how do you know if you have the OEM stronger rod bolts
06-21-2012, 08:31 AM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how do you know if you have the OEM stronger rod bolts ok i was told that some year 2000 cars have stronger rod bolts than the 98 and 99. how would i tell which i have?
06-21-2012, 05:43 PM
#3
TECH Senior Member
06-21-2012, 07:12 PM
#5
Yes, ARP bolts require re-sizing, Thats why I wonder about Katech. How do they provide a stronger bolt (better clamping), would require more stretch because of higher tensile, yet don't require resizing?
Doesnt make sense to me.
Doesnt make sense to me.
06-21-2012, 10:00 PM
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phx the cactus patch
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
13 Posts
To answer You're question the first design bolts have a smooth straight shaft that is a little narrower than the second design bolts and the first design bolts use an insert that goes into the rod and they are a little longer . The second design bolts are a little fatter with what looks a little similar to the Wave-Lock ARP bolts on the shaft and they are a little shorter overall and the threads are a little shorter than the threads on the first design . Personally I kinda like the ARP bolts because they not only are stronger but they are longer going all the way into the threads on the rod making the rod a little stronger at the big end . But the stock bolts are good safely to between 400-450 whp and 6200rpm's . Oh ya the first design bolts the diameter of the shaft is a little smaller than the threads and the second design the shaft is the same diameter as the threads .
06-21-2012, 10:43 PM
#7
To answer You're question the first design bolts have a smooth straight shaft that is a little narrower than the second design bolts and the first design bolts use an insert that goes into the rod and they are a little longer . The second design bolts are a little fatter with what looks a little similar to the Wave-Lock ARP bolts on the shaft and they are a little shorter overall and the threads are a little shorter than the threads on the first design . Personally I kinda like the ARP bolts because they not only are stronger but they are longer going all the way into the threads on the rod making the rod a little stronger at the big end . But the stock bolts are good safely to between 400-450 whp and 6200rpm's . Oh ya the first design bolts the diameter of the shaft is a little smaller than the threads and the second design the shaft is the same diameter as the threads .
Trending Topics
06-21-2012, 10:46 PM
#8
I have always doubted that there is any real difference with the stock rod bolts from year to year. I bought my 98 Z28 with 71,000 miles, went through 3 different cams and bolt ons, and cranked it to 6800 with the last two cams for over 40,000 miles, and it blew a head gasket at 147,000 miles...bottom end was solid!
06-22-2012, 06:24 PM
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Only the 01+ cars have the stronger rod bolts because of the C5 Z06 having a higher redline and rev limiter (6750) while still having warranties to honor.
That said I tend to agree with moe above. Shoot there are 2 bolt LT1 guys who have been spinning their shortblocks to almost 7000, and they hold up for a reasonable amount of time. If those can, any LS1 certainly can survive 6800 just fine! I'd worry more about a good tune.
Jason
That said I tend to agree with moe above. Shoot there are 2 bolt LT1 guys who have been spinning their shortblocks to almost 7000, and they hold up for a reasonable amount of time. If those can, any LS1 certainly can survive 6800 just fine! I'd worry more about a good tune.
Jason
