New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Air Conditioning Help Please!

So my '02 z28 is blowing out warm air but I can't get any cold air out of the a/c, what's the likely culprit? The original owner claimed it "went out" on him before delivering the car, I highly doubt that. Is it a possibility it just needs charged? What's the easiest and cheapest way to determine what I need done to it and how to get some cold air so I can beat this heat? Thanks everyone!

Well if you have to see if the system can hold a vacuum. If not, you have a leak somewhere. You'll need a vacuum pump and gauge manifold to check if it holds a vacuum. The cheapest way to check though would be to charge it, real simple, just hook up A/C pro, it has a gauge with r134a refrigerant and just follow the directions, you'll hear the compressor kick on and once it's fully charged, your a/c should work. If you get hot air again after 1 day or so, you have a leak and it will have to be fixed or you will consistently loose refrigerant.

Take it to a shop, yes you can try the DIY kit but if you have leaks they can track it down. OR just try the cheapest route and see if it works. Its a toss up.

Well if you have to see if the system can hold a vacuum. If not, you have a leak somewhere. You'll need a vacuum pump and gauge manifold to check if it holds a vacuum. The cheapest way to check though would be to charge it, real simple, just hook up A/C pro, it has a gauge with r134a refrigerant and just follow the directions, you'll hear the compressor kick on and once it's fully charged, your a/c should work. If you get hot air again after 1 day or so, you have a leak and it will have to be fixed or you will consistently loose refrigerant.

Thank you, you just answered my post before I posted. Lol. Does one can do it if the car has no leak?

Thank you, you just answered my post before I posted. Lol. Does one can do it if the car has no leak?

Yes, if you have no leaks, just get A/C pro from autozone, hook it up to the low side, adjust the gauge on the handle to the outside temp. and just pull the trigger.

Please give a novice a hint where the low side nipple is. Thanks for the bullet reply.

It's on the dryer

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/bronxmale/DSC03478.jpg

Thanks for all the help guys!

You can't get more explanitory then that. Lol. Thanks partner.

:D pics speak a thousand words

Here's the a/c pro, you want the 20oz.

http://acprocold.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/ACP-1001-75x168.jpg

and here's the gauge that comes on it

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/bronxmale/DSC03535.jpg

how long did the a/c work when you got or has it never worked?

I'm asking because if it's a good size leak and you end up having to put freon every month, one it gets expensive and two since there's a leak it means that outside air can come in which has moisture, the desecant in the dryer can only soak up so much moisture till it lets moisture in the entire system which mixes with the freon and creates a corrosive chemical, which can lead to a/c line replacements, thats why its best to put the a'c system under a vacuum to boil out the moisture, if you're unsure if you have freon in the system Harbor Freight sells a freon gauge for the low side, it will tell you if there's pressure in the system, no pressure no freon, if there's pressure than you have an electrical issue or a compressor issue, a/c repairs at a shop can get expensive because most shops take advantage in the fact that you'll most likely would rather pay to get a/c than to ride in a hot car, see if you can talk to a tech in the back, some should have their own set of gauges and a vacuum pump that can do the job right for cheap, I only charge 50 to vacuum and fill the system with some a/c dye and freon, and that includes putting more freon when the leak is found,

How much is the 20oz? I didn't hear the compressor kick on but maybe it is b/c it needs freon?

since I've bought the car a few weeks ago it hasn't worked, I'm in Florida now and go back home to get my car next Tuesday, my dad said it just needed to be charged bc it was still blowing out air, I'll take all the info and try to figure out what's going on, I doubt it has been charged or serviced since it's '02, the car was a one owner so that's just what I'm going by. Thanks again for all the great info!

How much is the 20oz? I didn't hear the compressor kick on but maybe it is b/c it needs freon?

50 bucks for the 20oz at autozone if I remember correctly. Once you start charging you'll hear the compressor kick on. Also the gauge that comes on A/C pro will let you know if there's pressure in the system. If there is, don't charge obviously.

there is a whole lot more to air conditioning than just charging it up with r134a. it should be obvious that if the system has no refridgerant in it, it leaked out because there is a leak.

