Gears & Axles - 10 bolt with LPW Girdle & Axle Tube Brace

Installed with pics, didn't cost much so we will see how time will tell..

Blew my carrier up a few weeks ago, got a used one on here cheap + LPW Ultimate Girdle & Axle tube brace kit for the 10 bolt. Had to have the the drivers side brace cut since it didn't fit and requires some welding for brackets. Pics below.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/551758_10151105785029278_783249277_13632041_365816 087_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/579886_10151105785159278_783249277_13632043_400775 641_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/533044_10151105785249278_783249277_13632044_384463 596_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/550505_10151105785379278_783249277_13632046_153123 529_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/580039_10151105785534278_783249277_13632047_133682 9732_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/579270_10151105785629278_783249277_13632048_168646 1855_n.jpg

I had a choice of either spending like $2000-$2500 for a 12bolt or 9inch with posi and everything I wanted.. or spending like $300 to rebuild the 10 bolt and also slap a girdle and this brace on it. I only go to the track sometimes, not often, so I went the $300 way.. lol

Im interested in this setup, I have been contemplated this little setup.

Im interested in this setup, I have been contemplated this little setup.

It isn't a bad choice and I noticed no one has seemed to try it out in the past for 10 bolts. So I figured I would try it based on the low price.

I am interested in this idea as well. I saw it first here http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/transmissions-drivetrain/397601-bullet-proof-10-bolt.html, but he put in 2.73 gears for extra strength, which I am not about to do on a NA car with a 6spd. Talk about being a dog off the line.

Only time will tell how it holds up. Please keep us updated and let us know if it blows up, lol. Subscribed!

Yea 2.73's would be way to dead haha. I enjoy my 4.10s to much! I'm thinking this will be fine for street, drag radials is still another story but we will see how long it lasts

I'm also seriously considering this. I have a set of 3.73's sitting under my desk & was gonna have my rear freshened up when I do my auto swap. With the auto already being nicer to the 10-bolt than the T56, this extra support on the caps & axle tubes might just be a cost effective route for the 10-bolt as long as people dont expect to strap on a 28" slick & hammer it at the track off the transbrake, LOL

Yea by no means would I say this makes the 10 bolt drag radial ready for the strip but I would say it makes it reliable enough for street tires. Some people including me have broken the rear end on street tires before, this I think would fix most of that. It's cheap and can easily sell the parts if you do break the rear anyways lol.

I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.

I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.

Both cars use drag radials.

IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.

Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.

I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.

I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.

Both cars use drag radials.

IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.

Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.

Mark, are your cars autos or manuals? If either are manuals, which one(s)?

Yea by no means would I say this makes the 10 bolt drag radial ready for the strip but I would say it makes it reliable enough for street tires. Some people including me have broken the rear end on street tires before, this I think would fix most of that. It's cheap and can easily sell the parts if you do break the rear anyways lol.

Oh yea, with a 6-speed it'll pop on stock power easily. I already toasted one rear myself. Thats another reason I'm goin auto. I had a buddy that was running drag radials not slicks on a 100 shot & full bolt-ons for several years before he needed a tranny rebuild & the rear was never broke.

Auto cars are alot more forgiving on these little 10-bolts. You can actually make one live for quite a while with minor upgrades as long as its behind a auto car & your not running full slicks. Drag radials should be a problem though.

I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.

I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.

Both cars use drag radials.

IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.

Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.

That's nice to hear, we didn't weld the tubes because it seemed like a bunch of work to drop the rear. I got the min clearance one that was supposedly for our cars. They did mention to me that I may have to cut to fit as I like though. The drivers side was cut because there was no place to put it unless it was cut.

Mark, are your cars autos or manuals? If either are manuals, which one(s)?

Both are autos.

FWIW - the Z28 is in the middle of an L33 swap with a 76mm turbo. Expecting high nines in the mid 130s, and have no plans to touch the 10 bolt.

And I hate to say it, but to anyone that's broken a 10 bolt in a near stock car, street tires or not, they'e doing something VERY wrong. They're often the same people that spend $3000 on a 12 bolt or 9" and end up breaking them too.

