Road Racing - How good are f-bodies on a track?

Hey guys
So ive been entertaining the idea of tracking my car once I graduate this spring. I just wanted to findout the general census on whether it can be done in my 1999 SS CAMARO or if I shouldnt bother and just get a C5ZO6 eventually. My underatanding is people like Sam Strano have had sucess. I just wanted to get feed back before i go crazy with this idea. Thanks for any post.

Set up properly, they can do very well. The platform will always be somewhat limited due to the size and weight distribution, but they really are better than most people will give them credit for.

A C5ZO6 certainly has way more potential than an f-body, so if you plan on getting serious, it might be best to keep any mods to your Camaro to a minimum while you save/wait for the right Vette to come along. C5ZO6 is a lot of bang for the buck, and there are many out there to choose from.

What he said.

Your car is plenty capable so just go out and have a good time. I've had a great time playing with some off the Corvette guys so it's about the driver more than anything.

I was in the same situation you are and decided to dip my feet in with what I had. I now track my full weight '02 Z28 a couple times a year. It started stock with only bolt-on engine mods. Now the suspension has been modified quite a bit but I'm still only bolt-ons in the power department. No regrets and loving it!

Btw... half the fun is surprising some people with how well a camaro gets around the track :)

http://www.youtube.com/user/2002Mark2002/videos

Mark.

Thanks guys. Anything modification wise help you guys out the most?

If you've got the dough to track a C5Z06, I say go for it, but don't underestimate your current ride though. They do pretty damn well on the track, parts are relatively cheap and common. Consider this: I put a new carb (untuned) and TDP-prepped T56 in my 2nd gen TA two days before tracking it at Road America. The car ran on 245s, with a global west suspension, a stock internal 2001 LS1 (LTH, carb intake), and a race weight around 3000 pounds. Even with horribly "off" brake biasing, the car was way more capable on the track than I was (I'm a noob). It turned a 3:01 best lap with my buddy driving (experienced racer) and kept pace with some impressive cars. It would easily drop 20 seconds on a better tune and with a new brake prop valve.

The best part, "consumable" and breakable parts are cheap. They're probably even cheaper with a 4th gen. If you maintain a certain level of roadworthiness, I would think running the camaro would cost less than a vette. Less cost = more track time. I'd advocate trading up to a vette once your driving skills outgrow the camaro.

If you're just graduating (and not a doctor or similar high-earner) do you think your pocketbook could sustain the loss of a Z06? You own the Camaro already. There's reason I track a 1981 TA, instead of my G8. I'd rather be 4000 dollar POed than 20000 dollar suicidal.

Just my $0.02

Thanks guys. Anything modification wise help you guys out the most?

If you are just starting out, just make sure the maintenance is up to par - fresh fluids all around (power steering, engine, transmission, rear end, and BRAKE), and maybe some new brake pads (but nothing too serious). If you've never done it before, a stock car will be all you'll need. After you've done it for a while, you'll probably start noticing any shortfalls (braking would probably be the first, and can be taken care of with some better pads).

Race first, mod later.

Yeah, I like to surprise the Vette owners too. The track makes a big difference in how these cars perform in comparison to others. These cars are better suited to big tracks with sweeping corners. At the smaller track I go to I am fighting with the light weight cars like S2000s. At the bigger track I leave them behind. Many people have been impressed at how well it does. I have not been out with the LS3 yet. Good brake pads and a performance alignment help a lot. I need to change to dedicated tires and brake pads.

Ive noticed that my car does pretty well in canyons and what not. Even surprised a friend in a new sti. I will upgrading my sway bars here soon. Mainly cause all the urethane bushings are old so new sway bars come with new hardware. Also i know i have warped front rotor. Any recommendation on a replacement?

Ive noticed that my car does pretty well in canyons and what not. Even surprised a friend in a new sti. I will upgrading my sway bars here soon. Mainly cause all the urethane bushings are old so new sway bars come with new hardware. Also i know i have warped front rotor. Any recommendation on a replacement?

any blank rotor is your best bet.

Thanks guys. Anything modification wise help you guys out the most?

