View Full Version : To wrap or coat?


chitown21y
05-15-2012, 01:15 PM
I got a killer deal on some Kooks but they are not coated. The question is I live in Seattle=rain so should I run with the wrap (hate how it looks) I already bought or coat them and spend another 300 that I could spend on the tune?

Just looking for some opinions from people that have done it either way....


Thanks,

Dave

lollygagger8
05-15-2012, 01:28 PM
Wrap that shit. I wrapped by B&B You can barely see the headers as it is, and it'll keep the most heat out of the engine bay.

vmapper
05-15-2012, 01:44 PM
I prefer coating, but it must be done both inside and out.

heavymetals
05-15-2012, 01:48 PM
I wrapped my B&B's but make sure that when you first start it, the car is outside and open the hood.

Will smoke like a MFer.

TheLostDriver
05-15-2012, 02:11 PM
I left my stainless naked. I put small pieces of wrap on other things that I felt would be affected lol

tommycompton
05-15-2012, 02:57 PM
I wrapped my B&B and wish I had coated them. The wrap ended up rotting even with wrap spray. I have gone through 3 sets of spark plug wires even with cool soxs on every set. The wire boots ended up wearing through the wrap and through the cool sox. I now have gratenalli high temp wires with cool sox and and extra sleeving over the boots.

lollygagger8
05-15-2012, 03:34 PM
I wrapped my B&B and wish I had coated them. The wrap ended up rotting even with wrap spray. I have gone through 3 sets of spark plug wires even with cool soxs on every set. The wire boots ended up wearing through the wrap and through the cool sox. I now have gratenalli high temp wires with cool sox and and extra sleeving over the boots.

Dan man that sucks. I've never had a problem with my wrapped B&B's. My spark plug wires are laying on the headers too!

kl2onik
05-15-2012, 04:24 PM
coating is always a better idea to prevent water betting in between the wrap and headers especially in seatle. Id leave them unwrapped and coat them yourself with high temp coating they sell. I know its not as nice as sending them in to do a profecional magnetic coat but they should last just fine if you do it yourself...still better than wrap based on your location imo. Just make sure the wires are all zippy tied as far to the fender side as possible from them. Ive had pacesetters on for almost a year soon unwrapped and they still look almost new. Kooks are better headers so you should be great

heavymetals
05-15-2012, 06:05 PM
The thing I hate about the wrapping is when I am working next to them I end up with fiberglass itch.

Glad they ain't asbestos! :jest:

FinallymyT/A
05-15-2012, 06:44 PM
If you really hate how the wrap looks and about all that rain, then coat 'em. Spend the $300, and you won't have to -sigh- every time you look at them.

Me personally, I'm cheap and would wrap the mess out of them!

dudesweet
05-15-2012, 06:57 PM
+1 vote for coating. You'll be happy you did it in the long run.

shadyLS6
05-15-2012, 07:56 PM
i wrapped mine.. if i had the cash i would coat them...

dont put them in naked...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/193182-alternator-wire-v-header-fail.html
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/whisler151/IMG_0097.jpg?t=1267059646
/\ this is why i wrapped

BudRacing
05-16-2012, 12:16 AM
I wrapped mine with Lava wrap. It looks kinda carbon fiberish. I also protected several other items in the bay with DEI heat shielding, wrapped my motor mounts with the leftover lava wrap. I like the look. Plus there's not much of these headers you can see when installed anyway.

itsslow98
05-16-2012, 12:41 AM
I left mine untouched and they looked perfect after 20k miles. They are stainless so no matter how much rain you have they wont rust.

tommycompton
05-16-2012, 10:02 AM
Dan man that sucks. I've never had a problem with my wrapped B&B's. My spark plug wires are laying on the headers too!

