bullshit aside , i have a kid on the way. i guess ill pull it out look at it. if the crank needs cut more than .010 ill put a aluminator short block in it. If it cleans up real easy than ill just fix the crank/rod and put it back together.

I would upgrade the pistons, put billet oil pump gears in it, do the head cooling mod and you will be Golden.

I dont know all bullshit aside , i have a kid on the way. i guess ill pull it out look at it. if the crank needs cut more than .010 ill put a aluminator short block in it. If it cleans up real easy than ill just fix the crank/rod and put it back together.

I know the feeling man. When I was putting my car back together and my girl was about to have our daughter I kept having all sorts of issues with my build. Remember I had a brand new block that had a crack in it? Not only that but I had to shell out more $$$ for a new block, gaskets and machine work. The new block was $1200.00, gasket kit for my motor, $400.00, new freeze plugs, $70.00, machine work $600.00, New rings, $400.00.. Then I didn't have the time to work on it and I couldn't leave the car at my buddies shop so I had another friend pull the motor for me for $700.00. This was to pull and reinstall.

I would upgrade the pistons, put billet oil pump gears in it, do the head cooling mod and you will be Golden. it has head cooling mod. whats best brand oil pump for it?

Triangle Speed Shop makes the most expensive, and Melling makes the gears where you just replace them and keep the stock housing.

Stay away from MMR, their reputation has gone to shit.


A lot of guys like the Melling. If you decide to go that route, this is the one to get:

http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa318/fishfinding/Cobra/?action=view&current=02132012906.jpg

Triangle Speed Shop makes the most expensive, and Melling makes the gears where you just replace them and keep the stock housing.

Stay away from MMR, their reputation has gone to shit.


A lot of guys like the Melling. If you decide to go that route, this is the one to get:

http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa318/fishfinding/Cobra/?action=view&current=02132012906.jpg
ive always used melling in my sbfs. this is my first mod motor.

ill put a aluminator short block in it.

They are being discontinued. I couldn't care less...never liked them. BTW don't ever buy anything from MMR. Thats just my opinion obviously...

I use Melling oil pumps also in my builds.


I talked to some friends that are more educated about mod motors than me and they wanted to know if you pedalled the car (slick track)?

They said that if you pedal one with a stock oil pump, it damages the oil pump gears and cause loss of pressure. I knew that the gears in the stock pump couldn't take a lot of shock, but didn't know that pedalling a car was enough shock to hurt them.

I use Melling oil pumps also in my builds.


I talked to some friends that are more educated about mod motors than me and they wanted to know if you pedalled the car (slick track)?

They said that if you pedal one with a stock oil pump, it damages the oil pump gears and cause loss of pressure. I knew that the gears in the stock pump couldn't take a lot of shock, but didn't know that pedalling a car was enough shock to hurt them. et drag radial.... i pedaled the fuck out of it it was spinning 3rd and early 4th at over 100mph. they perepped the first 60ft the the back half was slick as hell. every thing they are saying lines up perfect. i did pedal during burn out also. good lookin out heater you dont know how much i apreciate it...........stoppy reason for aluminator (short block) wich is currently still a go. is to get 70 lbs off my front end while im down. and yea the long block is discontinued as will be the short in next few months

Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a j

my plan is as of now is to put a melling oil pump in it. have my engine builder to set everything at loose end of factory spec. and then it will be safe to run a little thicker oil and maybe an aditive. this is as long as the cranks not trashed. it will get a 7qt pan. and i will port and polish oil returns

Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a j mine is f*****g j**K!!! how ever its never going back to pushrod again. fuck that and fuck a coyote. blows up 1 more time lsx!

I use Melling oil pumps also in my builds.


I talked to some friends that are more educated about mod motors than me and they wanted to know if you pedalled the car (slick track)?

They said that if you pedal one with a stock oil pump, it damages the oil pump gears and cause loss of pressure. I knew that the gears in the stock pump couldn't take a lot of shock, but didn't know that pedalling a car was enough shock to hurt them.

What bullshit :rolleyes:


No offense to you Heater

What bullshit :rolleyes:


No offense to you HeaterNo offense to you stoppy but this thing is a whole different animal than a mach motor or 99 with a centrifugal. unless you mean mod in general.

and i looked through the link heater posted on the pump. if you look through that photobucket there are pics of damaged oil pump. i think thats what it is. and definetly damaged bearings

Please elaborate on MMR being shit? I've NEVER heard this...and have heard the opposite, however I have never owned a mod motor.

my plan is as of now is to put a melling oil pump in it. have my engine builder to set everything at loose end of factory spec. and then it will be safe to run a little thicker oil and maybe an aditive. this is as long as the cranks not trashed. it will get a 7qt pan. and i will port and polish oil returns

It is safe to run thicker oil now. LOL I'm telling you man...run you some 5w30 or 10w30 and you will be fine. Want me to quote some people that work high up in Ford as to why Ford uses 5w20 in the 4v and alot of other Ford motors? It has NOTHING to do with safety or performance and everything to do with emissions and $$$$. An oil pump gear isn't a bad idea though. I wouldn't go with Melling (I've also owned them). The 4v gears have bad machine marks in them and I know of one I can get for cheaper that is done better. 7qt pan is also NOT needed. You probably aren't even reving the motor above 6500 am I right? You are over thinking this problem and looking to blame the motor when that isn't the cause.

92cobranotch why the attitude toward a pushrod motor in the notch? Please oh Please don't drop a GM motor in that car...(cue HiO to come in with LS dickswinging).

No offense to you stoppy but this thing is a whole different animal than a mach motor or 99 with a centrifugal. unless you mean mod in general.

Same shit as started in 96. (hell actually 93) Powdered oil pump gears. Never have I heard of "pedalling" causing it to break. :lol:

Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a j


Honestly, when I bought my Cobra I didn't know that much about the engines other than they were forged from the factory. After the first 3 months, I couldn't believe how many quirks they have. They are very finicky and have to be treated more differently than anything I have ever owned.


I would not change the tolerances when you have the engine builder put the engine back together. Just run what Ford recommends (Motorcraft 5W-20) and you will be ok.

Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a j

HiO why don't you go have your friend powershift from 3rd to 2nd again or whatever he did the first time so you can run a 427 in your car and still call it stock.

I've never been much fan of the 03/04 Cobra motor. Iron block...crappy blower...powdered rods...crappy HE setup...low compression. Just not my cup of tea.

:poke: Shitty heads and cams, too.

I've never been much fan of the 03/04 Cobra motor. Iron block...crappy blower...powdered rods...crappy HE setup...low compression. Just not my cup of tea. your mach 1 has same heads with different cams. and your mach 1 is the one with powdered rods

your mach 1 has same heads with different cams. and your mach 1 is the one with powdered rods

I got different cams? :confused:

And I have more compression and much less weight. Thus unless the Cobra has a pulley I can beat one from a dig with the same size motor while being NA

I got different cams? :confused:

And I have more compression and much less weight. Thus unless the Cobra has a pulley I can beat one from a dig with the same size motor while being NA:rotflmao: maybe if the oil pump goes out. mod to mod you wont. and 03 cobra rods are forged steel fyi. machs have poopy powdered and poser 99s are powdered.

Honestly, when I bought my Cobra I didn't know that much about the engines other than they were forged from the factory. After the first 3 months, I couldn't believe how many quirks they have. They are very finicky and have to be treated more differently than anything I have ever owned.


I would not change the tolerances when you have the engine builder put the engine back together. Just run what Ford recommends (Motorcraft 5W-20) and you will be ok. are they still finiky after a good pump. i dont think it would hurt to hone the piston to wall clearence a little. thats if i keep using stock pistons.