Both are autos.

FWIW - the Z28 is in the middle of an L33 swap with a 76mm turbo. Expecting high nines in the mid 130s, and have no plans to touch the 10 bolt.

And I hate to say it, but to anyone that's broken a 10 bolt in a near stock car, street tires or not, they'e doing something VERY wrong. They're often the same people that spend $3000 on a 12 bolt or 9" and end up breaking them too.

Your auto though, so it's different for you lol. M6's break the rear MUCH easier then autos. In a near stock car or even bone stock, if you throw drag radials on and are going to try and cut 1.6 60fts with the car, most likely that 10 bolt is going to break if it's a manual car. Auto, probably wouldn't.

Yea by no means would I say this makes the 10 bolt drag radial ready for the strip but I would say it makes it reliable enough for street tires. Some people including me have broken the rear end on street tires before, this I think would fix most of that. It's cheap and can easily sell the parts if you do break the rear anyways lol.

There should be no reason street driving should break even a 10 bolt, dead hooking at the track different story. I cant see why that brace & cover would be necessary unless you plan on doing sticky track launches.

There should be no reason street driving should break even a 10 bolt, dead hooking at the track different story. I cant see why that brace & cover would be necessary unless you plan on doing sticky track launches.

that's definitely true, ... although in my case wheel hoping is what destroyed my rear the first time around. Honestly, i didn't find out about this LPW setup till after i installed the TA girdle. I'll be keeping an eye out to see how it holds up :)

There should be no reason street driving should break even a 10 bolt, dead hooking at the track different story. I cant see why that brace & cover would be necessary unless you plan on doing sticky track launches.

I broke my rear shifting into 4th on the street lol. On street tires even.

I broke my rear shifting into 4th on the street lol. On street tires even.

No, you broke it before that, and continued driving on it anyway.

Does the brace actually add any benefit? It seems like it's a placebo.

i cant tell. did you upgrade your torque arm and panhard rod? i did when i had my 4.10s installed.

i cant tell. did you upgrade your torque arm and panhard rod? i did when i had my 4.10s installed.

No, the only other suspension I have is relocation brackets & lower control arms that I'm putting on probably monday or when I get time.

No, the only other suspension I have is relocation brackets & lower control arms that I'm putting on probably monday or when I get time.

yea, i have LCAs and brackets. my spohn ATA not only looks good but its a very nice part and a panhard rod wasnt expensive so i added that. my end links were shot so those were replaced too.

with my MTs it should plant nicely.

Yea maybe in time I'll add those but for now im gonna see how it is with just these.

that's definitely true, ... although in my case wheel hoping is what destroyed my rear the first time around. Honestly, i didn't find out about this LPW setup till after i installed the TA girdle. I'll be keeping an eye out to see how it holds up :)

Wheelhop will do it. This rear girdle brace setup looks flimsy & not very effective. Time will tell.
No, you broke it before that, and continued driving on it anyway.

That makes more sense.

This rear girdle brace setup looks flimsy & not very effective.

It's actually been done before with good success. It helps keep the axle tubes from walking forward under traction and pulling the ring gear away from the pinion, which is one of the common failures in the 10 bolt. This guy was putting about 500whp to the ground in a 3rd gen and did basically the same setup, although his build was more involved with Moser axles and a few other tricks. To my knowledge, it is still going strong and he abuses it at the track with 4K clutch dumps on drag radials. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/transmissions-drivetrain/397601-bullet-proof-10-bolt.html I posted this link earlier in the thread but you may not have seen it.

Wheelhop will do it. This rear girdle brace setup looks flimsy & not very effective. Time will tell.

It def isn't flimsy, not to mention LPW makes some of the best girdles around to begin with, they are known for that. One of the biggest failures in our cars is the spider gears, but that is because of the axle tubes flexing as said above. Welding tubes &/or putting a brace on the tubes to keep them solid and not flexing under hard acceleration would be a good way to spare those spider gears.

That makes more sense.

