General LSX Automobile Discussion - Rustproofing - Let's discuss..
Rare96LT1Formula
05-08-2012, 08:57 AM
Just wanted to see how many fellow fbody owners have taken the plunge and rust proofed the undercarriage of their vehicles. I've finally had the oppotunity to check out the undercarriage of mine, and it's a mess to say the least. I have brake lines, springs, frame rail, and gas tank surface rust already well on it's way. Honestly, the undercarriage of my car suggests the car is twice as old as it actually is - which was tough to swallow after finally seeing it. Like many fbody owners here, I take great pride in the overall condition of my vehicle. I truly plan on it being my "forever" summer car. I've been looking into possible rustproofing remedies but I'm simply not sure which one to do. I've debated bringing it to a body shop to see if I could have the surface rust sanded down then protected with some type of undercoating. Has anyone here done this sort of work or paid to have this type of work completed? I found a local place that does rustproofing undercoating for $200 + $40 respray suggested once a year thereafter. Any suggestions/ideas?
Any chance anyone had this type of work done and has before/after pictures?
D&M Corvette also supposedly offers some "restoration" type service that addresses rust issues.
NC01TA
05-08-2012, 10:06 AM
The problem with rustproofing an already older rusty car is that it really doesn't accomplish anything. The rust will still be underneath unless you are talking about totally removing the old rust first. A full restoration?? Not likely. Save your $$ and just keep the undercarriage as clean as possible. That $200 quote will be nothing. $2,000 would be more like it for a proper job.
**Just a side note. My T/A is a one owner (me) and it is garage kept and has only 29,000 miles. Despite always keeping it clean underneath, there are still issues. Not serious at all but just normal aging and use. Last year I picked up my '07 Mustang with just 3,000 miles on it. Garage kept by a collector who had 12 cars. There is surface rust in many areas underneath. Sometimes it just can't be avoided. All I'm doing is keeping it clean and free from future dirt accumulation, etc.. but not spending any $$ on rustproofing.
Jersey Mike
05-08-2012, 10:11 AM
I know there are some products by POR15 and Rustoleum that are advertised to do a variety of things, depending on the product in question, ranging from painting directly over existing rust to stop it from expanding, turning already existing areas black, and rubber undercoatings?
Rare96LT1Formula
05-08-2012, 10:17 AM
The problem with rustproofing an already older rusty car is that it really doesn't accomplish anything. The rust will still be underneath unless you are talking about totally removing the old rust first. A full restoration?? Not likely. Save your $$ and just keep the undercarriage as clean as possible. That $200 quote will be nothing. $2,000 would be more like it for a proper job.
**Just a side note. My T/A is a one owner (me) and it is garage kept and has only 29,000 miles. Despite always keeping it clean underneath, there are still issues. Not serious at all but just normal aging and use. Last year I picked up my '07 Mustang with just 3,000 miles on it. Garage kept by a collector who had 12 cars. There is surface rust in many areas underneath. Sometimes it just can't be avoided. All I'm doing is keeping it clean and free from future dirt accumulation, etc.. but not spending any $$ on rustproofing.
I hear where you're coming from. I know the $200 rustproofing option probably isn't going to meet my standards for my car. That was one of the reasons I mentioned D&M Corvette in Downers Grove, IL. They do all out restorations and are supposedly some of the best in the business at it. I'm going to try and make an appointment with them to see what can be done to the undercarriage. Money and budget is important but at this point, I'll pay if the quality of work meets or exceeds my expectations. I'm just wanting a CLEAN fbody and I'd rather pay the money to clean mine up then to go on a massive search looking for the cleanest LS1/M6/Ttop fbody I can find.
Rare96LT1Formula
05-08-2012, 10:20 AM
I know there are some products by POR15 and Rustoleum that are advertised to do a variety of things, depending on the product in question, ranging from painting directly over existing rust to stop it from expanding, turning already existing areas black, and rubber undercoatings?
The POR15 kit is interesting. I know it stands for "paint on rust" but the idea of doing that doesn't exactly eliminate my undercarriage concerns. Has anyone here used the POR15 kit? Any before/after pictures? I'm really just not sure what I'm going to do here. :confused:
MeentSS02
05-08-2012, 10:56 AM
The POR15 kit is interesting. I know it stands for "paint on rust" but the idea of doing that doesn't exactly eliminate my undercarriage concerns. Has anyone here used the POR15 kit? Any before/after pictures? I'm really just not sure what I'm going to do here. :confused:
Do a search for POR15, and you'll likely find many people that have used it with great success. The most common application is probably on the rear end, which always turn to rust. It's very good stuff, and is supposed to mechanically (not chemically) keep the rust from spreading or coming back. Like anything else involving paint, prep work is the key.