I got different cams? :confused:

And I have more compression and much less weight. Thus unless the Cobra has a pulley I can beat one from a dig with the same size motor while being NA

Yessir, my bro had a 99 with LT's, O/R X, shifter, JLT CAI, 4.11's, and SFC's and could beat stock 03/04's at the track.

Yessir, my bro had a 99 with LT's, O/R X, shifter, JLT CAI, 4.11's, and SFC's and could beat stock 03/04's at the track.
why not compare to a 03-04 with same mods. come on idiots

why not compare to a 03-04 with same mods. come on idiots

You're missing the point, nevermind.

:rotflmao: maybe if the oil pump goes out. mod to mod you wont. and 03 cobra rods are forged steel fyi. machs have poopy powdered and poser 99s are powdered.

Mod for mod? LOL Mod for mod a Mach would CRUSH a 03 Cobra. It's simple...let me bolt on a Eaton then lets see what happens stock for stock. ;)

why not compare to a 03-04 with same mods. come on idiots

Why the name calling? :confused:

You're the idiot that cannot keep a FORGED 450rwhp motor together longer than a week. :rotflmao: Hell my poser 99 Cobra motor with the stock powdered oil pump gear along with powdered rods laster longer and went into the 10's. My 95 with the stock motor and turbo also went longer...ah you know not worth it. :jest:

I think you should just get a Camaro and let Hiho hold your hand so you don't end up hurting yourself.

idiot

Why the name calling? :confused:

You're the idiot that cannot keep a FORGED 450rwhp motor together longer than a week. :rotflmao: Hell my poser 99 Cobra motor with the stock powdered oil pump gear along with powdered rods laster longer and went into the 10's. My 95 with the stock motor and turbo also went longer...ah you know not worth it. :jest:

I think you should just get a Camaro and let Hiho hold your hand so you don't end up hurting yourself.

idiot
this shows how smart you are. i said mod for mod and you want to compare a mach with a blower last time i checked cobras came stock with them. you wanna mod up to compete. with a stock car. stupidity is thinking your cool being full bolt on to out run a stock car. point proved now dont waste anymore of my time with your lame ass mach 1 junky cheap shit.

I see that West Verginia IQ is starting to shine. I'd take my lame ass Mach 1 junky cheap shit car over your 1988 Mustang with a iron block paper weight any day. :lol:

and next time be sure wich car has the junk powdered rods before you speak of them to then realize its your two cars that have the shit your bashin not mine

done wasting my breathe.

and next time be sure wich car has the junk powdered rods before you speak of them to then realize its your two cars that have the shit your bashin not mine

Reading skilled from WV folks :jest:

I've never been much fan of the 03/04 Cobra motor. Iron block...crappy blower...powdered rods...crappy HE setup...low compression. Just not my cup of tea.
you listed all this bashing my motor. and it doesnt even have powdered rods. 03-04 cobra rods are forged steel. dont waste your time trying to back pedal what you said that was completely wrong. you showed you dont know much about them . much less judge them

you listed all this bashing my motor. and it doesnt even have powdered rods. 03-04 cobra rods are forged steel. dont waste your time trying to back pedal what you said that was completely wrong. you showed you dont know much about them . much less judge them

Quote me where I said that. You need to put that shovel down bud. I think you're already 6 feet deep.

Maybe this will make everyone including HIO feel better.....


http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x241/Mike92LX/stang-1.jpg

How bout this quote from Mike Riley since I obviously have no idea what I talk about :lol:

"Moving to 5w20 was driven by ... CAFE requirements. The company believes the switch to lighter viscosity 5w20 oils will reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 190,000 metric tons a year and reduce US fuel consumption by over 21,000,000 gallons a year."

Ford did the switch from 5w30 in 1999 to 5w20 in yep you guessed it...identical 4v motors because of this. NO WAIT! It was because of the tight clearances in the motor. :lol:

Why shouldn't you use 5w20? Wait for it....wait for it...

























connecting rod bearings. But really any place that is metal to metal and relies on oil lubrication will suffer. Now IMHO a PERFECT oil for a 4v is the good ol 5w30. But run what you want. Heater PM me if you want more info on this.

Quote me where I said that. You need to put that shovel down bud. I think you're already 6 feet deep.

you see where i quoted it or do i need to quote it again? keep jerkin to oil weights snappy lube

I've never been much fan of the 03/04 Cobra motor. Iron block...crappy blower...powdered rods...crappy HE setup...low compression. Just not my cup of tea.
there it is one more time lmao..... need to borow a shovel?

I've never been much fan of the 03/04 Cobra motor. Iron block...crappy blower...powdered rods...crappy HE setup...low compression. Just not my cup of tea.


You are approaching Hio's blind homerism with that statement.


I'm not going to argue oil weights with you because it's a matter of opinion. No offense Stoppy, but just let it go.


Nathan, if my motor shit the bed tomorrow, I would replace the pistons with a better grade quality (ie.Diamond), and that is all that I would replace in the rotating assembly since the rest is very strong. They make a stock replacement that would only require a hone IIRC.

:hail:Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a jlol best post in this thread.

to the OP: all kidding aside, that sucks. i've always thought those motors were bullet proof and not near as tempermental as they apparently are. however, despite the fact i don't personally know you (and this is the interwebz), i refuse to be an utter cockbite about your situation. i hope everything comes together and works out the best it can.

you ford boys are a bunch of fucking assholes hahaha.

HiO why don't you go have your friend powershift from 3rd to 2nd again or whatever he did the first time so you can run a 427 in your car and still call it stock.

How about a big fuuuuuuu Q lmao I'd be glad to but I don't drive other people's cars anymore. Great lesson learned :gtfo:

there it is one more time lmao..... need to borow a shovel?

DOH! Brain fart for the week. You caught me...now hold onto that for dear life. ;)

:hail:lol best post in this thread.

to the OP: all kidding aside, that sucks. i've always thought those motors were bullet proof and not near as tempermental as they apparently are. however, despite the fact i don't personally know you (and this is the interwebz), i refuse to be an utter cockbite about your situation. i hope everything comes together and works out the best it can.

you ford boys are a bunch of fucking assholes hahaha.


They are very tough engines, but the temperamental part comes in with:

Tuners leaning on them too hard trying to get big dyno numbers.
Hot lapping them at the drag strip.
High speed 5th gear pulls over heat the drivers side head.
Owners manual says 6 qt.s of oil, but it takes between 6 1/2 - 7 qt.s
Too heavy weight of oil will eat a bearing.

I'm not going to argue oil weights with you because it's a matter of opinion. No offense Stoppy, but just let it go.


It isn't opinion, it's a fact. Multiple engineers from Ford have claimed this.

i've always thought those motors were bullet proof and not near as tempermental as they apparently are.

They are not tempermental at all nor are they fragile. Just like any motor forged or not you can destroy it if you don't know what you are doing. No offense to the OP.

You are approaching Hio's blind homerism with that statement.


I'm not going to argue oil weights with you because it's a matter of opinion. No offense Stoppy, but just let it go.


Nathan, if my motor shit the bed tomorrow, I would replace the pistons with a better grade quality (ie.Diamond), and that is all that I would replace in the rotating assembly since the rest is very strong. They make a stock replacement that would only require a hone IIRC.lol he rolled out after asking me to quote and i delivered. anyway now that thats over. heater i apreciate you going out kof your way to help. diamonds are cheaper than most and a good piston. ask the guys that have seen the pumps go out if there are visual signs? im pulling the swap as we speak

They are not tempermental at all nor are they fragile. Just like any motor forged or not you can destroy it if you don't know what you are doing. No offense to the OP.
yep i killed it using factory recomended oil. now go set in the corner and be humble after earliers statement. and pokin at my edumication. schooled

I want to say that I was told that if the gears aren't busted up; they could be scarred or cracked and cause oil pump failure.

