General Maintenance & Repairs - Alternator Wire Help

Guys I am having problems with my 2000 SS. The old alternator wasn't charging, so I replaced it, BUT I tested the old alternator and it is good, it put out 15+v. Continuesly when I got it tested at work(O'reilley). I'm guessing its going to be the excitor wire, and ordered one from work:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/PT5674.oap?ck=Search_pt5674_-1_2829&keyword=pt5674

Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!

Anybody?

match it with the old one. make sure you solder the wire to the original wire or have a good crimp and wrap it with electrical tape. also check your grounds. they can get corroded and cause issues too.

This one is what everyone uses......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-ALTERNATOR-WIRING-CONNECTOR-F-BODY-P032-/250889567153?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6a2efbb1&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_715

Use butt connectors. Then shrink wrap. I didn't solder mine. (going on 6 years with my new wire) I wouldn't use electrical tape, that wire takes a beating in the rain, electrical tape won't last as long as shrink wrap. Dodge Chrysler shrink wrappers are the best ones made, they have a glue thats inside them that cools off like apoxy.

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I have another question. I was just out there and I checked the excitor wire, the original one, and there's nothing wrong with the connection. Power steering fluid fell in the connector, can that be the cause of the problem? I sprayed wd40 into the connector and tried cleaning it out with some towels, and got it pretty clean, but that didn't help. For the grounds, are there any grounds for the alternator? I disconnected two ground from that area when I was doing the heaD gaskets, one on the left fender side right next to the radiator, and another one going to the engine on the driver side that appears to be holding onto the oxygen sensor, what are those for?

C'mon guys i really need your help. This car is really starting to piss me off.

this isnt a help desk. you cant demand answers. figure it out yourself or wait for someone to have free time and care enough to stop and help.

YES PS fluid is corrosive, they have been known to kill altlernators ever since our 4th Gen's came out. clean all connections and it wouldnt hurt to replace that plug anyways as a lot of people loosen up the stock one unknowingly when they replace the alternator. there is a ground strap from the back of the alternator to the chassis on driver side, cant miss it its a strap not a cable. i dont know every little ground, but they are all there for a reason to make sure they are clean and bolt them back up.

My bad, it's just that this car is a PITA! I should've kept my '78 Z28. I Think I put thread lock on one or both of those ground straps, I'll have to check that out tomorrow. I just want to drive this thing already.

There is no ground strap (nor ground wire) connected directly to the alternator. The ground strap that runs near it goes from the engine to the frame.

I've had alternators that didn't charge properly even when they tested fine on a bench tester. The bench test just can't duplicate the heat that the alternator sees in the engine bay and under continuious use. If the exciter wire is OK, then I would just suspect a faulty alternator.

I just put a brand new, not remanufactured, alternator in there. I didn't feel like pulling that alternator back out, but looks like I'm going to have to. I'm going to check all grounds and see if that helps.

There is a thread upgrading to a 2003 Tahoe alternator. I went through a handful of alternators too before I upgraded.

Guys I am having problems with my 2000 SS. The old alternator wasn't charging, so I replaced it, BUT I tested the old alternator and it is good, it put out 15+v. Continuesly when I got it tested at work(O'reilley). I'm guessing its going to be the excitor wire, and ordered one from work:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/PT5674.oap?ck=Search_pt5674_-1_2829&keyword=pt5674

Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!

before you even do that, did you verify that you have 12v to the alternator when installed?

good call RPM WS6, thats right the strap goes from the block to the frame.

before you even do that, did you verify that you have 12v to the alternator when installed?

Is that to the excitor wire?

Is that to the excitor wire?

No, you must have +12 v feed to alt.

Wouln't that be the thick cable going to the back of the alternator? Is there some kind of fuse for the alternator?

I just had the same problem but a shop replaced the plug for me. I prob did'nt need the altinador.

