New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Reliability of cam car

Guys I am about to buy an 01 Z28, 125k original motor miles tranny miles. It has an average cam, through a T56. 12 bolt rear end. Slp lid exhaust ect. Dealer said the guy had all the work done there at the dealership by a GM mechanic who I can talk to tomorrow. Supposedly 10,000 grand under the good and suspension.

Generally speaking, do these cars make decent daily drivers? It will be mine. Generally given a good tune ect.

All my cammed LS1 friends say they are, and many are their DDs. Just want some LS1 tech advice. If not I'm getting a civic. Lol

if its not too aggressive which you seem to imply it isnt itll be fine as long it was tuned and installed properly.

It's a T-56 most any cam will be drivable. I daily drove a 120k mile head/big cammed formula for a couple years. I put about 25-30k miles on it. You'll be fine if it was done right, which it sounds like it was.

I dd my car all last year ms4,6 speed and it was fine, i wouldnt get to into that 10i grand crap, honest what dealers charge for labor i wouldnt doubt if more than half that was for labor alone,

What is the price on the car, remember noone will make there money back on a modded car so for one the dealer wants to get rid of that thing, how much are they asking for the car? You can find a modded f body real cheap these days, im sure the dealer has a 5 grand mark up on that car,but if you do buy it get a warranty

Thanks for the input. "10,000" is probably a little winded when the car is 8,000 K.

I know the rear end is worth some money though! And it's a super fresh car. I think I'll have some fun. Thanks for the support.

A decent T-56 rebuilding with a good clutch, upgraded Drive Shaft and a well optioned 12 will get you a good chunk of the way there. Cam swaps are well over 1k in parts, 500 for Tune. So yea its not cheap even if you do your own installs. ** the trans it self may not have been rebuilt but there should be a new clutch, even if it was stock **

The only concern I have is the size of the cam in relation to how long those springs have been in there. Smart man would get them tested like 4 from random cyl. Everyone can tell you milage or how it was driven but that is the one thing that can fail and when it does it either drops the valve, or kicks it back into the head.

Everyone has a different level of what they can deal with and for you its going to be the same. I drove my cammed t-56 twice this week, freeway, t-tops off and had a blast but I wont mind going back to my 2000 Buick Century later next week.

Just my 2 cents that when ever you get a new car, its on the new owner to verify condition and matience.

Ms4/6sp here, I daily drive mine, 30 miles round trip everyday. If it was done correct I'd say go for it. Sounds like it was.

Reliability is fine, but depending on the size and the aggressiveness of driving is where you have to do maintenance. Lets say big cam and a lot of aggressive driving, you SHOULD check the spring pressure with in 20k to 30k miles to see if you need to change them. If you plan to rev it higher than 6500-6800 it would be peace at mind to put ARP or Katech rod bolts in to keep from spinning a rod bearing(s). If you do that and make sure your pushrod length is where or close to where it's suppose to be then it should be pretty reliable and fun.

EDIT: Oh and I pretty much drive my RapTR (236/242 111 LSA) cammed trans am everywhere with no problems. Fun levels definitely went up after cam from street driving to track racing.

^ Yep.

Also look to have installed a Tick Perf. Master Cyl, one the best things for these cars.

A decent T-56 rebuilding with a good clutch, upgraded Drive Shaft and a well optioned 12 will get you a good chunk of the way there. Cam swaps are well over 1k in parts, 500 for Tune. So yea its not cheap even if you do your own installs. ** the trans it self may not have been rebuilt but there should be a new clutch, even if it was stock **

The only concern I have is the size of the cam in relation to how long those springs have been in there. Smart man would get them tested like 4 from random cyl. Everyone can tell you milage or how it was driven but that is the one thing that can fail and when it does it either drops the valve, or kicks it back into the head.

Everyone has a different level of what they can deal with and for you its going to be the same. I drove my cammed t-56 twice this week, freeway, t-tops off and had a blast but I wont mind going back to my 2000 Buick Century later next week.

Just my 2 cents that when ever you get a new car, its on the new owner to verify condition and matience.

Bring your cars to me to tune. I'll take that 500 gladly!

That is what Slowhawk, RPM, and Rapidmotorsports are getting for most cars, maybe 300-400 for a "Street Tune". But most will say call for pricing but those who own a dyno as asking for they feel is worth their time.

Seen SOME local places off maybe 400 just to under cut.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/16027053-post8.html

Example I was able to dig up but I think mirror the feeling is that having something done the right way. So I'll not speak for them but I paid for 2 different local shops in the 400-500 range on ODBI 1994 LT1 383 and my 2002 for N/A tunes.

Like to buy EFI live but need to invest for that...

I dd my car all last year ms4,6 speed and it was fine, i wouldnt get to into that 10i grand crap, honest what dealers charge for labor i wouldnt doubt if more than half that was for labor alone,

Did you try it on stock gearing?

I DD a stalled auto with a nice-size cam, no problems except for a little break-up on cold starts and low vacuum at idle.

i stick with higher lsa like 114-115 and high 580-609 lifts and they have never stalled or anything when tuned right. main thing is just make sure you dont skip over the timing chain upgrade ($40) and springs etc......i got my cams from TSP and Brutespeed