Generation III Internal Engine - 228R Cam and Emissions

I am considering swapping the Texas Speed 228r cam in to my 2000 z28 with an M6. It still has the factory manifolds with cats and an SLP LM1. My question is, will it pass emissions with either the 114 or 112 LSA? I live in Utah, anyone passed with this cam or one bigger with the emissions specs in my area?

I don't really know what the emission standards are Utah, or how they compare to California, but a 228r 114lsa has 0* overlap and 4* overlap on the 112lsa. In CA. you would need the 228r to have a 116lsa (-4* overlap) to pass.

IMO, I wouldn't run a 228r with a wide 116lsa, Id go with a smaller cam first!

After a little searching it look's like Utah has adopted the California standards, so I'd forget about getting the 228r. I'd suggest going with a 224/224 114lsa (-4* overlap) or smaller.
Since you're running the stock manifolds I go with a cam with more exhaust duration, like a 222/226 114lsa (-4*), or a 220/224 113lsa(-4*), a 220/228 114lsa (-4*) .
Or, any of the other cam I already recommended to you.

Stock manifold I would increase exhaust durations even further.
Like: 218 /230, .605/.604 115+3 LSA

I tuned a 228/228 112 LS1 that passed emissions here in AZ. Can't say anything about cali though...

No,

I had a 228R in my T/A and it wouldnt pass NC inspection. I was even told a 224R would be hard pressed to pass without perfect tuning with a slight bit of luck as well.


Take $50 with you when you go to get tested and just kinda hint around for someone to "overlook" a few things, thats what I did :D

Call TSP and ask about the 224/228 LSA 114. Also they could custom grind you something that would pass.

So basically anything with a lower intake and higher exhaust duration should pass? Also, what kind of power decrease does say a 222/226 have compared to a 228r?

So basically anything with a lower intake and higher exhaust duration should pass?

No, they're recommending that to you because you have the stock manifolds and should have a cam that's more oriented towards exhaust. That difference is not something magical that will pass inspection, just more for performance.

I'm personally thinking about at this cam to run on the stock manifolds or shorties:
comp cam 54-444-11, XER273HR 224/230 LSA 114 .581/.588

So basically anything with a lower intake and higher exhaust duration should pass? Also, what kind of power decrease does say a 222/226 have compared to a 228r?

You're going to have a lower power band so you'll have less top end power than the 228r, but you have better low end power. If you really want to maximize your power & pass SMOG, have your heads ported/milled with a smaller cam.

You're going to have a lower power band so you'll have less top end power than the 228r, but you have better low end power. If you really want to maximize your power & pass SMOG, have you heads ported/milled with a smaller cam.

Do you think that with an awesome tune a 228r would pass SMOG? I plan on doing 5.3l heads and full exhaust in the future. But for about a year I need to DD it.

Do you think that with an awesome tune a 228r would pass SMOG? I plan on doing 5.3l heads and full exhaust in the future. But for about a year I need to DD it.

At 4* positive overlap NO.

Well I'll have to see if I can find someone who will
Pass me before i put anything in. I would hate to regret going too small later on.

Yeah, I'd have to agree with PREDATOR-Z, I just don't see it happening.

So until I can afford to buy a car to DD, I think i'll just do gears and some Drag Radials. Im thinking 3.73's or 4.10's. I'm mainly building the car for the track, but as i said before i need to daily drive it until i can buy a new DD. Will 3.73's make much of a difference or should i go with like 3.90's?

I passed cali smog easily with a 224R, and it made good power, even through stock manifolds/cats, SLP Y pipe, and LM1.

Through an unlocked, stalled auto, and 3.73s, I made 350/352 on a dynapack dyno.

Well I'm 18 YO and I don't exactly have money to blow. So until I can afford heads I'm going to have to slowly work towards making it track ready. Any thoughts on 3.90
Gears?

If your going to build it up into a track car, I'd go with the 4.10s since most run taller than stock rear tires.

Well it's going to be a dd/ weekend track car. I'm gonna get a set of DR's and I've heard that you will easily break the factory ten bolt with 4.10's

Anything is possible if you know someone and have a little extra cash. I passed CA smog with L/T and a MS3 cam.

^^LOL That's called (Connection)

You'd be surprised at how much quicker a car can be by getting the right tire and suspension setup.....plus remember you can build a good strong bottom end with a small cam and blast it with a bunch of n2o to make up for not having the bigger cam that won't pass emissions.

What about gears and MT's?