Yeah, the wires are always fine but the boots get baked and start cracking then i get random missfires. burnt through a set of moroso's in not even 6 months(brand new when I nstalled the headers). then put the used stockers back on they lasted a few months. Then a set of some brand of oem replacements that lasted about a week and a half. Then i used the remainder of them and the original stockers that were still ok.
They lasted a couple months of driving.
Now I'll see how long my current reinforced set up lasts.
Not sure if its an LS2 thang.

chitown21y
05-16-2012, 12:23 PM
Great guys thanks for the info. I will be making the decision soon and then need to find a tuner in Seattle that isn't a moron with these ls6's...

wcryan
05-16-2012, 12:33 PM
mine are unwrapped and fine. About 10-12k miles

lollygagger8
05-16-2012, 12:43 PM
Yeah, the wires are always fine but the boots get baked and start cracking then i get random missfires. burnt through a set of moroso's in not even 6 months(brand new when I nstalled the headers). then put the used stockers back on they lasted a few months. Then a set of some brand of oem replacements that lasted about a week and a half. Then i used the remainder of them and the original stockers that were still ok.
They lasted a couple months of driving.
Now I'll see how long my current reinforced set up lasts.
Not sure if its an LS2 thang.

Damn truck motors! ;)

CancerJCC
05-21-2012, 02:19 PM
I left mine untouched and they looked perfect after 20k miles. They are stainless so no matter how much rain you have they wont rust.

mine are unwrapped and fine. About 10-12k miles

Me too. Probably 20k also.

Bomber Z
05-21-2012, 02:27 PM
I coated mine. Very happy with them. Plus it looks great..
:cool:

Skidmarcx
05-23-2012, 01:58 AM
Did the DEI Titanium wrap... mainly to keep direct heat off the surrounding components... I live in Phoenix so rain? what's rain? ;) I don't worry about water rotting things

NeverSatisfied02
05-23-2012, 02:17 AM
Mine aren't wrapped and are just fine. Kooks on my old car weren't wrapped either.

Drew-Kooks
05-23-2012, 09:29 AM
I got a killer deal on some Kooks but they are not coated. The question is I live in Seattle=rain so should I run with the wrap (hate how it looks) I already bought or coat them and spend another 300 that I could spend on the tune?

Just looking for some opinions from people that have done it either way....


Thanks,

Dave

No reason to wrap them they are 304L stainless will not rust, may have some surface rust spots that is normal. It is due to the alloy compound that composes the stainless. When wrapping them you are basically putting an abrasive sponge around your headers. If you wanted to protect them further than just bare stainless coat them.

chitown21y
07-08-2012, 08:34 PM
Ok guys I am installing these today and thinking of not wrapping them but wrapping everything around them. Anyone done this and how are your spark plug wires holding up?

Thanks,

Dave

NeverSatisfied02
07-08-2012, 08:50 PM
Just fine here. I made sure all wires, lines, etc were away from them and haven't had a single issue. Spark plug wires are bare MSD's without heatsocks and I just made sure to turn them away from the header tubes to ensure they weren't too close and they haven't given me any issues either.

chitown21y
07-08-2012, 08:51 PM
Ok done deal. Thanks NS02

NeverSatisfied02
07-08-2012, 10:50 PM
No prob bud. My old car had naked kooks. 30k miles on them and no issues there either but it does get hot under the hood. Maybe a little hotter under there than if they were wrapped but I can't see it making enough of a difference to really matter.

etcts-v
07-09-2012, 01:15 PM
Another Seattle Guy, nice!

If you got the cash then get them coated especially with our climate, but wrapping is cheaper and will suffice. I did both.

chitown21y
07-09-2012, 01:17 PM
How did you guys get the kooks to not touch the starter wire? Its a pain and it have wrapped the wires in heat wrap but I cant get them moved enough to not touch. Also any clearance issues with steering shaft?

etcts-v
07-09-2012, 01:23 PM
How did you guys get the kooks to not touch the starter wire? Its a pain and it have wrapped the wires in heat wrap but I cant get them moved enough to not touch. Also any clearance issues with steering shaft?

