Gears & Axles - I purchased a Spohn driveshaft and this is what happens!

Well fellas here is what happens when using a Spohn, I contacted them and I told them what happened and I sent the pictures you see below and the you'll see their response. I ordered this d/s through the ws6store and as you can see I ordered the one that applies to me. Spohn's defense is you should of measured and that strapping a car on the dyno causes "stress" well no kidding but more that being on a street? Really? Well then if I have to measure why would you sell your d/s like this? This is what kills me,
It's not the vendors fault but why would Spohn advertise like this?

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...g/driveshafts/

http://www.lmperformance.com/78229/1.html

Just an example

If you still have to measure?! I also called PST and strange this morning and they said they DO NOT make theirs shorter! They both said they make it to exact sizes that you order. Now I'm out a Trans with no days off because of these NATO clowns and All cops have to be on the streets or close by! All I wanted was to have my car ready by memorial day weekend to celebrate it with my family!
What do you guys think?
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This is the email from Spohn
From tech@spohn.net

The output shaft on your transmission broke, it's actually a very common occurence when strapped down to a chassis dyno. A chassis dyno places a lot of stress on the drivetrain.
The output shaft on your transmission broke, it's actually a very common occurence when strapped down to a chassis dyno. A chassis dyno places a lot of stress on the drivetrain.

It had nothing to do with your driveshaft. The driveshaft is exactly as it should be from your pictures. They are supposed to be a bit shorter than the factory driveshaft, you need a little more slip yoke travel for high performance applications. This is how we have built them for 13 years and how any performance driveshaft company builds them. With that said it is always the installer's responsibility when installing any driveshaft on any car to check for proper engagement, etc. before driving the vehicle.

It was just a matter of the stress the chassis dyno put on your transmission, it happens unfortunately.
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Here are the pics:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/71bfdfce.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/a6b39bb3.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/573f6ea0.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/01bc65bf.jpg

Obviously the ds is way too short to me at least and to the guys at Straightline ---->
Sponsors and in business for years!

wouldnt you need a longer driveshaft if you have a 9"

Not sure when I ordered it from ws6store it said to check the box if I have an aftermarket rear and I use 1350 ujoints which I do and I did.

I've got a tailhousing if your interested...

if you checked aftermarket rear then that sounds like a ordering issue that they got wrong. Do you have your receipt still. thats a shitty situation, hope you get it resolved

I wonder if the tailshaft bushing walked outa the trans, do you have a adjustable torque arm, was the pinion angle right as it looks like it was a vibration causing that. Sure is a shame

It was all good and checked at Straightline, and if you read their email according to them that's the correct shaft! Can't believe this company

A nine inch really needs a one inch longer driveshaft that what a 10 bolt and 12 bolt requires. Check out the x dimension on the diagram at this link. http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRA35-3-1-2-120-Wall-Alum-w-Forged-Slip-Yoke-Free-Ship-PST-DRA35.htm
45.25 is the dimension we use for 9" rears. Bob

Thank you Bob that means a lot!
As soon as I get my trans gets repaired and I send this d/s back I will be calling you sir!

I just hope others like me see this so they don't hop on a vendors site and order a d/s thinking its the correct size, because it won't.

Sorry buddy but the 3/4 less engagement didn't break your output shaft. I agree with Spohn in this case.

Ok then what happened?
Or what could of the possibilities been? I mean all Mike the tuner was doing was setting up fuel tables on the Dyno and it never even made it past 4k rpm, there was no hp pulls yet or nothing!
Talk to me

In the third picture you can see that the rear seal is barely running at the tip of the shaft! Is that normal? Can it be that close to the end? Now look at the stock one on the right, doesn't that look better? Just saying cause I want to learn.

Was there any vibration? An out-of-balance driveshaft could be a possibility of breaking the output shaft.

How did the splines look on the shaft and yoke? Too little engagement likely would have just stripped out the splines on one or both pieces.