They are very tough engines, but the temperamental part comes in with:

Tuners leaning on them too hard trying to get big dyno numbers.
Hot lapping them at the drag strip.
High speed 5th gear pulls over heat the drivers side head.
Owners manual says 6 qt.s of oil, but it takes between 6 1/2 - 7 qt.s
Too heavy weight of oil will eat a bearing.
if i personally fucked it up. yes maybe hot laping. but if the oil pump gears are visually damaged fords weak pump is to blame. it has a dual pass he and head cooling mod. and 50 degree weather i was running in. oh well either way lesson learned no more hot laping

yep i killed it using factory recomended oil. now go set in the corner and be humble after earliers statement. and pokin at my edumication. schooled

It sure couldn't have been the metal shavings in the oil from your lean mean 12.0 badass dyno tune could it have been?

And it's "sit" not "set". You set a table. You sit in a corner. Now go get you some more WV schooleding. :jest:

:hail:lol best post in this thread.

to the OP: all kidding aside, that sucks. i've always thought those motors were bullet proof and not near as tempermental as they apparently are. however, despite the fact i don't personally know you (and this is the interwebz), i refuse to be an utter cockbite about your situation. i hope everything comes together and works out the best it can.

you ford boys are a bunch of fucking assholes hahaha.

No, it's just a matter of being honest and not sitting around circle-jerking each other like a bunch of LS1 owners I know :lol:

lazerlemon, I wasn't trying to call you out! Just taking a stab at HiO :lol:

Kevin, you're wasting your time correcting their grammar shit. The word incorrigible applies here.

It sure couldn't have been the metal shavings in the oil from your lean mean 12.0 badass dyno tune could it have been?

And it's "sit" not "set". You set a table. You sit in a corner. Now go get you some more WV schooleding. :jest:or could it be that the oil pump took a dump? we will know soon. and i didnt tune it i asked for a safe tune and trusted a guy to keep it safe? isnt that qhat i paid for?ill take pics of oil pump and post them if it was cause

How about a big fuuuuuuu Q lmao I'd be glad to but I don't drive other people's cars anymore. Great lesson learned :gtfo:

Bullshit you are driving mine. When you destroy it I want an LS9 since thats all you can get from GM!!!!

or could it be that the oil pump took a dump? we will know soon. and i didnt tune it i asked for a safe tune and trusted a guy to keep it safe? isnt that qhat i paid for?ill take pics of oil pump and post them if it was cause

You pay the guy to tune the car and they have you SIGN a legal document stating anything that goes wrong with the car, they are not held responsible. Christ man are you that dumb to just let them go crazy and do whatever? No red flags went off with the lean readings? Did you even notice it? What about the IAT temps? Did you care to watch them? Why do you think the oil pump went south? Just magically pooped because it was powdered metal?

You know not really trying to be mean (even though you called me an idiot lol) but I gave you way more credit than I think I should have before. I thought you were a littler smarter than you seem to be. :( Good luck with the new build man, I know it sucks for you and truely sorry the new motor took a dump. Use this as a learning lesson and soak up as much knowledge as you can between now and when you put the new one in.

You pay the guy to tune the car and they have you SIGN a legal document stating anything that goes wrong with the car, they are not held responsible. Christ man are you that dumb to just let them go crazy and do whatever? No red flags went off with the lean readings? Did you even notice it? What about the IAT temps? Did you care to watch them? Why do you think the oil pump went south? Just magically pooped because it was powdered metal?

You know not really trying to be mean (even though you called me an idiot lol) but I gave you way more credit than I think I should have before. I thought you were a littler smarter than you seem to be. :( Good luck with the new build man, I know it sucks for you and truely sorry the new motor took a dump. Use this as a learning lesson and soak up as much knowledge as you can between now and when you put the new one in.

i never signed shit. was never asked to so shows what you know. and i said please give me a conservative tune. i want it to be really safe. maybe im to trusting but not stupid. i left it in his hands because he knows more than me about tuning. when someone says to me they want a job done a certian way thats how i do it. im a honest guy and expected the same.

i never signed shit. was never asked to so shows what you know. and i said please give me a conservative tune. i want it to be really safe. maybe im to trusting but not stupid. i left it in his hands because he knows more than me about tuning. when someone says to me they want a job done a certian way thats how i do it. im a honest guy and expected the same.

So you went to a shop that tunes cars but doesn't require you to sign a waiver? What shop is this?

You pay the guy to tune the car and they have you SIGN a legal document stating anything that goes wrong with the car, they are not held responsible. Christ man are you that dumb to just let them go crazy and do whatever? No red flags went off with the lean readings? Did you even notice it? What about the IAT temps? Did you care to watch them? Why do you think the oil pump went south? Just magically pooped because it was powdered metal?

You know not really trying to be mean (even though you called me an idiot lol) but I gave you way more credit than I think I should have before. I thought you were a littler smarter than you seem to be. :( Good luck with the new build man, I know it sucks for you and truely sorry the new motor took a dump. Use this as a learning lesson and soak up as much knowledge as you can between now and when you put the new one in.

and dont act like your sorry to hear about it. you laughed in my face. and i wouldnt wish or laugh at my worst enemy if this happened to them. shows what kind of person you are. i have zero respect for you. almost feel bad for when karma shows up.

Anyone who said they don't feel bad about what happened is a liar or doesn't have a human heart, but in reality you sorta got snappy with Kevin before he said anything that could be considered laughing in your face.

Try to be optimistic in the situation, though, the hardest part is over (wiring and all that fitment bullshit), so even if you need a new motor, you just have to drop it in.

So you went to a shop that tunes cars but doesn't require you to sign a waiver? What shop is this?
if your really interested you will find it in here somewhere. how ever im not one to point fingers. there are alot of variables here. he said it was 11.7 when i texted him yesterday. but looks like 12.0 on the sheet. now a.fter your mouth i have nothin else to say. other than i got you a shovel

I'm sending a link to this thread to a few friends of mine that have more modular experience than me.

Posting pics of the tear down would be helpful.



So far this is questions/statements that have been brought up after one of them read the thread.


How many qts of oil was in the motor and how old was it?

10W-30 should be the thickest oil used, anything heavier than that could starve the oil pump.

When you order new parts for the build, add ARP head studs to the list of upgrades.

Bullshit you are driving mine. When you destroy it I want an LS9 since thats all you can get from GM!!!!

I found a great deal on a 4.8 for you :P

I'm sending a link to this thread to a few friends of mine that have more modular experience than me.

Posting pics of the tear down would be helpful.



So far this is questions/statements that have been brought up after one of them read the thread.


How many qts of oil was in the motor and how old was it?

10W-30 should be the thickest oil used, anything heavier than that could starve the oil
When you order new parts for the build, add ARP head studs to the list of upgrades.
oil was new 2 weeks old. 350 miles. 6 or 6 and a half. cant remember. but i know it wasnt 7. it read full after warmed up shut off and rechecked. checked after blow up and was very very slightly less than full mark. like sheet of paper below full. and i will provide pics during tear down. top is unhooked. im hauling it to work tomorow to use the lift to drop out the botom. should be tore down in next few days

I actually run on the lower side of oil capacity. :) 6qts here

6.5qts of ANY brand 5w30 synthetic here. 7100rpms shifts for 12yrs and still have good compression and NO smoke on start up. My motor is the Tracy Lord of racing.

After reading the last 2 pages I will say that in my humble opinion on a FI car 11.5-11.7 AF is ideal. But I don't think the oil ate the motor...most likely it was the tune.