I'd be much more inclined to do this project myself than have some company spray whatever they are trying to pass off as rust proofing...having to respray once a year should tell you a little bit about the durability of what they're trying to push. POR-15 lasts a long, LONG time.
Jersey Mike
05-08-2012, 01:23 PM
I have a can sitting on my shelf that has the slogan, "We know what PERMANENT means!" Kudos, Marketing team. Kudos.
Rare96LT1Formula
05-08-2012, 02:46 PM
Do a search for POR15, and you'll likely find many people that have used it with great success. The most common application is probably on the rear end, which always turn to rust. It's very good stuff, and is supposed to mechanically (not chemically) keep the rust from spreading or coming back. Like anything else involving paint, prep work is the key.
I'd be much more inclined to do this project myself than have some company spray whatever they are trying to pass off as rust proofing...having to respray once a year should tell you a little bit about the durability of what they're trying to push. POR-15 lasts a long, LONG time.
I suppose I'm going to have to look into POR15. You definitely present some valid points.
NC98Z
05-08-2012, 03:03 PM
www.eastwood .com
Rare96LT1Formula
05-08-2012, 04:26 PM
www.eastwood .com
Yes, I've seen the eastwood products. Problem is, I have no idea what I'd need!
StuntmanMike
05-08-2012, 06:41 PM
There's a few other out there beside POR15, somethat require less prep. I did some research last year, and the one that I liked was called "Rust Bullet". There's another one out there, that's similar, I forget the name.
I really need to pickup some of this and do my car too, I was just underneath there yesterday installing a catback, and it's looking bad, and is starting to progress beyond merely just surface rust.
edit: here's a little article on Rust Bullet that I had in my favorites. What I like about it is the lack of necessary prep. Basically just wire brush or wheel the loose stuff off. http://www.customrodder.com/tech/0309cr_best_rust_inhibitor/index.html
RPM WS6
05-08-2012, 11:25 PM
I'm just wanting a CLEAN fbody and I'd rather pay the money to clean mine up then to go on a massive search looking for the cleanest LS1/M6/Ttop fbody I can find.
Cars like this are hard to find around Chicago at this point. Only super low mileage garage queens will be this clean, as any exposure to regular weather conditions around here will age the undercarrige very quickly. The other option would be to import a car from the south/southwest. Having said that, you'll probably still spend less making the trade to a rust free one rather than spending the money to actually restore the entire undercarrige of your current car. The price of a restoration (especially if you're not doing the work yourself) gets out of hand very quickly. If simply covering it with POR15 is acceptable to you though, then this will be the most affordable option.
My solution to this was to buy a second F-body for more regular use. The nice one just stays in the garage now, only coming out for the occasional show or perfect weather drive. Even on my garage queen, which has never been driven in rain, the bare metal areas still develop some minor surface rust (axle, uncoated bolts, etc.).....nothing of concern though.
jsteele90
05-08-2012, 11:53 PM
no rust to worry about on my car.
oldmano2z
05-09-2012, 05:23 AM
i used an eastwood product that has an 18 inch spray nozzle on it that fits into frame rails etc. the stuff has a self etching agent in it and worked good inside the frame horns its o.d. green when dry. i use an old restorer trick when my car is parked for a long time in the garage, i.e. winter storage i lay painters plastic down on the floor as a vapor barrier because here in the mid west the concrete floors weep humidity and cause condensation. lowes and home depo have it cheap, but it needs to be a little thicker
RPM WS6
05-09-2012, 09:55 AM
i use an old restorer trick when my car is parked for a long time in the garage, i.e. winter storage i lay painters plastic down on the floor as a vapor barrier because here in the mid west the concrete floors weep humidity and cause condensation.
I use rubber lined carpet for this same reason. It's a bit easier to deal with than plastic sheeting.
My T/A has some of your typical surface rust on its underside. I plan to attack it with a wire wheel and some POR15, or one of the products similar to it. I haven't done much research one which one would work best for this application.
flintwrench69
05-13-2012, 12:33 AM
Mine doesnt have any rustproofing, thank god it doesnt & really very little rust anywhere. I found a few small spots on the body & very slight surface rust on a few of the fuel line fittings. Brake & fuel lines are rust free. My front lower control arms have surface rust. My car has never seen a winter & its stored inside but no plastic underneath. If your car has bad undercarriage rust it obviously has been driven through snow, salt & slush to look like that.
BAMALS1
05-13-2012, 07:34 AM
The eastwood products are great. They have a few options for rust. I would definitely give them a call. It sucks you have to deal with this.
