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Old 05-30-2012, 11:00 AM
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Default break in engine oil

What oil should i use to break in a new engine any sugestions some one recomended valvoline Vr1 Racing oil but viscosity? 5w30 10w30 20w50 idk
Old 05-30-2012, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by navyboys99ta
What oil should i use to break in a new engine any sugestions some one recomended valvoline Vr1 Racing oil but viscosity? 5w30 10w30 20w50 idk
I used regular Valvoline 5w-30 dino for the break in on my build. Someone else will probably chime in and say what a bad idea it is and how you need special break in lube that costs $10 a quart... but I've got over 2500 happy miles on my rebuild and not a leak, tick, or rattle one.


If, by some chance, you are running a flat tappet camshaft, then yes, you will more than likely want to run some oil with a zinc additive to aid in camshaft break in.
Old 05-30-2012, 11:31 AM
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Joe Gibbs break in oil.

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:32 PM
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Brad Penn
Old 05-30-2012, 12:37 PM
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Never run Synthetic Oil for break in as it will now allow the rings to seat. Always use straight weight oil. Most will recommend 30w and often after the 20 minute break in, you change, drive 500, change, and then go to whatever weight non-syn or syn if you prefer.

Some non roller SBC I may use other oil as it helps with lubrications on flat tappet cams but here is some...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-009-.../dp/B002RF8IN2

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/6 VR1 has a Straight 30 but is high zinc to help with the flat tap cams as well.


Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 05-30-2012 at 12:45 PM.
Old 05-30-2012, 01:04 PM
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ill be using Brad Penn then after break in going to the joe gibbs syn oil

-brandon
Old 05-30-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Starkey
I used regular Valvoline 5w-30 dino for the break in on my build. Someone else will probably chime in and say what a bad idea it is and how you need special break in lube that costs $10 a quart... but I've got over 2500 happy miles on my rebuild and not a leak, tick, or rattle one.
Castrol GTX in mine.
Old 05-30-2012, 02:52 PM
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Comp Cam break in oil here
Old 08-10-2012, 02:39 PM
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I know this is an older post , but I feel this is very overlooked and most people think oil is just oil ? Even in roller engines you should use a high zinc oil usually racing oils and non detergents still have these additives, they help eliminate needle bearing failure by preventing gauling on new engine start ups and add extra lubrication and high stress areas like rocker tips and lifter needle bearings....Valvoline makes a new racing oil not the VR this is full synthetic with additives in 10w40 and 10w30 for about $7 a quart on the shelf at most parts stores. I know alot of the world of outlaw modified guys run Brad Penn oil and live by it they are most likely some of the highest horsepower small block that get continually abused. the power these motors are making now was not even dreamed of for a N/A street car or daily driver 15 years ago so oil is a critical part in having a long engine life, the stress's on the engine have not changed just the convenience to make the power.

Last edited by ss_454; 08-10-2012 at 02:45 PM.
Old 08-10-2012, 04:40 PM
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Shell Rotella Diesel oil to break it in.
Old 08-10-2012, 05:45 PM
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acutally the new rotella doesnt have much more of the ZDDP wear additive than any other one. I used to use it in my flat tappet 72 vette but after they reformulated I am now using VR1
Old 08-22-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by baxsom
acutally the new rotella doesnt have much more of the ZDDP wear additive than any other one. I used to use it in my flat tappet 72 vette but after they reformulated I am now using VR1


Please cite where you got that information. I just spoke to an engineer at Shell and all of their multi weight oils such as Rotella T triple protection and T5 have 1200 ppm zddp. Only the straight weight have reduced Zinc and Phos from old formula.
Old 08-22-2012, 10:37 PM
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joe gibbs for 500 miles then went to valvoline 5w30 for 2500.
Old 08-22-2012, 10:38 PM
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Call up Joe Gibbs oil, ask for Lake Speed Jr. Very knowledgeable. I used their BR30 for break in.

They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
Old 08-22-2012, 10:45 PM
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That's pretty much what i am going to do but with Rotella T 10w-30 then switch to VR1 10w-30. At 1200 ppm it is fine for breakin and at $13 for 4 qts a bargain to boot. The VR1 isn't bad either at 5.49/qt. I am also looking at Rotella T5 blend 10w-30 for normal oil after breakin. $18 for 4 qt.

Mike
Old 08-22-2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 66 BADBOY
Call up Joe Gibbs oil, ask for Lake Speed Jr. Very knowledgeable. I used their BR30 for break in.

They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
A little old school but it won't hurt anything.

With Rotella

Fire it up, check for leaks, take it straight to the interstate for varying speeds and rpm for 35-40 miles.

I run first oil for 100 miles, change, then 500 miles, change to whatever you want to use.

I cut the filter open on the first two changes.
Old 08-22-2012, 10:48 PM
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The price of Rotella really takes the sting off those 1st two short oil changes. I got 12 qts for $40. enough for two changes. Going to get a few wix filters as well.



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