Generation IV Internal Engine - `roller tip rockers or pad type

way are some people against the roller tip rockers
in favour the pad type

I'm not positive but I think it has to do with the amount of lift the ls engine has I know on mine the roller tip would roll onto the edge of the valve stem. Plus there is minimal gains to be had

Well, the factory rockers are the strongest and lightest on the tip compared to any roller setup.

With the trunion upgrade done to them it makes them safer than the stock needle bearing setup and stronger for cams with aggressive ramp rates.

If you are going to go with an aftermarket setup of any kind, I would spend the money on a shaft style system from Jesel or T&D if not, just stick with stock rockers that are upgraded.

Well, the factory rockers are the strongest and lightest on the tip compared to any roller setup.

I wouldn't say strongest... but they get the job done for most applications with less than 400lbs open pressure. Over that and it's time to start thinking about aftermarket options.

Because they are oem and cheapier/ easier to be had. I run yella terra rollers in mine because they don't flex and loose lift like stock, they have proper swipe patterns at high lift, and they create less valve train noise. Also said that rollers don't foam the oil up and that rollers allow greater power through less friction.

I wouldn't say strongest... but they get the job done for most applications with less than 400lbs open pressure. Over that and it's time to start thinking about aftermarket options.

There aren't many springs less than 400lbs of open pressure these days. My spring is 450 open pressure and was told by Erik @HKE I will be fine and Geoff@EPS spec'd the cam knowing what springs and valvetrain I have.

With the ramp rate of the cams going into LS motors these days you would need a good spring to last. My friend's car wore out a set of Manley nextek springs in one season of racing on a measley TR224 cam. He was then told by Thunder Racing to put a set of Patriot golds on there because that spring wasn't going to last and they were surprised it lasted a full summer of racing.

So I think it would be safe to say you can go above 400lbs of pressure and be ok but nothing stupid like 550lbs.

what is the main cause of spring breakage ,?

my friend broke an outer after 3,000 miles don't know what brand as there
is no markings on them ? no name brand maybe LOL
he was told by the shop that supplied the springs that sloppy rockers was the cause. and to get new rockers, or up grade the trunnion bearings
it all so broke the valve guide post off level with the L98 head( BUMMER )

are they replaceable or is it cast in to the head with an insert for the valve to run in

Springs can break for a number of reasons, surface or manufacturing imper-
fections, improper application or setup, too much lift, too many rpms, surge,
etc. The reason for years people have stuck with the stock rockers is they
are light weight AT the valve. When beehive springs were the only option,
things like hollow LS6 valves, titanium retainers, and strong push rods all
played important roles in creating a stable valvetrain as cam lobes continued
to become more aggressive. The aftermarket roller rockers were heavy and
would cause valve float several hundred rpms earlier. Now dual springs and
newer/lighter roller rockers have changed all this