Oil Pan Gasket per OIL BURNING TSB: HOW TO
06-07-2012, 09:57 PM
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Oil Pan Gasket per OIL BURNING TSB: HOW TO Maybe we can sticky this? BaMA where you at??
I don't know about you guys but I am long out of warranty on my 2005 GXP. I just turned over 92,000 miles and was due for an oil change anyway.
I too suffered from oil consumption (2 quarts within 3000 miles) with obvious oil burning issues as seen on my spark plugs. Per the TSB I de-gunked the rings with the top end cleaner soaking method. At that point I disabled DOD with HP Tuners about 15,000 miles ago. The oil consumption has now reduced to an acceptable 1/2 quart or less every 3000 miles and I can live with that. Now for the real test, I installed the updated oil pan gasket and will re-enable DOD. Only time will tell if this will fix the oil usage while using DOD.....
1.) Obviously raise and support vehicle.
2.) Do not put the jack stands under the engine cradle because you will need to drop the cradle 8-10 inches during this procedure. You will need the jack stands further back on the actual unibody frame rail of the car.
3.) Remove front wheels
4.) Drain oil and remove oil filter
5.) Use engine support bar as shown below. There is no hook loop in the front but there is a really big lip on the water pump housing that worked fine for me. The rear has an engine support loop you can’t miss it.
6.) Once engine is supported go back under the car. Remove the plastic shield that from the front bumper and inner fender covers.
7.) We need to access the engine cradle bolts (4) and there are two support brackets covering the 2 front ones. Remove (2) 13mm bolts and (1)15mm nut from driver’s side and passenger side of the car. You can’t miss this bracket it covers the bushing for the front engine cradle bolts. See below.
8.) Remove (6) engine mount 15mm nuts from front engine mount, rear engine mount, and transmission mount.
9.) Remove (SLOWLY) the (4) 18mm bolts that hold the engine cradle to the body of the car.
10.) At this point the cradle will lower about 8-10 inches, be careful with the abs harness wiring and the steering rack (hoses) etc. You need as much room as you can safely get.
11.) Unplug the low oil sensor and unclip the wire harness from the back of the engine block and the oil pan itself.
12.) Remove torque converter plastic shield from bottom. (1) 10mm bolt and a push clip.
13.) Remove all 10mm oil pan bolts. Spill as much oil on yourself and your driveway as possible. There is (1) 10 mm right next to the serpentine belt tensioner and it makes it difficult but not impossible to remove. To drop the oil pan and you need to wiggle it out. (You will have to be patient, it didn’t just come out I had to work at it.)
14.)To quote all my favorite books…..installation is reverse of removal. Torque spec for the cradle to body bolts is 133 ft-lbs.
I don't know about you guys but I am long out of warranty on my 2005 GXP. I just turned over 92,000 miles and was due for an oil change anyway.
I too suffered from oil consumption (2 quarts within 3000 miles) with obvious oil burning issues as seen on my spark plugs. Per the TSB I de-gunked the rings with the top end cleaner soaking method. At that point I disabled DOD with HP Tuners about 15,000 miles ago. The oil consumption has now reduced to an acceptable 1/2 quart or less every 3000 miles and I can live with that. Now for the real test, I installed the updated oil pan gasket and will re-enable DOD. Only time will tell if this will fix the oil usage while using DOD.....
1.) Obviously raise and support vehicle.
2.) Do not put the jack stands under the engine cradle because you will need to drop the cradle 8-10 inches during this procedure. You will need the jack stands further back on the actual unibody frame rail of the car.
3.) Remove front wheels
4.) Drain oil and remove oil filter
5.) Use engine support bar as shown below. There is no hook loop in the front but there is a really big lip on the water pump housing that worked fine for me. The rear has an engine support loop you can’t miss it.
6.) Once engine is supported go back under the car. Remove the plastic shield that from the front bumper and inner fender covers.
7.) We need to access the engine cradle bolts (4) and there are two support brackets covering the 2 front ones. Remove (2) 13mm bolts and (1)15mm nut from driver’s side and passenger side of the car. You can’t miss this bracket it covers the bushing for the front engine cradle bolts. See below.
8.) Remove (6) engine mount 15mm nuts from front engine mount, rear engine mount, and transmission mount.
9.) Remove (SLOWLY) the (4) 18mm bolts that hold the engine cradle to the body of the car.
10.) At this point the cradle will lower about 8-10 inches, be careful with the abs harness wiring and the steering rack (hoses) etc. You need as much room as you can safely get.
11.) Unplug the low oil sensor and unclip the wire harness from the back of the engine block and the oil pan itself.
12.) Remove torque converter plastic shield from bottom. (1) 10mm bolt and a push clip.
13.) Remove all 10mm oil pan bolts. Spill as much oil on yourself and your driveway as possible. There is (1) 10 mm right next to the serpentine belt tensioner and it makes it difficult but not impossible to remove. To drop the oil pan and you need to wiggle it out. (You will have to be patient, it didn’t just come out I had to work at it.)
14.)To quote all my favorite books…..installation is reverse of removal. Torque spec for the cradle to body bolts is 133 ft-lbs.
07-10-2012, 08:43 AM
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Hey Andrew91, I know it's only been a little over a month, but I also have a 05 GP GXP with about the same miles and same issue as you and I have to know does the new re-designed oil pan gasket seem to have fixed your issue? Or is it too early to tell yet?
I'm really hoping it worked and I can do the same thing for mine. Please let me know as soon as you have an update.
Thanks for all the pics and the step by step procedure!!!! Much appreciated!
I'm really hoping it worked and I can do the same thing for mine. Please let me know as soon as you have an update.
Thanks for all the pics and the step by step procedure!!!! Much appreciated!
07-10-2012, 11:30 AM
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In my case it did not fix the issue. The oil burning returned after about 100 miles. It burned a quart in 1000 miles with the DOD re enabled. I disabled DOD again, this time for good.
It's possible this would prevent recurrence if I replaced the rings, but I will not be doing that. Another de-gunk of the rings and DOD will be staying off for good.
It's possible this would prevent recurrence if I replaced the rings, but I will not be doing that. Another de-gunk of the rings and DOD will be staying off for good.
07-10-2012, 03:00 PM
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Ahhh....that is a big disappointment. I had my hopes up it would be this easy to fix this annoying problem. I'm sure I'm in the same boat as you are in so I probably won't even waste my time on changing it.
Oh well I guess I'll probably get my DOD disabled too.
I heard others having luck with an oil catch can in other forums, so might look into that more too.
Thanks for the update!!
Oh well I guess I'll probably get my DOD disabled too.
I heard others having luck with an oil catch can in other forums, so might look into that more too.
Thanks for the update!!