Amsoil has a good undercoating spray. I used it on my daily driver which I do drive during winter months and actually it has done a pretty good job so far. It's relatively cheap at $8 a can, and you will probably use ABOUT 2 cans for the whole underside of the car. Respray once a year if driven in winter, otherwise I would respray once every two years.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx Read up on this, works well for my DD which I drive during winter months in PA.
Blu99T/A
05-13-2012, 02:15 PM
I just got done applying POR15 to everything I could get to on the bottom side of my car. I was just starting to see a few rust specs starting to appear. I did everything I could reach. Only bare areas I have now are behind the fuel/brake lines and between the subframe connectors and the body (wish I would have thought to done it years ago before installing the subframe connectors.)
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
Rare96LT1Formula
05-13-2012, 04:31 PM
I just got done applying POR15 to everything I could get to on the bottom side of my car. I was just starting to see a few rust specs starting to appear. I did everything I could reach. Only bare areas I have now are behind the fuel/brake lines and between the subframe connectors and the body (wish I would have thought to done it years ago before installing the subframe connectors.)
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
Any chance you took any before/after pics?
Did you powerwash/clean the undercarriage before applying the POR15 kit?
Blu99T/A
05-13-2012, 06:39 PM
Any chance you took any before/after pics?
Did you powerwash/clean the undercarriage before applying the POR15 kit?
I can get some after pics as it is still a little in the air, but to be honest, it is all black. lol I will try to get some.
I just scuffed, then sprayed wax/grease remover (same as you use for paint prep) and wiped it down 2 times before applying the POR15. Fortunately, the underside of mine was pretty clean.
I did drop the driveshaft to get up into the trans tunnel and I had the exhaust/headers off as I was in the process of placing/upgrading them.
Sponge brushes worked good for me.
Blu99T/A
05-13-2012, 06:58 PM
Here is a quick pic, not the prettiest, but it is coated and I still have some touching up to do.
http://i45.tinypic.com/257i1iu.jpg
lees02WS6
05-13-2012, 07:59 PM
Here's undercoating using rust bullet automotive
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x303/lees02ws6/Trans%20Am%20Pictures/Undercoat.jpg
Blu99T/A
05-13-2012, 09:24 PM
I wish I had the time to strip mine down as far as the one above to get every square inch. Very nice job.
ramair 1
05-13-2012, 09:32 PM
Ive used the eastwood products on several of my rides ,it works well.
Rare96LT1Formula
05-14-2012, 07:22 AM
Very nice!
Not 100% sure which route I'm going to go just yet, but at a bare minimum I'll be power washing/degreasing then applying a POR15/Eastwood type kit.
Blu99T/A
05-14-2012, 08:17 AM
Very nice!
Not 100% sure which route I'm going to go just yet, but at a bare minimum I'll be power washing/degreasing then applying a POR15/Eastwood type kit.
Wire brush to knock off any loose paint/rust/etc and Nitrile gloves as you do not want to get that stuff on you. Wear EYE protection, it is not fun to have a drop get in your eye as you lie under the car, ask me how I know. Lastly, wear clothes that you don't care about.
lees02WS6
05-14-2012, 10:51 AM
Blu99T/A has it right. Prep and safety. Ventilation is your friend, I also recommend wearing a 3m respirator (not an N95 mask). POR15 works well, and many are familiar with it, I posted the pic of the rust bullet just to illustrate the difference in finish. The prep between the two is similar.
Striker
05-14-2012, 02:37 PM
Cars like this are hard to find around Chicago at this point. Only super low mileage garage queens will be this clean, as any exposure to regular weather conditions around here will age the undercarrige very quickly. The other option would be to import a car from the south/southwest. Having said that, you'll probably still spend less making the trade to a rust free one rather than spending the money to actually restore the entire undercarrige of your current car. The price of a restoration (especially if you're not doing the work yourself) gets out of hand very quickly. If simply covering it with POR15 is acceptable to you though, then this will be the most affordable option.
My solution to this was to buy a second F-body for more regular use. The nice one just stays in the garage now, only coming out for the occasional show or perfect weather drive. Even on my garage queen, which has never been driven in rain, the bare metal areas still develop some minor surface rust (axle, uncoated bolts, etc.).....nothing of concern though.
THIS! I am in my 26th year, and have owned many cars considering my age and I've come to a conclusion. You *cannot* keep a car that has been out on the road MINTY MINT without any imperfections.
I was under my car today, and way way up in the lower rad support area, I saw some light surface rust AND a 2-4 inch area of surface rust on my K member closest to the wheel.
Just gotta live with it.