kevinc

I started reworking my wiring harness for my 5.3L swap. Engine and harness is 2002. I have all the wires pulled that I don't need from both computer connectors and I started going thru the C2 under hood fuseblock connector.

I plan to eventually install air conditioning into our 1966 C10, but it will probably be an under dash unit and I plan to use the stock 5.3L A/C Compressor. There are are several wires for air conditioning built into the harness. Are any of these wires worth keeping if I plan to use an under dash unit or should I pull them out?

I also would like to use cruise control. What wiring would be necessary to keep?

Thank you,
Kevin C

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If you're going with aftermarket air, I would suggest using the compressor that comes with the kit. Kwik makes a bracket.
On cruise control, is yours TB DBW or cable?

kevinc

Its a DBW. I've seen several with the aftermarket under dash system using the stock compressor with great success.

Thank you,
Kevin C

kevinc

Something like this...


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-11301-VUY-A

Kevin C

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Problem with the LS series motors is that some compressors are variable displacement. They're designed to run at different pressures than fixed.
On the DBW cruise control, chec\k out LT1swap.com.

74novacustom

Do you have any info on the issues with the ls series compressors, Im running a vintage air setup with the stock compressor from a 6.0 van and every now and then the compressor grabs and bogs the engine, i actually bought a new fuel pump and filter because thats what i thought the problem was.

kevinc

Just looked all over LT1swap.com and couldn't find anything on the DBW cruise control. Would you please add a link to the page?

THank you,

Kevin C

74novacustom

Kevin, yet i dont know the answer to your question. I would recommend contacting psi conversions or current performance for this answer. Im sure there techs wouldnt mind sharing the wealth of knowledge on this. My harness that current performance had reworked for me had the break out cables ready for cruise. They also sent me a wiring diagram but it got wet or i would send it over.

I just hooked those break out cables into this.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...prod/prd49.htm

It works perfect. Good luck

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

http://www.lt1swap.com/dbw.htm
The 5 page color wiring diagram helps too. You can find that here on the diagrams/pinout thread.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

There are a few threads with the variable displacement compressor working with aftermarket AC systems, but it sounds like the efficiency is down.
Problem is, I cant seem to find out which vehicles have fixed vs variable displacement compressors on LS motors.

69 Ghost

If you wire the A/C outside of the PCM you will get bogging because the system has code built into the idle routine to compensate for the extra load. It does the same for the alternator and some PS pumps also. If plan on running a cam the problem only gets worse. I would not recommmend that the system be wired outside of the PCM. Most guys do it for various reasons one of them being the harness that they bought or reworked does not have the wiring built it. If you have the underhood harness and the engine harness you should be good to go. Use the factory compressor as it is wired in the system your results will be much better. The pressure switch controls a number of things on the variable compressor including the fans and idle. On the fixed compressors they work just like the factory VA unit. Also VA does not recommend using a variable compressor but comfort air used to. I have had both Sanden and GM factory compressors on a VA system. I have found the factory compressors superior to the Sandens although other people say different. The more important part of A/C is to have match components. If your system is a 134 then you should have no problems.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Huh? 02 LQ9, no AC request, Vintage Air, sanden compressor, no bogging, dont even notoice when it cycles on.
05 L59 Classic auto air, saneden compressor, no AC request (serial data), no bogging either.
Both DBW, maybe cable is different.

74novacustom

I do have a larger Cam, and the system is wired outside the PCM. But on a normal day it doesnt bog when it engages. But when im on a long trip or like yesterday when it was 112 outside. I drove 4 miles to the store and it was fine. The way back it kept bogging my engine badly making seem like a fuel problem, but its not. it also would cycle on and off. This morning it could have frozen me out of the car.

Im thinking prob a bad compressor.... Somehow