is anyone having a problem with kooks y-pipe banging the floor?
03-30-2004, 02:12 PM
#1
is anyone having a problem with kooks y-pipe banging the floor? i have kook headers and y-pipe on my 01 ws6. the y-pipe is banging the drivers side floor and i can't seem to fix it. kooks tells me it may be my hi-energy trans mount making it hit. everything is in right and all the way on. can anyone shed some light on this? THANK'S mike c.
Last edited by mike c.; 03-30-2004 at 04:14 PM.
03-30-2004, 04:33 PM
#2
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I just did my kooks this weekend with their y pipe and I had to cut about an inch off right before the y and another inch after the y because it was to long and making it tight and pushing it up into the floor.
03-30-2004, 07:43 PM
#4
A lot of Y pipes bang. The fact that Kook's headers tuck up so close makes it worse, too. Some people put heater hose and bungee cords to pad the impact, but the only real way to fix the problem is to do poly motor mounts. I only did the driver's side and it eliminated the banging.
03-30-2004, 08:04 PM
#5
poly motor mounts,how do they help? where can i buy them? hell...if that will fix it i'll do it. QUIKWS6- you cut an inch off the drivers side pipe,the end that goes in the pipe to form the y? and an inch off the bottom of the pipe thay goes in to the cat back? you did not cut the top(s) that goes on the headers,right? did that totally fix it? i'll cut it if it solves the problem. THANKS,mike c.
Last edited by mike c.; 03-30-2004 at 08:25 PM.
03-31-2004, 12:22 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by zwentbyyou
My pacesetter y knocks too. Here is a question. A buddy of mine told me he heard that people weld on a old valve spring to the y and that cures it. Anyone heard of this?
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03-31-2004, 09:11 PM
#9
Y pipe banging is caused by the motor torqueing over during acceleration, which raises the driver's side up (hence the banging). The stock rubber motor mounts let the engine move around more, so replacing them with poly mounts doesn't let the engine torque over as much. Instead of covering up the banging sound by absorbing the impact with padding, the poly motor mounts actually solve the cause of the problem. Many people only do the driver's side, as that is side that moves up under acceleration.
04-02-2004, 03:14 PM
#11
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I installed the poly mounts with a Pacesetter y-pipe and it solved the banging issue. I just did the drivers side mount also. Be sure to inspect to see if the header is hitting the k-member also. I ground about 1/8" away from the k-member also.
To install the poly mounts,
Unhook battery positive terminal, remove belt, remove alternator, support engine with jack and a piece of wood. Remove main motor mount bolt. Now the fun begins
Remove the 10mm nuts holding the small heat shield that is attched to the motor mount bolts. Remove the 13mm bolts holding the mount to the block. These are very tight! I can not stress this point enough. I ended up removing the drvier side header so I could get the last one loose. Maybe another hand from the top would have prevented this. After removing the motor mount you will need to grind and/or drill out the rivets holding the outer shell of the mount together. After this you will need to heat the motor mount clam sheel where it is bonded to the orginal rubber mount. No need to melt the rubber or start a nasty fire just a little heat does the trick(torch is needed for this). You then place the new poly mount in place of the original rubber mount(after the steel mount cools down). Use the bolts provided with the poly mounts to bolt the motor mount back together. I painted the mount to help prevent rust also. Put the modified motor mount back onto the car and any others items that were removed. Make a note of which side of the mount is up before you remove it also. This will save you some time. Hope this helps. It was worth the time and trouble, I hated that d!@# banging on the floor boards.
To install the poly mounts,
Unhook battery positive terminal, remove belt, remove alternator, support engine with jack and a piece of wood. Remove main motor mount bolt. Now the fun begins
Remove the 10mm nuts holding the small heat shield that is attched to the motor mount bolts. Remove the 13mm bolts holding the mount to the block. These are very tight! I can not stress this point enough. I ended up removing the drvier side header so I could get the last one loose. Maybe another hand from the top would have prevented this. After removing the motor mount you will need to grind and/or drill out the rivets holding the outer shell of the mount together. After this you will need to heat the motor mount clam sheel where it is bonded to the orginal rubber mount. No need to melt the rubber or start a nasty fire just a little heat does the trick(torch is needed for this). You then place the new poly mount in place of the original rubber mount(after the steel mount cools down). Use the bolts provided with the poly mounts to bolt the motor mount back together. I painted the mount to help prevent rust also. Put the modified motor mount back onto the car and any others items that were removed. Make a note of which side of the mount is up before you remove it also. This will save you some time. Hope this helps. It was worth the time and trouble, I hated that d!@# banging on the floor boards. 
04-02-2004, 11:48 PM
#13
It will be easier during the header install. My driver's side was rediculous, it took us about 10 hours (with a lift, too). When you get the two clamshell halves back together they could still be misaligned a little, so run a drill through the four mounting holes. Maybe even open them up a little, as this will help the very difficult task of getting all the bolts back in.