I just got the plug today. I had to special order it from my job yesterday. I'm hoping to install it tomorrow before or after work and see if that fixes my problem. I'm really hoping that this is all I need, even though my excitor wire looks fine. I wish I would have done this while the alternator is out. I managed to unplug the connection from the top, so I'm going to see if I can replace it from up top as well.

Is that to the excitor wire?

here's a wiring diagram.....
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8162/7147243471_f706fef18c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/)
alternator (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/) by 1LtCap (http://www.flickr.com/people/70148615@N03/), on Flickr

the wire from the battery needs to have 12v. without that, the alternator cannot produce amperage, no matter how fast you spin it.
also note that the computer controls the alternator in this application.

check for voltage on that terminal of the alt. if it's not there, it won't charge.

since chevy probably has that cable routed in strange and wondrous ways, use a jumper cable. run it from battery positive to the big cable terminal on the back of the alternator. then take another jumper cable. run it from the alternator housing to a good ground, and see what happens.

also, try this......
1. Disconnect the alternator plug in connector, start the engine and check the voltage on the Red wire for more than 5 volts. If less, check the wiring to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

2. Reconnect the alternator, start the engine and with a test light connected to B+, back probe the Red wire at the alternator plug in connector. If the alternator starts charging, and the Red wire voltage was correct in step 1, the regulator in the alternator is faulty.

sorry it's out of order,.,,,,uits late,m and i'm tired.......hope this helps though...

1ltcap that is just what I was looking for. I really needed that wiring diagram and those tips. I will definitely try those things out and see if that works. Thank you guys for being so patient with me. I'm just trying to get this thing running! I'm about to pull my hair out already!:bomb:

I was just out there and I checked the excitor wire, the original one, and there's nothing wrong with the connection. Power steering fluid fell in the connector, can that be the cause of the problem?

No. This is a myth. If the fluid were magnetic, maybe - but its not... All of the alternator internals are completely sealed so dirt, fluids, etc. won't bother it.

If your alternator tested out fine, 99% - it is fine.

Let's go back to the original problem - Did you have your battery tested? When you drive, what does your voltage gauge on the dash show?

If you have a charging problem, it could be:
- the exciter
- a dry battery
- a old/bad battery
- loose/corroded cables connecting the components

There are lots of threads here with similar issues and it just turned out to be a loose wire.

My battery is brand new, and I it was tested and charged at my job. The voltage doesn't go past 11-12v. Not even when I accelerate. It runs just on the battery pretty much, so I haven't driven it.

No. This is a myth. If the fluid were magnetic, maybe - but its not... All of the alternator internals are completely sealed so dirt, fluids, etc. won't bother it.

If your alternator tested out fine, 99% - it is fine.

Let's go back to the original problem - Did you have your battery tested? When you drive, what does your voltage gauge on the dash show?

If you have a charging problem, it could be:
- the exciter
- a dry battery
- a old/bad battery
- loose/corroded cables connecting the components


There are lots of threads here with similar issues and it just turned out to be a loose wire.

Guys found what i'm hoping could be the problem when i was under the car this morning before before coming to work. I disconnected the excitor cable to check it one more tme and tried when i pulled it a bit i noticed that it was stretchy by where it goes into the connector. Can it be that it the wire melted inside? I replaced the connector, but didn't have time turn the car on.

Guys found what i'm hoping could be the problem when i was under the car this morning before before coming to work. I disconnected the excitor cable to check it one more tme and tried when i pulled it a bit i noticed that it was stretchy by where it goes into the connector. Can it be that it the wire melted inside? I replaced the connector, but didn't have time turn the car on.

that almost sounds like the wire's broken inside the insulation.

that almost sounds like the wire's broken inside the insulation.

I hope that that's what it is. The wire felt like there was nothing in that small are of the wire, right before the connector.

Sound similar to my issue, broken wire inside the connector; hope you have found the root cause now.

Yea, all it takes is one drop with the alternator dangling on that thing and it will start to rip out.

Well guys, it turned out to be the excitor wire. I finished the repair today and fired it up, and the Volts gauge shot up. It put a big smile in my face. Thank you all for your help.

Congrat!