Search here, suspension section and FRRAX.com
Good shocks (Koni SAs for example) will make the biggest difference, and totally transform the car. Id suggest those with some decent brake pads, quality blank rotors and decent tires + regular maintenance stuff.

I just upgraded the stock French POS shocks with Bilisteins and took the eibach lowering springs off and put the spring kit from slp on. Tires have about 6k on them. Yokohama S-Drives, they seem better then my old KDW's.

You should give Sam Strano a call...he talked me through and is pretty much the man when it comes to auto-x or tracking F-bodies.

I'm a noob too, but start with shocks, sway bars, and springs for your car. Tires will be important too.

If you DD your car, you might want to look into a setup of rims/tires for track purposes because you will go through tires pretty quickly. Slicks aren't a must, there are some really good street/track tires that you can drive to the track on and race with.

I have an LT1, so I'm upgrading the brakes currently. The LS1 brakes are better and you can get by with swapping the pads for an event. If you get serious, then maybe upgrade the brakes later...If you are doing longer events, like HPDE, you'll definitely want to swap the brake fluid so you don't boil the fluid. Like mentioned above...make sure you put in fresh fluids before any 'serious' event.

I saw in sig that you were looking at the UMI sway bars...again, might want to call Sam Strano, he makes an awesome set of sways for F-bodies...probably better than UMI. He referred me with my setup and goals and I'm very happy.

You should give Sam Strano a call...he talked me through and is pretty much the man when it comes to auto-x or tracking F-bodies.

I actually met Sam today at an SCCA event at Fedex Field. Guy is a genius with his cars. He built an 05-09 Mustang for a guy to race with and was pretty wicked, the only problem is that Sam set the car up for how he drives not for the guy who actually drove the car today, so keep that in mind, everyone has their own driving styles and setups will vary.

I autoX and track my WS6 quite a bit. I must say the z06 guys are quite surprized when they get a mirror full of the aggressive Ram air nose! My car is not stock, It's preppared to Strano's Specs, Konis made the most difference in the car of all the mods I've done. I have Sam's springs and bars, prothane front bushings, Sams offset upper bushings, an auborn Road Race Diff and headers and bolt ons for the motor. For more in depth info I would check out FRRAX.com It's all fbodies, all the time...

At my last trip to VIR I turned a 2:23 lap on street tires, that's only a few seconds slower than the american Iron guys run.

Like I said, Sam is a guru when it comes to this stuff, he knows what he is talking about that is for sure.

I was considering going to a track day or some kind of WDCR SCCA solo event just to see how I could handle my car on a cone course. But I wouldn't know what class I'd be running in with my mods or even if the car would even be autox course worthy after the torque converter I'm planning to install by the end of summer. I've searched and searched and can't find much about a stalled a4 in autocross. My current mods are in sig, right now I have the stock 10 bolt with 2.73 gears and street tires. I am planning on doing a couple suspension upgrades before the converter but I'm looking at a 3300-3600 stall speed.

If I did keep my car, i could make it what I want. And I would get a kick out of surprising vette owners lol. Granted it wont handle as well as IRS supported cars.

How do Bilistein shocks handle in comparison to koni's?

If I did keep my car, i could make it what I want. And I would get a kick out of surprising vette owners lol. Granted it wont handle as well as IRS supported cars.

Hopefully this will prove inspiring: The car in the picture below played leapfrog with a Z06 and a 911 S2 during a recent HPDE at Road America. Braking issues forced slower than desired corner entries, and carb tuning made exits a bit pokey, otherwise it would have embarrassed quite a few people. But the car still has a solid rear axle and cornered like it was on rails. The Global West suspension no doubt helped.

http://www.silverblade.net/images/car/TA-small.jpg

Mine drove like it was on rails as well. I took it to the Nurburgring. My only handicap were my tires and inexperience of the track.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/s720x720/181383_2788147761786_1363322802_n.jpg

Set up well camaros ar pretty good. Plus capitalizing on mistakes of others really makes you like a boss. Car is fast and it brakes quite well, but it will never turn like a vette or GT3. But it is fun car to drive.
http://youtu.be/kboUJJ3bxJU

Mine drove like it was on rails as well. I took it to the Nurburgring. My only handicap were my tires and inexperience of the track.