I think you just simply had an output shaft failure. Be sure to inspect it good for stress signs at the yoke when you get that trans torn apart, although I doubt there will be any. It happens and yes it sucks! I had a T400 break an output shaft in a plow truck, blade up and minimal acceleration. Snapped at maybe 5 mph.

Yes lots of vibration and then it let go all of a sudden 15-20 minutes after getting going.

The d/s was supposed to be balanced, I guess they need to be checked before bolting it up too hu? Lol because I wanna cry.

What was the torque arm angle?

The first and second picture posted above, is that indicative of how far the driveshaft was slid into the output shaft and ran? Or is that just the aftermath and pulled out to show the seal broken etc?

When I swapped my bigger yoke onto my new PST driveshaft we didn't get the bearing caps perfectly centered and it made quite a bit vibration even though it was just about perfect. The driveshaft looked like it was oblong when under throttle but it was the bearing caps that made it un-centered. We took them off and re-centered and everything was perfect after that.

Not sure the exact measurement but I had asked Straightline and they said it was ok.

The pictures are the aftermath and my deal and everything else broken.

The driveshaft was shipped with the Trans yoke already on. All I supposedly had to do was slip it in and bolt it down.

It clearly shows in pic #3 that the d/s are the same length, pics #3/4 show slip yokes are not. You had some doubt about slip shaft engagement when you asked about seal running close to the end. Then you ran the car 15-20 min with a bad vibration, come on now!!! I feel for ya bro but your blame is misplaced. I have alot of spohn susp parts on my car with no complaints at all. Will probably use their d/s when I upgrade from stock. Good luck and hope everything turns out OK! Larry

It clearly shows in pic #3 that the d/s are the same length, pics #3/4 show slip yokes are not. You had some doubt about slip shaft engagement when you asked about seal running close to the end. Then you ran the car 15-20 min with a bad vibration, come on now!!! I feel for ya bro but your blame is misplaced. I have alot of spohn susp parts on my car with no complaints at all. Will probably use their d/s when I upgrade from stock. Good luck and hope everything turns out OK! Larry

Yea I see that now, I did not know it was that short til after it broke! So I had no idea it was going to run that short. I don't get your reasoning. I ordered a d/s like anyone else does from one of the links above and ran it. It doesn't say to measure anyways or measure before ordering, does it? NO.

The 3/4 of an inch less engagement doesn't break output shafts (unless you were already borderline which you wouldn't be on a stock shaft). Whatever the vibration was probably did.

The 3/4 of an inch less engagement doesn't break output shafts (unless you were already borderline which you wouldn't be on a stock shaft). Whatever the vibration was probably did.

I've had a couple customers who after buying a nine inch from me, and go with using their stock length driveshaft, end up with a driveline vibration, which was cured when they went with a longer driveshaft. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.


Thank you Bob that means a lot!
As soon as I get my trans gets repaired and I send this d/s back I will be calling you sir!

I just hope others like me see this so they don't hop on a vendors site and order a d/s thinking its the correct size, because it won't.

Thanks, I appreciate it. Bob

The 3/4 of an inch less engagement doesn't break output shafts (unless you were already borderline which you wouldn't be on a stock shaft). Whatever the vibration was probably did.

Not to sound like an ass, but Ive done a bunch of 9" Installs, every one needed a 1" longer shaft. If the slip yoke is 3/4 shorter than stock, he could be in reality 1 3/4" short of what he SHOULD have... That being said, it's up to the installer to verify, and if the thing is barely in the trans, common sense should dictate not to run it. I'm not a fan of spohns customer service though either fwiw...

Sorry buddy but the 3/4 less engagement didn't break your output shaft. I agree with Spohn in this case.

with what bob from brute speed said........his application needs an inch longer.

so its already an 3/4 shorter than the stock shaft in the pic + it needs an extra inch over the stock shaft....

so the one he ordered from spohn is 1" 3/4" to short?

good luck!

If you guys look at the links I posted from the ws6store or lmp (who I don't blame because they are just selling it the way Spohn is advertising them) Spohn is selling them this way! They don't say to measure they are seeking it as a bolt on as long as you choose your transmission type and rear end! I ordered the one that applied to me. Read their email to me, they say that that is the right one from the looks of the pictures. If they would of said to measure anyways on their link don't you think I would have?
Thanks for the input so far guys.

always measure . its up to the end user to verify fitment of any aftermarket part .

Let me ask you this do you think guys that order from TEA TFS AFR LPE WCCH AI and ask for a certain CC chamber actually measure the cc's? Or take a valve spring off and check to make sure they put the correct spring with the correct spring pressures? NO BECAUSE THEY ARE ON TOP of their game!

A CNC'd product is going to be the same everytime. Just like if you ordered another shaft from the ws6store, its going to be the same length as yours. When it comes to an aftermarket head, the installer needs to verify things like PTV clearance and pushrod length. Just like the shaft should have been measured with the rear end.

I think your next step is to get that shaft on a balancer machine. If it is way off, spohn should warranty it. I dont blame them for not doing anything if the only issue is length.

Let me ask you this do you think guys that order from TEA TFS AFR LPE WCCH AI and ask for a certain CC chamber actually measure the cc's? Or take a valve spring off and check to make sure they put the correct spring with the correct spring pressures? NO BECAUSE THEY ARE ON TOP of their game!


While Im on your side partly, your analogy is flawed. Because you should check the springs, you should cc the head. Nobody is perfect, check EVERYTHING, it saves you from problems like this.

Whoever put that driveshaft in should have known it was too short. 1 3/4" short, it was prolly barely in the bushing. It may have cocked in the housing and broke the output shaft or the output could have broke first. Tough to tell. Sorry to see the damage. Best of luck

Ryan

I didn't think I needed to bud, I just ordered a stock length d-s for an M6 with 1350 ujoints.
It even had it written on the box they sent me so I just took it out and ran with it.

not to hijack, but i had a similar headache w/ spohn a few years back about there "drag sway bar" they blamed the fitment issue on everything else.

hope everything works out....get a PST DS or Dennys well worth the money

-Brandon

Guess its a good thing spohn fed me lines of BS for 4-5 weeks about shipping my driveshaft and ended up having to argue to get a refund on a part they claimed was custom made and hadn't even been started on.

Ordered a 3.5in alum pst through speedinc.

Would also use denny's or strange.

I have my plans but here's the carnage!
Broken output shaft in fricken 2!

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/c116fb63.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/736e7f39.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/d341178a.jpg

Sorry buddy but the 3/4 less engagement didn't break your output shaft. I agree with Spohn in this case.

I agree. If anything it should have messed up the splines before it broke your entire output shaft. I had one of the WS6 store Spohn driveshafts when I swapped in my T56 and had the stock 10 bolt. Worked great. When I got my 9" I decided to get the PST 3.5" at the same time. Got it all from Bob and it fit awesome.

I agree. If anything it should have messed up the splines before it broke your entire output shaft. I had one of the WS6 store Spohn driveshafts when I swapped in my T56 and had the stock 10 bolt. Worked great. When I got my 9" I decided to get the PST 3.5" at the same time. Got it all from Bob and it fit awesome.

Help me understand how you would think its the splines first?
That thing was not all the way in as it should be and it was not riding on the bearings the way it should have been and it was vibrating like crazy and once it got too stressed the shaft broke! It broke because of too much stress on the tip of the shaft! Come on maaaan

Help me understand how you would think its the splines first?
That thing was not all the way in as it should be and it was not riding on the bearings the way it should have been and it was vibrating like crazy and once it got too stressed the shaft broke! It broke because of too much stress on the tip of the shaft! Come on maaaan

I'm saying that with less contact area on the splines, they would be the most likely place to take damage and not the portion of the output shaft inside the tail housing. Your output shaft was probably stressed from previous hard use and just happened to be the weak link in this case. Does it negate the fact that the driveshaft wasnt correct for the application? No. But I dont necessarily think it was strictly the driveshafts fault.

