LT1-LT4 Modifications - Cam swap compatibilty questions

I post on ls1lt1.com but this site seems to get a little more traffic

Been doing alot of research and getting ready to piece together a cam swap. Looking for any info if someone doesnt agree with parts ive chosen.
Car is a 94 Z28 a4. Heads are gonna be resurfaced and Going to have a shop here in TX port the heads and intake manifold. Using stock valves

63-230/236-112 Comp Cams "Extreme" LT1 Camshaft, 230 / 236, .510 / .520 112 LSA

20-12499225 GM LS7 Lifters

63-1418-16 Comp Cams Magnum Self-Aligning Roller-Tip Rocker Arms, 3/8" stud, 1.6 Ratio

63-7940-16 Comp Cams Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly pushrods, 7.200" (OEM Roller - Factory Length)

986-16 Valve Springs, Dual, 1.430 in. Outside Diameter, 322 lbs./in. Rate, 1.150 in. Coil Bind Height,

63-740-16 Comp Cams 10 Degree Steel Retainers for Comp #987 Valvespring.

611-16 Comp Cams Valve Locks, Machined, Hardened Steel, 10 Degree, 1-Groove, 11/32 in. Valve Stem,

161-VS1132X562 K-Line 11/32 Valve Stem Seals, set of 16

63-4500-16 Comp Cams "High Energy" Rocker Arm Studs, 3/8"

Mainly confused on do i need 10* locks or 7* locks?

Also I made this list of parts a long time ago and now the 986-16 valve springs arnt listed on thunder racing and now has 987-16. Valve Springs, Dual, 1.430 in. Outside Diameter, 344 lbs./in. Rate, 1.150 in. Coil Bind Height,

Will the 3/8 studs/rockers work fine or should I step up to 7/16.?

And would you use guidplates with self align rockers?

Or has someone went with a company like this which these show 7* locks
LT1 VALVE SPRING KIT Includes: SPRINGS, RETAINERS, LOCKS & CUPS. -
http://www.alexsparts.com/lt1-valve-spring-kit-includes-springs-retainers-locks-cups/

I just want as much info as possible before I start buying parts and end up with something I can't use.

A 10* lock provides a better lock then 7* is it needed depends on what you are doing.

You do not need to run guide plates with Self Aligning Rockers.

Self Aligning Rockers shouldnt be pushed past say 6000 RPM. They probably can but better just be safe and run Non Self Aligning, guide plates, and Chromoloy Push Rods.

3/8 studs work, but once again its added security if you step up to the 7/16. The bottom of the 3/8 stud that screws into the head is 7/16 the top the rocker sits on is 3/8. So there is no drilling and tapping needed its a direct swap. Just run 7/16.

Patriot Gold Springs (https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=159&cat=19&bestseller=Y). They include locks, springs, titanium retainers, spring locators, and valve seals for 300 bucks.

Patroit Extreme Golds (http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by/category/Cylinder-Heads-and-Valvetrain/Valve-Springs-Retainers-and-Accessories/Patriot-Performance-Dual-Gold-Extreme-Spring-Kit-for-LT1-LT4-applications-includes-titanium-retainers-machined-spring-bases-locks-andandnbsp;viton-rubber-valve-seals_7344/details.html) 315. These are the ones Lloyd Elliot uses.

Thanks for the info

Looking on different sites and comp cams site I dont see a self aligning 7/16 1.6 rocker. All I see listed as 7/16 are non self aligning

Guess I'm going to do some more research towards non self aligning.

Since your buying rockers. Go with 7/16 nsa rockers 7/16 studs and guide plates. There are no reason to stay with the sa rockers. You with have lot more valve train stability with the 7/16 rockers with guide plates.

Thanks Ill definantly do some more research on NSA.

I would rethink the cam, the rockers, the springs, the studs, I would wait and measure pushrod length, and ask why are you assuming you need to buy new lifters.

That cam would suit a stroker better.

Basically I am struggling to see what about your plan is right?

The pushrods are a good piece BUT like I said you need to measure for length FIRST.

Roller tip is a joke.
SA as discussed is not the right choice, as is the 3/8" stud it lead you too.

Well my plan is to build a 383. I chose the 230/236 cause I didnt want to go to wild like cc306 or too small like cc305 If I ever upgraded to something better than mild ported lt1 heads.

I chose to get new lifters cause the current lifters already have 120kmiles on them.

Im just trying to get everything organized and get everything I need ahead of time and start a pile of new car parts

This is my first v8 project. I use to be into imports years ago and had built a nasty 12.5:1 ls/vtec that I could go on and on about and was looking to run high 11s low 12s on motor but couple weeks shortly after getting it running Hurricane Ike came through and flooded my town with 4ft of water. So I gave up on that and finally ended up with another project.

It would be pointless to put that 230/236 cam in your car if your only reasoning is that you want to go to a stroker later. its simply too big for a stock bottom end car, and if you spin that stock bottom end to where that cam likes to be (6600), it wont be long until you blow it and have to actually build that 383. Pick up a used cam around 224/230ish, or hell even a hotcam as they pop up for $120 shipped all the time, and enjoy that for a while. When the time comes to build the new 383, sell the 224/230/hotcam and get the big cam you want.

Your BEST route would be to (assuming you are going to build that 383) start gathering the proper parts for the 383 build and leave the motor thats in the car stock until the 383 is ready. That way when you put in the 383 you can sell this stock motor for $500, rather than getting nothing for it PLUS having to get new heads when it explodes from spinning a 230/236 to 6600 rpm and a rod bolt letting go.

^ Good Advice.

I would say take a look around and see what guys manage with stock shortblocks before jumping on the stroker bandwagon too quickly. The cost is a LOT the advantages a lot less than you think. They can be great BUT not if you make compromises elsewhere to get the displacement.