https://fbcdn_sphotos_f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181383_2788147761786_1363322802_n.jpg

That image looks like a screenshot from Forza or something lol

The Yellow C6 Z06 was the only car of this bunch that could run with me or faster. Not even the 5th Gen you see in the back which had a Supercharger on it. The silver Maro, is my son's car and he didn't have 411's in the car he may could have done better on the high speed sections. Surpized a lot of folks that day. Granted this was only an HPDE2 day, but there were some nice cars there. This is VIR FWIW.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/284852_1818869642693_1568700142_31420608_6802980_n .jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/284303_1818867602642_1568700142_31420595_5294500_n .jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/284563_1818872322760_1568700142_31420625_1647982_n .jpg

Set up well camaros ar pretty good. Plus capitalizing on mistakes of others really makes you like a boss. Car is fast and it brakes quite well, but it will never turn like a vette or GT3. But it is fun car to drive.
http youtu be kboUJJ3bxJU

Nice vid. What kind of power are you putting down with your current setup? What's your Brakes/wheels/tire combo if you don't mind me asking.

I'm looking to do my first track event on current setup at Willow Springs next month. Currently running stock brakes/heavy chrome Zr1 wheels/Nitto NT-05. I know I will need to upgrade my pads and fluid at the very least. What would you recommend? noise and dust not being a factor at all. Car sees the street every other weekend and I doubt I'll hear brakes over the cutout.:drive: Thanks

Something others haven't mentioned is to be careful on long lefthand sweepers with the LSx motors. Too long at high G's causes the oil pickup to be uncovered. I've seen specific graphs showing that in long lefthand sweepers, LS3 blocks have oil pressure problems when at >1G for more than 4s.

While I haven't open tracked my car, my understanding is that dry sump > Accusump > Improved Racing baffles to reduce that problem. There are some who like to drill the lifter trays because apparently even some Vette's with dry sumps have lost engines as a result. Perhaps if you stay on street rubber you'll be fine?

Something others haven't mentioned is to be careful on long lefthand sweepers with the LSx motors. Too long at high G's causes the oil pickup to be uncovered. I've seen specific graphs showing that in long lefthand sweepers, LS3 blocks have oil pressure problems when at >1G for more than 4s.

While I haven't open tracked my car, my understanding is that dry sump > Accusump > Improved Racing baffles to reduce that problem. There are some who like to drill the lifter trays because apparently even some Vette's with dry sumps have lost engines as a result. Perhaps if you stay on street rubber you'll be fine?
This is one of the main reasons I limit myself to sticky-ish street tires (NT-05s in my case), no slicks. Other than bolt ons, my engine is entirely stock, and I run an extra quart of oil. Horseshoe, boothill, tombstone at MSR Cresson is way-over 4 seconds of left hander and I've never seen even a glitch in oil pressure. Although I could be wrong, I don't think anyone in a mildly modified car on street tires running an extra quart of oil would ever have to worry about this.

My .000000002 cents :D

Mark.

Hopefully this will prove inspiring: The car in the picture below played leapfrog with a Z06 and a 911 S2 during a recent HPDE at Road America. Braking issues forced slower than desired corner entries, and carb tuning made exits a bit pokey, otherwise it would have embarrassed quite a few people. But the car still has a solid rear axle and cornered like it was on rails. The Global West suspension no doubt helped.

http://www.silverblade.net/images/car/TA-small.jpg

Nice! Anymore pictures?

Hopefully this will prove inspiring: The car in the picture below played leapfrog with a Z06 and a 911 S2 during a recent HPDE at Road America.

What does it weigh with driver?

What does it weigh with driver?

I'm estimating 3175-3200 with me in it. This is a factory non-AC car (3455 starting weight) with the following weight reductions:

Lexan glass all around (saved 50 pounds)
'glass hood and trunk lid (saved 100 pounds)
aluminum front bumper and mounts (saved 40 pounds)
plastic/aluminum radiator (saved 15 pounds)
LS1 replacing SB 305 (@125 pounds, depending on who's doing the weighing :) )
T56 + light flywheel and clutch replacing TH350 and TQ converter (50 pounds)
Wilwood Dynalite front brakes (saved 40 pounds, unsprung)
Aluminum drive shaft (saved 20 pounds)
Wilwood manual brake master cylinder (saved 10 pounds)
LTH + new exhaust (saved 30 pounds)


Further dieting will be VERY expensive (subframe, steering rack, etc), but some will be quite necessary (seats). A roll cage addition this winter will add a fair bit of weight.

