Carbureted LSX forum - My LM7 build into a 1994 Silverado

1994 Silverado stepside currently with a 350 TIB and 4L60E
My soon to be Sleeper
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-01092857.jpg

Engine and trans parts that are going in:
862 heads milled 0.015, 45 degree cut valves and with LS6 springs
Edelbrock Performer RPM Carb'd LS1 Intake manifold
Holley 750cfm double pumper carb
Holley Fuel pressure regulator
K&N Xstream 14" air cleaner
Comp cams Thumpr Cam
MSD 6LS ignition
Dirty Dingo engine mounts
LT Headers 2" primary's
(2) SLP Loudmouth mufflers
GM flywheel adapter with longer bolts to use my early 4L60E, thats right a carb with a 4L60E.
Transgo HD2 Shift Kit and Corvette servo

I have had a lot of work set out for me to clean this engine, here are the pics.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-03-31210628.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-03-31210637.jpg

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http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-18144017.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-21221817.jpg

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http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-26193535.jpg

Found a hole in the timing cover, source of most of the oil on the engine

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-26193603.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-04-30203840.jpg

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http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-02154357.jpg

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http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-02160023.jpg

Broken harmonic damper
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-05161856.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-06143453.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-06152918.jpg

As it lays now
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-06155552.jpg

I will probably finish the painting next week and start putting it together

Carb and 4L60? Never heard of it:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t74/ZONES89RS/52dfcfea.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t74/ZONES89RS/fc55e4f1.jpg

That controller was 550$ or so.

what headers? I used the Schoenfeld 1 3/4 3 inch collectors, where are you getting 2 inch primaries?

I am going to hook up the stock TPS to my carb and allow my existing computer control the trans.
I bought the headers from someone on another forum. He said they are a custom set from Schoenfeld and are made to be able to reach the rear spark plugs.

I am using a earlier TPS, the 86-91, works great, and the hand held tunes everything, also allow lock up and performance shifting at the flick of a button/switch if you like. Dont think the older 4L60 that was in it would have lived behind this motor, yours probably wont live behind the larger engine you have with a cam.

Do your headers look like mine?:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t74/ZONES89RS/headersschoen.jpg

These are the ones I got:
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/Headers.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/5.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/4.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/3.jpg

I am putting in a HD2 shift kit and a corvette servo to help the trans for about a year untill I can pick up a T-56 to swap in.

Awesome build you have going on there. My first attempt at LS swaps was a 6.0 earlier this year that I ripped out of an 03 3500 Express. Poerted 862s and a .629 lift Comp cam got me an 11.34 first pass in a 78 Malibu. Lot lighter than your truck but something tells me speed will come.

Well, keep us updated on that Trans, I think it will die fairly quickly if you drive like me.

Awesome build you have going on there. My first attempt at LS swaps was a 6.0 earlier this year that I ripped out of an 03 3500 Express. Poerted 862s and a .629 lift Comp cam got me an 11.34 first pass in a 78 Malibu. Lot lighter than your truck but something tells me speed will come.

What MPH? Did a 6.0 in a Malibu with heads I touched up, only flowed 270ish, stock 317s, did 7.3 with 3.42 gears. Think it hit 96 mph? Had the torqer v2 cam, th350 with a 3500 converter.

Awesome build you have going on there. My first attempt at LS swaps was a 6.0 earlier this year that I ripped out of an 03 3500 Express. Poerted 862s and a .629 lift Comp cam got me an 11.34 first pass in a 78 Malibu. Lot lighter than your truck but something tells me speed will come.

Very nice track time. I would be happy with a low 13 second pass.

Cool build!

I took that long filler neck off my valve cover and the cap fits right on there.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2ug1g6t.jpg

Ancient Chinese secret;)

Cool build!

I took that long filler neck off my valve cover and the cap fits right on there.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2ug1g6t.jpg

How the heck did you get it off? Mine feels like it is glued on there and is going to break when I try to twist it with pliers.

i dont know if you are going to do the tranny or you know someone that does but i would suggest giving the tranny a once over before you put it in and i would also upgrade to a beast sunshell

i dont know if you are going to do the tranny or you know someone that does but i would suggest giving the tranny a once over before you put it in and i would also upgrade to a beast sunshell

Got a local shop here who said they would do a look over and install the HD2 shift kit, corvette serve and a filter for around $200. I will look into the sunshell, thanks for the advice.