He stated in another thread that the rear was clunking and popping badly before it completely grenaded the diff.

where can I get one of these set up at

He stated in another thread that the rear was clunking and popping badly before it completely grenaded the diff.

True, but I haven't been to the track since last year which would still mean it started the clunky noise from street tires on the street at some point lol.

where can I get one of these set up at

Google lpwracing, first result. The ultimate cover has holes for the brace tube kit also.

where to get this brace and cover

Google lpwracing, first result. The ultimate cover has holes for the brace tube kit also.

Thanks

I would just post the link, but since they aren't a sponsor I don't think I should. But yea, just google lpw racing and you will find the site.

I've been waiting to see results from this myself, but I'm M6.

Hell, maybe I'm just trying to justify putting off the inevitable.....

I've been waiting to see results from this myself, but I'm M6.


So is the OP.

I've been beating on it for a bit now but I won't know for sure how it's doing till I throw some drag radials on and use it the rest of the summer. Reason why I'm doing this is because I have a bottle here waiting to go on with a 150shot as well sooo I kinda want some extra backup on the rear even though I won't be spraying in first.

I've been waiting to see results from this myself, but I'm M6.

Hell, maybe I'm just trying to justify putting off the inevitable.....

So is the OP.

I know.

I'm just saying, it's nice to see someone go ahead with an idea and give it a try. I've been on the fence about this for a while now, but there isn't much info out there on an F-Body.

Kudos to you, OP.

I know.

I'm just saying, it's nice to see someone go ahead with an idea and give it a try. I've been on the fence about this for a while now, but there isn't much info out there on an F-Body.

Kudos to you, OP.

Gotcha. Yeah, I have been wondering about this idea as well, especially after my M6 swap. I just really don't want to shell out 2K+ for a new or used 9 inch or S60.

We appreciate the initiative fccs. Go beat on it with some drag radials and let us know how it holds up! ;)

I'm just saying, it's nice to see someone go ahead with an idea and give it a try. I've been on the fence about this for a while now, but there isn't much info out there on an F-Body.


Not to take anything away from the OP, but this isn't new by any means as dozens of guys have documented their success with this setup, NEARLY 15 YEARS AGO :lol: If you're looking only at the late model LS1 stuff, remember the 3rd gen cars were around long before them, share many designs, and usually accomplished it LONG ago.

^^ VERY true statement, and damn my short-sighted thinking!

Gotcha. Yeah, I have been wondering about this idea as well, especially after my M6 swap. I just really don't want to shell out 2K+ for a new or used 9 inch or S60.

We appreciate the initiative fccs. Go beat on it with some drag radials and let us know how it holds up! ;)

First thing that needs to be done is eliminating the problem that caused the diff to break the first time, that sounds like getting the LCA brackets in there so the thing doesnt wheelhop. If the OP still has the torque arm mounted to the tailshaft housing I would do something about that too.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.

First thing that needs to be done is eliminating the problem that caused the diff to break the first time, that sounds like getting the LCA brackets in there so the thing doesnt wheelhop. If the OP still has the torque arm mounted to the tailshaft housing I would do something about that too.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.

I don't dump my clutch at the track ever. Period. I slip it, and yea I'm putting the lca's and relocation brackets on sometime this week anyways.

I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.

I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.

Both cars use drag radials.

IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.

Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.

Where did you get your solid pinion spacer

Where did you get your solid pinion spacer

Ws6store has it. You shouldn't need one unless your making some big power though, like constant 600rwhp or so.

You shouldn't need one unless your making some big power though, like constant 600rwhp or so.

Are you sure? I've heard the solid pinion spacer is something you want to do on a 10 bolt if you are rebuilding it, no matter what the power level. The constant abuse, especially with a manual, can cause the crush sleeve to deform further, creating slop in the drivetrain because of the improper tolerances and eventual failure of the ring and pinion.

This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.

Are you sure? I've heard the solid pinion spacer is something you want to do on a 10 bolt if you are rebuilding it, no matter what the power level. The constant abuse, especially with a manual, can cause the crush sleeve to deform further, creating slop in the drivetrain because of the improper tolerances and eventual failure of the ring and pinion.

