nateC5

iTrader: (1)

I've been grinding the casting off my LS3 block before painting it. I was wondering if I should remove the casting off the valley while I'm at it. Would there be any down side to removing the casting in the oil gallery and deburing the block?

Thanks for any advice!

nateC5

iTrader: (1)

I guess not a very popular mod base on the overwhelming response, LOL. Does anybody have any reason why I might not want to do, as it might be harmful in any way. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

I wouldnt **** with anything around the oil galley plug holes. I really see very little to no benefit from even doing it. I could be wrong, but I cant ever recall someone doing this.

nomasterase

iTrader: (4)

I think that was more popular with the old small block and even then it wasnt really worth the effort. Better off to paint it with some glyptal to help with oil drain back issues which didnt really exist in the first place. Oh and there called oil galleys and those werent fucked with anyway except to tap and replace the expansion plug with a pipe plug so it could be removed to clean them out

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

You should not have much oil in that area. Oil dosn't drain into the valley like other stuff

Tim

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

The only reason I de-burr it is to protect my skin, that casting flash is SHARP!

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Ruff expensive toys, so i take 4 to 5 hours smoothing and de-ruffing/ deburring my blocks, every Conner, sharp edge and overcasting, as well as sandy casting spots have to go.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

The point to deburring something is not to make it look pretty, or keep your supple hands from becoming disfigured, but to remove stress risers.

Stress risers are very thin and can crack easily, leading to a larger crack.

I'm not sure what oil galleries your talking about, (yes they are called galleries, a galley is a place you would eat on a ship.) But smoothing all drain backs is always a good idea, but don't mess with any pressurized oil ports.

nateC5

iTrader: (1)

This is some good info. Thanks guys for posting! I now going to was my supple hands to start grinding, LOL

427 zeo6

My LS3 block had pretty nasty casting and I spent over 6 hours deburring it. I also went through and ported oil passages in block and oil pan areas, I'm surprised GM dosent have more warranty problems with high spinning LS7 motors based on the blockage I observed in my LS3 dry sump pan. If your not planning on extended high RPMs the block is OK. I am contemplating painting interior with Glyptol as the sand castins are pretty nasty.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I used to spend 40 hours polishing the inside of my dry sump sbc engines. It was a good way to see what you actually have under the rough stuff, and it helped with oil control. They were so smooth, you could have mistaken them for aluminum engines on the inside. NASCAR late models, and yes, this was illegal. Shame on me.

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

There are small benefits to smoothing out the oil galleries. You need to know where to work but all that's being done is blending transitions. If you look closely you will find some areas that have a sharp edge or partial blockage. These areas can use some blending. Be very careful and do not alter the overall size of the gallery. LS engines don't have as much oil drainback from the intake valley like older pushrod engines so there is no gain there. LS engines do aerate the oil @ higher rpms and blending the galleries do help but if you need serious oil control then you need to go to a dry sump.

NEXRACE

I have limited room under the oil pan. We should have gone with the gto pan before we started fabbing up the rear cage in the sandrail. We experience high g force & oil control is always an issue. I would love to get a dry sump but its just not in the budget. What do you guys think about an oil accumulator?

NEVER MIND, im taking my own advice, lol

1. stop thread jacking
2. use the search function
3. start a new thread if I feel the need to discuss it further

CARRY ON,

nateC5

iTrader: (1)

As for an up date, I ended removing all the casting off the block. Both inside and out, front and back and completely deburing it. Probably spent 60 hours working on it. Than I had it media blasted. Next will come the machine work and assembly of a 418 forge setup. And finally paint.


This is an in progress shot.











For complete details on my build thread, I'm documenting it here http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188393

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

You blasted it after you polished it?

nateC5

iTrader: (1)

I didn't polish it to the degree I would consider polishing. I just went up to a 400 grit. All the blasting did was get rid off some scratches and get a unified look.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

And get abrasive dust all over the inside of the engine. Clean & flush it thoroughly and be sure to keep the cylinder liners oiled so they don't rust.

nateC5

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip. I am definitely cleaning and re-cleaning the block, all thread holes, etc. I'm having the cylinders honed but I will lube with oil in the mean time.

I got a Pure Power oil filter just cause I want to make sure this engine run as clean as possible!

NEXRACE

that oil filter is nice, I would like to get one to keep the little sticks & small brush from puncturing a stock style oil filter.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Nice looking block! That oil filter is boss as well