zmydust

Hey everybody i just bought a 1998 comaro z28 with a 120,000 mi on it from my dad friend for $5,000 it is a 6 speed and has all the options. I want to put a Stroker motor in it but dont really know muck about the car i live in west palm FL so i need all the help i can get.....

Onyx LS1

iTrader: (5)

are you staying with the stock bore? does it have any mods? a sroker motor is a pretty hard core first mod, lol. do you know what you want besides a "stroker motor"?
...and it's cacamaro <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ March 04, 2003, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: Onyx LS1 ]</small>

zmydust

OK it has no mods but its got a kn air filter i want jet hot headers and tru duels and what ever i need to have about 500 to 550 hp. I got about 13,000 cash all i need is to be able to beat a 1969 camaro ss with a 427 pushing 500 to 550 hp its got a 4 speed 12bolt and 411 gears its my dads and he talks a lot of smack

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

well....with that much money, don't just go stroker.....go with a 382 bore motor and THEN put a 4" stroke crank. This should get you close to if not at 427 CID.

I know MTI has resleaved LS1/LS6 blocks with an unfinished bore of 4.110" for $1,995 +exchange (send them and old block and they will send you the resleaved one). Have them finial bored to 4.125" and then put one of the Lunati 382 (4" stroke) rotating assemblies in for $3,990 (crank/rods/pistons...etc...) and now you have an engine that will make an easy 500+ hp.

Chris

Angry'Z

Not to put a damper on your spirits but 13K isn't quite going to get you to 500RWHP especially trying to go motor alone. 382 bore with a lunati stroker kit doesn't produce those numbers without 2500-3000$ worth of heads. Throw in an AZ speed and marine throttle body $450ish, exhaust and all the extras and you're probably talking in the neighborhood of 17-20K. Don't get me wrong, stroker motors are the way to get torque - just be realistic about the results. 69 with 427ci,posi w/411, pushing 500-550 - Take ol dad to a twisty section of road and tell him to hang with you - as for straight line acceleration - no way. Did I mention that your going to need about 2K in rear end and about another grand in suspension to get her to hook. Spend your 13K wisely and you'll get a great 383ci, clutch, rear end, exhaust and be close to 450hp with the same in torque. Have fun and spend wisely (6 inch rod is the way to go) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Michael

finalymodded

He could go the easy way and pick up a 422 iron short block from ARE and pick some heads from TEA or absolute. Then you could keep your motor you have now for rainy days. then of course you need a few odds and ends. You might wanna save a tad bit more just for those unforseen pop up probs. It also depends on if you can do the work yourself. 13k is a little iffy for 500->550 rwhp. It could be done tho if you can do all the work (assembly and all) yourself.

Chad00ws6

I agree that 500-550is pushing it if you are looking to spend only 13K. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Like was mentioned earlier you are definitely going to need a new rear end and a new clutch with this new found power so there goes about 3k of your money there.
E-mail Trevor at Texas Speed and Performance. They are working on a new stroker motor project that is looking at building with a stock type crank that would save alot of money. Either way they can help you tremendously.

Brandon98TA

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Angry'Z:
<strong> (6 inch rod is the way to go) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Michael </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Why is that?

MechMan

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Javier97Z28

iTrader: (1)

Damn man.. guess you've seen my green Z around town and really liked my license plate huh?

Jupiter is a small town <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

http://zmydust.com/images/myz28/z28_12.jpg

<small>[ March 06, 2003, 05:07 AM: Message edited by: Javier97Z28 ]</small>

Ed Potter @ LPE

iTrader: (1)

I tried to take the poll, but there weren't enough good choices!!!


Ed

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

Is Dad's 500-550 fwhp or rwhp any times on his car? A well thought out stock cube LS1 with a good heads and cam package will give Dad real problems if the 550 is fwhp. Most of Florida does not have smog tests I believe so yank the cats and go all out on heads and cam. Check out the high miles motor real well first though.

Lamar
00 FRC C5
70 Chevelle SS396

<small>[ March 06, 2003, 08:09 AM: Message edited by: 93Polo ]</small>

Angry'Z

Brandon99T/A,

if you look through the graphs on rod angularity <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> a stroker motor built based apon 6 inch rod and 3.75 inch stroke yields very efficient torque and power - that's why the 383ci combo with the above mentioned stroke is soo darned popular. It's hard to beat for the money spent. If you check my sig. you will see that I'm not unbiased on this matter so others please feel free to offer their opinion.

Michael

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Michael, it seems like your talking SBC, and LT1 stuff, while everyone else is discussing LS1's.

The LS1 382 kit is a 3.905" bore, 4.00" stroke, and 6.125" rods.

The SBC/LT1 383 is a 4.030" bore, 3.75" stroke, and either 5.565", 5.7", 5.85", or 6.0" rods.

Brandon98TA

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by -Joseph-:
<strong> Michael, it seems like your talking SBC, and LT1 stuff, while everyone else is discussing LS1's.

The LS1 382 kit is a 3.905" bore, 4.00" stroke, and 6.125" rods.

The SBC/LT1 383 is a 4.030" bore, 3.75" stroke, and either 5.565", 5.7", 5.85", or 6.0" rods. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's why I asked b/c I had always seen 4" stroek w/ 6.125" rods.

HP-GURU

From what I've seen rod ratio on a street motor doesn't mean anything.

UNLESS you have to have a piston so short that it rocks in the bore causing excessive wear.

So go for the cubes, and feed it as much head as you can.

Cubes == Less RPM for the same power.

422's are proven to be an efficient stroker on the LS1, 434 for that matter.

LQ4somona

I think that either of the two companies build great engines, but the warrenty that MTI has pushes me to side with them in this case. I think that I will be having them assemble my engine, when the time comes. <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

myfasstoy

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I think that either of the two companies build great engines, but the warrenty that MTI has pushes me to side with them in this case. I think that I will be having them assemble my engine, when the time comes. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Keep in mind that MTI offers a 90 day warranty on there shipped motors. ARE offers 1yr 20,000 mile warranty on there shipped motors. Something to think about if your not having them do the install. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />