General Maintenance & Repairs - Help Car won't pass smog because of DTC stored in PCM!

Long story short my car threw a code for insufficient switching P1153. I swapped out the O2 sensor and cleared the code with a handheld scanner. I drove the car for 80 miles and the SES light did not come back on. I took it to get a smog and it passed everything except the Malfunction indicator light test. The paper says, "This vehicle failed the MIL/Check engine light due to failure to successfully complete all OBD self tests." My damn light is not on and the car has been run for about 100 miles now without it turning back on. How long/ how many drive cycles will it take for the code to be removed from the history of the PCM? I don't want to take it to get a smog again and fail because of this. I already flushed $50 down the crapper on this failed test, would like to know for sure that the code is definitely not there anymore before I take my car to get a smog again. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

My scanner is able to check the readiness tests so I would check to see if yours can do the same. If it doesn't, drive through one whole tank worth of gas to be sure or buy a scanner that reads those tests.

this worked perfectly for me to complete a the drive cycles. Make sure you follow it exactly.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

In addition to that just stop by one of your local parts stores like advance and check to see if you are in-fact emissions ready

Thanks for the link and for the heads up on the code scanner. I plugged it in last night and 3 of the self check were blinking. I tried to do the gm drive cycle on my way to work this morning but was limited on some parts of the cycle. Plugged my scanner in when I got to work and now only one is blinking. I'll try to do the drive cycle after work today. Thanks again for the help guys.

Let me get this straight. In Ca. if you fail your emisions you have to pay again to get it rechecked once it's fixed?

Wow. Never heard of that. Texas will only charge one time if this fails until fixed.

Depends on the shop you go to, I've never had to do that.

Wow. Never heard of that. Texas will only charge one time if this fails until fixed.

Every state is different. In IL, we don't have pay a penny for the test (as it should be).

Also in IL, you don't "fail" for having incomplete tests - you are rejected for the test and told to come back once you've driven the car more. You would only fail if you actually had an SES/MIL present. I know several other states are like this as well. In many states that do OBD scanning, you are allowed a certain amount of incomplete tests based on model year. Often times it's up to 2 incomplete tests for '96-'00, and only 1 incomplete test for '01+.

Wow the amount of inspection questions and issues that are coming up i hope rpm ws6 doesnt thing im bashing him. And i just posted this in another thread but here it goes again. The gm drive cycle link posted here is great but when it comes down to it theres no way to know what an exact drive cycle for your car will be ive seen cars go out and put 10 miles on a car and it come back as ready and ive had them drive 200+ miles before it gives a ready code. Unfortunately you may not be able to clear thhe dtc's with a handheld scanner. Some go in as permanent dtcs and even if the ses doesnt come on they may still be there. You generallyy need an mvci for your specific make of car and a laptop with the program to interface with the mvci to clear permanent dtc's from the vehicle.

Ya it is what it is in CA. The shop I went to was a hole in the wall place that probably could use my extra $50. I'm not going back again, I had to get to work and I saw the shops smog bay open so I figured I'd get it tested really quick. In retrospect I should have done my homework and used my scanner to see if all of the readiness checks were done. I told the guy I drove about 80 miles and he said that it was enough, again knowing what I know now I would have waited. Oh well, chalk it up to a learning experience.

Wow the amount of inspection questions and issues that are coming up i hope rpm ws6 doesnt thing im bashing him.

Why would I think that? :confused:

And i just posted this in another thread but here it goes again. The gm drive cycle link posted here is great but when it comes down to it theres no way to know what an exact drive cycle for your car will be ive seen cars go out and put 10 miles on a car and it come back as ready and ive had them drive 200+ miles before it gives a ready code.

I can't speak for every car (GM or otherwise), but I've owned/tested every model year of LS1 F-body that was built, and I've always been able to get every test to complete following that drive cycle - usually on the first try, and definitely on the second try. Granted, there are always exceptions, but generally you'll have no problem using that method with an LS1 (unless there is some issue preventing them from running).