Painted the other side of the block today. I will probably paint the timing cover I just got in the mail and some other misc pieces in the next few days. I will probably install the cam and put the heads on within the next week.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-14134234.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-14140951.jpg

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http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-14193121.jpg

did ya just scuff the block or completely strip the factory coating of..?

I wire brush and carb cleaner the funk off.

I used a wire brush attachment on my drill and vigoriously scrubbed the block and cleaned it with mineral spirits. The factory paint is on there very well so it stayed on.

Got a better pic of the block, looks a bit reddish under my garage lights but it is Chevy Orange.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-15183054.jpg

Did a little mock up to see where I need to paint more
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-20125120.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-20125111.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2012-05-20125057.jpg

Wow, it's been awhile since I posted on my build thread. It's been a crazy year. Anyway, i've got alot done and it's almost ready. I am going to try and start it this week. I have added a few things and am getting excited. Heres what it looks like right now.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-13_22_21_43_zpsd4051b94.jpg

Nice, now get that thing in there.

Nice, now get that thing in there.

x2. Cant wait to see this thing get done. similar to the swap im doing if I can ever get enough time to get everything done.

Hey Zones89RS, did you have to hot-wire your fuel pump when you put the carb on your camaro? I am planning on just using my factory fuel and return line. I have a Holley Billet Fuel pressure regulator with a return line. I am going to hook up the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel line to lower the factory 15 PSI to 6.5 or 7 PSI. I am assuming that the fuel pump on these TBI engines are dummy pumps that are at a constant 15 PSI correct? So I should be able to leave my ignition system and fuel system alone right?

Always dropped the tanks on my third gens. Installed a in line external. But, on my TB 94 gmc, I Hotwire into the ignition and allow it to come on with the key, ran the bypass and it was and has been good for a long while.

I just looked over this build. I would love to do a 408 stroker someday myself. I never put a engine together but I think there is so much information and enough locals to help. You did an amazing job and the paint sceme reminds me of the lsx which is awesome. That is alot of elbow grease lol.

It's been a long build, thanks for the compliments. I pulled out the engine and trans from my truck 2 days ago and I decided to man up and install the transgo HD2 shift kit and corvette servo myself. I'm glad I did because I found a large spring on the 2nd accumulator broken in half.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-25153509.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-25153501.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-25153457.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-25140921.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-25133242.jpg

Now your getting somewhere!

Got the motor and trans in. I can't believe how hard it was to line up the motor mount plate with the polyurethane motor mounts, it took 3 hours to get the two bolts in. I had to shave off part of the bell housing on the trans to make the headers fit too.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-26120117.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-26154218.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-26174026.jpg

Whats next:
Hot wire fuel pump
wire battery and starter
run linkage to carburetor
run fuel lines
put back fenders, core support and radiator
run the steamer port somewhere
run the PVC somewhere
top off fluids

I am now in need of some LS1Tech support!
I have pretty much everything wired up. I want to confirm that I placed the MSD 12v wire and tach wire in the correct place and confirm if I am tapping into the correct wire to hotwire the fuel pump.

This is the old plug to the coil, it is a white wire and a red one. I ran the MSD to the red one and the yellow MSD tach wire to the white one.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27172805.jpg


Here is the fuel pump relay. Am I to run the same red coil hot wire to the Grey fuel pump wire?
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171602.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171553.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171643.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171629.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171548.jpg

Run the red wire to the ignition, run a wire from the fuse box that come on with the key. White wire to tach output for ingition controller.

Run the red wire to the ignition, run a wire from the fuse box that come on with the key. White wire to tach output for ingition controller.

Ok i got the red one from the msd to the red one from the old coil. i got the msd yellow tach signal to the white wire from the old coil.
Do you mean the power on ignition fron the fuse box to the gray wire for the fuel pump?

Yep, find a spot in the fuse box that goes hot with the ignition being keyd to the on position. That is how mine is.

Yep, find a spot in the fuse box that goes hot with the ignition being keyd to the on position. That is how mine is.

Did you still leave all the other wires pluged in to the fuel pump relay? Or did you just cut the gray wire and run the 12v off of the fuse box to the gray wire? For some reason I see myself screwing this simple thing up and messing up my fuel pump, sorry for all the questions.

your build looks killer keep it up. iam goin carburated in my 98 transam soon, my build will be up shortly next week the tear down begins

Did you still leave all the other wires pluged in to the fuel pump relay? Or did you just cut the gray wire and run the 12v off of the fuse box to the gray wire? For some reason I see myself screwing this simple thing up and messing up my fuel pump, sorry for all the questions.

