Cadillac CTS-V - Try this on your shifter.

You need a 10mm deep socket, flat blade screwdriver and a flashlight.

Remove the knob and boot.

Remove the plate that the shifter mounts to.

(4) 10 mm nuts and (2) 10 mm bolts.

Free the connector at the front by depressing the locking tab that holds the connector to the plate.

Remove the plate.

There are two rubber grommets that are retained in the plate and also by an insert that you remove via the flatblade (push slowly on the edge captured in the grommet).

All you want to do is re-position the grommets so they are on the top of the plate, not inserted into it.

Leave the retainer in its' original position underneath the plate and install the grommets on the top of the plate.

This will raise the shifter maybe 1/8", but will result in a much more solid mounting to the plate after you tighten the 10mm bolts (they will reach, just be patient and pull up on the shifter when re-installing the bolts).

This resulted in the shifter feeling much more solid and now I don't have to grab and force 6th.

All other shifts are tighter.

It is amazing how much just a slight sag in that assembly will affect shifting. When I used to rock that stock POS I would simply pull up on the shifter and tighten the hell out of those 2 bolts which would have the same affect.. Whether the rubber was on top or not..i think you're just raising/snugging that base up against the body.
If you are on the stock shifter you're just polishing a turd no matter what you try..

why not just take the rubber out and use nylon washers? actually i might go do that now

I have a UUC shifter.

The problem of using a real solid mount is that you are then tying another part of the transmission to the frame.

I just thought it was neat you can use all the stock parts, just re-arrange the assembly.

i have the same shifter with all the bushings and mounts..and still its sloppy..ill give it a try and let ya know

any pics. its hard to vizualize

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/8953/pb020012pz8.jpg

any pics. its hard to vizualize



Look from the top down.

Remove the knob and the boot assy (also the foam if it is still there).

This can be done without getting under the car? If so I'll try it tonight or this weekend.

This can be done without getting under the car? If so I'll try it tonight or this weekend.

Yup, unless you drop the retainer and it somehow misses the floor and ends up on the driveshaft. lol

Takes less then 1/2 hour and if you are good, you don't have to remove the knob or boot, although that does make it much easier.

Yup, unless you drop the retainer and it somehow misses the floor and ends up on the driveshaft. lol

Takes less then 1/2 hour and if you are good, you don't have to remove the knob or boot, although that does make it much easier.


That's good because my TWM knob took a bit of effort to get set and torqued on in the perfect position and I'd rather not have to loosen it.

That's good because my TWM knob took a bit of effort to get set and torqued on in the perfect position and I'd rather not have to loosen it.

I suppose one could "muscle" the grommets out with a pair of pliers after removing the bolts and metal strap, without removing the plate.

Where there is a will.......

I believe I have the technology to pull this off...

Pink Unicorn

Interesting i may look into this

yeah I need some pics lol

Here is a pic.

The two grommets are underneath the two bolts (blue arrows).

A gen I would look like this:

http://www.trafficjams.ca/Performance/KateckShortShifter_UUCBusings_09SuedeKnob_files/image012.jpg

Anyone (besides me) do this yet?

Haven't had a chance yet. Still on my to-do list.

heavymetals - I will try; perhaps this weekend

No one has tried this yet??

My shifter doesn't have too much play or I would have done it the day I saw this thread..

No one has tried this yet??

My shifter doesn't have too much play or I would have done it the day I saw this thread..


Some people don't think it is worth anything unless they have to pay for it.

I tried it 10 mins tops but then went out for a drive and caught interference trying 4th gear and couldn't get it into 4th so I drove back home and pushed the rubber bushing back into their designed place. I have cs motor/trans mounts and pisnuoff shift lever. I could potentially flip around the white pivot ball if I recall from the lever instructions but that will have to wait for another day.

Sorry it didn't work for you.

I have UMI mm's and a CS trans mount.

UUC shifter.

I did this. Took about 10 min. Feels very nice! Power shifted like butta!

Gonna try to squeeze this in over the weekend. Rhett, you still beating up on an OEM new-gen diff?

I tried this today pretty simple took 20 minutes. I did this because i have the modified short shifter with the welded cylinder on the bottom (made from a member on these forums) and I installed revshifts transmission mount insert wednesday. Once I installed the insert (slightly taller than stock) 2nd and 4th would bind. After talking with a member he said it sounds like the linkage is too low and it is banging on the driveshaft. So, I cant give an update or a review on this persay but it def was easy

Finally got around to trying this.. Not a staggering improvement but an improvement none the less. I can get into 5th gear easier than before. If anything this mod should HELP if your lower shifter pivot sits very low and very close to the drive shaft. I have a revshift trans mount insert but haven't installed that yet. I'll swing back and post an update on whether or not I get an interference issue when I get around to that. Probably be another 4 months or so..

My issue with UMI and CS has been the bottom gears being a bit more difficult to get into (2 and 4 specifically)

I see exactly where this is going, and since I have to open that whole center console for rewiring, etc... I might have to do this as well. If I do, i'll be sure to take some pics.

Another thing I did. To make it easier to get the main shifter bracket plate in and out. Once I had the main plate out, I sawed off the front tab that the wiring harness connects to inside of the center console. That way you don't have to fight with that huge plug when you try to remove/reinstall the main plate. And it's not like the plug is going to go anywhere..

You could also just as easily replace those rubber grommet/bushings with a stack of washers, or a solid steel bushing once you switch their location to the top side of the plate. I don't really see a need for, whatever takes up that space, to be rubber once you make the switch.

I'm on painkillers right now, but I'm confused.