Motors are mainly killed by either RPM or timing.

No way Mark! It was the oil pump gears!!!

No way Mark! It was the oil pump gears!!!

acording to your first post its the oil weight.

HiO why don't you go have your friend powershift from 3rd to 2nd again or whatever he did the first time so you can run a 427 in your car and still call it stock.

The ls6 had some unfinished work to do in the form of fucking up a cobra powered notch back.....lol I have my stock shit working pretty well. I can hot lap the shit out of it, I change the oil when the light tells me to and I can 5th gear pull it all I want.

The 6 is about to under go a minor change or 2.:burn:

I'm not assuming what it is, I'm waiting for the tear down.

acording to your first post its the oil weight.

Why because I said your oil is too thin IMO? :lol:

The ls6 had some unfinished work to do in the form of fucking up a cobra powered notch back.....lol I have my stock shit working pretty well. I can hot lap the shit out of it, I change the oil when the light tells me to and I can 5th gear pull it all I want.

The 6 is about to under go a minor change or 2.:burn:
dont worry you may still get your chance. im working on somethin.

I'm not assuming what it is, I'm waiting for the tear down.me 2! i may have to order a puller for the balancer. im pretty sure its different than all other 4.6s

The ls6 had some unfinished work to do in the form of fucking up a cobra powered notch back.....lol I have my stock shit working pretty well. I can hot lap the shit out of it, I change the oil when the light tells me to and I can 5th gear pull it all I want.

The 6 is about to under go a minor change or 2.:burn:

Change your oil when the light tells you to? Wtf? I figured you'd take better care of your bone stock as is off the lot Camaro. BTW, another member summed it up best that your shit isn't stock...just like you've heard 8394290 times. ;)

Change your oil when the light tells you to? Wtf? I figured you'd take better care of your bone stock as is off the lot Camaro. BTW, another member summed it up best that your shit isn't stock...just like you've heard 8394290 times. ;)
stock engine maybe not stock in a camaro. how ever im afraid it may have been faster than mine. and pretty sure its faster than most mustangs that are local

stock engine maybe not stock in a camaro. how ever im afraid it may have been faster than mine. and pretty sure its faster than most mustangs that are local

Somebody asks him: What's in your Camaro?
His answer: Stock 346.

He knows just as well as everybody on here that he bullshits OUT OF HIS ASS to downplay his weight reduced/faceplated tranny/LS6 vette motor in his Camaro. His car does what it does and is respectable but as I've said many times, I don't respect it/him near as much as I would if he wasn't so damn skeet about it. I know he doesn't give a shit, but when he toots his own horn (again) and says "My stock shit is doing pretty well" or something along those lines, it makes me feel like he has little man syndrome and is trying to convince himself that his 126 car is "stock" just for the sake of being able to claim it.

So when I buy a 96 GT vert and drop an 03 Cobra motor in it, I'll tell people I have a "stock 4.6" under the hood :rolleyes: when one runs 14.8s-15.somethings and one runs 12s (with a decent driver).

how do i edit my profile i cant remember. and i want a sig

this shows how smart you are. i said mod for mod and you want to compare a mach with a blower last time i checked cobras came stock with them. you wanna mod up to compete. with a stock car. stupidity is thinking your cool being full bolt on to out run a stock car. point proved now dont waste anymore of my time with your lame ass mach 1 junky cheap shit.

Mod for mod well this is close and this is not a full bolt-on mach.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7EkqMMmmMM&list=FLyivjksZXsFnaunSlJocXeQ&index=3&feature=plpp_video

I wonder what happens if the cobra takes off that pulley lol :burn:

never mind found it

Mod for mod well this is close and this is not a full bolt-on mach.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7EkqMMmmMM&list=FLyivjksZXsFnaunSlJocXeQ&index=3&feature=plpp_video

I wonder what happens if the cobra takes off that pulley lol :burn:i bet its a full bolt on car vs a stock car at that point. hooooooray who gives a shit run a full bolt on termi against a full bolt on mach. see ya different second bracket at that point

i bet its a full bolt on car vs a stock car at that point. hooooooray who gives a shit run a full bolt on termi against a full bolt on mach. see ya different second bracket at that point

Stock car? So a intake, tune, x-pipe, cat-back cobra is a stock car :jest: Yea i have seen penty of close to full bolt on corbras run bottom 12s at our track def not a sec diffrence there ;)

Stock car? So a intake, tune, x-pipe, cat-back cobra is a stock car :jest: Yea i have seen penty of close to full bolt on corbras run bottom 12s at our track def not a sec diffrence there ;)
thats poor showing for a cobra. keep thinking they are all like that. i didnt watch vid or read mod list. mod for mod cobra kills mach 1. keep it comparable cars. other wise you would be bragging about beating a full bolt on 89 civic

I'll run a 03 Cobra with nothing but gears, intake, x pipe, and catback like myself. Infact I've tried to find one on SVTP locally but couldn't.

I'll run a 03 Cobra with nothing but gears, intake, x pipe, and catback like myself. Infact I've tried to find one on SVTP locally but couldn't.

id love to see it but pulley is always before those mods. if the termi was on same tire as you with same gear and hooked up you would be in trouble. how ever its gonna be impossible to find one comparable. and if you won you bost likely beat the driver not the car

If I came within 2 carlengths of the same car PLUS A SUPERCHARGER, then that would be fucking sad. I should get raped by a 03/04 Cobra with the same mods but I wouldn't. One of the reasons I like the Mach 1 so much.... :nod:

If I came within 2 carlengths of the same car PLUS A SUPERCHARGER, then that would be fucking sad. I should get raped by a 03/04 Cobra with the same mods but I wouldn't. One of the reasons I like the Mach 1 so much.... :nod:
if the cobra hooked with 456s game over for mach 1 more than two cars

thats poor showing for a cobra. keep thinking they are all like that. i didnt watch vid or read mod list. mod for mod cobra kills mach 1. keep it comparable cars. other wise you would be bragging about beating a full bolt on 89 civic

No not really they are decent drivers yellow cobra in vid went 12.0 @ 117-120. I have also seen 11.8 @ 121, 11.9 @ 117 and 12.1 @ 121 all diffrent pullied cobras.

there are quite a few cobras that go 11.50s and faster with these mods. i think unit went 11.20 but thats extremely rare

if the cobra hooked with 456s game over for mach 1 more than two cars

Wonder how many times it could do that. :rotflmao:

i would consider a full bolt on cobra long tubes single blade. upper and lower pulley. intake gear etc etc. not just 1 mod here or there im talkin full bolt ons

there are quite a few cobras that go 11.50s and faster with these mods. i think unit went 11.20 but thats extremely rare

Quite a few bolt-on 4v cars in the 11s too ;)

Wonder how many times it could do that. :rotflmao:
i bet not more than 5back to back. but 1 time is all it takes

stoppy if i could find a mach motor with those real good rods you was talkin about earlier for around 1000 id put it in notch with eaton for summer while i rebuilt my motor

i bet not more than 5back to back. but 1 time is all it takes

So you think ;)

stoppy if i could find a mach motor with those real good rods you was talkin about earlier for around 1000 id put it in notch with eaton for summer while i rebuilt my motor

Drop in a 5.4 Navi motor :judge: NA with some pression and sum camz. Should give ol Heyhoe a good run for his money.

Drop in a 5.4 Navi motor :judge: NA with some pression and sum camz. Should give ol Heyhoe a good run for his money.those dont have those junky powdered rods like termis do they? rofflmao

They have plastic rods :nod:

They have plastic rods :nod:for comparison what does a 12.0 bolt on mach usualy trap?