Answering questions is why I am here. But yes, I did nothing but run the wire to the gray fuel pump wire, left everything else in tact.

your build looks killer keep it up. iam goin carburated in my 98 transam soon, my build will be up shortly next week the tear down begins

thanks man, its been a fun build. Make sure you get the MSD box and not the edelbrock box for your carb setup. It is so easy to run.

Thanks Zone, i'm going to try it around 2pm today and see if it works. I realized I have to get a smaller belt now because I used my old alternator. Hopefully I can find that today.

Used a stock belt with my stock alternator. The tensioner took the slack fine.

If your using the stock in tank pump just leave all the relays and stuff alone. Adapt the oil pressure gauge sender. Get a holley regulator use the lower port as the inlet from the stock pump. Route one of the side ports to the carb and route the other to the return line. The trick is to put a restriction in the return side and drill a 1/16" hole in it to limit the amount of fuel returning to cool the pump and bleed of pressure. Then just set with a pressure guage to 6.5 PSI.

I got my stock belt to work, was looking at it the wrong way. I have a holley billet fuel pressure regulator with a return line that I am using. I drove the truck this morning, I got about a mile before the temp got up to around 220F. Either the thermostat is stuck or my radiator lines are crossed. I used my stock 1994 radiator. I am on a 24hr shift today so tomorrow I will give it another shot.

Make sure the block has coolant in it. I had that happen to me before. I am sure you already know that. Just a thought. Nice swap and goodluck with it.

I looked at some set ups today and realized i crossed the radiator lines, easy fix. I will try to fix that tomorrow. Man what a different feeling it is driving a vehicle with a mild stall converter. I can't wait to fix the bugs and get my SLP Loudmouth II's welded up.

You fill the block through the water pump? That's how I do it.

You fill the block through the water pump? That's how I do it.

I just filled the radiator up and continued to top it off over an hour while gravity moved it in a bit. Is that not sufficient enough?

So I got the heating problem taken care of. I took it for a drive and anything above 3200 rpm it misses and pops. I checked and have power to every spark plug and am not losing fuel pressure, it stays at 7 1/2 psi. What else am I missing?

Should be 6.5. How does the carb look? New? Used?

Should be 6.5. How does the carb look? New? Used?

The carb is a used 4160 style 750cfm vacuum secondary that I sent out and had completly rebuilt and converted to a 4150 style carb. They tuned it according to all the specs I had on my truck. I pulled two plugs and noticed that it is very rich, so it must be flooding the engine over 3200 rpm. tomorrow I will lower the PSI on the carb to 6 and try it again.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-31180129_zps5b7bb5b8.jpg

That looks like a fat idle mixture.

That looks like a fat idle mixture.

I reduced the idle till it almost stalled and still had a studder at 3200 rpm's

Idle mixture not set idle screw. Anyway, you have a wide band o2 setup? Will severly help tuning.

Idle mixture not set idle screw. Anyway, you have a wide band o2 setup? Will severly help tuning.

I am going to mess with it probably tomorrow and try and lean out the idle mixture. I don't have a wide band yet but have been in the market for one. I plan on taking it to a dyno shop in the next month or so to get it dyno tuned.

Wide band will help you figure out what is going on with the breaking up.

I messed with the carb a bit today and noticed my accelerator pump is very stiff, I took the bottom off and everything is in its place and the spring is fine. I think the port might be clogged up. I am going to try and pull it all apart tomorrow or tuesday and figure it out.

Wide band will help you figure out what is going on with the breaking up.

How do you get the O2 to work on a carbed setup with a MSD 6010? Where do I get the parts?

If the accelerator pump is clogged it will lean out severly.

Wide bands work with efi or carb. They just read spent mixture. I get mine off eBay.

I took apart the accelerator pump assembly and found that the needle just before the discharge port was stuck and not allowing any fuel to flow past. I got it out and cleaned it up. Before I did this my truck would start instantly and now I can't get it started at all, oh what fun this is. I leaned out the idle mixture alot and still I can't seem to get it fired up now.

After a bunch of research I am leaning towards the power valve possibly being blown. I will pull it apart maybe tomorrow and see. What am I physically looking for to see if it is blown?

The diaphragm being ruptured.

If you leaned it too far out it is not getting fuel. Screw the idle mixture set screws all the way in and then back them out 1 and a half turns as a base starting point.

The diaphragm being ruptured.

If you leaned it too far out it is not getting fuel. Screw the idle mixture set screws all the way in and then back them out 1 and a half turns as a base starting point.

