Mike K.

I am in the middle of doing this and I already ran a 12 inch ground from the battery in the trunk to a bolt connected to the car body. I am now about to run the power wire up front and I was thinking about using a distribution block similar to what you would use if you were building up a nice stereo system. What do you guys think about this? Also does the ground up front that goes from the chassis to the old battery ground connector and to the engine block need to be connected to the battery or can I just have straight connection going from the chassis as it is to the block?

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

THe ground up front can just go to the chassis. The way I did it was ran a wire from the alt to the starter, then a wire from the starter to one side of my disconnect.

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

Just ground it to the sway bar mount or similar. My sway bar and brackets were removed, so I just used the existing bolt hole for the ground to the chassis. Make sure you grind the paint a little for a good ground. The distro block idea should work well also

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

is there a write up on this somewhere? Seems like this is one of those self finished mods thats always got "?" and frankly I am still a little confused about all of it. After talking with Rex, 35th SS, thoght that you had a 12v+ from the batt in rear well to the starter, a 12v+ from the alternator to the battery, and then a 12v- from battery to body/body to front 12v- cable? Something about the alternator one so if the switch is thrown it would actually kill the ignition? Clarify please?

Mike K.

Looking at my stock wiring, I had a + 12 going to a fuse box, the alternator and the starter. I had a ground that went from the chassis to the battery and that tied in with an engine block ground. Thanks for the other ideas guys, I did take a dremel to my ground in the rear and got it to the bare metal for the good ground like reckless said as well. I will be running the rest of the wiring on Friday so I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

When mine was rear mounted, I used the Painless relay for late model cars to kill the power to the alternator.

I ran 12v+ from the rear to the fuse box directly, and then a 12v+ from there to the starter and alternator.

Mike K.

How did you guys run the wiring to the front? I planned on going inside the and through the firewall but was curious as to if anybody just ran it under the car.

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

I ran mine under the car, but it was not daily driven. I used some rubber cushioned doohickeys held on with stainless screws. Just be vaery careful about sharp edges. Any kind of short on your 12v+ will make your car run like *** and make your dash freak out

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

The way mine was ran one side of my disconnect goes to my battery and to my starter and alt, the other side of the disconnect goes to my fuse block up front.

DaveSchott

iTrader: (5)

If you use 1/0 cables you can just tap into the original battery terminals. At least that is the theory. I've run my cables underbody, going from battery terminals, ariound back of pcm, over to and down tranny tunnel then above fule tank heat sheild on pass side.

Going to test it out before final attachments under car. btw, I found a packaged relo kit that fits the bill, labeled for a mustang:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2469605744

The supplied cable lengths are perfect for my use but YMMV - I don't plan to use an external shutoff since my car is less of a track car. I needed the underhood space for some supplemental fueling devices.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

If you just splice the new cables into the old battery connections, if you have a kill switch it will not kill the car, because the alt will keeping feeding the car power

Mike K.

You guys think 6 guage wire is good enough? Im not gonna be running any kind of stereo equipment and dont need anything elaborate.

DERTY

6 Gauge is too small. The starter might eat it with the excess inrush current. Your lights might flicker while you are driving as well. Might want to consider something like 2ga. Especially considering how far you have to run the wires from the rear to the front. You can expect some current drop over that distance which is why you should jump up to a higher gauge. If you search around here you'll see quite a few posts about this. Also, check the drag racing forum. This pops up there every now and then as well.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Go to a welding supply shop and ask for some 1/0 welding cable. It is fine stranded wire so it bends and is very flexible. You can terminate your own ends and 1/0 copper cable has been the only size we have had no trouble with. We tried some smaller stuff, but it ended up melting.

Mike K.

Thanks Derty, I guess I still have some shopping left to do then. Should I just get the 1 guage while im at it or will 2 be more than enough?

Mike K.

alright 1/0 guage it is.

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

Catman when you see me remind me and Ill show you my setup on this.think mine is a 1gauge marine boat cable.

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

Yeah...in Hawaii you could just go to the marine section at Kilgos and buy 0/1 or whatever by the foot. Napa sells the heavy guage stuff by the box.

I1ULUZ

iTrader: (1)

Try www.mcmaster.com for the wire and connectors.

Mike K.

i just bought 20 ft of the 1/0 guage wire, this craps kinda expensive and heavy, I guess I have to live with it cause I need the space up front.