If you really want specifics though, you can get a copy of the factory service manual. It specifically outlines the exact parameters to run every DTC that is supported. You can then follow those parameters for every DTC within a specific system to complete the test in short order. This is how the final road test would need to be done by the tech, to make sure that the issue is resolved if you bring a car in for service due to a failed emissions test with a MIL. If they needed to drive the car around randomly for 200+ miles to get all the tests to run, customers would be waiting a VERY long time to get their cars back. ;)

Well when a customer comes in and the car gives a not ready code we tell them to come bback in a day or so after driving the car. The 200+ miles statement comes from the people who wait a week or 2the before coming back and the car still isnt ready and they havve to drive it more. So no we dont ask people to sit there while we drive their car 200 miles. And maybe youve just been lucky. But i still stand by every car is diff even same make model and year ive seen them take different amount of mileage for a "drive cycle" even when going by the manufactuer reccomended drive cycle

Well when a customer comes in and the car gives a not ready code we tell them to come bback in a day or so after driving the car. The 200+ miles statement comes from the people who wait a week or 2the before coming back and the car still isnt ready and they havve to drive it more. So no we dont ask people to sit there while we drive their car 200 miles. And maybe youve just been lucky. But i still stand by every car is diff even same make model and year ive seen them take different amount of mileage for a "drive cycle" even when going by the manufactuer reccomended drive cycle

I'm not referring to emissions test centers, I'm referring to a repair shop tech. If you bring the car in for a failed emissions test due to a MIL, they will follow a process to determine what part has failed to set the MIL. Once the suspect part has been replaced, they will clear the MIL and must get that DTC to run again to make sure that the MIL does not return. In the factory service manual, there are specific paramaters outlined to run a given DTC (sometimes requiring that other DTCs have already been run first), and you can follow these parameters to get the DTC to run as quickly as possibile. The tech does not have the time to drive a car around for a week/200+ miles trying to get any given DTC to run before releasing the car to the customer, so there is always a way to expedite the process, as listed in the service manual.

That OBD GM drive cycle is just a broad way of covering most of the specifics found in the service manual, and it works pretty well in most cases. But there are in fact very specific parameters that, when met, will run a DTC immediately - and these parameters can be found in the factory service manual.

I dont work at an emissions test center i work at a dealership as a technician and the only people who ever drive a car for a readiness code is our shop foreman and thats only if it was caused by sommething we did ie replaced a battery or updated software in the car because we simply dont get paid to drive cars they look at it as us losing money. But in this case when the art has already been replaced and the dtc is still there that leaves us with a few options first make sure everything is connected properly and if so from there go to the laptop and clear the dtc manually then run the manufactuers drive cycle which is generally always good for seing if the ses light will reappear. But when it comes to readiness codes its almost always a tossup drive cycle complete or no

I dont work at an emissions test center i work at a dealership as a technician

I thought you were an inspector, as mentioned in the other thread:

Ive worked as an nc state inspector for the last year.

Do you do inspections at your dealer? In my state, you can't get an inspection done at a dealership by a tech, you must go to a specific ILEPA/Air Team test center, so I was confused about what you were referring to.

Either way, if you replace a part due to a MIL, you're going to have to clear the MIL and then get that DTC to run again to make sure the issue is resovled. At least that's how I've done it, though I don't work for a dealer. It would take too long to let the MIL clear on it's own. Point being, if you follow the parameters to run all DTCs (which the drive cycle is a broad summary of), it will/should expedite all the readiness monitors as well. Readiness monitors set as DTCs complete, whether they pass or fail is another matter.

Yeah in NC dealerships and shops can be liscensed by the dmv to do inspections and then its up to the shop or dealership to send their techs to the classes to get idividually liscensed to be an inspector and thats thhe case at hendrick where i work we have 7 techs that are inspectors and 26 who arent. Reason for that being one the cost to send the techs to get certified and two because we're only given 4 inspection machines by the dmv

Damn, I would hate to live in California. LOL!

Let me get this straight. In Ca. if you fail your emisions you have to pay again to get it rechecked once it's fixed?

Wow. Never heard of that. Texas will only charge one time if this fails until fixed.

