Stereo & Electronics - Direct power mod for driver's window

I've just finished my first motor swap.

1) Is it worth the trouble to install some relays at the driver's door for extra power?

2) Does the express down module really shorten the motor's life span?

It's easy to bypass the EDM, but I've been warned about placing relays inside the driver's door - mainly space limitations.

I did some testing at the motor's harness. I was expecting 11-12 volts but it actually measured 13.8 (car on). Regardless if I use the pass window or if the EDM is being bypassed or not, I still get that measurement. NOTE: I DO have the direct power mod installed for the pass side window.

I want to hear your experience with this before I reinstall my door panel.

**EDM is not completely necessary for me as long as my motor will last longer.

Below is an older thread that explains what I'm referring to:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/1405652-drivers-side-window-fix-w-o-express-down.html

Thanks for helping out

1) Is it worth the trouble to install some relays at the driver's door for extra power?

You'll get differing opinions here on if it even "works" at all. The kit will make a bad motor look better.

Financially speaking, purchasing a motor with a lifetime warranty will be much less expensive. Whether its "worth it" or not depends on how much money you want to spend to increase your window motor change interval. (If you used the shbox method for your recent install, future replacements should be quick and easy.)

2) Does the express down module really shorten the motor's life span?

Definitely not. It simulates a finger on the window button. The motor has an internal cutoff, which functions the same no matter if the express module is operating the window or a finger on the button is doing the same thing.

I suppose the act of holding down the button until the motor cuts off (and for that matter using the express down function) will heat up that thermal resistor (which performs the cutoff function) and will shorten the life of the resistor. (The thermal resistor failure is a common cause of an overall motor unit failure.) IMO - At the point one is being that careful about nursing the motor, why not go to a hand crank?

I'd suggest installing the new Dorman design motor and not worrying about this at all. The Dorman has been around for years now and I have yet to see someone post a failure of that motor.

It's easy to bypass the EDM, but I've been warned about placing relays inside the driver's door - mainly space limitations.

Not sure what your problem is here. The module is bypassed at the module, which is under the dash.

I did some testing at the motor's harness. I was expecting 11-12 volts but it actually measured 13.8 (car on). Regardless if I use the pass window or if the EDM is being bypassed or not, I still get that measurement. NOTE: I DO have the direct power mod installed for the pass side window.

You mean that you DO NOT have the direct power mod installed? Your measurements are normal. The mod has a very very small impact on the voltage measurement. The effect would be greater on the passenger side, which has longer wires to it, more resistance in the circuit, and a smaller voltage. (Its still way above 12 volts in the stock condition, though.)

I want to hear your experience with this before I reinstall my door panel.

This question isn't going to help you much. Some people have installed the kit and seen improvements and some have installed it and not seen an improvement. Your question above as to the "worth" of the kit is key. In your case, installing the kit will have no impact on your new motor. It may only extend the time until your next motor change.

You'll get differing opinions here on if it even "works" at all. The kit will make a bad motor look better.

Financially speaking, purchasing a motor with a lifetime warranty will be much less expensive. Whether its "worth it" or not depends on how much money you want to spend to increase your window motor change interval. (If you used the shbox method for your recent install, future replacements should be quick and easy.)

Unfortunately I can't get the lifetime warranty in my country; just 90 days for the dorman or any other brand.
I already have 2 bosch relays w/ sockets I could use, as well as wire and terminals.


Definitely not. It simulates a finger on the window button. The motor has an internal cutoff, which functions the same no matter if the express module is operating the window or a finger on the button is doing the same thing.

That's exactly how in my mind the EDM should work, however, I've read many post here (autotrix) that state that it limits voltage. So I carried out some testing and found NO voltage loss when either having it connected or bypassed (I used a small U wire at the harness to quickly bypass it without cutting anything). As I said, the voltmeter measured above 13.8volts in both cases.
Nonetheless, I think there's a technical reason as to why you can't retain the EDM while doing the relay mod.



I'd suggest installing the new Dorman design motor and not worrying about this at all. The Dorman has been around for years now and I have yet too see someone post a failure of that motor.
I've already installed it. Performance is almost on par with the pass side original motor with the power mod. The pass side is quicker by 1 sec.




Not sure what your problem is here. The module is bypassed at the module, which is under the dash.
But if I were to do the mod for the DS side, I could place the relays inside the door (less cable run between relays and motor wires).


You mean that you DO NOT have the direct power mod installed? Your measurements are normal. The mod has a very very small impact on the voltage measurement. The effect would be greater on the passenger side, which has longer wires to it, more resistance in the circuit, and a smaller voltage. (Its still way above 12 volts in the stock condition, though.

When I did the pass side I never checked for voltage at the motor wire harness, however, it had a positive impact on performance. Much faster, and gave me the ability pull both my windows up/down at the same time without any lag.

I'm assuming you have the Dorman motor installed without the relay mod for the DS side and with the EDM still in place.

Can you comment on how long you've had it that way?

Thanks

That's exactly how in my mind the EDM should work, however, I've read many post here (autotrix) that state that it limits voltage.

Technically speaking... any electronic component will come with resistance, which will lower the voltage of a circuit. Practically speaking, your suspicion is correct. The statement is just marketing B.S.

I think there's a technical reason as to why you can't retain the EDM while doing the relay mod.

Yes, the base mod kit is just a relay. The EDM is a module containing a relay. Its been a while since I looked at the electronics in detail, but I recall that the EDM needs to "see" the motor and can't be isolated by another relay.

Autotrix sells a more expensive kit that allows one to retain the express down functionality. IMO - That just tips the financial scales further in favor if leaving the electronics stock.


But if I were to do the mod for the DS side, I could place the relays inside the door (less cable run between relays and motor wires).

You don't want to do that. The door is not a happy place for electronics. (Its entirely open to the elements.) The DS motor wires aren't connected to the switch and are instead connected to the EDM - as is the switch. If you put the relay inside the door behind the lower kick molding and intercept the motor wires where they go out of the body to the door, you'll get the electronics protected and can tap in to all the wires at that point without needing to run any additional lengths.


I'm assuming you have the Dorman motor installed without the relay mod for the DS side and with the EDM still in place.

Correct. I also installed a spare EDM on the passenger side. So, I have express down on both sides, have 2 dorman motors, and all is well. One is a bit slow due to a warped regulator. (I haven't had the energy to replace that yet.)


Can you comment on how long you've had it that way?

I'm on a personal mission to solve this problem for the ages. The Dorman motor design is my latest option/test. I've had them in for 2-3 years with no issue.

Before that, I went through 6 stock motors. (Some new and some rebuilt) I also tried an aftermarket motor/regulator combo, which was good for a while but proved to be an outrageous repair when a motor blew out. So, I'm back to the stock regulators and Dormans.

If the Dormans ever fail on me, I'll tear them apart and do some inventing...

heres what i did and my windows are still going strong

The write up: http://ls1tech.com/forums/13793768-post22.html

The proof video: http://ls1tech.com/forums/13795757-post26.html

heres what i did and my windows are still going strong

The write up: http://ls1tech.com/forums/13793768-post22.html

The proof video: http://ls1tech.com/forums/13795757-post26.html
:confused:
Is that an alternative way of bypassing the thermal resistor without soldering?