This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.

Well not for fbodies specifically, but I've heard that the crush sleeve is alright from gm if your making normal power, <500 or so constant I mean. Everyone I know who has a solid one is running 9s or lower, granted they have different rear ends and are pretty much drag cars but they are the only people I know in person running them. I say do it if you have it apart, but don't go out of your way to do it. They are annoying to setup as well.

Where did you get your solid pinion spacer

I bought mine from a local source. However you can order one from Texas Speed (http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2449-ratech-solid-pinion-spacer-crush-collar-w-shim-kitgm-75-10-bolt.aspx)

Your weak link is still the Torsen diff. Ive been though 2 myself with a similiar setup and on the street as well. I've never broke a ring or pinion and those mods i believe helped that part. I hope you have more success than me. I'm giving in and building an 8.8 because I think I can do it and do it right for 6 or 7 hundred bucks.

Your weak link is still the Torsen diff.

Gear, bearing, and differential failure are all directly related to housing flex.

Gear, bearing, and differential failure are all directly related to housing flex.

This. Everyone knows what the failures are but forgets WHY they fail. Spider gears are small and shitty, yes, but they fail because of housing flex to begin with.. because they are so small and shitty they can't take much at all. If your rear stays put and the less flex you have, the better chance you have of your rear surviving. Twisting axles are a different story I would imagine when making alot of power and sticky tires though.

Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only.

Hope it can take heads this year.....

Did you get the standard, Minimum or Extra depth brace kit?

Did you get the standard, Minimum or Extra depth brace kit?

Min. It's the one for our fbodies.

i just ordered one of these covers. added insurance since i just invested a ton into my 10 bolt.

Still doing 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts fine lol

Bump. I went ahead and bought the setup for my thirdgen. I figured I'd try this. If it works, then I just saved about $1500. If it doesn't.. well, I lose $50 in selling the parts and I'll just cut the rear end up and use the axle tubes on the 8.8 I have sitting in the garage. I'll post pictures when I can. I went ahead and got the standard finish with intentions of getting it powdercoated to the color of my choice sometime at the end of this week.

Nice, post pics when on

"Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only."

what do you mean by 'welding tubes'?

"Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only."

what do you mean by 'welding tubes'?

welding the axle tubes to the housing, since they're just pressed on

Nice, this should be a easy way to get some more life out of the ol' 10-bolt, especially for auto cars. For a 6-speed I'd still recommend goin with a 9" though cause of the shock to the rear being so much greater than a auto car.

Oh I see. I figured they were already welded. I didn't think they would just be pressed on. Seems pretty cheap of GM to design them that way.

Oh I see. I figured they were already welded. I didn't think they would just be pressed on. Seems pretty cheap of GM to design them that way.

I believe they are also spot welded from GM, not just pressed on. It is an ok design until, under traction, they twist. Fully welding them all the way around the tube helps this a bit.

I plan on doing the ultimate 10bolt build up with 3.90s.
I figure welding the tubes will add more strengthen and longevity to these weak rear ends.

Im about to order parts for this project and before I do I wanted to know If a solid pinion spacer is worth installing. Im not even really sure how it benefits the rear end. Can someone enlighten me?

Im about to order parts for this project and before I do I wanted to know If a solid pinion spacer is worth installing. Im not even really sure how it benefits the rear end. Can someone enlighten me?

Solid pinion spacer is a good idea if you don't mind the extra work in setting it up. Typically, these style rears use a crush collar that literally crushes down to help set clearances with the pinion depth in the housing. The downside is that, under high horsepower applications, the crush collar can be further crushed, changing the pinion depth and contact patch of the gears, ultimately weakening the strength of the rear. The solid pinion spacer eliminates this problem, but requires more work getting the other shims to compensate for the now fixed depth due to not having a crush collar.

I wouldn't know if it is worth it or not. I'm not sure at what horsepower level the crush collar becomes a liability with the 8.8. I do know the crush collar takes a butt load of torque to actually crush--it's not like you can just crush it with a ratchet. Maybe someone else can chime in here.