108.9

108.9 i said a 12.0 bolt on mach. yours traped 108 at much slower et. corect?

Who's to say someone couldn't drive my car or any other Mach 1 with a 108mph trap speed to a much better ET?

Who's to say someone couldn't drive my car or any other Mach 1 with a 108mph trap speed to a much better ET?im not talkin about your car. what does a rainbow bolt on mach1 trap with a 12.0 et on average

Fuck if I know or care. Ask someone that races numbers or someone else's car. I run my car and that's it.

I'm sure Autobot could tell us.

Fuck if I know or care. Ask someone that races numbers or someone else's car. I run my car and that's it.

I'm sure Autobot could tell us.lmao autobot what do they trap?
autobot loves racing record cars did that fucker go to sleep?

I don't know. He randomly shows up in threads concerning Mach 1s then leaves for a couple days.

I don't know. He randomly shows up in threads concerning Mach 1s then leaves for a couple days.
he was always saying record 2v record mach this and that. i asked him what his ran and he didnt know lol....... although i dont know what mine has either other. i do know it has a rod knock and spins over 100mph on a shit track. and out runs hihos bike

Notch you need to change your sig. . . "Was" faster than Hios fz6

Notch you need to change your sig. . . "Was" faster than Hios fz6

Damn dude, right out of the gate just bustin' his balls, although he is hanging onto the powdered rod comment for dear life (Kevin called that one :rotflmao:)

Damn, if I listened to Stoppy I'd be trading my Cobra in on a Mach and think that I was moving up in the world.

Damn, if I listened to Stoppy I'd be trading my Cobra in on a Mach and think that I was moving up in the world.

I can't explain it...I've just never been fond of the 03/04 Cobra. :confused: I almost got a sonic blue one just like yours but backed out. List of things I dislikes:

1st gear ratio
6th gear ratio
seats
silver gauges
whine (I know I know. But I think it sounds like a firetruck)
HEAT
IRS
iron block
low compression
spoiler

likes:

nose, hood, skirts, bumpers
exhaust tone
power potential


As you can see it's just not for me. And I'm not meaning this as a bash! They just aren't my cup of tea. If I had one it would have the Eaton taken off, Mach 1 intake, and turbo. But then what's the point in owning a 03/04 Cobra?

I'd love a Teksid 4.6 with tumble port heads (there are better ones out there but for the $$$$), 96-98 Cobra cams, some compression, and a Mach 1 intake.

My Cobra is the first car that I have owned that I love everything about the factory styling. My only gripe is the dash is kind of dated.




To each his own.

Notch you need to change your sig. . . "Was" faster than Hios fz6
lol be carefull fucker your luck is similar to mine.

It's rare that you hear about those motors eating bearings. Especially with the stock blower and stock crank pulley support cage.

I suspect contamination, or too low of an oil level.

Over the years I've pedaled my car MANY times without issue. I've done 5h gear pulls, sprayed on pump gas, launched of the 2 step, missed the 2 step trigger and rang the thing off the rev limit like it was my 2 step, missed 4th and went down to 2nd bouncing off the limit and wagging the tail, hot lapped it in FLORIDA heat, over heated it because an acorn got wedged in the fan... It wasn't until I hot lapped it with an AF of ~12.6:1 on 21psi of boost and a 75 shot that I finally killed the stock shortblock.

The photobucket pics several pages back were mine. The middle bearings received some bits of what I believe were from the oil pump gears galling the housing. The oil was a bit fuel diluted and the oil level was likely too low for what i was doing. Usually this causes a cam to lockup before any other sign that something is wrong.

Even running lean and detonating you're more likely to butt ring ends chipping the moly, expand a piston into the cylinder wall, torch a piston (all in that order) before you notice any hammering of the rod bearings or pinching off of a ringland.

for a racing motor i set the bearings at .002-.0025 and use nitro 70. just sayin. never a failure.

It's rare that you hear about those motors eating bearings. Especially with the stock blower and stock crank pulley support cage.

I suspect contamination, or too low of an oil level.

Over the years I've pedaled my car MANY times without issue. I've done 5h gear pulls, sprayed on pump gas, launched of the 2 step, missed the 2 step trigger and rang the thing off the rev limit like it was my 2 step, missed 4th and went down to 2nd bouncing off the limit and wagging the tail, hot lapped it in FLORIDA heat, over heated it because an acorn got wedged in the fan... It wasn't until I hot lapped it with an AF of ~12.6:1 on 21psi of boost and a 75 shot that I finally killed the stock shortblock.

The photobucket pics several pages back were mine. The middle bearings received some bits of what I believe were from the oil pump gears galling the housing. The oil was a bit fuel diluted and the oil level was likely too low for what i was doing. Usually this causes a cam to lockup before any other sign that something is wrong.

Even running lean and detonating you're more likely to butt ring ends chipping the moly, expand a piston into the cylinder wall, torch a piston (all in that order) before you notice any hammering of the rod bearings or pinching off of a ringland.Best 60 ft was a1.9 so the car wasnt getting worked hard. should i have been running oil over dipstick full level mark? i did notice the pan is dented. ill have the motor out tonight. i want to see if the dent is bad enough its making contact with the pick up.. our ecu will pull alot of timing based on he coolant temp correct?

Change your oil when the light tells you to? Wtf? I figured you'd take better care of your bone stock as is off the lot Camaro. BTW, another member summed it up best that your shit isn't stock...just like you've heard 8394290 times. ;)

That's what the light is for. How would that be not taking care of it? I don't know how a stock longblock isn't stock. Explain that please.

That's what the light is for. How would that be not taking care of it? I don't know how a stock longblock isn't stock. Explain that please.

Explain it? You drive a 1999 Camaro. Did 99 Camaros come with LS6's?

...and to your question, depending on the light instead of watching the miles and doing it at certain intervals just sort of baffles me.

Explain it? You drive a 1999 Camaro. Did 99 Camaros come with LS6's?

...and to your question, depending on the light instead of watching the miles and doing it at certain intervals just sort of baffles me.

I never said the car was stock. I said the engine is.....try comprehending. Oil life light moniters lots of parameters to detemine.........hmmm......oil life! Seems like a no brainer to me.

Best 60 ft was a1.9 so the car wasnt getting worked hard. should i have been running oil over dipstick full level mark? i did notice the pan is dented. ill have the motor out tonight. i want to see if the dent is bad enough its making contact with the pick up.. our ecu will pull alot of timing based on he coolant temp correct?

A badly dented pan could have bent the pickup but I'm sure you know that.

The dipstick can be misleading. According to the dipstick you're level is fine with as little as 5 qts in the pan. I used to always run 6 qts 10-30 RP, but I think mine was down around 5 & a half qts when it galled the oil pump. There were no signs of brngs spinning and I don't think any of that would have been a problem (as long as bits didn't get up to the cams). I tore the engine apart because the compression numbers were starting to read low. If you look through that photobucket you'll see a scuffed piston, and a microscope pic of a chipped & bent compression ring. I had at least 3 chipped compression rings, and 1 scuffed cylinder which was beginning to turn white (early sign of torch). That's where I came to the conclusion that when you run lean or too much timing, or too hot the chain of events are: Rings expand & butt. Chipping moly. Pistons expand and scuff, and if you keep going you torch a piston.

Now I run 7 & a half qts. You can run 8 without the crank whipping it.

While there is nothing wrong with 5-20 oil (in fact that'll drain out of the heads easier), I like to run 10-30 because it pumps up the lifters and chain tensioners better. The thicker the oil, the longer it stays in the head.