Nice! Anymore pictures?

Not of my car, unfortunately, but here are others (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77793420@N05/6983674550/in/set-72157629936020997/lightbox/) that were at the same event. There was a pro photographer present. I won the "most colorful car" award :) The guy in the blue 5th gen has his nose taped on for a reason: he kissed the wall during the HPDE. But, a few guys there helped him get it buttoned back together for the second day of racing. Talk about nice, and he was a real trooper too.

Not of my car, unfortunately, but here are others (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77793420@N05/6983674550/in/set-72157629936020997/lightbox/) that were at the same event. There was a pro photographer present. I won the "most colorful car" award :) The guy in the blue 5th gen has his nose taped on for a reason: he kissed the wall during the HPDE. But, a few guys there helped him get it buttoned back together for the second day of racing. Talk about nice, and he was a real trooper too.

Cool! Thanks for sharing.

Great pictures guys. Question. I need to replace my rear LCA bushings and am thinking of replacing the whole assembly. Question is should I get adjustable, non-adjustable, or juat replace the stock bushings?

I have been auto xing for three years now started in a 98 z28 auto sold it and got an 01 z28 manuel. they are def fat girls but with the right suspension they are a blast. I have tried multiple set ups and bought double even triple of some parts just to get the right set up and fell for me. But once you get her dialed in she's a beast to say the least. But before you hit the track i would def through on shocks and springs at a min if you dont you well spend more time side ways than anything pending on how hard you push it. check out strano web site or give him a call. http://www.stranoparts.com/

any blank rotor is your best bet.

i would go with the brembo rotors yea they are pricey but they work great with the right pads

This is what I wanted to see. I'd like to start Autocross once I get a Camaro, mainly because I don't want to lose my license because of driving too fast on a road, and Nassau Coliseum's parking lots seem big enough for me to be able to avoid a bad crash!

I've never really thought about quarter mile stuff, but maybe I'll give it a go. My friend showing me his twisted in half driveshaft doesn't give me much encouragement in that at the moment though...

Mine drove like it was on rails as well. I took it to the Nurburgring. My only handicap were my tires and inexperience of the track.

https://fbcdn_sphotos_f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181383_2788147761786_1363322802_n.jpg

I love the English plates on there. Never saw a Camaro while growing up though... That must've been great to take it over to the ring though.

Mine drove like it was on rails as well. I took it to the Nurburgring. My only handicap were my tires and inexperience of the track.

https://fbcdn_sphotos_f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181383_2788147761786_1363322802_n.jpg


Killer pic, looks familiar.


https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/405131_10151469427800314_20668759_n.jpg


A well driven and prepped F Body will piss of it's share of "exotic" owners. By the third session of the first day they usually are wandering over to you pit to look at your heap because they had to point you by.

A well driven and prepped F Body will piss of it's share of "exotic" owners. By the third session of the first day they usually are wandering over to you pit to look at your heap because they had to point you by.

Ain't that the truth. We had a lot of that going on at Road America. The relief on several faces was pretty obvious when they found out my POS had a C5 engine / trans. I should have kept the hood down and told them it was a stock 305 with long tube headers.

That is a sweet looking Camaro, btw.

If putting a roll cage in a unibody car, consider tieing the door bars into the rocker panel / door sill area. The reason is that on some cars this is the only area (that the roll cage can reach) that truly has the strength to take downward forces. Of course, chassis stiffness could also benefit.

I like my Camaro on the track, it's a rare car over here. :nod:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa2pe3Pf93g

After the economy kicked my home building biz in the nads I had to sell a couple of 1st gen camaros that did very well on the rr. A few years ago I decided to get back into it, but not much of a budget. My son and I picked up an 02 SS with a salvage title for $6k. Although body work and paint were very subpar, the mechanicals were sound.