Solid pinion spacer is a good idea if you don't mind the extra work in setting it up. Typically, these style rears use a crush collar that literally crushes down to help set clearances with the pinion depth in the housing. The downside is that, under high horsepower applications, the crush collar can be further crushed, changing the pinion depth and contact patch of the gears, ultimately weakening the strength of the rear. The solid pinion spacer eliminates this problem, but requires more work getting the other shims to compensate for the now fixed depth due to not having a crush collar.

I wouldn't know if it is worth it or not. I'm not sure at what horsepower level the crush collar becomes a liability with the 8.8. I do know the crush collar takes a butt load of torque to actually crush--it's not like you can just crush it with a ratchet. Maybe someone else can chime in here.

Exactly. Housing flex caused from wheelhop or driveline shock can compress the crush sleeve causing inadequate pinion bearing preload which can allow the pinion to move around in the housing affecting gear mesh. An early indicator of this is the common pinion seal leak.

They can be a PITA to install, even for someone with lots of experience.

Exactly. Housing flex caused from wheelhop or driveline shock can compress the crush sleeve causing inadequate pinion bearing preload which can allow the pinion to move around in the housing affecting gear mesh. An early indicator of this is the common pinion seal leak.

They can be a PITA to install, even for someone with lots of experience.

Marc,
Any general ballpark horsepower figures/types of usage about when to consider putting in a solid pinion spacer, both for an 8.8 and the 10 bolt?

This is one of the best threads in a long time on read end set-ups.

Question - does anyone have a link to a video or perhaps a pullaway diagram of these rearends? I would love to watch a short video of one being torn down - or more specifically, the alignment set-up of the internals.

Exactly. Housing flex caused from wheelhop or driveline shock can compress the crush sleeve causing inadequate pinion bearing preload which can allow the pinion to move around in the housing affecting gear mesh. An early indicator of this is the common pinion seal leak.

They can be a PITA to install, even for someone with lots of experience.

This is what I ordered. http://ratechmfg.com/smart%20sleeve.htm
From what I understand its a combination of a solid pinion spacer and crush sleeve. The manufacturer says its easier to install and has a superior cycle duty compared to the traditional solid pinion spacer.

Where is everyone ordering their LPW girdles from? I looked through some site sponsors and wasn't able to find anyone that stocks their products. If somebody could PM me something if their source is not a site sponsor i'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Where is everyone ordering their LPW girdles from? I looked through some site sponsors and wasn't able to find anyone that stocks their products. If somebody could PM me something if their source is not a site sponsor i'd appreciate it. Thanks!

The company's name is LPW Racing - Google it. None of the sponsors carry their products, so buy from them direct.

Thanks Marc. Wanted to find a site sponsor but was having difficulty.

Did you get the Ultimate pro series cover or just the regular Ultimate cover?

The Ultimate cover is the one I ordered and the pro series is the same just powerd coated black. According to the sales rep that I spoke with this is the only difference.

Here is my finished project. I can't wait until I can install it.
Check out the pics.

Here are the parts:

http://www.lpwracing.com/Diff_Cover_Comparison/Differential_Cover_Comparison.html
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/82-02-motive-performance-3-90-gear-set/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_79_529&products_id=4715
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-ratech-deluxe-gear-installation-kit/
http://www.ratechmfg.com/smart%20sleeve.htm

Right on man, get it in and go beat the shit out of it. Looks cool too.

Installed with pics, didn't cost much so we will see how time will tell..

Blew my carrier up a few weeks ago, got a used one on here cheap + LPW Ultimate Girdle & Axle tube brace kit for the 10 bolt. Had to have the the drivers side brace cut since it didn't fit and requires some welding for brackets. Pics below.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/551758_10151105785029278_783249277_13632041_365816 087_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/579886_10151105785159278_783249277_13632043_400775 641_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/533044_10151105785249278_783249277_13632044_384463 596_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/550505_10151105785379278_783249277_13632046_153123 529_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/580039_10151105785534278_783249277_13632047_133682 9732_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/579270_10151105785629278_783249277_13632048_168646 1855_n.jpg

How much did it cost approximately? I'm having a hard time finding a shop that knows how to do it or even knows anything about rear ends.

