Stereo & Electronics - Subwoofer recommendations for my stealth box?

So I just got my Double D Mods Stealth Box.

Currently I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 (4 ohms) in it.

I'd like to go with 2ohms to get the full potential out of my amp (JL XD700/5) and hopefully get a better speaker also.

I'm looking to change to either:

- JL 10W3 2ohm - I know it fits my box
- Massive Audio TW-10 4 ohm DVC (will wire at 2ohm) - Not sure about fitment

Does anybody have an opinion on which of the two I should do?

you know you can wire the sub different to reduce the load.

I just got mine today and sunk a 10w3v3 4 ohm in it with a 300 watt RMS amp. Man does it hit and sounds clean. It doesnt look like the massive audio sub is recommended for a sealed box (not that it matters entirely.) But I can definitely vouch for the JL.

you know you can wire the sub different to reduce the load.

How would one wire a single 4 ohm SVC at a different load?

i dont remember how my dad did it but we did it to my 12, but you should google it or go to crutch field they digrams on how to wire it to reduce the load

Your 12 was almost certainly dual voice coils.

There is nothing I can do with wiring to change a single voice coil 4 ohm sub into a 2 ohm sub.

i have a 10w6 in my stealth box. thing rocks

i have a 10w6 in my stealth box. thing rocks

same here...love it!

So I just got my Double D Mods Stealth Box.

Currently I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 (4 ohms) in it.

I'd like to go with 2ohms to get the full potential out of my amp (JL XD700/5) and hopefully get a better speaker also.

I'm looking to change to either:

- JL 10W3 2ohm - I know it fits my box
- Massive Audio TW-10 4 ohm DVC (will wire at 2ohm) - Not sure about fitment

Does anybody have an opinion on which of the two I should do?

The Massive will not fit
We sell Massive as well ;)

The 10W3
Arc 10
RE Audio
Hybrid Audio Imagine
is what I would go with if it were me

Let me know if we can help you with one of these

Thanks again for your business with the box purchase

Dennis

I went with the JL 10w3 and stealth box from DoubleD. I love it

jl is not worth the money. GO kicker, or alpine, pioneer TSW champions or RE

jl is not worth the money. GO kicker, or alpine, pioneer TSW champions or RE

oh but it so is. kicker, pioneer and alpine can't compair in the SQ department. sure the Alpine type R is a great bang for buck sub, but they only sound good in a ported box. kicker has no SQ they just get loud and hit low. Pioneer, really? RE makes some nice subs tho but you don't get the same customer service and years of expirence like with JL or even Alpine.

OP a 10w6 is an awesome 10, they really bump for a 10 and can take 1000w rms no problem to get it to really get bumpin. I'm running a 10w6 and HD750 in my vette in a sealed box and it is awesome, I like the SQ over my 10w7's but the w7s really hit still with awesome SQ. but it would be fine on your XD amp. the 10w3 is very similat to the 10w6 just with a bit less excursion and power handeling. a 10w3 can go up to 600w rms and still be happy at any level.


@ double D will an 8w7 fit in that box? that'd be a killer option for these cars.

OP a 10w6 is an awesome 10, they really bump for a 10 and can take 1000w rms no problem to get it to really get bumpin.

i have a alpine pdx 1.600 pushing mine currently. how would a pdx 1.1000 need to be tuned or wired up to run that rms safely?

i have a alpine pdx 1.600 pushing mine currently. how would a pdx 1.1000 need to be tuned or wired up to run that rms safely?

I recently got an SMD DD-1 distortion detector to replace my ancient O-Scope and it works awesome, perfect results everytime. I always use my audiocontrol RTA as well to make sure everthing is right and obviouslly to set the EQ as well.

the misconception is that more power will kill a speakers, when its distortion that kills a speaker. amps rms rating are found when the amp is putting out the most power with 1% total harmonic distortion by CEA 2006 regulation. so a 1000w amp pushing a 600w rms sub, the amp wonr have to work as hard to get the same result which leads to lower distortion and more output because theirs more usable power on hand. so even if you just throw it in there with modest to low gain levels it will be safe as long as you dont turn the deck up pushing distortion from there into the amp.

