Induction discussion :)
06-01-2012, 02:42 AM
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Induction discussion :) So I've been thinking about some possible improvements and new things to try out for the air intake on my 97 z28. I just did the LS1 lid conversion, and it made a hell of a difference. The car was bone stock, so going from the entire stock air assembly with the donkey dong to the SLP lid, K&N filter, and smooth Fernco couplers made an excellent power gain that I could really feel.
Now I've been reading threads on the SSRA and SLP ram air add ons for the lid setup, and I'm wondering if it would be worth doing, or making my own version. If I made my own, I would make the bottom scoop as large/wide as possible, and slim it down gradually until it fit the entire bottom portion of the filter instead of just being a slit. I want all cold air, all the time.
Now the other thing I was thinking of is what about running smooth/mandrel piping all the way down the front with a filter/s down at the bottom for cold air all the time. It would also be right there reaping the best benefit from the air dam as possible. The downside to this would be a much longer distance for the air to travel, and being restricted to a tubing size instead of having the big filter and super short intake distance of the lid.
I have also always been curious about the IAT sensor and where the best spot to put it would be. I have mine drilled and sealed into my SLP lid, so it's getting the upstream from the air dam. Scan shows very cold temperatures consistently with it there. But wouldn't it make sense to extend it and just mount it somewhere unrelated where it would be exposed to outside air all the time? Or does it not work like that?
Now I've been reading threads on the SSRA and SLP ram air add ons for the lid setup, and I'm wondering if it would be worth doing, or making my own version. If I made my own, I would make the bottom scoop as large/wide as possible, and slim it down gradually until it fit the entire bottom portion of the filter instead of just being a slit. I want all cold air, all the time.
Now the other thing I was thinking of is what about running smooth/mandrel piping all the way down the front with a filter/s down at the bottom for cold air all the time. It would also be right there reaping the best benefit from the air dam as possible. The downside to this would be a much longer distance for the air to travel, and being restricted to a tubing size instead of having the big filter and super short intake distance of the lid.
I have also always been curious about the IAT sensor and where the best spot to put it would be. I have mine drilled and sealed into my SLP lid, so it's getting the upstream from the air dam. Scan shows very cold temperatures consistently with it there. But wouldn't it make sense to extend it and just mount it somewhere unrelated where it would be exposed to outside air all the time? Or does it not work like that?
06-01-2012, 02:52 AM
#2
I doubt there would be much advantage doing that mod. You would have more time into than what it is worth.
My car also has the Ls1 Lid conversion. It kinda shocks people when I pop the hood. There like " that different man, normally Lt1's intake curve and go down" Looks a lot better IMO.
I would just stick with the LS1 lid conversion and leave it alone.
Now get you some Headers and a good exhaust and you will really feel the gains.
Pacesetter Longtubes are affordable and clearance isn't a issue with them. I would look into a Magnaflow or hooker exhaust system, unless you want something very loud and raspy then go with SLP Loudmouth, but that is just too much for my taste.
Oh and a good PCM tune will pick you up some ponies to.
My car also has the Ls1 Lid conversion. It kinda shocks people when I pop the hood. There like " that different man, normally Lt1's intake curve and go down" Looks a lot better IMO.
I would just stick with the LS1 lid conversion and leave it alone.
Now get you some Headers and a good exhaust and you will really feel the gains.
Pacesetter Longtubes are affordable and clearance isn't a issue with them. I would look into a Magnaflow or hooker exhaust system, unless you want something very loud and raspy then go with SLP Loudmouth, but that is just too much for my taste.
Oh and a good PCM tune will pick you up some ponies to.
06-01-2012, 03:07 AM
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I doubt there would be much advantage doing that mod. You would have more time into than what it is worth.
My car also has the Ls1 Lid conversion. It kinda shocks people when I pop the hood. There like " that different man, normally Lt1's intake curve and go down" Looks a lot better IMO.
I would just stick with the LS1 lid conversion and leave it alone.
Now get you some Headers and a good exhaust and you will really feel the gains.
Pacesetter Longtubes are affordable and clearance isn't a issue with them. I would look into a Magnaflow or hooker exhaust system, unless you want something very loud and raspy then go with SLP Loudmouth, but that is just too much for my taste.
Oh and a good PCM tune will pick you up some ponies to.
My car also has the Ls1 Lid conversion. It kinda shocks people when I pop the hood. There like " that different man, normally Lt1's intake curve and go down" Looks a lot better IMO.