I gotta disagree. I bet that thing was wobbling so bad that it destroyed the output bushing. Once that was gone it had nothing to keep it lined up straight. If I had to guess, I would say it broke when the dyno operator lifted off the gas. The pinion drops a couple degrees, shorting the ds even more. The yoke got bound up on the output shaft. Then the inertia of the dyno wheels broke it.

Ive seen it before on the dyno, where you finish a pull and the inertia from the rollers snaps the tailhousing. Thats alot to go wrong all at once, but under acceleration with the splines lined up, it would have twisted the splines then. Were the spline twisted in the yoke?

While that is possible, that slip yoke was only about 3/4" shorter than the other. There still would have been a good 3+ inches on the output shaft. And a change of 2 or 3 degrees of pinion angle as you come off the throttle isnt going to change the slip yoke travel enough to matter. People lift trucks 6 inches and use stock driveshafts a lot of the time. But I guess anything is possible. If it was the drive shaft I wouldnt put the blame on the slip yoke, but rather on it not being balanced correctly, not tightened to the rear end properly, or a messed up u-joint. Either way, if it has a noticable vibration, dont put it on the dyno. Just asking to break something.

The splines look straight in the pics. Just sheared the shaft off clean way up in the tail housing near the bearing. No matter what the cause, it sucks and I feel bad for the OP. Trying to do an upgrade and something bad happens. Best of luck with the repairs and hope to see it alive and well soon.

Thanks fellas, when the tuner was on the dyno for the first time he was only accelerating looking at the fuel tables, when he finally put it on 4th gear is when it started vibrating so he put it in neutral and coasted with no vibration from only like 4k. He did it again to show me and then when he let off is when the shit broke so 25thHawk you are correct sir. The guys at the shop said the same thing 25thHawk said about the bushing and they have seen it many times.

Here is a zoomed in picture of where it was making contact, do you see the spohn ds on the left and stock ds on the right. Can you see where the rear seal is riding? Clearly not enough is it?
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/285af113.jpg

Not even close to enough. When I got my new yoke, it is a mark williams 32 spline th400 yoke, which is counterbored 1 inch. I called mark williams and questioned how much spline engagement I needed. I was told a minimum of 1.5 x the diameter of the shaft. Roughly 2 inches in this application. Which you might have 2", but I don't think that it would have been into the bushing far enough. Pretty common to have a bad vibration from the ds being too short. The dyno just compounds the problem.

FWIW, I had Jason from TDP rebuild my trans. Couldn't be happier. I went with triple cone synchros and a 32 spline output shaft. All done with shipping was less than $2000. Yours is worse since you have broken parts, but the tailhousing might be usable if you did a larger output shaft, because it needs to be bored out anyway.

Best of luck putting it back together.

Ryan

Send me some info on tdp please, I got an m6 do they do those too?

Thanks
Zeke

http://www.texasdrivetrainperformance.com/t56.html

they are a sponsor. Yes, mine is a T56, just the upgraded mainshaft uses a th400 yoke.

Give jason a call from TDP a real good guy to deal with quick turn around as well he usually has 4-5 tranny's waiting to fully built and ready to go.

Thanks sway I will on Tuesday!

not to hijack, but i had a similar headache w/ spohn a few years back about there "drag sway bar" they blamed the fitment issue on everything else.

hope everything works out....get a PST DS or Dennys well worth the money

-Brandon

I wasnt going to mention my trouble with spohn before, but.... FWIW, I did a swap for a customer, and ls1 into a third gen, the spohn k member was made 1 1/2" to short on the passenger side motor mount/stand. Had to cut up his brand new mount, and lengthen it, gusset it, and tig it back together.... Strange said there was no problem, even with the motor sitting 1 1/2" low on the passenger side, clearly in multiple photos.

While that is possible, that slip yoke was only about 3/4" shorter than the other. There still would have been a good 3+ inches on the output shaft. And a change of 2 or 3 degrees of pinion angle as you come off the throttle isnt going to change the slip yoke travel enough to matter. People lift trucks 6 inches and use stock driveshafts a lot of the time. But I guess anything is possible. If it was the drive shaft I wouldnt put the blame on the slip yoke, but rather on it not being balanced correctly, not tightened to the rear end properly, or a messed up u-joint. Either way, if it has a noticable vibration, dont put it on the dyno. Just asking to break something.

