New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Questions regarding an LS1 with milkiness....

Thanks to Conan, he has answered my original question regarding what the two lines were. One is the PCV line, and the other is the crossrover line between the heads that attaches to the throttle body.

Now i have a legitimate issue....

The oil cap has condensation on it, but none in the oil pan. The TB and the intake has the condensation as well.

The truck had a bad water pump, and its now replaced. but i haven't started it since installing this past weekend.

When it did run, the truck ran ok when you don't get on it, when you stomp it, after you let up, it runs rough, idle is jacked up, LOADING up on fuel, but no codes are showing on the computer.


The truck also doesn't have heat like it used to. This could be an issue that relates to nothing to do with this, but having being part of the cooling system, figured i would try and make sure.

The truck also overheats if sitting while running, no matter how you drive it.

The starter also is dragging. When the truck is cold, it struggles to turn the engine over. When its hot, forget it. I have to wait until the engine cools (about 10 minutes) down before i can start it again.

None of these issues happened when we first built the truck. I had heat, truck ran like a raped ape, and NEVER had a cooling problem. We have taken it to many shows and cruise around in it and never gotten hot. Always ran at 190. I do have a dual electric fan setup on the truck and the larger radiator for the 67-72 C10s. I am running an external trans cooler for the 4L60E.

So far i have flushed the engine oil, and the coolant system. Added an over flow tank. Replaced the T stat twice (just in case the replacement was junk). Check the radiator, and no leaks. The fans are running fine as well. Now i am in the process of replacing the Water pump, which was bad (leaking from the seep hole on the bottom)


I know its lengthy, and i will be trying to search for answers in the LS1 threads as well, but thought i could ask you guys since i know you are a lot more familiar with these engines than I

edit:

Here is a little more info. After taking the valve covers off, this is what it looks like. Is this good? Bad? Ugly?

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/Josh40601/Nasty/e605c92f.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/Josh40601/Nasty/bba7b52d.jpg

This is my first time inside this engine, or any LS series engine for that matter. Would you guys consider this good?

There was an EXTREMELY minimal amount of water i found in the oil. I checked the dipstick and in all the crevices above.

The first pic is for coolant to flow through the throttle body. You dont need to have that hooked up. There should be a cross over pipe from your heads with a small hose running to the radiator, that hose used to go through those pipes on the throttle body.

The second is for your PCV systems it should be plugged in to the hose in the 3rd pic with the orange #'s.

Thanks bud!

The small line that runs from passenger to driver is there, and this was hooked to it. On the end that should be going to the radiator is capped off. Is that ok? You can see in the pic how it was capped off.

This is for the PCV system. Got it. Is it supposed to look milky in the intake and throttle body like shown in the pics?

[QUOTE=Josh40601;16258904]ok,


I circled this line that is attached to the throttle body. It is capped on one end, then leads into the intake.
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/Josh40601/Nasty/dbb218cd-1.jpg


The pipe in my pic here has a hose that goes to one side (TB) of this pic ^^^ and then then to the radiator. You can by pass the throttle body ports but you need the pipe from the crossover tube on the heads to go to the radiator. You can take those 2 hoses off you throttle body and leave them open.
http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/29353363629.jpg


The milky stuff is just oil from the pcv mixing with condensation and crank case gases. Get a catch can for the pcv to get rid of that happening in the intake

Thanks so much for the help Conan. Since it is ran to the TB, and i am not running an Fbody radiator, i am lost on how to run this line into the radiator.

I also updated the first post to help try and nail down the issue i am having with the C10

use this in your upper radiator hose (or something similar) run the cross over tube hose to a nipple on this pipe. Bypass the throttle body

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/gearhead74/Misc/unnamed.jpg

that gunk in the throttle body is coming form the breather hose on the pass valve cover not the PCV, pull the pass valve cover and look for more gunk, maybe a cracked head.

WTF is that picture of?! So no need to cool the throttle body then?


As far as the line going into the passenger side valve cover... Oh shit...

You don't think head gasket? I have NEVER let the truck get up to 240*. The engine is basically all stock other than exhaust, intake, and a tune. Only has around 72-73k on it.

It's not cooling the throttle body, it is actually there to warm it up in colder climates. The hose in question is the steam vent for your engine. It needs to vent steam built up inside the engine during operation. Not sure how you survived this long with it plugged. Might be part of your problem with overheating, that and a bad water pump.

T,

WTF is that picture of?! So no need to cool the throttle body then?

radiator hose adapter with thread bungs to install hose barbs, you could make it chaeaper if you were so inclined....no reason to heat the t-body


As far as the line going into the passenger side valve cover... Oh shit...

pull the cover and check

You don't think head gasket? I have NEVER let the truck get up to 240*. The engine is basically all stock other than exhaust, intake, and a tune. Only has around 72-73k on it.

head gasket is still a possibilty

It's not cooling the throttle body, it is actually there to warm it up in colder climates. The hose in question is the steam vent for your engine. It needs to vent steam built up inside the engine during operation. Not sure how you survived this long with it plugged. Might be part of your problem with overheating, that and a bad water pump.

T,

Got it! Now things are starting to make sense. (light bulb finally came on...)



radiator hose adapter with thread bungs to install hose barbs, you could make it chaeaper if you were so inclined....no reason to heat the t-body

I was confused. I will check to see if any of the vendors offer it. If not, I am sure Summit or Jegs would.



pull the cover and check,

ASAP.



head gasket is still a possibilty

That's a much smaller oh shit. I had already figured this was my problem. Cracked head is a little more priceir than a head gasket.


