1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

i bought an LQ4 long block today for $350, has 70k miles on it and is pretty clean except for having a bad headgasket (didnt know it had one when i bought it, but i figured at $350 it didnt really matter what shape it was in) so i already plan on putting new headgaskets and arp head studs in it because its going to have a turbo on it. and i was going to pull the main and connecting rod caps off of it to check how the bearings are. now my questions are, what should i use for headgaskets? and can i take the rod/main caps off to check them and put them back on using the factory bolts? or should i buy new ones? (i dont know if theyre TTY or not) and i was told i cant use arp studs in the con rods unless i got them resized so i should get these katech ones instead

http://www.tickperformance.com/katec...ing-rod-bolts/

LQ4 TECH

[QUOTE=1988montecarloss;16258080]i bought an LQ4 long block today for $350, has 70k miles on it and is pretty clean except for having a bad headgasket (didnt know it had one when i bought it, but i figured at $350 it didnt really matter what shape it was in) so i already plan on putting new headgaskets and arp head studs in it because its going to have a turbo on it. and i was going to pull the main and connecting rod caps off of it to check how the bearings are. now my questions are, what should i use for headgaskets? and can i take the rod/main caps off to check them and put them back on using the factory bolts? or should i buy new ones? (i dont know if theyre TTY or not) and i was told i cant use arp studs in the con rods unless i got them resized so i should get these katech ones instead

The main bolts are torque to yield so unless you plan on replacing them you could just leave them alone, being the motor has pretty low miles on it, and as far as the ARP rod bolts, I am also building a 6.0l and was a little sketchy about them at first but I talked to quite a bit of people on here and a lot of guys are running them without getting their rods resized, so I ended up ordering main studs and rod bolts from texas speed and the guys there even told me I shouldn't worry, so it kinda helped me decide to just go ahead and buy them, its cheap insurance especially if your boosting your motor

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Main bolts are not tty. They are torque to angle and are re useable. However, do not re use the bearings or rod bolts. The bearings will not seat where they were exactly are more than likely fail. Arp rod bolts will need to be re sized more than likely. At least have them checked for out of round.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

the motor had a bad headgasket and id like to see if the bearings are toast or not before i have it in a car, so im not going to just leave them alone

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

anybody else got opinions on this?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

I'll say it again, not to be a dick, but just to make sure you understand. Do not re install the bearings if you take them out.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

And also, depending on where the head gasket popped, will determine if it's worth it to check the bearing. If it poured coolant into the oil, change the bearings, If it went between cylinders and just started burning coolant, they are probably fine.

How does the crank case look? If it's got a tan, milky hue on everything, it dumped into the crank case, if it looks like normal buildup, I wouldn't worry about it.

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

I definitely second the not reusing the bearings. They are pretty cheap and likely won't re-seat correctly the second time causing them to live a shorter life. Just go ahead and swap them out

I would never break a motor open no matter how many miles were on it, and not just change the bearings out.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

it got into the crankcase, if they didnt i wouldnt even be looking at the bearings haha, i guess ill just go ahead and throw new bearings in it, any idea how much they cost? and would i have to get the rods resized?

Kooljames20

iTrader: (9)

i don't have any input but i just wanted to subscribe because i was wondering the same thing

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

could i reuse the con rod bolts too? ive been thinking of just putting this 6.0 into my 88 monte and picking up another for my 71 since they will both be getting 6.0's eventually

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

I wouldn't reuse the stock rod bolts if you paid me to. Even after the "upgraded" them in the later years, they are still the weak link.

I would get new arp's, and have the rods resized. The machine shop should charge much more than 5 a rod to resize. It's cheap insurance.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

il probably use the arp bolts because i can buy those for $80 compared to the katech ones for $200, im just worried about my local machine shop being able to size the rods because of the cracked cap design

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Being a cracked cap design has nothing to do with it. If they can resize regular parting caps, they can resize cracked rods. Same process, less steps.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

so i found scat forged i beam rods with new bolts for $279, i think thats what ill go with because even the cheapest bolts at $80 and resizing them ($100) brings me to $180 which is only $100 short from forged rods that already come with good con rod bolts

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

Id do a mahle power pak kit with 6.125 rods, the scat 6.215 rods (i have a set in my ls2), replace all the bearings and use ls9 head gaskets since they are 7 layers thick and work very well with boost

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

i would to if i had a bunch of money but i dont, if the motor didnt have a bad headgasket it wouldve just gone in the car bone stock and had a turbo thrown on it...

garygnu

if you get new rods you will need to balance the rotating assemble.the stock rods can handle some power.maybe plastic gauge the main bearings.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

yeah i never even thought about that, maybe i will just stick with stock rods haha, planned on using plastigage for everything haha

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

In regards to using the ARP vs. Katech bolts. Yes the Katechs are more but there are several things to take into consideration.

If you go with the ARP's and have the rods resized you have to buy a set of rings, bearings and have the cylinders honed. I think that would probably end up being more than being 200 for the Katechs. If the bearings are OK it might be cheaper in the long run to do the Katechs.

But if you are planning on boosting it, its not a bad idea to put better rings in it anyway to try and avoid the dreaded #7 busted ringland/piston problem.

Just my .02