Since you're going through the engine be sure to open up the oil pump and inspect it for galling and cracks in the rotors. Also inspect the cam journals for signs of contaminants. Last thing you want is to put it together and lock a cam snapping your timing chain and possibly cracking your new oil pump...

I like the melling pump because it has an iron housing that shouldn't gall like the stock aluminum pump. Be sure to open up the new pump and run a lint free cloth with some turpentine through it to remove any casting debris. I found 2 visible bits in my melling... Grease the rotors up with assy lube and put it back together.

Now is a good time to upgrade the headbolts. They are "torque to yield" and aren't supposed to be reused. Above 600-650rwhp (assuming a safe tune) they stretch under full load (I say assuming a safe tune because with detonation you'll beat things up at much less power). This can mean pushing coolant under boost, squirming heads which can crack the headbolt bores, and worst case torching.

IMO there is no reason not to put some ARP headstuds in it.

Other things to upgrade:
- Cam bolts to ARP but do not tq past 60ft-lbs using ARP assy lube as you can squish the stock cam bolt washers. There are other options here too such as drilling the cams for a 12mm or 9/16" bolt instead of the stock wimpy 10mm bolt. However, if you go that route you MUST upgrade the stock cam bolt washer.
- Cam bolt washers.
- Timing chain tensioners with the all iron tensioners and grind off the last 4 or 5 teeth from the ratchet lock.
- Side bolts (everybody spends the $50 on MMR but Mcmaster car can supply the same bolt for ~$20)
-Main studs
- All consumables like rings & headgaskets

That's about the bare minimum that I would do on a cheap rebuild. Oil pan, intake, exhaust, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets can be reused as long as they aren't blown from whatever. You can see a pic of my blown intake gasket from where I torqued it down when it was swelled from fuel.

Ultra black RTV the valve cover gaskets around the spark plug holes, the joint where the front cover meets the oil pan & valve covers, in fact I ultra blacked the entire front cover gaskets. Oh and RTV the oil pan gasket where it meets the rear seal cover.

Sorry to hear about your failure. It's really is an odd one.

A badly dented pan could have bent the pickup but I'm sure you know that.

The dipstick can be misleading. According to the dipstick you're level is fine with as little as 5 qts in the pan. I used to always run 6 qts 10-30 RP, but I think mine was down around 5 & a half qts when it galled the oil pump. There were no signs of brngs spinning and I don't think any of that would have been a problem (as long as bits didn't get up to the cams). I tore the engine apart because the compression numbers were starting to read low. If you look through that photobucket you'll see a scuffed piston, and a microscope pic of a chipped & bent compression ring. I had at least 3 chipped compression rings, and 1 scuffed cylinder which was beginning to turn white (early sign of torch). That's where I came to the conclusion that when you run lean or too much timing, or too hot the chain of events are: Rings expand & butt. Chipping moly. Pistons expand and scuff, and if you keep going you torch a piston.

Now I run 7 & a half qts. You can run 8 without the crank whipping it.

While there is nothing wrong with 5-20 oil (in fact that'll drain out of the heads easier), I like to run 10-30 because it pumps up the lifters and chain tensioners better. The thicker the oil, the longer it stays in the head.

Since you're going through the engine be sure to open up the oil pump and inspect it for galling and cracks in the rotors. Also inspect the cam journals for signs of contaminants. Last thing you want is to put it together and lock a cam snapping your timing chain and possibly cracking your new oil pump...

I like the melling pump because it has an iron housing that shouldn't gall like the stock aluminum pump. Be sure to open up the new pump and run a lint free cloth with some turpentine through it to remove any casting debris. I found 2 visible bits in my melling... Grease the rotors up with assy lube and put it back together.

Now is a good time to upgrade the headbolts. They are "torque to yield" and aren't supposed to be reused. Above 600-650rwhp (assuming a safe tune) they stretch under full load (I say assuming a safe tune because with detonation you'll beat things up at much less power). This can mean pushing coolant under boost, squirming heads which can crack the headbolt bores, and worst case torching.

IMO there is no reason not to put some ARP headstuds in it.

Other things to upgrade:
- Cam bolts to ARP but do not tq past 60ft-lbs using ARP assy lube as you can squish the stock cam bolt washers. There are other options here too such as drilling the cams for a 12mm or 9/16" bolt instead of the stock wimpy 10mm bolt. However, if you go that route you MUST upgrade the stock cam bolt washer.
- Cam bolt washers.
- Timing chain tensioners with the all iron tensioners and grind off the last 4 or 5 teeth from the ratchet lock.
- Side bolts (everybody spends the $50 on MMR but Mcmaster car can supply the same bolt for ~$20)
-Main studs
- All consumables like rings & headgaskets

That's about the bare minimum that I would do on a cheap rebuild. Oil pan, intake, exhaust, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets can be reused as long as they aren't blown from whatever. You can see a pic of my blown intake gasket from where I torqued it down when it was swelled from fuel.

Ultra black RTV the valve cover gaskets around the spark plug holes, the joint where the front cover meets the oil pan & valve covers, in fact I ultra blacked the entire front cover gaskets. Oh and RTV the oil pan gasket where it meets the rear seal cover.

Sorry to hear about your failure. It's really is an odd one.
thanks for the insight. i guess im going to run a 7 qt pan with 8 qts of oil

thanks for the insight. i guess im going to run a 7 qt pan with 8 qts of oil

I would just find a dent free stock pan if I were you and run that with 7 & 1/2 to 8 qts.

I would just find a dent free stock pan if I were you and run that with 7 & 1/2 to 8 qts. im very gun shy at this point. i might feel beter when/if i can pin point an exact cause. ill post picks of what i find. im trying to get some tools to get it apart. like follower removal tools. and our motors take a different removal tool than regular 4.6 on the balancer removal right?

I yanked my balancer with a standard cheap balancer puller that I've owned for probably 20 years now.

I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.

I yanked my balancer with a standard cheap balancer puller that I've owned for probably 20 years now.

I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.
i have alldata so it should be good. it showed some funky puller. ill figure that part out. thanks for your help. ill have the motor out tonight and start tear down tomorow night i hope

for comparison what does a 12.0 bolt on mach usualy trap?

Depends but 113 area should get the job done. I do know that a full bolt on mach at your raceweight would have no problems going 11s at 117+

I think I could get it done with less than 113mph trap speed.

A fuul bolt-on mach goin 117....... Yea right. Stoppy would even call BS on that. 113 is a stretch.

I never said the car was stock. I said the engine is.....try comprehending. Oil life light moniters lots of parameters to detemine.........hmmm......oil life! Seems like a no brainer to me.

GMs oil life is not the smartest thing in the world. I don't think it works to bad on your model. Be here lately it has people going 8-10k miles between oil changes. It's not good. I see what happens everyday.

I would hope if it didn't come on you would at least change it every 5k?

I never said the car was stock. I said the engine is.....try comprehending. Oil life light moniters lots of parameters to detemine.........hmmm......oil life! Seems like a no brainer to me.

You refer to your car as "my stock shit" and whatever else. Your setup is not stock at all. You literally dropped a Z06 motor into your Camaro, and you try to act like your shit should be considered just as stock as a Camaro driven off the showroom floor. You're not fooling anybody. Refer to my example about a 96 vert GT dropping in a 03/04 Cobra motor or better yet a new Boss motor (before you start your period about the Cobra motor having a blower). If a guy did that and called it stock I'd laugh my ass off. Anybody can drop in a "stock" motor then and play the games you try to play.

Do you comprehend yet?