After 10 minutes on the first session and a clutch pedal stuck, we found out how important it was to completely flush the clutch fluid and replace it and the brake fluid with dot 4 stuff. We too have had lots of input from Sam Strano and have bought several parts that have made big improvements, including his bigger sway bars, and bushings. I found a deal on some used bilstiens shocks and also found some deals on 6litreeater website for better brakes. Having a set of rims and using NT01 tires just for the track makes a huge improvement also.

I bought an 07 Z06 and although it was faster, I would not drive it like I would the much cheaper camaro, hence I could turn in faster laps in the ss. Just the predictable slide with the solid axle in the camaro vs the snap oversteer that sent the Z rotating without warning was enough to have me change my underwear. I since sold the Z and am in the process of dropping in a 650hp LS3. Even with the LS3 I am around $15,000 into the camaro vs the $40,000 I would be with the Z and just that thought kept me from driving it like I do with the camaro. And I KNOW what it's rear end is going to do.

I bought an 07 Z06 and although it was faster, I would not drive it like I would the much cheaper camaro, hence I could turn in faster laps in the ss. Just the predictable slide with the solid axle in the camaro vs the snap oversteer that sent the Z rotating without warning was enough to have me change my underwear. I since sold the Z and am in the process of dropping in a 650hp LS3. Even with the LS3 I am around $15,000 into the camaro vs the $40,000 I would be with the Z and just that thought kept me from driving it like I do with the camaro. And I KNOW what it's rear end is going to do.

I think there was a lot of that going on during track days I went to. People with the F-bodies and other relatively cheap cars were more willing to push them hard in the corners and so on, compared to the ones driving the high-dollar cars (Z06, Porsches, etc). I'm guess it was because these were mainly not dedicated race cars and people might have been seeing dollar signs. If I banged up the patchwork beast in my sig, I might be out at most 4K, and that would be if I had to hunt down a full-body donor. With a newer 'vette, 911 or 3-series, the price would be quite a bit north of that.

Absolutely!! Add to that, if you have driven a solid axle car for quite a while that is somewhat predictable with how and when the rear end moves its one thing. Take a 500hp Z that likes to swap ends rather quickly if pushed hard and on street tires and is holding a large part of your retirement funds...I know it slowed me significantly.

Yes, an F-body can make a pretty good track car if set up correctly - here's mine playing with more exotic vehicles: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uun8u7CfvtQ. However, The C5 platform is simply much superior. When comparing an equally prepped cars and equally skilled drivers, a C5 is going to be several seconds faster on any road course. I love my F-body, but if I had to do it over, I'd go C5.

Yes, an F-body can make a pretty good track car if set up correctly - here's mine playing with more exotic vehicles: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uun8u7CfvtQ. However, The C5 platform is simply much superior. When comparing an equally prepped cars and equally skilled drivers, a C5 is going to be several seconds faster on any road course. I love my F-body, but if I had to do it over, I'd go C5.

BUT

Any swingin d!ick can go fast in a Vette.

When my buddy and I pull in the paddock with two 4th gens on one trailer they look down their noses at us from the seats of their BMW's, Porsche's and Vette's.

Then after the 3rd session or so they are easing over to our pit to look at the slow ass mullet wagon they had to point by.

The shock and awe of the Fbody is off the charts compared to a Vette, you aren't supposed to be fast in a Fbody, but you are supposed to be fast in a Vette.

I second that, no better feeling than getting a point by from a Z06 or an M3! I love putting my aggressive Ram Air Nose in their mirror so they see I'm on their tail!

BUT

Any swingin d!ick can go fast in a Vette.

When my buddy and I pull in the paddock with two 4th gens on one trailer they look down their noses at us from the seats of their BMW's, Porsche's and Vette's.

Then after the 3rd session or so they are easing over to our pit to look at the slow ass mullet wagon they had to point by.