You seem to not realise that even the stock shaft was too short for his application, so subtract another 3/4" on top of the 1" it was already short.....

My old ford pickup has an easy 7-8" long slip yoke, obviously there is more room for error in that.....

While that is possible, that slip yoke was only about 3/4" shorter than the other. There still would have been a good 3+ inches on the output shaft. And a change of 2 or 3 degrees of pinion angle as you come off the throttle isnt going to change the slip yoke travel enough to matter.What really matters here is the yoke remaining in the bushing at max chassis travel.

The weak link in the 27 spline mainshaft is the grooves for the VSS reluctor retaining rings. One without those could take a fair amount more power.

That said, a 32 spline triple/double cone T56 is a wise move.

What really matters here is the yoke remaining in the bushing at max chassis travel.

The weak link in the 27 spline mainshaft is the grooves for the VSS reluctor retaining rings. One without those could take a fair amount more power.

That said, a 32 spline triple/double cone T56 is a wise move.

Thanks JDM, do you have any links to these parts?
thanks

A nine inch really needs a one inch longer driveshaft that what a 10 bolt and 12 bolt requires. Check out the x dimension on the diagram at this link. http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRA35-3-1-2-120-Wall-Alum-w-Forged-Slip-Yoke-Free-Ship-PST-DRA35.htm
45.25 is the dimension we use for 9" rears. Bob

Bob is right, I had to have a 1inch longer drive shaft, almost thought it wasn't going to fit lol. sucks to hear but there is no slip or play with my 9' with the d/s. I bought the PST Aluminum 3.5" drive shaft. no issues

I'm running a Strange 3" chromoly driveshaft spec'd out by Midwest Chassis & Performance. They send the specs to Strange, and Strange builds it. MWC say this is the exact shaft they use for all Fbody stock trans to 9" builds. The thing is, everyone says they need a 1" longer driveshaft to make it work, but here is a pic next to a stock steel driveshaft from an Fbody. The shaft part is the same length, with a slightly longer yoke. And the pic with the engagement of the yoke into the shaft seems to be fine. Either way, it's running like a champ.

http://home.comcast.net/~sentinel00/IMAG1188.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~sentinel00/IMAG1199.jpg

Maybe the longer yoke makes up for it. Not that I like that as a solution, but if it is working for you, that is good. My issue would be if u ever needed to upgrade to a chromoly yoke and can't get a long one, then what? Looking at the picture of the slip in the trans: if that is at ride height, you are probably fine because of the long yoke, but the shaft could be another 1/4 - 1/2 inch longer and still be good.

Im also not sure if MWC might fabricate their housings so that a stock driveshaft works, where moser doesn't. Unsure, I never used a MWC rear.

Wow, my driveshaft is way shorter than yours and so is the yoke!

Thanks for posting those pics up, it clearly shows they sent me a shorter yoke!

They need to stop sending these ds to other members so it doesn't happen to them!

Maybe the longer yoke makes up for it. Not that I like that as a solution, but if it is working for you, that is good. My issue would be if u ever needed to upgrade to a chromoly yoke and can't get a long one, then what? Looking at the picture of the slip in the trans: if that is at ride height, you are probably fine because of the long yoke, but the shaft could be another 1/4 - 1/2 inch longer and still be good.

Im also not sure if MWC might fabricate their housings so that a stock driveshaft works, where moser doesn't. Unsure, I never used a MWC rear.


Well, all 9"s typically come stock with the "standard" (short) yoke, so any 9" with a standard yoke will be the same. They have a long yoke used in certain Ford vehicles, but most aftermarket 9" rears come stock with the standard shorter yoke.

Also, from what I've read, you should always make up the length within the driveshaft tube, not the yoke. This pic was taken on a drive on lift, so it's ride height, suspension all loaded.

If I ever need to upgrade the yoke, I bet all Strange yokes are the same lengths. I can't remember if this was a Strange or a Spicer yoke though

Wow, my driveshaft is way shorter than yours and so is the yoke!