The steering shaft was a biotch when I put in my pacesetters, had to disconnect it to get them installed.

NeverSatisfied02
07-09-2012, 03:44 PM
I took my steering shaft out and did some grinding on it when i installed my headers. As far as the starter wire, mine doesn't touch but it's close. Gonna heat wrap it for added protection when I get it outta the paint shop.

I always forget about climate differences. Down here, we don't have to worry very much about rust or any other wear and tear unless we drive the car on the beach near the water without blasting everything underneath afterward with a pressure washer. Old car was on the beach multiple times with no issues and no rusting of any kind.

Stone17
07-09-2012, 04:27 PM
Did anyone wrap the oil filter?
I did.
My kook header is about 3in from the filter.

furbe
07-09-2012, 08:48 PM
Grinding the steering shaft probably not a good idea.

NeverSatisfied02
07-09-2012, 09:29 PM
No problems thus far. Plenty of people I know have done it. Saves u having to smash the shit outta the headers. A little grinding and a minor dent and ur good to go

BudRacing
07-09-2012, 11:10 PM
I just got mine back together and the only problem seems to be that the steering shaft is rubbing the headers when before it wasn't. I'll have to play around with it some more tomorrow.

chitown21y
07-12-2012, 01:12 AM
****Update**** So the install was going well until I received a nice notorious gift of a broken rear DS header bolt! What are the chances I can get it out and what have you guys heard of using to try?

Thanks Dave

BudRacing
07-12-2012, 01:22 AM
You're lucky it's on that side. You have much more room to work with than the rear PS bolt like mine. Is it flush with the head?

chitown21y
07-12-2012, 01:25 AM
It is not perfectly flush but about 1 thread in.

jmargo
07-12-2012, 01:34 AM
****Update**** So the install was going well until I received a nice notorious gift of a broken rear DS header bolt! What are the chances I can get it out and what have you guys heard of using to try?

Thanks Dave

Was it a new header bolt ?
Two options to get the bolt out...cut a slot in the bolt and remove it with a flat head or get a nut, place it over the stud or try to grab a thread or two and weld the inside of the nut to the stud then remove with a wrench.

chitown21y
07-12-2012, 01:50 AM
No its an factory old bolt. I think this bolt broke off a while ago. I dont think I can cut a slot in it due to it being inside the head but the welding thing may work. Anyone tried drilling it and using an easyout or is welding the best method?

NeverSatisfied02
07-12-2012, 02:20 AM
My passenger side rear header bolt was broken but only the head snapped off. I had enough sticking out that I could use some vise grips and twist it out. Whew!!! Lol

BudRacing
07-12-2012, 09:18 AM
ooo, inside the head is tough. I think the welding a nut to it is the best route here. Drilling it may be difficult with the lack of room you have in there and you could end up damaging the threads and stuff. I'd take it to a shop that does a little of everything and have them take care of it.

I had to pull a head after trying the slot and flathead method and the bolt extractor bit method. Luckily I didn't mess up the threads, but in the end I had to pull the head anyway.

Have your motor mounts been bad recently? I'm starting to think that the rocking of the motor is what's breaking these rear bolts off.

etcts-v
07-12-2012, 01:18 PM
ooo, inside the head is tough. I think the welding a nut to it is the best route here.

+1 on this method, worked great for me in the past, that is if you are able to get access with the welder!

BudRacing
07-12-2012, 01:19 PM
That bolt has plenty of access.