In Texas I believe you get 15 days to bring it back, after that you have to pay again.

unplug your battery and touch the positive cable to the negative the light and all stored codes will go away

Yeah similar here you have 30 days in nc if the car fails after that not only do you have to pay again the dmv can fine you but yeah ive given that advice about the battery in previous posts. Sometimes it works sometimes it dont but its quick and doesnt cost anything so give it a shot

Scanner is showing that the last readiness test to be run is the "EVAP system monitor." After reading through the gm drive cycle list I did not see at which point this test actually runs, do any of you guys know off hand what the parameters are for the test to be run? I.e: 55-60mph for 3min., coasting down to 20mph, etc.?

Thats messed up so they do a mil test for emissions test, wow i guess cali emmisions are strict. I thought emissions test in my province were bad.In ontario we do a idle test, and a 40 km/h test and a gas cap test. You could have the dash lit up like a christmas tree as long as the tail pipe is clean your good to go. and its 39 dollars for a test and if it fails you can spend 450 dollars on emissions parts/ tune up and if it still dont pass you get a conditional pass good for 2 years. Just a government money grab, in a couple years they are going to do away with dyno and just do a 2 speed idle test.

Scanner is showing that the last readiness test to be run is the "EVAP system monitor." After reading through the gm drive cycle list I did not see at which point this test actually runs, do any of you guys know off hand what the parameters are for the test to be run? I.e: 55-60mph for 3min., coasting down to 20mph, etc.?

The steps in the drive cycle that refer to "purge" are referring to the EVAP system.

This is often the test that I hear people having problems with getting to run, but I've always managed to get it completed within 1-2 drive cycles on an LS1.

They used to have the tailpipe and dyno tests in IL, but from what I heard they were sick of paying for damages caused by inept techs, so they went strictly with an OBD test. The nice thing is the exempted all '95 and older vehicles. And they don't have visual inspections anymore; I know somebody that passed the scan test running open headers.:jest:

They used to have the tailpipe and dyno tests in IL, but from what I heard they were sick of paying for damages caused by inept techs, so they went strictly with an OBD test. The nice thing is the exempted all '95 and older vehicles. And they don't have visual inspections anymore; I know somebody that passed the scan test running open headers.:jest:

IL stopped the I/M240 (sniff) test due to registration of '95 and older cars dropping below 30% of total registered vehicles in the state, and this was several years ago. Prior to that, cars '67 and older were exempt, and/or cars registered as antique vehicles (original requirement was 20 years or older, then switched to 25 years or older), or cars with race car exemption status. I can only assume that they felt it was no longer cost effective to maintain the equpiment, since most cars on the road are able to be OBD tested. I'm not sure if lawsuits had anything to do with it, but I too have heard of several of these during the dyno-type test days.

There hasn't been a visual inspection in IL since at least the mid '90s, if ever.

I may be gloating a bit, but I like how I don't have to deal with any emission testing bullspit in TN. :D

I may be gloating a bit, but I like how I don't have to deal with any emission testing bullspit in TN. :D

Me either i work as an inspector in nc but i live in sc
by the way thanks for your prior service. Ive only got 3.5 years in but im gonna try and do 20 to retire

Me either i work as an inspector in nc but i live in sc
by the way thanks for your prior service. Ive only got 3.5 years in but im gonna try and do 20 to retire

Same to you. I only got in a bit over a year before the budget cuts got me. I'm going back to it as soon as I can. Hooah.

IL stopped the I/M240 (sniff) test due to registration of '95 and older cars dropping below 30% of total registered vehicles in the state, and this was several years ago. Prior to that, cars '67 and older were exempt, and/or cars registered as antique vehicles (original requirement was 20 years or older, then switched to 25 years or older), or cars with race car exemption status. I can only assume that they felt it was no longer cost effective to maintain the equpiment, since most cars on the road are able to be OBD tested. I'm not sure if lawsuits had anything to do with it, but I too have heard of several of these during the dyno-type test days.

There hasn't been a visual inspection in IL since at least the mid '90s, if ever.

In 2013 California is moving to a new type of SMOG test that supposedly is similar to the OBD tests that 22 other states use. They will no longer do the tailpipe emissions testing because the cost to maintain the equipment is not worth the emission reductions and time.

