Cadillac CTS-V - Please help Oil pressure dropping??

Hey guys i just bought a 2005 cts-v and ive had it for about 2 weeks now and just today i was slowing down to a stop light and the oil pressure low light came on and told me to shut down. the car has a mp112 superchrger on it also. It only seems to drop when the rpms are low any help would be great.

Get rid of that POS now before its too late! You can thank me later...

^^ Lol that's some funny shit... How's your oil level? Lots of considerations with the blower on the car.

Hey guys i just bought a 2005 cts-v and ive had it for about 2 weeks now and just today i was slowing down to a stop light and the oil pressure low light came on and told me to shut down. the car has a mp112 superchrger on it also. It only seems to drop when the rpms are low any help would be great.

Does it go to 0 or max quickly like it glitched? There's a whole article on oil pressure senders that go bad on our cars fairly frequently. More than likely it might be it.

Could be lots of things. One being a bad sensor. Another could be a weak oil pump, and the worst being a bad rod or journal bearing.

Sounds like spun bearing. Check oil level. If the level is good, drain your oil and check for metal shavings.

the oil pressure sending unit is bad i had it checked last night.
The shop is sayin that they may need to remove the charger to replace it though??
And are we talking about the charger here? lol whats so bad about this one?

The Maggie comes with a new valley cover that you have to change out since it's flat and has the recessed area's for the O-rings for the supercharger to sit on. If the installer didn't pay attention when installing this plate, they would not have seen the plate touching the oil sending unit so that you cannot get a socket on it.

If this is the case, they will have to remove the supercharger and the valley plate to grind the back corner so that you can get to the sending unit again. The thing that really sucks is that the valley cover bolts get seized to the cover and at least one will strip out (they are internal hex).

If the original installer took the time to grind the valley cover before installing it, its literally a five minute job with the "special" socket.

Don't remove the S/C to replace the oil sender.

You can remove the windshield washer unit and fascia and get at the unit.

Also, if you have to you can Dremel the flange if it interferes with the sender.

I have replaced three or more (I pop these things like fucking corn) and now I can do it by "feel" and I don't remove anything to get at it.

Don't remove the S/C to replace the oil sender.

You can remove the windshield washer unit and fascia and get at the unit.

Also, if you have to you can Dremel the flange if it interferes with the sender.

I have replaced three or more (I pop these things like fucking corn) and now I can do it by "feel" and I don't remove anything to get at it.

Awesome, that was the last thing i wanted to do was take the charger off im glad there is another way.
Thank you for all the help i surely apperciate it.

You can get a thinwall socket wrench specifically made for sensor removal from PEP Boys, or Autozone or Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13150-Pressure-Sending-Socket/dp/B0002SR2V0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337882702&sr=8-2