10" RE SR woofer

I got 2 in my hatch :cheers:

I recently got an SMD DD-1 distortion detector to replace my ancient O-Scope and it works awesome, perfect results everytime. I always use my audiocontrol RTA as well to make sure everthing is right and obviouslly to set the EQ as well.

the misconception is that more power will kill a speakers, when its distortion that kills a speaker. amps rms rating are found when the amp is putting out the most power with 1% total harmonic distortion by CEA 2006 regulation. so a 1000w amp pushing a 600w rms sub, the amp wonr have to work as hard to get the same result which leads to lower distortion and more output because theirs more usable power on hand. so even if you just throw it in there with modest to low gain levels it will be safe as long as you dont turn the deck up pushing distortion from there into the amp.

hmm, might have to make that upgrade. i'll also have to check out that smd dd-1

oh but it so is. kicker, pioneer and alpine can't compair in the SQ department. sure the Alpine type R is a great bang for buck sub, but they only sound good in a ported box. kicker has no SQ they just get loud and hit low. Pioneer, really? RE makes some nice subs tho but you don't get the same customer service and years of expirence like with JL or even Alpine.

OP a 10w6 is an awesome 10, they really bump for a 10 and can take 1000w rms no problem to get it to really get bumpin. I'm running a 10w6 and HD750 in my vette in a sealed box and it is awesome, I like the SQ over my 10w7's but the w7s really hit still with awesome SQ. but it would be fine on your XD amp. the 10w3 is very similat to the 10w6 just with a bit less excursion and power handeling. a 10w3 can go up to 600w rms and still be happy at any level.


@ double D will an 8w7 fit in that box? that'd be a killer option for these cars.

Is the 10W6 larger? It seems like subs with a deep installed depth would be a problem in this particular box.

Also, would I be terribly underpowering it with the JL amp? I could do 4 ohm DVC @ 2ohm total load, but I'd still only be pushing 300W RMS to it.

i am sorry, I do not care about sq, I am getting sub to hit hard, which jl will not hit as hard as kicker, you have not heard the new pioneer so dont even say ne thing

i am sorry, I do not care about sq, I am getting sub to hit hard, which jl will not hit as hard as kicker, you have not heard the new pioneer so dont even say ne thing

Well, as the OP who was asking for advice, I personally do care about SQ.

I can't stand boomy subs. I want it to be tight and precise.

ARC 10 is a great option as well for SQ

Well, as the OP who was asking for advice, I personally do care about SQ.

I can't stand boomy subs. I want it to be tight and precise.

agreed.

you could get an alpine type x, for less than the jl and it would sound better

i am sorry, I do not care about sq, I am getting sub to hit hard, which jl will not hit as hard as kicker, you have not heard the new pioneer so dont even say ne thing

What? saying JL won't hit as hard as kicker is a big bold incorrect statement. People are going to look at this thread for their own ideas and when they read stuff like this is when they get misled. And a single 13w7 on 2kw will hit higher db numbers than a pair of 12" L7's on the same amp, I've been there done that. And yes, I have heard the pioneer, it has terrible SQ.

you could get an alpine type x, for less than the jl and it would sound better

Someone really has a chip on their shoulder for JL. the type x probably won't fit because of the mounting depth. Plus their is no why a type x sounds "better" than even a w3. That type x is so overpriced for what it is, that's why they don't sell and you seldomly hear of someone running one. And that sub would hate being on 300w.

OP the 10w6 does have a much bigger magnet than the w3 so mounting depth is larger. But there's several guys in the thread who said they are running it in their stealth box. While 300w isn't optimal, if everything is carefully tuned it will not be an issue and it will still hit. 300w is more in the wheelhouse of the 10w3 tho, and unless you plan on an amp upgrade in the future I don't know that you have much to gain in going with the w6. That said, the w7, w6, and Hertz Mille subs are tied as my favorite subs. Play around on JL's website theres a lot of good info.

Thanks for the info. It sounds like the 10W3 is probably right for me. I don't see myself changing the amp anytime soon since I just bought it last summer. If anything I'd only go with a slightly larger JL 5 channel amp.

