Cadillac CTS-V - Am I the first to bust a trailing arm?

Map trailing arm, looks like it broke right at the weld clean off the knuckle bracket. Good times.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e29/tommycompton/22a97827.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e29/tommycompton/63d2a19b.jpg
Had music blaring so I didn't hear it break or dragging, but could tell something was messing with my handling right away.

The previous owner of my car broke one before... he welded gussets on both at the joints... seem to be fine now

Are u running stock wheels or wider?

10" wide

What wheels u running?

What wheels and what trailing arms? I have the linea corse and MAP trailing arms.

I'm assuming the maps give more clearance than the stock trailing arms? Those don't look as big and as rigid as the stock ones.

It happens. My pass side map arm broke in the same spot.

They are map trailing arms, which are supposed to be more solid than stockers, but I guess not. My rims are widened stockers.
And it was my passanger side also...

I dd notice a scratch on the passenger side arm.


And yeah the Map arms increase wheel clearance.

I still have a set of stockers off my car if you want them. Otherwise, go with Killernoodle's, if he'll make you some.

I still have a set of stockers off my car if you want them. Otherwise, go with Killernoodle's, if he'll make you some.

Thanks for the offer I still have my stock ones too, but they won't fit with my wheels anyway. It's a nice clean break at the weld so I'm just gonna reweld them.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e29/tommycompton/19bc6f6f.jpg
the scrapping on the arm is from it dragging.
I have solid bushings on the rear knuckle maybe I'll swap them to some poly ones I have. Could have been a factor.

Also has anybody put the front trailing arm bolt in upside down with the nut on top? What a pain lowering the subframe just to get the trailing arms out.

Are MAP and Killernoodle trailing arms the only aftermarket options from the stock ones?

BMR makes some but don't allow for more clearance

Oh ok. So these are about the only option then. How much do these run?

MAP doesn't make them anymore. Looks like I will be checking the welds on mine.

Killernoodle is not making any right now.

I cant remember maybe 225-250 for MAP plus you'll want a set of rear bushings, TIC makes some for like 75-100 or something. I'm not sure what killer noodle offers aside from bending/modding your stock arms?
Can't you find MAP's on ebay anymore?

Also has anybody put the front trailing arm bolt in upside down with the nut on top? What a pain lowering the subframe just to get the trailing arms out.

Yep. I put them in upside down when I did my Killernoodle trailing arm installation, but it required removing a couple of threads on the end with a sawzall to ensure adequate clearance.

No indication of them backing out so far--it's been 2-3 months and I just tested the bolts last week. If you're paranoid, drop some blue threadlocker on them. I didn't.

Thanks man. I figured the bolt would need to be trimmed; good to know.

Thanks man. I figured the bolt would need to be trimmed; good to know.

MAP sucks...I think i better get mine beefed up b/4 they break...and Tommy if u spend about 5 min. with the small cutting disc and make a 3" sq incision the bolt will be just an inch away without doing any structual damage.. the same goes with the fuel pump...No need to pull the tank either....These V's are built solid and where u cut does not jepordize the ridiginess of the car.
good luck on the freakin MAP failure....

Looks like I will be checking the welds on mine.
Wow, no shit! That's some pretty piss-poor fabrication if the tubing isn't even recessed into the knuckle clevis. :nono: I guess I should've noticed that before I installed them. Ah well... I'll have to find someone to strengthen mine, too.

Good as new!!!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e29/tommycompton/17c2ddd0.jpg

Wow its a good thing you didn't have to reverse prior to stopping for any reason.

The weld penetration was not very good or it wouldn't have broke like that.

I trust the welding on their now. My friends dad that did it builds top fuel drag cars; chassis and rollcages.

Wow its a good thing you didn't have to reverse prior to stopping for any reason.

Yes I made sure not to reverse. Wouldn't have been pretty.

Here's a pic of the aluminium bronze bushing a friend of mine made.
They supposedly have the same wear properties as poly but are more rigid.
Maybe too rigid?
There is no sign of them binding during suspension travel. I do have a set of poly bushings from TIC; I could use them instead.
I do think that the weld breaking was just from a shitty job; I figure the weld should be the strongest point if done properly?
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e29/tommycompton/2041f12c.jpg

I trust the welding on their now. My friends dad that did it builds top fuel drag cars; chassis and rollcages.

Yes, the new weld job looks great. 10x better than it was

The weld penetration was not very good or it wouldn't have broke like that.

I was going to say the same thing.

The weld penetration was not very good or it wouldn't have broke like that.

I can't agree more, there was absolutely no penetration in that weld whatsoever. I am trying to get our R&D guys to redesign our trailing arms to allow more clearance for a bigger real wheel/tire so I hopefully I can make things happen for all you CTS-V guys here soon.

I can't agree more, there was absolutely no penetration in that weld whatsoever. I am trying to get our R&D guys to redesign our trailing arms to allow more clearance for a bigger real wheel/tire so I hopefully I can make things happen for all you CTS-V guys here soon.

Glad to hear that after the initial set of products you guys have not forgot about us.

Have you considered redoing the toe-rods to make them easier to adjust as well? This has been the biggest thing keeping me away from them

If you aren't going to re-design the toe rods, at least make a tool (sawed off deep socket with a lever welded to it) available to grab the inside nut.

Also, recheck the dimensioning of your parts (spacers).

I had to add fender washer shims to get the trailing arms to torque down without bending the frame.

Same goes for the tie rods.