This is a huge help gents. I had no idea what was going on.

circled in red

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/gearhead74/Chevelle/IMAG0152.jpg

Rodger that. Checked with a couple vendors, nothing. Summit wants 40 bucks for that one you posted. Seems a little steep for just a black piece of plastic, 2 bungs, and 2 fittings.

BTW, what throttle cable is that? I'm using the autozone special and this thing sucks. Do you happen to have a build thread or anything on that?

stock F-body. I think I started one but never got around to updating it.

x2 on the catch can

x2 on the catch can

such as one of these?

http://mikenorrismotorsports.com/Billet_PCV_Catch_Cans.html

get a hydrocarbon test done your coolant... that will rule out a headgasket or confirm it...

what do you have for o2 sensors?

stock 02 sensors in the factory F body manifolds. Rears were deleted from the harness, comp, and pipes. Running a howell harness for engine and trans along with a howell programming of the stock fbody PCM

get a hydrocarbon test done your coolant... that will rule out a headgasket or confirm it...

from what i read, this is the best kit to get for at home fellers like myself.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7001006_0361165456

Looks like the local guys don't have it, so i will have to order it.

such as one of these?

http://mikenorrismotorsports.com/Billet_PCV_Catch_Cans.html

Just like that one. That will keep all that shit out of the intake.

Here is what it looks like under the valve cover

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/Josh40601/Nasty/e605c92f.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/Josh40601/Nasty/bba7b52d.jpg

This is my first time inside this engine, or any LS series engine for that matter. Would you guys consider this good?

There was an EXTREMELY minimal amount of milkiness i found in the oil. I checked the dipstick and in all the crevices above. I also picked up the Napa Hydrocarbon tester as well. Once i get time to get it back together, I'll do the test on it. The new AC Delco pump and factory temp thermostat installed. All i am waiting for is the in-house adapter i ended up buying instead of making. Found a really good looking aluminium one and decided to go that route. Should be here this week.

New pics, those aren't working.

New pics, those aren't working.

Thanks Conan, I fixed them. They should be working now.

Let me know what you guys think.

I have had a guy on another forum swear its head problem.

Another one said that if i use Dexcool (Which is all i have ran in the engine since I've owned it) it has likely eaten an intake gasket. I have heard this from another buddy as well.

Those pics look ok to me. Try to get the catch can on it as well.

Those pics look ok to me. Try to get the catch can on it as well.

Catch can is next on the list as long as i don't have to do a head gasket or replace the head.

What coolant do you guys recommend? I have been using Dexcool since day 1, but multiple people have told me to switch. You guys build big power LS engines, what do you guys use on your DD street machines? I want something i can drive 2-300 miles at a time at 70-75 on the interstate

also looking through some other pics, my heads have that goldish brown tint. Is that bad? I haven't seen any of the other engines look like that.

long oil change intervals, conventional oil or both

I use dex in my engines that came with dex. I have never had a problem with it, alot of people hate it and will tell you that it sucks. If you service the cooling system in the time/miles range dex tells you to, you wont have any problems. Hopefully this wont turn in to a dex vs green pissing match for you.

Do you have any coolant in the engine oil ? Or oil in the coolant ? One thing you could do is a leak down test on the cylinders and see if you have air bubbles coming out of the radiator you have head gasket problems.

im not a big fan of dexcool simply because if you put regular tap water in it or a non global coolant it gels up... seen it happen in a lightning intercooler... the boy was using dexcool for the IC and added ford gold and it geled right up...


But as long as you run Dexcool/distilled water it should be fine...

However if you wanna change it out run Global anitfreeze... its a antifreeze that mixes with anytype and dosent gel up or turn acidic...

long oil change intervals, conventional oil or both

When i lived in San Diego, the truck probably got an oil change once a year. The engine sat in a crate for 3 years before ever being installed. Seems this could be the culprit of the golden brown. Anyway to get rid of that?

Hopefully this wont turn in to a dex vs green pissing match for you.

Do you have any coolant in the engine oil ? Or oil in the coolant ? One thing you could do is a leak down test on the cylinders and see if you have air bubbles coming out of the radiator you have head gasket problems.

I flushed the cooling system and the oil twice before replacing the waterpump. No oil in the coolant, no coolant in the oil.

im not a big fan of dexcool simply because if you put regular tap water in it or a non global coolant it gels up... seen it happen in a lightning intercooler... the boy was using dexcool for the IC and added ford gold and it geled right up...


But as long as you run Dexcool/distilled water it should be fine...

However if you wanna change it out run Global anitfreeze... its a antifreeze that mixes with anytype and dosent gel up or turn acidic...


Thanks! I'll keep that in mind

Your oil cap can get the milky looking oil in it from running the engine without letting it get to operating temperture. Those quick trips to the store ect.. The motor needs to get hot enough to get rid of accumulated moisture. Road Trip!! I just get a paper towel and wipe out the cap and forget about it.

Thanks!

When i lived in San Diego, the truck probably got an oil change once a year. The engine sat in a crate for 3 years before ever being installed. Seems this could be the culprit of the golden brown. Anyway to get rid of that?



carb cleaner, running synthetic might take some of it out eventually

Thanks gents. Got everything tightened back up and fired the ol girl up.

Here is what happened...

1.) ran a hydrocarbon test and there was no change of color and very very little bubbles. Honestly think the head gaskets/heads are fine.

2.) the temp gauge is acting crazy. It goes straight to max as soon power is "on"

3.) fans are not kicking on at all

4.) the check engine light is on

5.) the truck runs fine now, but scared to take it out due to the cooling