I would just stick with the LS1 lid conversion and leave it alone.
Now get you some Headers and a good exhaust and you will really feel the gains.
Pacesetter Longtubes are affordable and clearance isn't a issue with them. I would look into a Magnaflow or hooker exhaust system, unless you want something very loud and raspy then go with SLP Loudmouth, but that is just too much for my taste.
Oh and a good PCM tune will pick you up some ponies to.
I'm just curious as to the different approaches and all the possibilities of intake options out there, I always want to try something new and see it if may be better, and wanted to know if the "ram air" add on for the lids actually made a significant difference.
06-01-2012, 12:23 PM
#4
I made my own duct work similar to the SSRA. I can watch my IAT temps drop to ambient temp by the time I'm just past 1/8 mile. Before this mod it would barley drop that much by the time I hit shutdown area. On average I gained just about 1/10 in the 1/4. I feel it was worth the $28 bucks in materials and two hours of my time.
06-02-2012, 12:28 AM
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I made my own duct work similar to the SSRA. I can watch my IAT temps drop to ambient temp by the time I'm just past 1/8 mile. Before this mod it would barley drop that much by the time I hit shutdown area. On average I gained just about 1/10 in the 1/4. I feel it was worth the $28 bucks in materials and two hours of my time.
Could you tell me what you used, and do you have any pics of your configuration? I'm planning on making a long, wide opening that will trace the bottom of the front bumper or the area near the air dam, and either then running PCV tubing up or fashioning some sort of duct work, but not sure yet.
All in all it definitely seems worth it, I can't see how there would be any negatives at least.
06-02-2012, 12:33 AM
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Does anyone know what I'm talking about with the IAT sensor? Would the best place be where I have it, in the lid where it's catching the upstream from the air dam, or would it be better to relocate it someplace outside the air intake where the air is coldest?
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06-02-2012, 06:14 AM
#8
The car needs to know the temp of the air that is actually going into the engine. Putting it in cooler air intentionally will just make the computer add fuel unnecessarily.
06-02-2012, 08:17 AM
#9
I used all aluiminum stuff from Home Depot, sheets, 1/2" L-shaped for corners, and aluminum rivots. Also, got some aluminum tape to seal off corners. The front of the bottom tucts up under the bumper and runs all the way up to the front of the air box to seal off opening. The bottom piece extends down to about equal with the front air dam. Then you just add the sides to blend in. Kind of hard to explain w/o pics.
I have driven home from work before, 26 miles @ about 40-50 MPH, shut car off open hood and I can hold my hand on top of intake, that's how cool it stays going down the road.
I have driven home from work before, 26 miles @ about 40-50 MPH, shut car off open hood and I can hold my hand on top of intake, that's how cool it stays going down the road.
06-02-2012, 11:54 AM
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I used all aluiminum stuff from Home Depot, sheets, 1/2" L-shaped for corners, and aluminum rivots. Also, got some aluminum tape to seal off corners. The front of the bottom tucts up under the bumper and runs all the way up to the front of the air box to seal off opening. The bottom piece extends down to about equal with the front air dam. Then you just add the sides to blend in. Kind of hard to explain w/o pics.
I have driven home from work before, 26 miles @ about 40-50 MPH, shut car off open hood and I can hold my hand on top of intake, that's how cool it stays going down the road.
I have driven home from work before, 26 miles @ about 40-50 MPH, shut car off open hood and I can hold my hand on top of intake, that's how cool it stays going down the road.
How nice was the difference you felt after completing yours? The cooler temps is enough to be worth doing it alone, and I'm sure you get a nice little gain the faster you get moving.
06-02-2012, 01:52 PM
#11
Every car I have ever seen using that type of Ram air set up gains a couple tenths at the track including my old LS1 formula. I put on a Ram Air hood, the SLP ram air kit(that was the only one at the time) and spark plug wires. The car dropped 4 tenths at the track cosistantly with no other mods!
06-03-2012, 11:02 PM
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Every car I have ever seen using that type of Ram air set up gains a couple tenths at the track including my old LS1 formula. I put on a Ram Air hood, the SLP ram air kit(that was the only one at the time) and spark plug wires. The car dropped 4 tenths at the track cosistantly with no other mods!
06-04-2012, 07:17 PM
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I'm very happy with my SSRA set up. The only bad part IMO the car seems to run on the hotter side. With EWP and a 160* on a hot day like today 90ish the car was running about 182ish. Where before it would hang right at 165. I should Data log it some time to get a more of an accurate temp
