Generation IV Internal Engine - How to removie balancer with engine on a stand?o

Guys working on a 2011 Camaro. I pulled the engine and removed the flywheel to mount he engine on a stand. What would be the best way to remove the balancer?

Thanks for the help, Nate.

3 Jaw Puller

puller.....your local parts store will have them just make sure to check the size i had toretern one cause it was to small

put two flywheel bolts back in the crankshaft and have someone hold it the flywheel while you remove the bolt and then rent or buy the balancer removal tool i have a mac its for chrysler and gm vehicles and remove make sure you get a new bolt and i like to use the balancer installation tool also have a mac one but you can rent a universal one from advanced

put two flywheel bolts back in the crankshaft and have someone hold it the flywheel while you remove the bolt and then rent or buy the balancer removal tool i have a mac its for chrysler and gm vehicles and remove make sure you get a new bolt and i like to use the balancer installation tool also have a mac one but you can rent a universal one from advanced

I should have been clearer in my question. My challenge is that when I went to remove the bolts, the crank would turnover. And because I removed the fly wheel, there was no way in my mind to keep the crank from spinning.


If I'm understanding you correctly, by putting the two bolts back on the crank, I can than put a bar between them so that the engine doesn't spin. Is that correct?

Thanks again for the help guys!

run a chain thru the balancer and bolt the 2 ends to the block. It will hold the balancer in place with out causing damage to the crank.

Thanks for the tip. i should hd mention also that I removed the heads. So all that left on the stand is the host block. Were would you recommend putting the two bolts to the block?

here's a couple ways to do it.

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/MattReznicek/crankboltsm.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/MattReznicek/woodblockcranksm.jpg

Thanks Rezin, my only two concerns with those ideas are that it's an aluminum block, and I might damage it with the wrench. The wood idea would work if I was tearing it down but I'm only changing the cam. I wouldn't want to risk getting debris in the crank case.

I think the chain idea from "burgers" might work, I'm just not sure what to bolt holes to use.

Thanks again guy for all the tips and keep them coming.

the holes for the motor mount are m10 and are what I use. you can run the chain thru the balancer and bolt both ends to the same side and give your self plenty of room to work.

the holes for the motor mount are m10 and are what I use. you can run the chain thru the balancer and bolt both ends to the same side and give your self plenty of room to work.


Sweet, got it thanks burger!

Now here another question I will need to tackle. I going to a Innovators West dampener. I not sure how I'll keep the crank from spinning on the install. Any ideas?

This is the setup:
http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/AL7319/017-8.jpg

Sweet, got it thanks burger!

Now here another question I will need to tackle. I going to a Innovators West dampener. I not sure how I'll keep the crank from spinning on the install. Any ideas?


Uhh, same method in reverse?

Don't forget to use a longer bolt please, don't know if you knew you had to just saying. If you don't have one, I ordered mine thru the ws6store.com.

Uhh, same method in reverse?

The challenge for me is how do I do it being the engine is on a stand. When tightig the bolt, the engine is going to turn over since I wont have a way of keep it from spinning. So I not sure how I'll be able to do other than takings the engine off the stand and reinstalling the flywheel.

Don't forget to use a longer bolt please, don't know if you knew you had to just saying. If you don't have one, I ordered mine thru the ws6store.com.

Thanks for the tip! Any other tips, doesn't have to be necessary pertaining to my specific question, please post them. As I might not know to even ask since I don't know what I don't know, LOL!

Thanks guys for all the input as I never done this before. :cheers:

Nate

Flywheel holder
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-external-engine/1526107-diy-flywheel-holder.html

From another thread

Using the right tools makes the job a lot easier.

Flywheel stop to hold the motor is a nice tool:
http://www.etoolcart.com/images/products/display/J42386A.1.jpg

I made one
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap287.JPG

If the engine is in the car and you have a manual, you can lock the ebrake and put it in a high (5th/6th) gear to keep the engine from rotating.

Then use a cheater bar for removing the bolt
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap289.JPG

And a3-jaw puller for getting the pulley off
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap293.JPG

Here you can see where the jaws should be pulling from - there are three recessed areas cast into the pulley for this purpose.

http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap294.JPG

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1541915-crank-bolt.html

The challenge for me is how do I do it being the engine is on a stand. When tightig the bolt, the engine is going to turn over since I wont have a way of keep it from spinning. So I not sure how I'll be able to do other than takings the engine off the stand and reinstalling the flywheel.

Thanks guys for all the input as I never done this before. :cheers:

Nate

Well, my thought was to stick the wood block (shown) or the chain (which you appeared to have used) on the opposite of the engine to tighten the bolt.

Big impact gun to remove the bolt, no flywheel holding needed.

Be careful w/ the puller and be absolutely sure the tip of the puller doesn't push into the crank threads and trash them. Use a spacer to be certain.

Buy or rent an installation tool. Do not use a longer crank bolt to try and shove the balancer onto the crank or you risk trashing the crank threads. Horror stories abound here, while some have been lucky...not worth the risk.

If you're running a manual trans, I'd wait to install and torque the new crank bolt...easy to do in the car w/ the trans in gear and wheels chocked.

Ingersoll Rand 2135TiMAX...

Finally removed the FREAKING bolt. I took burgers chain advice. Thanks guys for the help!