The shock and awe of the Fbody is off the charts compared to a Vette, you aren't supposed to be fast in a Fbody, but you are supposed to be fast in a Vette.

yeah, and imagine the looks when we pull into the paddock with the piece of crap pictured in my sig.

go fast parts: $6K
suspension and brake mods: $3K
weight reduction: $3K
beautification: $0
The expression on the face of a 911 driver as he points you by: priceless

yeah, and imagine the looks when we pull into the paddock with the piece of crap pictured in my sig.

go fast parts: $6K
suspension and brake mods: $3K
weight reduction: $3K
beautification: $0
The expression on the face of a 911 driver as he points you by: priceless

He he, no shit. I would paint your car like a jigsaw puzzle.

I have around the same money in my 99 Z28, if I crash it I go to the junkyard....buy a V6 body, swap all the stuff over and get back after it. Hard to do that with any other car really except a Fox chassis Mustang and they are going up in price. F body cars are still cheap.

If I ever do wrinkle it up it will turn into a dedicated track car, take about 600lbs out of it, put it on some NT-01's and look out.

BTW 93FirehawkTA can we have some more pics and info on your hooptie? I dig it.

BTW 93FirehawkTA can we have some more pics and info on your hooptie? I dig it.

Thanks. Here's a few shots:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/icordano/MK4_5650.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/icordano/MK4_7864.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/icordano/LMS_4630.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/icordano/LMS_1027.jpg

I was originally building the car to run American Iron, but stopped once I understood the difference in cost between doing HPDE's and running competitively in a series. So now, the objective is to have a stock appearing car, that's more (streetable) racecar than street car, which I can track hard and not have anything break, overheat, or blow up... Some details are:
- 383 na LT1, T56, 10 bolt with 3.73s
- stripped inside, two seats, full cage, fire suppression
- Moton shocks, Fays2 watts link
- Brembo brakes
- NT01 tires (4 years old with 40+ heat cycles)
- AIM dash with data acquisition

Pics in almost the exact same spot on track.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/581371_10151469411375314_1034680606_n.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/icordano/LMS_1027.jpg

What lap times yo running at Road Atlanta? Or really give the times on all the tracks you run, I see you run Barber also.

What lap times yo running at Road Atlanta? Or really give the times on all the tracks you run, I see you run Barber also.

Nice shot of your Camaro. Always good to see an F-body on track.

I've run 1:38s at RA and 1:46s at Barber. Both times are about 4-5sec off what a national level driver could do with my car with fresher rubber and a better knowledge of suspension setup. I don't get anywhere near enough seat time. Haven't done a track day yet this year.

Also ran Little Tally years ago before my major changes. Ran 1:08s there.

Nice runs/pics fellas. I can't wait to do HPDEs with mine over there.

Nice shot of your Camaro. Always good to see an F-body on track.

I've run 1:38s at RA and 1:46s at Barber. Both times are about 4-5sec off what a national level driver could do with my car with fresher rubber and a better knowledge of suspension setup. I don't get anywhere near enough seat time. Haven't done a track day yet this year.

Also ran Little Tally years ago before my major changes. Ran 1:08s there.

Thats quick, I am no where near your times.

I weigh 4000lbs with an instructor and am on 200 tread wear tires.

My first time at RA I was in the low 1:50's/high 1:40's(downhill into 12 and running flatout through 9 skeered me a little)

Barber, mid 1:50's

Roebling high 1:20's(1:28-1:29)

Circuit Grand Bayou high 1:20's(1:28-1:29)


Eagles Canyon Raceway 2:19 on street tires and no brake ducts.

I have a long way to go to get over my corner speed entry fears, I have about 6 events now.

They do pretty good in the rain too! VIR in March
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/VIR12.jpg

Here's a couple teaser shots of next years ride. Still an Fbody, and still an LS1

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/IMG_00742.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/IMG_00721.jpg
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff356/n2sking/P1030618.jpg

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uun8u7CfvtQ


one of my favorite tracks in games. i want to race there one day

Hey just read through the thread and there's some good information. I've taken my RSX to mid ohio two different times for hpde. I loved it and really miss it hopefully I can get the Trans am the parts she needs to go to mid ohio or any other course around here I haven't been to yet.

Oh here's one of my videos
http://youtube.com/watch?feature=m-ch-vid&v=r2Fj74xmieU

I remember passing a couple Corvette in my little RSX. Nobody believed me lmao

Thats quick, I am no where near your times.