Alpine actually just came out with a new PDX 5 channel, the PDX-v9. It has the same power as the JL HD900/5 but costs $300 less retail. Plus the alpine has the ability to run components active, meaning that there would be no passive crossover network in the mix. This lets the same speakers be louder, more precise, and clearer. The passive crossover doesn't allow the amp to have any control over the speaker, as well as robs a bunch of power just by simply having the amplified signal travel through the crossover. The JL HD and Alpine PDX stuff are the same in SQ and power for the most part. I already sold out of those alpine 5 channels because they are so awesome for the price and features. I only had them in stock for 2 weeks and sold all 20 I had.

For SQ Image Dynamics IDMAX or JL W6. Stay away from Kicker, Alpine, etc.

That looks like a cool amp.

What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.

The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.

That looks like a cool amp.

What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.

The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.

Call me for some info on Hybrid Audio for components;)
then your CDT will be the weak link

ARC 10 is a great option as well for SQ

Yes they are....have one with 200rms

V8 or whomever, i'm going to go with the stealth box as well. i have an Audison LRX5.1k. What do you recommend as far as subs to handle the rms and sound good?
5 Ch 50Wx2(4&)+160Wx2(4&)+1150Wx1(2&)

That looks like a cool amp.

What is it doing to make the components active, just running in 3 channel bandpass mode? The JL amp also does bandpass, I think, but I'm not using it because I have sail panel midwoofers.

The weak link in my setup right now is definitely my front components. They are Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s and they sorely lack in the midbass department, especially compared to my CDT HD-6CF sail panel speakers.

it is pretty sweet, I just put one in my friend's BMW Z3 with JL C3-525's and a 10w3 and was an awesome system.

and yes it can do a bandpass filter on a pair of the channels which is required for the midbass driver in an active 2 way + sub system. and no, there are no JL amps that can do a bandpass filter currently, this alpin is the latest resonable amp with those features to come out in a while.


Call me for some info on Hybrid Audio for components;)
then your CDT will be the weak link

x2 on that HAT is tits. HAT and Hertz/Audison are my two favorite brands for components hand down.

@DOUBLEDMODS will an 8w7 fit in your stealthbox?

V8 or whomever, i'm going to go with the stealth box as well. i have an Audison LRX5.1k. What do you recommend as far as subs to handle the rms and sound good?
5 Ch 50Wx2(4&)+160Wx2(4&)+1150Wx1(2&)

I love the 5.1k's as my sig says I have a pair of the new Voce 5.1ks right now which replaced my LRx5.1k's :)

thats a tough one to find a sub for that small of a box that will take advantage of all that power on the sub channel. I always do my own birth cirtificate with high end amps and I never saw a 5.1k that made less than 1300w RMS @14.4 volts, and I saw as high as 1500 once or twice but they're usually in the high 1300 range.

So that said, I'd do a 10w6 as the best sub for that stealth box. but a 10w6 on that much power might not be the best idea plus its a waste of the power but it would work if tuned correctly (super low gain). If it were me, which I run a 10w7 on each 5.1k, I'd not go for the stealthbox becasue your either going to want to go with a single 10w7 like me or maybe a pair of 10w3's or a pair of Hertz Mille ML2500 subs would be sweet too. the Hertz High Energy subs HX250 are also nice. all of those are great SQ options as I assume your going for SQ with running that amp. What components are you running?

another vote for a 10w6

not with a 10" cutout

not with a 10" cutout

Well thanks for that clarification.
Does that mean you won't sell them with an 8" hole

it is pretty sweet, I just put one in my friend's BMW Z3 with JL C3-525's and a 10w3 and was an awesome system.

and yes it can do a bandpass filter on a pair of the channels which is required for the midbass driver in an active 2 way + sub system. and no, there are no JL amps that can do a bandpass filter currently, this alpin is the latest resonable amp with those features to come out in a while.


I'm not doubting the rest of your advice, but that definitely isn't correct.