Learn to fucking spell already, too. Download Mozilla Firefox with the built in spell checker, and when you see the little squiggly red line under your words, right click them and pick your best guess from the options they give you. I know you're gonna say it's not a grammar forum but fuck there are ways to mask your level of incompetence, and communication by typing is the SOLE way people know (or try to decipher) what the hell you mean or are trying to say. I understand everybody makes a typo sometimes but your entire typing history is a typo.

A fuul bolt-on mach goin 117....... Yea right. Stoppy would even call BS on that. 113 is a stretch.

Not at his weight. 113 a stretch lol

evidently he doesnt care about his spelling. hes not writing a book. so no normal person cares thats not looking for a chance to critisize. get off the grammar bs. as for calling it stock hes talking the motor and who cares anyway its his he paid for it can call it what ever he wants.

evidently he doesnt care about his spelling. hes not writing a book. so no normal person cares thats not looking for a chance to critisize. get off the grammar bs. as for calling it stock hes talking the motor and who cares anyway its his he paid for it can call it what ever he wants.

He can call it stock but that's false, but you're right it is his money.

It's not that I'm a grammar Nazi, I keep my mouth shut most of the time about it, but communication via text is the ONLY way we get through to each other on here...why not do something simple (and FREE) and download a browser like I mentioned so people understand you loud and clear? I'm guilty of a typo just as much as the next guy but damn...

GMs oil life is not the smartest thing in the world. I don't think it works to bad on your model. Be here lately it has people going 8-10k miles between oil changes. It's not good. I see what happens everyday.

I would hope if it didn't come on you would at least change it every 5k?
It usually comes on around 6k. So far so good no reason to change.
You refer to your car as "my stock shit" and what ever else. Your setup is not stock at all. You literally dropped a Z06 motor into your Camaro, and you try to act like your shit should be considered just as stock as a Camaro driven off the showroom floor. You're not fooling anybody. Refer to my example about a 96 vert GT dropping in a 03/04 Cobra motor or better yet a new Boss motor (before you start your period about the Cobra motor having a blower). If a guy did that and called it stock I'd laugh my ass off. Anybody can drop in a "stock" motor then and play the games you try to play.

Do you comprehend yet?

Learn to fucking spell already, too. Download Mozilla Firefox with the built in spell checker, and when you see the little squiggly red line under your words, right click them and pick your best guess from the options they give you. I know you're gonna say it's not a grammar forum but fuck there are ways to mask your level of incompetence, and communication by typing is the SOLE way people know (or try to decipher) what the hell you mean or are trying to say. I understand everybody makes a typo sometimes but your entire typing history is a typo.

Fuck you and your spelling bullshit. If you don't like it don't read my posts and certainly don't quote me. There are forums for that shit and to be honest......I don't give a fuck

As far as my ride and acting like anything.......read the sig dumbass. My mods are there. No games being played here.....just your nutswinging ass hurting about a good running stock longblock. If I called the engine anything other than a bolt-on ls6 I would be lying.

I think I could get it done with less than 113mph trap speed.
You wouldn't want to waist any trap speed.

It usually comes on around 6k. So far so good no reason to change.


Fuck you and your spelling bullshit. If you don't like it don't read my posts and certainly don't quote me. There are forums for that shit and to be honest......I don't give a fuck

As far as my ride and acting like anything.......read the sig dumbass. My mods are there. No games being played here.....just your nutswinging ass hurting about a good running stock longblock.

Your car runs really well, I'll never deny that. I love that I could read your entire response without using Google Translate. Thank you for that :D

...and why would I be "hurting" because your car runs well? :lol: When did I even mention a Ford in any of my responses to you? (on the nutswinging comment). You're like a broken record...someone says something you don't like and it's nutswing this Ford that...get some new material, doll...man you're just all ate up about them Blue Ovals :rotflmao:

A fuul bolt-on mach goin 117....... Yea right. Stoppy would even call BS on that. 113 is a stretch.

Hiho you honestly have no idea what you are talking about.

I see that West Verginia IQ is starting to shine.

West Virginia :lol:

Your car runs really well, I'll never deny that. I love that I could read your entire response without using Google Translate. Thank you for that :D

...and why would I be "hurting" because your car runs well? :lol: When did I even mention a Ford in any of my responses to you? (on the nutswinging comment). You're like a broken record...someone says something you don't like and it's nutswing this Ford that...get some new material, doll...man you're just all ate up about them Blue Ovals :rotflmao:
Several of you guys(mostly the ford crowd) are always bringin it up. It is what it is . It's all in the sig and you still act lime I'm hiding something.
Hiho you honestly have no idea what you are talking about.

Sure I do. I was just at a ford club track rental on sat. Ask notch what the 2 most impressive cars were that day........lmao.....

West Virginia :lol: seriously? you live in utah lol. and what you quoted was were stoppy was wrong. continue on

Ask notch what the 2 most impressive cars were that day........lmao.....
beter ask turbomach, that was horrible day. all i could do was change tampons back to back. i didnt pay attention to anything after rod knock.

seriously? you live in utah lol. and what you quoted was were stoppy was wrong. continue on

Translation please?

How does me living in Utah have anything to do with what I posted?

Translation please?

How does me living in Utah have anything to do with what I posted?
just as bad as w.v.

just as bad as w.v.

Hahaha Calm down son. I wasn't laughing about West Virginia. I was laughing because he made a comment about your West Virginia IQ, but he spelt Virginia wrong.

Besides, Utah is much worst than West Virginia. Trust me.. :lol:

Hahaha Calm down son. I wasn't laughing about West Virginia. I was laughing because he made a comment about your West Virginia IQ, but he spelt Virginia wrong.

Besides, Utah is much worst than West Virginia. Trust me.. :lol:

It sure is alot "worst" :rolleyes: idiot





lol

Sure I do. I was just at a ford club track rental on sat. Ask notch what the 2 most impressive cars were that day........lmao.....

No, you don't.

It sure is alot "worst" :rolleyes: idiot





lol

Thank you so much. I appreciate it "a lot". ;) dumbass.


lol, this is fun.

God you guys never realize when Kevin is playing with you.....

Several of you guys(mostly the ford crowd) are always bringin it up.



Well that's because of the shit you dish out to them, so you kind of have to expect it in return.

ok. motor is out pan is off. i can see the pan hit the pick up tube where the dent is. so far it looks like this could have caused it to oil starve. ill get pics tomorow when i do further disassembly. fuck me cant believe i missed this dent in pan.

ok. motor is out pan is off. i can see the pan hit the pick up tube where the dent is. so far it looks like this could have caused it to oil starve. ill get pics tomorow when i do further disassembly. fuck me cant believe i missed this dent in pan.


Damn, that's crazy that you missed the dent in the oil pan.

Maybe you can get away with replacing the bearings and a new oil pan.

I yanked my balancer with a standard cheap balancer puller that I've owned for probably 20 years now.

I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.

Damn, that's crazy that you missed the dent in the oil pan.

Maybe you can get away with replacing the bearings and a new oil pan.yea so far its looking like it could have been avoided. i want to pull some components off it and pull the rockers/followers off before i flip it up side down and see how bad it is.

God you guys never realize when Kevin is playing with you.....

I know, right? It is fun watching this Jay guy make himself look dumb, though.


Pssssssssssst, I'm pretty sure he spelt Verginia like that on purpose :secret:

ok. motor is out pan is off. i can see the pan hit the pick up tube where the dent is. so far it looks like this could have caused it to oil starve. ill get pics tomorow when i do further disassembly. fuck me cant believe i missed this dent in pan.

wow man that blows!

Hopefully you get it sorted out.

I know, right? It is fun watching this Jay guy make himself look dumb, though.


Pssssssssssst, I'm pretty sure he spelt Verginia like that on purpose :secret:

That would be the expected explanation to try and save face. Please elaborate on me making myself look dumb? I would love to hear it.