I've tried that, i can smell the fuel and it makes a mist of fuel when I stop turning it over. I seems to be dumping alot of fuel.

So I pulled the carb apart and found that the power valve diaphragm was shot. So I replaced that and tried to start it this morning. It still wont start and it has begun to drip fuel from in between the rear engine and trans bellhousing. I cannot find where it is coming from and there is no leaks on the fuel lines, where the heck is it coming from?

So I had a ton of fuel in the oil. I believe the blown power valve dumped so much fuel after my many attemps to get her started again. So there was alot of fuel in the oil and it sucks that I found this out after it began to leak from the rear. So I am assuming it blew the rear main seal. I drained the oil and put fresh oil in and it started right up. I drove it around the block and it ran better than it ever has. After I pulled in the driveway i had about 1 drop of oil every 5 seconds coming off the rear of the oil pan. I am hoping that is just residual leaking out but am thinking the rear main seal is blown. What do y'all think?

Think I would spray the back down with brake cleaner and wipe it down. Then give it a another drive. Forgot to mention the stupidid power valve. I always assume everyone has power valve blow out protection.

Think I would spray the back down with brake cleaner and wipe it down. Then give it a another drive. Forgot to mention the stupidid power valve. I always assume everyone has power valve blow out protection.

Yeah the power valve was shot, it is still running rich, but better. I have to get the dyno tune soon.

On another note, the truck is in the shop getting the exhaust done. I asked the guy to just dump the exhaust on the passenger side because I don;t have much money to spend. So the guy was like no problem. I just went by the shop and he has gone crazy with it. He wanted it to look great so he has it running true dual and doing dual exit tips before the rear tires on both sides. It looks amazing so far. It will be done tomorrow, I will upload pics.

I run a y pipe single exit. No reason for duals if you are not trying to make max power. But of he isn't charging you more, sounds great.

I run a y pipe single exit. No reason for duals if you are not trying to make max power. But of he isn't charging you more, sounds great.

The best part is that I told him I wanted access to the transmission. He wanted to weld the pipe straight to the headers so it works great. The exhaust is completly out of the way so it will work well.

Got the exhaust done today, it's getting dark so I will try to get pics tomorrow. It sounds amazing. I finally gave it a half throttle shot at around 30mph and the truck went sideways, it runs like a bat out of hell. Still needs a tune and I am dropping the transmission this weekend to fix the rear main seal. I can't wait for the dyno tune.

That's great man. In for pics.

Sorry for the delay, been working. Here is the exhaust setup, it is a true dual setup and is set up the same on both sides.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-02-25181108_zps12b8649b.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-02-25181118_zps4af633f8.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-02-25181128_zpsf327d5a1.jpg

I like the smaller twin exhaust tips like on the Cobra R. I will get those when I get a bit more cash.

Now on to my oil leak! I need your help to give me an idea on how to solve the problem. When I disassembled the engine, the two long rear oil pan bolt HOLES that are in the rear engine cover were stripped. I HELI coiled them and had no problem reaching 112 ft Lbs of torque when I installed the oil pan. Anyway, the engine has been leaking even when not running from the rear of the oil pan and I thought the rear main seal didn't seat. I pulled off the bottom trans cover today and saw that it is steadily leaking from the oil pan gasket around the two long rear oil pan bolts. I am guessing that because I drilled the holes out bigger and installed the coils, the blue seating ring on the oil pan gasket is not getting pinched between the oil pan and rear timing cover.

So I need some solution ideas besides the obvious and replace the rear cover. I will replace it the next time I remove the transmission. The only idea I can come up with is removing the two bolts and filling the hole up with RTV gasket sealer and then reinstalling the bolts. What do you all think?

Did you happen to tighten the rear cover before the oil pan? You are supposed to tighten the pan and then tighten the rear cover. Maybe you have a gap from not following that proceidure.

Did you happen to tighten the rear cover before the oil pan? You are supposed to tighten the pan and then tighten the rear cover. Maybe you have a gap from not following that proceidure.

Followed it 100% to the book specs

I got my oil pan off yesterday. The gasket was destroyed. The blue rubber pieces were tore off in multiple places. Not sure how that happened, it was a new gasket and it was installed on the engine while on a stand. I followed the factory specs. How does the rubber tear off in like 5 different places. There was a bunch blue rubber pieced in the oil pan.

Your build is looking good! I'll be doing a similar swap in my 92 Chevy stepside. Do you have any plans for the rearend?

Your build is looking good! I'll be doing a similar swap in my 92 Chevy stepside. Do you have any plans for the rearend?