My a/c worked until I left the car sitting for over a year. Then after that no a/c, people told me though that the compressor looked like it was on its way out.

I the 20 oz is $50 should I try that before bringing it in to a shop. The guy is always fair w/ me. It sucks that freon is so expensive.

Try it first to see if your system keeps the charge, if you wanna play it safe, see if the system holds a vacuum. Your guy at his shop should have one with a gauge manifold too.

how much are those vacuum gauges? I'd like to buy one to add to my tool collection, can someone post a link of where I can get one? Thanks again.

I have the same issue only hot air comes out and i live in phx its freaking hot here specially with leather seats i think i need a recharge or get that ac pro kit or i don't know?

how much are those vacuum gauges? I'd like to buy one to add to my tool collection, can someone post a link of where I can get one? Thanks again.

My matco set of gauges was about 180, but i also got some from harbor freight for 50 on special, and the vacuum pump I got from harbor freight for 80, the readings on the gauges can tell you if you have a bad compressor, clogged orifice tube, or if the system has a leak if the system doesn't hold a vacuum after using a vacuum pump, easier looking for a leak using freon with dye in it that shows under black light, and don't use the leak detectors that use a flame creates a poisonous gas when burning r-134, don't think you can get those anymore though.

Try it first to see if your system keeps the charge, if you wanna play it safe, see if the system holds a vacuum. Your guy at his shop should have one with a gauge manifold too.
Maybe I will see how much they want before I just throw the 50 at it?

I have the same issue only hot air comes out and i live in phx its freaking hot here specially with leather seats i think i need a recharge or get that ac pro kit or i don't know?

I definitely feel you on that one, my leather seats get hot as hell too! Just trying to get this solved. I'm gonna work on it this coming up week if I can get back home hopefully.

Maybe I will see how much they want before I just throw the 50 at it?

Yup you can do that, I only mentioned the a/c pro because I thought you knew that the car didn't have a leak. So yeah, have the guy put the system under a vacuum and see what happens.

I totally agree w/ you and I am on the fence. I doubt it has a leak. I think the p/o just never spent a nickel on it.

So if i buy the a/c pro and it has pressure I should not charge it? My cold air seemed to gradually go away and it still has a slight chill to it but its about as cool as the air outside. Does that mean i should not have a leak? Just moved to orlando and looking to get it fixed as soon as possible.

So if i buy the a/c pro and it has pressure I should not charge it? My cold air seemed to gradually go away and it still has a slight chill to it but its about as cool as the air outside. Does that mean i should not have a leak? Just moved to orlando and looking to get it fixed as soon as possible.

Depending on where the pressure is at. If it's in the green zone on the a/c pro gauge, don't do it. If it's low on pressure, you can recharge it till it's where it's supposed to be but keep an eye on it, if it goes low on pressure again, you have a leak somewhere.

You can also pressure test with dry nitrogen. Then you can simply spray soapy water from a spray bottle on all your connections and hoses/tubing and see if you have a leak. I have a small one right now and it is the most common type. The valve core on the low side connection. Check that and see if you can see the refrigerant oil built up in it. It will be a greenish color. Once you find your leak and repair it, put the system in a vacuum of about 27 in/hg and see if it holds. If it drops in vacuum a little bit but then holds, there may be some moisture left in the system. If so, pull into vacuum longer to get rid of that moisture and retest. If it holds then recharge it and you should be good to go. And whoever told you that your compressor "looked like it was about to go out" has no idea. Unless they tore your compressor apart and there was damage inside, there isnt really any way to see on the outside that it is going. Pretty much the only way would be to charge it to the appropriate level, and put a manifold on the high and low sides. If the discharge pressure is way low or if the low side and high side are almost equal, then the vales inside are bad and the compressor would need to be rebuilt or replaced. Hope this helps. Best of luck.

Additionally, the reason a lot of people see low charges on slightly older cars even though they never find any leaks is that the compounds in the rubber hoses of the system do allow tiny amounts of refrigerant to slowly seep through over time. It is kind of a way to keep business going. Every so often you will need to buy a can of refrigerant. And so goes the vicious cycle.