That would be the expected explanation to try and save face. Please elaborate on me making myself look dumb? I would love to hear it.

You obviously aren't in this section enough to see that Kevin (Stopsign32v) gets under people's skin on a daily basis and makes comments about West Virginia education to try to get a rise out of a few members here. Do you think he just forgot how to spell Virginia this time?

That's how. Do you think I'd be serious if I spelled Camaro "Camero" out of the blue? ;)

"Camero" is the only way I spell it :usa:

Not bad news. IMO you need to take the oil pump apart and inspect it for galling. And pull the cam caps off and inspect for galling of the bores or scaring of the journals.

Don't want to put it back together and lockup a cam.

Not bad news. IMO you need to take the oil pump apart and inspect it for galling. And pull the cam caps off and inspect for galling of the bores or scaring of the journals.

Don't want to put it back together and lockup a cam.
the more i think about it im not convinced its the pan. from my experience with ohc mercedes they will lock the cam first. because its furthest from pump.

post pics of the bearings. The oil pump could have galled and sent shards of aluminum through the motor. But really, who knows. There's no law when it comes to what will fail first.

post pics of the bearings. The oil pump could have galled and sent shards of aluminum through the motor. But really, who knows. There's no law when it comes to what will fail first.
yea who knows. its like wich came first chicken or egg. ill never know. all i can do is redo botom end. and open every thing else and look. ill try to get it apart tonight after work and post pics

You obviously aren't in this section enough to see that Kevin (Stopsign32v) gets under people's skin on a daily basis and makes comments about West Virginia education to try to get a rise out of a few members here. Do you think he just forgot how to spell Virginia this time?

That's how. Do you think I'd be serious if I spelled Camaro "Camero" out of the blue? ;)

So because I'm not apart of the "clique" around here and don't know everyone, that makes me dumb. Gotcha.

Honestly, if someone were to spell Camaro with an -e-, I wouldn't be surprised. I've seen it misspelled more than once.

So because I'm not apart of the "clique" around here and don't know everyone, that makes me dumb. Gotcha.

Honestly, if someone were to spell Camaro with an -e-, I wouldn't be surprised. I've seen it misspelled more than once.You two grammar bitches belong together. you and snake are perfect match.

post pics of the bearings. The oil pump could have galled and sent shards of aluminum through the motor. But really, who knows. There's no law when it comes to what will fail first. quite a few large pieces in the pan also

So because I'm not apart of the "clique" around here and don't know everyone, that makes me dumb. Gotcha.

Honestly, if someone were to spell Camaro with an -e-, I wouldn't be surprised. I've seen it misspelled more than once.

I didn't say you are dumb, earlier I said you were making yourself LOOK dumb, you seem like an alright guy.

My point is that Stopsign messes with people a lot and his spelling of Virginia was him joking. If you don't think so, agree to disagree.

what the fuck. is this english class or a kill thread?

OP: any updates?

:stupid:what the fuck. is this english class or a kill thread?

OP: any updates?

:stupid:

*****update****** cyl. no. 7 is spun. it sent small pieces into the rods on each side of no. 7
......................other than that the rest of the bearings look brand new. so its really obvious there was no starvation. it had to go lean on 7 from what i can tell. ill have more detail when i get the heads off. hiho will post pics of bearings when he gets his puter fixed....

No more 12.0 AFR plz

No more 12.0 AFR plz exactly definetly tune imo. so im prolly goin 9:1 pistons if they make them exactly 9:1. hiho ported eaton, ported heads ported intake. and if i find a set of 98 cobra cams. budget build. i would think 500 wheel safely like 11.5 a/f
.

Hell yea, now THAT is a plan. And it should make a decent bit more safely. 530 would be my guess. Cobra cams will allow you to rev it a good bit higher. But all this is going to add heat. (see below)









p.s. Killer Chiller

Hell yea, now THAT is a plan.









p.s. Killer Chillerim so fuckin gun shy i want chiseled performance trunk mount he tank and pump used with chiller ....... only good news ive had is. I found out im gonna have a BOY! thank god lol

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r136/HioSSilver/Nathens%20fox%20swap/imagejpeg_2.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r136/HioSSilver/Nathens%20fox%20swap/3.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r136/HioSSilver/Nathens%20fox%20swap/7.jpg

im so fuckin gun shy i want chiseled performance trunk mount he tank and pump used with chiller ....... only good news ive had is. I found out im gonna have a BOY! thank god lol

Congrats man! My little guy is 11 months old now. He is a blast and you will have more fun than you know what to do with. Enjoy him and be the best dad you possibly can be. You never knew a love exist like you are about to find out.

Congrats man! My little guy is 11 months old now. He is a blast and you will have more fun than you know what to do with. Enjoy him and be the best dad you possibly can be. You never knew a love exist like you are about to find out.thanks , wasnt a good time for my car to blow up but ill make the best of it and hope to do a little ls6 ass poundin by late summer / fall

Now I get to port your blower to help you outrun me.....lmao.........my work is never done

Congrats on the kid, man! Also, good you found the problem and this time around it sounds like you have a decent vision of where you wanna go.

Now I get to port your blower to help you outrun me.....lmao.........my work is never donelol why not you have helped me get this close
lol

Congrats on the kid, man! Also, good you found the problem and this time around it sounds like you have a decent vision of where you wanna go.thanks

Now I get to port your blower to help you outrun me.....lmao.........my work is never donecan you imagine if one day i can change my sig to faster than hihos ls6 lol. hahaha your lawn mower faster than notch right now

Yea maybe.....right now I'd like to see your sig say slower than hio's lawnmower....lmao

Yea maybe.....right now I'd like to see your sig say slower than hio's lawnmower....lmao
not funny lol not hapening lol

Congrats on the baby boy coming!


I'm on my phone and it don't like PM's, it wouldn't halfway open your PM. If you can haul your car to Jon Lund, that's what I would do.

Sounds like you've got a great plan to make some power, just hope it's not too expensive of a rebuild.

How about your sig say slower than lazers fifth gen LMAO glad to see you breathing hope back into your build. Like I said I've been there done that and spent god knows how much money just to park my car at hios for 9 months to build it again lol just remember the closer to the edge you build it the more likely shit will fuck up again. My last motor is still running lol

Congrats on the baby boy coming!


I'm on my phone and it don't like PM's, it wouldn't halfway open your PM. If you can haul your car to Jon Lund, that's what I would do.

Sounds like you've got a great plan to make some power, just hope it's not too expensive of a rebuild. well the porting wont be to expensive i hope. most will be home ported. only thing about porting everything up is im afraid it may cause worse lean condition on 7 and 8. As for pistons, fuck that i never wanna tear all this shit off again so its getting them now lol.if budgets to close ill skip cams until later.

How about your sig say slower than lazers fifth gen LMAO glad to see you breathing hope back into your build. Like I said I've been there done that and spent god knows how much money just to park my car at hios for 9 months to build it again lol just remember the closer to the edge you build it the more likely shit will fuck up again. My last motor is still running lol ported blower runs cooler temps. this will help it live until i can afford a real blower.

Keep a look out for 60lb injectors and a bigger MAF instead of cams.

This really sucks dude, if there's anything I could do to help let me know. Just dont tell anybody I helped on a Furd.(spelled that way on purpose for the scholars in here.)

This really sucks dude, if there's anything I could do to help let me know. Just dont tell anybody I helped on a Furd.(spelled that way on purpose for the scholars in here.)not much can be be done at this point :barf:

Keep a look out for 60lb injectors and a bigger MAF instead of cams. yea, no doubt it will peg the meter with a ported blower.