I already have 3.73 gears in the garage, just need a good LSD and probably strange shafts.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-01-27171548.jpg

Beautiful engine... but it's like putting a diamond in a turd. Did you ever consider cleaning up the engine compartment and alternator?

Beautiful engine... but it's like putting a diamond in a turd. Did you ever consider cleaning up the engine compartment and alternator?

As though he doesn't have enough details to contend with already. :rolleyes: I didn't see a show truck at the start of the thread. Are you offering to come down there and help him remove all the engine compartment items to clean, scrape, sand, and refinish those items? Taking on these projects, sometimes, can be overwhelming. Not everyone has the time and money to go balls deep in everything they touch. Especially true with guys who take on several projects at one time.

OP your making good progress congratulations. :thumb:

I got my oil pan off yesterday. The gasket was destroyed. The blue rubber pieces were tore off in multiple places. Not sure how that happened, it was a new gasket and it was installed on the engine while on a stand. I followed the factory specs. How does the rubber tear off in like 5 different places. There was a bunch blue rubber pieced in the oil pan.

When the gas thinned out the oil.. I think it thinned it out so much that the seals could not contain the fluids. The pressurized mixture exiting the seals wiped out the gasket materials. I'm hoping for your sake none of the bearings were messed up in all this.

Beautiful engine... but it's like putting a diamond in a turd. Did you ever consider cleaning up the engine compartment and alternator?

Just put a new alternator on last week. That was in the mix, just didn't get to it in the time of the pic. My whole idea with this truck is to use it as a testing mule for a good engine and transmission. I plan on getting the engine and trans just right and driving it for awhile until I find a nice 1970-1973 camaro shell to transfer it over to.

When the gas thinned out the oil.. I think it thinned it out so much that the seals could not contain the fluids. The pressurized mixture exiting the seals wiped out the gasket materials. I'm hoping for your sake none of the bearings were messed up in all this.

I thought of that as a possibility. I will post the pics in a minute of the oil pan gasket and see what you think.

Only about 40 miles on this gasket

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-04-01203351_zpsf5ffbedc.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-04-01203337_zps32444a69.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/ChrisLaBarbera/2013-04-01203333_zpsbabda303.jpg

I have always reused the oil pan gaskets, never a issue. That is pretty wierd.

I have always reused the oil pan gaskets, never a issue. That is pretty wierd.

And that one is brand new. That happened after only 40 miles of driving.

what did you use to clean you pistons? they look new!!

what did you use to clean you pistons? they look new!!

A wire bristle attachment for my drill and mineral spirits, the carbon came off very easily.

Always dropped the tanks on my third gens. Installed a in line external. But, on my TB 94 gmc, I Hotwire into the ignition and allow it to come on with the key, ran the bypass and it was and has been good for a long while.

Did you put an in line pump in your 94 GMC? If so how did you set it up with the factory in tank pump? When I do my swap in my 92 I want to upgrade my pump for my nitrous and I was curious how you did it.

No, I just used the stock in tank pump. Do yourself a favor and run a dedicated tank for high octane race fuel and dedicated pump for the nitrous. It is worth it.

Looks great.

Shes alive! I finished installing a new oil pan gasket on today, what a pain that is with the engine still in the truck. I got 60 PSI of pressure within about 2 seconds. Oil pressure stayed great. No leaks at all. I let it run for about 15 minutes and it did great. I made a video that I am trying to post so you can hear how it sounds, it is still untuned and running very rich. I am so glad the oil pump wasn't shot.

http://youtu.be/3ERgD9pNzSI

Sounds good

Sounds great man! Makes me wanna stuff a cam into my 94 with the 4.8.

One of the next things will be a B&M truck mega shifter and transgo HD3 shift kit to remove all the electronics on the trans.

Trucks sounds freakin good & looks good under the hood, lol

Trucks sounds freakin good & looks good under the hood, lol

And I love that about it. When I pull up to a light its hilarious seeing people looking around for the "muscle car".

So the engine is running great so far. I knew my trans was gonna go out soon, it has been an issue even before this engine. First and third gear work great. Second engages and works but slips with anything over 1/4 throttle. I spoke with Jeff at TruTechTrans about custom building me a stage 3 trans. I am looking at doing this within the next 2 to 3 months. I am hoping 1st and 3rd hold out that long. I am going to have the transgo HD3 full manual kit installed with the rebuild and will be putting in a B&M megashifter.

did you use your stock oil pressure sending unit? etc unit? what adapters did you get