Thanks for posting those pics up, it clearly shows they sent me a shorter yoke!

They need to stop sending these ds to other members so it doesn't happen to them!

I know it's hard to accurately judge because the stock slip yoke is tilted on its side. I never noticed in the pic until after I already had the driveshaft back in. One thing to notice, however, is where the internal spline shaft of the slip yoke starts. If you're looking at the picture, the Strange spline shaft begins slightly higher than the stocker. So it's harder to gauge it's travel on the output shaft. Get what I'm saying?

Also, I've been told that Spohn's shafts are really made by Strange, I can't really confirm that honestly, just something I heard.

i hate to say this, but they are correct....you should have measured before installing. never leave anything to doubt.....

i hate to say this, but they are correct....you should have measured before installing. never leave anything to doubt.....

If I order a stock length driveshaft from the sites they sell through I expect a stock length driveshaft! I never asked them to send me what "they" considered STOCK LENGTH. They state it's balanced and ready to bolt on. They never stipulated to measure anyway before ordering. Remember I'm just an average joe that is not too familiar with drivetrain parts. You get my drift, I never had a doubt it might not have been the wrong one, I ordered confirmed the part number on their website and tried to run with it! But it was an epic fail.

It's apart!
Here's more carnage.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/080c946f.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc127/litle8/e1fa2a83.jpg

If I order a stock length driveshaft from the sites they sell through I expect a stock length driveshaft! I never asked them to send me what "they" considered STOCK LENGTH. They state it's balanced and ready to bolt on. They never stipulated to measure anyway before ordering. Remember I'm just an average joe that is not too familiar with drivetrain parts. You get my drift, I never had a doubt it might not have been the wrong one, I ordered confirmed the part number on their website and tried to run with it! But it was an epic fail.

i'm not totally faulting you dude. i'm not trying to be a dick. maybe it's just because i've been doing this so long. maybe it's because i'm used to dealing with people that sometimes have trouble sending me the right brake rotor for a friggin camry. i don't know. but without fail, i match up parts to what came out when i'm replacing stock parts. whether or not i was told to check it, or if it was suggested to me to check it, i do. why? because i got burned once a looooong time ago. that was really my own dam fault, although i lit into them like a Tasmanian devil.

Oh I know bud, believe me I wanted to match it up but I had already sold my stick one and just took their word for it. This is my burning moment. BUT believe me I'm getting ready to turn into TAZ!

Oh I know bud, believe me I wanted to match it up but I had already sold my stick one and just took their word for it. This is my burning moment. BUT believe me I'm getting ready to turn into TAZ!

oohh.......now i understand. in that instance, you need to whack someone over the head with it, unless they give you excellent service fixing this problem.

Zeke, how is everything coming a long?

Hey bud, the Trans is getting rebuilt!!

The POS Spohn D/s has been returned to those geniuses and I should have the Trans tue or wednesday. And hoping to be in my car this weekend!

Oh ok. Hope everything works out this time around. Good luck!

Wow is Spohn in a difficult time right now? I can't believe the customer service over there!

I got a call from Mike at the Ws6 store this morning to inform me that they were NOT going to refund me the money for the D/s. The owner (Mr Spohn) said because I grenaded the d/s and was run over by something! I asked the Tech that I wanted to hear those words from his own mouth, I told him I'd wait as long as I had to. He never did after a few minutes waiting. His "tech" was studdering for words and couldn't even give me NO straight answers. I knew they were going to pull a stunt like this and I tool pictures and video of it as i was packing it back in its original box. I asked them this morning to send me pictures of the d/s so I can see them and they still haven't sent them after reminding them!