LPW said it should take less than two hours to weld the tabs and measure the bar length and then weld the rod ends to each bar.

Looks to me like eight welds.

I wonder if you could drill and tap a TA girdle and fab up your own kit. Doesn't look that hard to do.

Just an update. I own the Iroc on the first page and although there have been NO drag launches on the car since I've owned it the rear is still doing great with 650rwhp on it .....

I have a TA girdle on my 10 bolt and a Moser girdle on my Moser 12 bolt.

IMO there isn't enough material forged into a TA girdle that will support the forces of the axle braces.

The LPW girdle forged their girdle with extra material on each side to tap bolt holes in order to attach the brace rod ends to both axle sides.

http://www.lpwracing.com/Axle_Tube_Brace_Kit/axle_housing_brace.html

Moser Girdle

http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/5426508443/in/set-72157623345499537

TA Girdle on a 10 bolt

http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/sets/72157630762333440/

Just an update. I own the Iroc on the first page and although there have been NO drag launches on the car since I've owned it the rear is still doing great with 650rwhp on it .....

Just to clarify, this is your IROC then? http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/transmissions-drivetrain/397601-bullet-proof-10-bolt.html It says in the first post you were launching at 4k on drag radials. I was under the impression you were launching the car at the strip? Maybe I assumed incorrectly that by launching you meant at the strip when you really just meant on the street? Please clarify here...

I bought the car two years ago.....


Here is my build thread. I also have one here on tech. Search my name
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/599655-1987-supercharged-tpi-w.html

Just an update. I own the Iroc on the first page and although there have been NO drag launches on the car since I've owned it the rear is still doing great with 650rwhp on it .....

Put some slicks and try it on preped track and see how it does.

I bought the car two years ago.....


Here is my build thread. I also have one here on tech. Search my name
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/599655-1987-supercharged-tpi-w.html

Thanks for the clarification. Your car is a different one than the one I thought it was, then. Sweet car by the way!

No, it's the same car, I'm sure...


I removed the stickers and such from it when I got it. I bought it from "zdaddy" in 2010

Put some slicks and try it on preped track and see how it does.


It would hold up some, but I don't plan on keeping it in there...

I have this...

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/546550_3034707869076_1304336294_32102883_131824399 1_n.jpg

No, it's the same car, I'm sure...


I removed the stickers and such from it when I got it. I bought it from "zdaddy" in 2010

Ah, well you didn't mention you bought it from him! :) I was looking at the usernames on the two different threads and didn't think about the car changing hands. Makes sense.

It would hold up some, but I don't plan on keeping it in there...

I have this...

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/546550_3034707869076_1304336294_32102883_131824399 1_n.jpg

Right on. I actually had the orignal 10 bolt with just a cover and shock proof gear oil last 7yrs. It was an auto , but still lasted 2years running 10's.

just had my LPW cover installed yesterday. that things holds alot more fluid than a stock cover which is good.

End of summer update--is it still holding up? Take it to the track any? Abused it any? We want details! :)

I plan on doing this exact set up as well, with new eaton posi, new gears, with the LPW Kit, yes i know I'm an automatic but it's more of an insurance. i dont mind spending the money if it'll help it. still way less than a 12-9 bolt lol this car is more street/daily driver more than a track car. but this car was babied before it got to me, very well taken care of, previous owner probably put 20,000 miles on it in 10 years, garage kept. would anyone think I should still buy new axles? if so...what kind? *car had 93,000 miles on it, all stock when I got it, has 115,000 now*

Subbed.

...Some people including me have broken the rear end on street tires before, this I think would fix most of that.

original 10 bolt on street tires gave up on me at about 100k miles. Had her COMPLETELY rebuilt by a top professional in the area...now she has 123k miles and she blew up (with street tires with no launches) earlier this week.

I think I'll got the TA girdle route and give her one more try...