I weigh 4000lbs with an instructor and am on 200 tread wear tires.

My first time at RA I was in the low 1:50's/high 1:40's(downhill into 12 and running flatout through 9 skeered me a little)

Barber, mid 1:50's

Roebling high 1:20's(1:28-1:29)

Circuit Grand Bayou high 1:20's(1:28-1:29)


Eagles Canyon Raceway 2:19 on street tires and no brake ducts.

I have a long way to go to get over my corner speed entry fears, I have about 6 events now.


Pretty good for only 6 events. You'll get quicker with more seat time. Yes, running through 12 can be intimidating - Road Atlanta is known for it. Also, our cars generate significant lift at higher speeds as is, so going through 9 it only gets worse and the front gets even lighter - not want you want going into the highest speed braking zone on the course (10A). You'll get used to it though, and you've probably seen the threads on FRRAX that explain how to diminish lift or even generate downforce.

I was originally building the car to run American Iron, but stopped once I understood the difference in cost between doing HPDE's and running competitively in a series. So now, the objective is to have a stock appearing car, that's more (streetable) racecar than street car, which I can track hard and not have anything break, overheat, or blow up... Some details are:
- 383 na LT1, T56, 10 bolt with 3.73s
- stripped inside, two seats, full cage, fire suppression
- Moton shocks, Fays2 watts link
- Brembo brakes
- NT01 tires (4 years old with 40+ heat cycles)
- AIM dash with data acquisition

Details on the Motons? I wasn't even aware they made them for f-bodies until now. Do they still use the stock rear spring location, or do they move it to the shock body? Remote canisters?

Details on the Motons? I wasn't even aware they made them for f-bodies until now. Do they still use the stock rear spring location, or do they move it to the shock body? Remote canisters?

To my knowledge, Moton doesn't make shocks for a specific vehicle. They make a few different types, and its up to the car builder to adapt to the vehicle. The shocks use coil over springs. The remote canisters have fast and slow compression adjustment. Rebound adjustment is on the shock.

To my knowledge, Moton doesn't make shocks for a specific vehicle. They make a few different types, and its up to the car builder to adapt to the vehicle. The shocks use coil over springs. The remote canisters have fast and slow compression adjustment. Rebound adjustment is on the shock.

Interesting...the company that some of the Moton employees started has a list of cars on their page:

http://www.motioncontrolsuspension.com/products.html

...and at least for the Viper, they are made specifically for that car. Maybe that's something they changed with their new company. Certainly made buying/installing them a lot easier.

Sounds like you have the 3-way?

Interesting...the company that some of the Moton employees started has a list of cars on their page:

http://www.motioncontrolsuspension.com/products.html

...and at least for the Viper, they are made specifically for that car. Maybe that's something they changed with their new company. Certainly made buying/installing them a lot easier.

Sounds like you have the 3-way?

Cool. Thanks for pointing that out. I had no idea. The only Moton stuff I was familiar with was this: http://moton-usa.com/

Yes, my shocks are the 3-way version.

They can do very well. I took my stock suspension 99 SS to Road America back in 2009 and beat the bejesus out of it. It did very well on street tires(Yokohama s.Drives) and never did I lose traction. Wish I could report lap times, but it was an untimed event. But, I was doing alright at keeping up with a Viper and some Vettes.

For those that know Road America, I was going through the carousel turn at 85-90mph which was about the only time I could glance down at the speedometer. That turn is like a giant gforce pad. Anyway, here's a pic from the turn just before the carousel...

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/3249_79047081639_5433627_n.jpg

I was in the same situation you are and decided to dip my feet in with what I had. I now track my full weight '02 Z28 a couple times a year. It started stock with only bolt-on engine mods. Now the suspension has been modified quite a bit but I'm still only bolt-ons in the power department. No regrets and loving it!

Btw... half the fun is surprising some people with how well a camaro gets around the track :)

http://www.youtube.com/user/2002Mark2002/videos

Mark.

:drive:Cool, great driving! Love the videos.

:drive:Cool, great driving! Love the videos.
Thanks. Waiting to get back out so I can post some more ;)

Spring hopefully.

Mark.