Unreal! I can't believe a company this size would try to get over on a blue collar working American over a driveshaft that was in perfect condition! Lol all it did was take out my Trans under deacceleration, this can be asked to anyone at Straightline which are sponsors on this board now for MANY years. UNREAL!!

i think i might be in the same situation as you right now.....luckily i read your thread before it lead to any carnage. I too bought a Spohn driveshaft from WS6 store and am running an m6 with a moser 9". I was getting pretty bad vibrations only on decel. Here are some pics of the measurements spohn recommend i checked
Driveshaft in normal position
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/02blackZ28/photobucket-41859-1340227132100.jpg
Driveshaft yoke bottomed out in tailshaft
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/02blackZ28/photobucket-42599-1340227129735.jpg
Marked 2 lines and measure the travel between them 1.5"
Spohn said i should have 1" or less
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/02blackZ28/photobucket-38314-1340227130968.jpg
So that only leaves 2.25" engaged in the trans
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/02blackZ28/photobucket-41757-1340227128529.jpg

With the driveshaft in normal loaded position i have pretty excessive up/down/side-side play in the slip yoke. If i slide the slip yoke in another .5-1" the play goes away.
WS6 store has been very good so far with customer support i just hope Spohn will step up and do the same. Ill be watching this thread to see how you make out.

Please don't use it then!!!
You will damage that bearing back there and it's gone stress the main shaft causing it to break!

I too have has awesome communication with Mike at WS6 store he is one awesome guy that will go above and beyond.

I'm pretty much have been told by Spohn to go get bent! I'm glad I posted and word travels do others can expect this from them. Now I know I'm not the only one.

i think i might be in the same situation as you right now.....luckily i read your thread before it lead to any carnage. I too bought a Spohn driveshaft from WS6 store and am running an m6 with a moser 9". I was getting pretty bad vibrations only on decel. Here are some pics of the measurements spohn recommend

With the driveshaft in normal loaded position i have pretty excessive up/down/side-side play in the slip yoke. If i slide the slip yoke in another .5-1" the play goes away.
WS6 store has been very good so far with customer support i just hope Spohn will step up and do the same. Ill be watching this thread to see how you make out.

any updated bud?

yeah....spohn is building me a custom lenth driveshaft with the dimensions i gave them, all i have to do is send my old one back. Ill keep you updated when i get the new one.

Wtf...man.

Sphon giving my boy some heat? Guess I won't be buying my suspension stuff from there.

I've always thought Spohn was garbage no matter the product and will continue to spread my opinion of them.

well ill keep this thread updated when i receive the custom made one for anyone that cares

Wtf...man.

Sphon giving my boy some heat? Guess I won't be buying my suspension stuff from there.

Yea bud!

The owner couldn't even have the desency to tell me the lies outta his mouth! They still haven't sent me pictures that show I sent them a fubar'd d/s! Ask anyone on here! I'm not that kinda guy! But karma is a bitch though!

That's fucked up.

I've always thought Spohn was garbage no matter the product and will continue to spread my opinion of them.

Thanks dj, I just hope they stop doing this to other members!

UPDATE!!! just received my custom made driveshaft today from spohn. This time it measured 42.25" center to center. The install went well with a much tighter fitting yoke this time. I now have 1" of yoke travel instead of the 1.5+" that i had before. So first test drive i took her up to about 60mph(where the vibration was the worst with the old shaft) and let off. This time it was smooth sailing on decel with not the slightest vibration. I then proceeded up to 80mph and let off with absolutely no vibration still.
I do believe i have solved my vibration. Spohn came through on this one for me with no questions asked. All i had to do was pay shipping to return my old shaft(22$ shipped) and the turn around time was pretty quick.
OP- i hope you got yours straightened out. Did spohn ever reimburse you for the shaft or anything?

Oh yeah one more thing.....to anyone purchasing a driveshaft MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE. It only takes but a few minutes to take a couple measurements. So make sure you measure before you order or you will be beating your head like i was.

I didn't have to measure at all and I got the correct driveshaft. Guess the company I ordered from isn't a bunch of idiots.

how do you "know" you have the correct driveshaft though? Just because you dont have any vibrations or other issues doesnt mean you have the correct driveshaft. Its just like Piston to valve clearance.....it is always better to measure then to just run it!

I didn't have to measure at all and I got the correct driveshaft. Guess the company I ordered from isn't a bunch of idiots.