The JL XD700/5 most definitely does have Bandpass. Notice that it has the exact same set of controls for the crossovers (x1/x10 switch on the tweeters, BP [Bandpass] switch on the mids). It does, however, lack a subsonic filter.

http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2010/33/136/x136XD7005-F-1.jpeg

Well thanks for that clarification.
Does that mean you won't sell them with an 8" hole

I order 200 at a time
your only request for an 8" so at this point I do not plan on ordering any 8" boxes I am sorry to say

I'm not doubting the rest of your advice, but that definitely isn't correct.

The JL XD700/5 most definitely does have Bandpass. Notice that it has the exact same set of controls for the crossovers (x1/x10 switch on the tweeters, BP [Bandpass] switch on the mids). It does, however, lack a subsonic

That's my bad, I never really looked into the XD amps, the hd line always had my attention and I figured if the hd didn't have it than the XD for sure wouldn't have it. But I stand corrected. DUDE RUN YOUR STUFF ACTIVE WITH IT!

I order 200 at a time
your only request for an 8" so at this point I do not plan on ordering any 8" boxes I am sorry to say

Damn that would really be a perfect little sub for these cars, especially for somone who wants to be different than all the guys with the 10w3/6s, maybe the box would still fit with a second baffle

That's my bad, I never really looked into the XD amps, the hd line always had my attention and I figured if the hd didn't have it than the XD for sure wouldn't have it. But I stand corrected. DUDE RUN YOUR STUFF ACTIVE WITH IT!


No problem. Would running my front components active be worth the loss of the mid-bass in the sail panels? I'd have to run another amp to get them back.

I'm assuming that right now your running your front components and some midbass drivers in the factory sub spot. Having that extra midbass closer to your ears is most likely detracting from your front stage. audiophiles usually run an active front stage and sub, no rears or other extra speakers. Running your components active would get you a lot of improvement because your eliminating the low grade passive crossover. Unless you spend big bucks on a component set the crossover is always the easiest limiting factor to bypass.

It will especially be better once you add a sub. Because then you won't need your extra "midbass" drivers to get some decent low frequency response.

If it were me, and I was happy with that XD amp, I'd go for a 10w3 and some Hertz Energy components up front and run them active. hertz is a great company for SQ and they sell their product al la carte so you don't have to waste money on a crossover you won't use. If you might upgrade the amp down the road I'd do the 10w6 and use the components you've got now and upgrade them later with the amp so you will have components that will take advantage of the amp upgrade.

Well I do have a sub right now, its a 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect. I was just looking for recommendations to replace it.

In order to change to active, I'd need to re-run my speaker wires up to the front so that I could have two sets going to the front. Right now I have my crossovers in my kick panels, so I'd need to extend the speaker wires.

If I switched to active, I'm thinking I'd keep the Infinity tweet (for now) and put the CDT mid-bass driver in place of the Kappa Perfect mid-bass driver. Other upgraded stuff (like Hertz or Hybrid Audio or whatever) will have to wait for body work to be done, because thats costing a fortune.

I do notice the soundstage being pulled rearward with my current setup though.

That sounds like a solid plan. Do you have access to either an oscilloscope or smd dd1? Thats going to be a necessity as well as an rta smartphone app like the jl audio one. Tuning is everything and becomes more critical in an active system

I can definitely get access to a scope, but the SMD DD1 looks pretty easy to use.

Last time I tuned the gains I tried to use JL's recommendations of a test tone and a multimeter looking for a specific voltage, but I wasn't happy with the results.

I'm running the MLK165's up front. Not active, not yet anyhow. I do have a ML3000 which i might sell. Also have a pair of HCX690's i'm not sure what i'm going to do with. I thought about 2 stealth boxes, one on each side. But that might be too much!

any thoughts?

I'm running the MLK165's up front. Not active, not yet anyhow. I do have a ML3000 which i might sell. Also have a pair of HCX690's i'm not sure what i'm going to do with. I thought about 2 stealth boxes, one on each side. But that might be too much!

any thoughts?


anyone?

Milles are the shit :) I'd do 2x 10w6s

I got this subwoofer hooked up to an alpine mrx-v70

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/product/productDetails.jsp?pid=GT5-10D

is it good for this box ??