NeverSatisfied02
07-12-2012, 01:36 PM
Yes... weld a bolt to it! Best idea. And my motor mounts were completely shot when i found that mine was broken on my old car. I was doing headers and new motor mounts at the same time as well as a new clutch so its a good possibility that the motor mounts have something to do with it.

chitown21y
07-12-2012, 01:51 PM
Yes I replaced my stock mounts with CS about a year ago but I have no idea when this bolt broke. It's about 1 thread in the head so i think I can weld a small bolt to it. I am going to try that first before pulling the head.

odthetruth
07-12-2012, 06:27 PM
+1

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb454/odthetruthv/2012-04-13154132.jpg

chitown21y
07-13-2012, 02:54 AM
Not to hot looking but worked like a charm after about 4 tries! Heads are staying on.


http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d83/birel21y/IMAG02102.jpg

NeverSatisfied02
07-13-2012, 01:31 PM
Good to hear!!! Congrats!!

Got a chance to look at my alternator wire. It's a good 3/4" or more away from the header in a solid location. Looks like when they pulled the bell housing to do the clutch, they pulled the starter and moved the wires around to the left side away from the headers. Everything else is nice and tucked away from them as well. I'm staying naked with them. No issues thus far. Only thing I may do is put heat socks on the wires when I do my next spark plug change.

etcts-v
07-13-2012, 01:37 PM
Good work! Way better than pulling the heads and buying new gaskets & bolts!

chitown21y
07-14-2012, 05:10 PM
You guys know the steering shaft bolt torque?

RADEoN
07-14-2012, 05:15 PM
tight ft/lbs.

NeverSatisfied02
07-14-2012, 05:20 PM
tight ft/lbs.

Werd... Lol

chitown21y
07-14-2012, 05:33 PM
Lol nice... Figured that would be good thanks

chitown21y
07-15-2012, 07:56 PM
Hey guys my kooks are 3 in and the B&B are also but the kooks cats are 3 inlet 2.5 outlet. Do you guys think it will hurt hp at all to keep the outlet at 2.5 then enlarge to 3 to reconnect to the B&B or should I cut the back of the cats and install 3 in pipe?

BudRacing
07-16-2012, 10:03 AM
If you don't mind hacking those pretty pieces up, then yes.

chitown21y
07-16-2012, 11:09 AM
Agree..Not sure if I can do that so may just see what it does with an adapter...

NeverSatisfied02
07-16-2012, 03:28 PM
I'd try to keep it all 3" if possible.

chitown21y
07-16-2012, 03:54 PM
I think I may just do the adapter thing for now to get her back up and running and then have some 3 in tubing put in before the tune.

NeverSatisfied02
07-16-2012, 04:05 PM
Just trade me your 3" B&B and I'll send you a 2.5" magnaflow catback. Easy fix! Lol

chitown21y
07-16-2012, 04:11 PM
Nice lol

NeverSatisfied02
07-16-2012, 04:39 PM
Just tryin to help out... Lol

chitown21y
07-16-2012, 04:46 PM
Such a nice guy lol

NeverSatisfied02
07-16-2012, 04:56 PM
I do what I can... Lol :thumb:

BudRacing
07-16-2012, 06:59 PM
What a couple of cheezeballs...lol

chitown21y
07-19-2012, 10:47 AM
So I got the thing finished and I started it up to find that it is quieter then a stock V! So I am either taking out the cats or resonator. Which one do you guys think will make the most difference in volume and power?

If I take out the resonator I am afraid I will get drone so I am leaning towards the removal of the cats...

BTW no steering shaft issues with CS mounts.

BudRacing
07-19-2012, 11:05 AM
How are headers and a B&B catback quieter than stock?

chitown21y
07-19-2012, 11:08 AM
With the cats and resonator it has to be close to stock. It's driving me nuts.

soulja
07-19-2012, 11:28 AM
I just picked up some coated pacesetters. I have the drivers side wrapped. I think I will unwrap it and do it better. Seems kinda of sloppy. I used the Titanium wrap.

heavymetals
07-19-2012, 11:40 AM
Remove the resonator and install an X pipe.

That is what I did to my B&B setup.

chitown21y
07-19-2012, 11:56 AM
You don't by chance have a video of this setup so I can hear do you?

What x pipe did you buy?



Remove the resonator and install an X pipe.

That is what I did to my B&B setup.