Well I still can't get the final EVAP self test to finish. I've put about 360 miles on the car. Mixed city driving, and a couple of trips on the highway. My question is since my car is tuned is it possible that something could have been turned off that won't let the EVAP complete it's self test? Also on the driving cycle, do all of the steps have to be done back to back? I have a M6 so on part 2 when I accelerate at 1/2 throttle do I start in first and row up through the gears and leave it in fourth for the 3 min at 55 mph or should I put the car in 4th around 20 mph and go 1/2 throttle until 55 mph that way I'm not switching gears?

Aren't you in California? Usually you're allowed to have one or two tests not ready. Talk to your shop.

I tried looking up the exact rule on the "readiness tests" on BAR's website and could not find anything specific referring to the specific amount of "not ready" monitor's. Through google search and reading various websites and forums, I keep on seeing that 96-00 are allowed 2 "not ready" and 01-new are allowed only one "not ready." I must have had 3 not ready flags when I got my first smog. I will probably end up calling BAR to make sure before I go to another SMOG shop and talk to a "tech" who says it will be fine, run the test, and then fail again due to the EVAP test not being ready and be out another $50. But, if someone on here knows for sure I'd love to read this from a knowledgable member on tech. Thanks guys.

It's possibile that tuning could cause a readiness monitor to stay in an incomplete state, depending on how the SES light was turned off for certain DTCs. Different software/verisons of software are worded differently, but you can either turn off the SES light/set to "Type X" for a given DTC (what you should do), or shut down the entire test for a given DTC (what you shouldn't do, if you need to pass a scan test). The goal is to let the test/DTC stay active, but disable only the SES light for said DTC.

Having said that, unless you have deleted EVAP on your car, I'm not sure why any tuning would have been done to EVAP related DTCs.

In IL we can have 2 "not ready" for '96-00, and 1 "not ready" for '01+. Something along these lines seems to be pretty common for the states that do OBD scan tests. But you should definitely verify what the CA rules are before assuming anything.

in ny you are allowed 1 not-ready status and newyork is pretty similar to cali i just live upstate so no sniffer test for me

I will call tomorrow and verify. Once I know for sure, I will post up so all of the tech members from ca can know for sure. Thanks for the help guys, I'll be sure to post the results.

Just got off of the phone with a BAR technician and he confirmed that, 96-00 vehicles can have 2 readiness monitors in the "not ready" state and 01-new vehicles can have 1 readiness monitor in the "not ready" state and still pass Smog. I'll be taking the car in today hopefully everything goes well. Thanks again for the help guys.

Long story short my car threw a code for insufficient switching P1153. I swapped out the O2 sensor and cleared the code with a handheld scanner. I drove the car for 80 miles and the SES light did not come back on. I took it to get a smog and it passed everything except the Malfunction indicator light test. The paper says, "This vehicle failed the MIL/Check engine light due to failure to successfully complete all OBD self tests." My damn light is not on and the car has been run for about 100 miles now without it turning back on. How long/ how many drive cycles will it take for the code to be removed from the history of the PCM? I don't want to take it to get a smog again and fail because of this. I already flushed $50 down the crapper on this failed test, would like to know for sure that the code is definitely not there anymore before I take my car to get a smog again. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

your handheld should be able to check the monitors. check them. they all need to be ready if 2000 or newer i think.

Let me get this straight. In Ca. if you fail your emisions you have to pay again to get it rechecked once it's fixed?

Wow. Never heard of that. Texas will only charge one time if this fails until fixed.

anywhere that there's privatly operated inspeciton. i think pa is like that.....most shops i know of here in nj are like that......

Good luck I'm sure you'll be fine.

I took my car in this morning and talked to the tech at the smog shop he confirmed that my car was allowed 2 "not ready" monitors since it's a '98. They did their thing and the car passed the sniffer with flying colors and everything else went smooth. Passed smog... finally. Thanks for all of the help guys, hopefully if anyone has trouble with readiness monitors they will be able to read through this thread and know the exact parameters required to pass smog in ca. In retrospect, if you ever have any questions do a quick google search and pick up the phone to call somewhere that can accurately answer your questions. If I would have done that in the first place, I wouldn't have thrown away $50. I'll chalk it up to a learning experience.