New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Know my mods, unsure on order

Ok guys I have a pretty set plan for my car. Current mods in sig, it is an A4 with 2.73s. Obviously I have some other stuff planned than what is below (SFCs, Shocks, etc) but those aren't included as what I need help with are the 4 high value mods.

I will be getting a 3600 FTI converter before Summers end. After that I plan on doing a camshaft swap, a 228R or a custom one, a nitrous kit (for a 75-100 shot), a built rear end, probably an S60 with 3.54 gears including upgraded driveshaft and TA, and a built 4L60E.

Question is, what order do you guys think they should be done if it was you?
Cam -> Rear -> Nitrous -> Tranny, Cam -> Rear -> Tranny -> Nitrous, Nitrous -> Rear -> Cam -> Trans, etc.

Tranny, rear, Cam, nitrous

Tranny, rear, Cam, nitrous

This is how I would do it as well.

Tranny cam rear nitrous. Only because you're an a4. The rear should last without the extra strain of a manual trans.

Yeah. I'd say cam and rear are interchangeable. Esp with a 3.23 gear.

He's got 2.73s. But if he gets a converter that will help a lot.

converter, sticky tires and a 200 shot!

My bad. I'm dumb lol. Even less chance of breaking the rear then.

Tranny, cam, nitrous, rear. Tranny would be what I would be most concerned about, the rear should hold up pretty good considering that it's an A4 and your mod plans aren't really too radical. So, that would be the last thing I would worry about.

Hmm interesting. I'm not sure what tranny company I would go with, probably a Performabuilt level 2 which runs $1800 but then I'd need it installed so there would be a good amount of time between the converter next month and being able to do that. I think the FLT and RPM options I was looking at are even more expensive.

I know a lot of people say build from the back of the car to the front but having the 2.73's will help even with a 3600 converter. I guess another good way to look at it that I really didn't think about is if I go with a cam first and the tranny breaks I wouldn't have money to fix the tranny I guess it would make sense to do that first if that's going to be the weakest link.

Hopefully in any case, the converter doesn't damage anything or get damaged itself so I can just swap it over to the built transmission when I get it....

having 2.73's will not help.

From a strength standpoint I think their the strongest gear for the 10-bolt. Not performance wise but reliability and most sturdy.

I wouldnt touch the motor till you get the trans/verter in along with the new rear. The 2.73's with a 3600 will feel loose around town. If you get some nasty wheel hop youll break any 10 bolt with any gear in it.

Id do the read end, then the trans/verter at the same time obviously and hit the track and youll be surprised. Not sure what gear ratio the S60's have, I have 3.89's in my MDC 9" and love it.. So, maybe think about getting a taller gear as it will make the 3600 stall feel like nothing..

Well for the rear I was going to put 3.73's in the S60 but I think I'm going to instead put 3.54's in it. I don't think the loose feeling is honestly going to be all that bad. I've never had a stalled A4 before but FTI makes custom converters and their 3600 stall comes with a tighter 1.8 STR instead of something like a Yank SS3600 which has a 2.5 which adds to the loose feeling. Plus 85% of my driving the car would be highway or with the converter locked so I definitely want to do the converter first so that it has more get up. It's on street tires right now too but I'd probably have to get a set of DR's, probably just 555Rs.

transmission. (FLT, RPM, and jakes performance are great choices) they have 4l60's that can take 700rwhp-800rwhp for quite a while. 4l80 is the ultimate solution if you wanna go ahead and tackle it.

cam 228r @ 112lsa or 114 if you plan on adding a blower one day.

rear--- 9''

nitrous. Harris speed works makes an affordable kit.

that rear will hold long enough, but when the TQ of that nitrous hits....BOOM! . that is the more fun way to do it. pinion seal might leak. flashing the converter will be better than shocking it of course for the time being.

I planned on an FLT transmission most likely. Won't be going much over 500rwhp if that. No plans for a blower at all, just the nitrous. I originally was going to get a 9" but the S60 is more affordable so for that reason I would rather just get an S60. I was also planning on going with a Nitrous Outlet total package kit. I've heard mixed reviews on HSW.

FLT you cant go wrong.. I have ~60 bottles of N20 thru mine plus tons of hammering on it.

Some people have been saying that the stock 4L60E could still last a while if I did cam first then the trans then rear/nitrous...

Some people have been saying that the stock 4L60E could still last a while if I did cam first then the trans then rear/nitrous...

I have heard some people claim that their 60E detonated on them with their stock/bolt-on car. You just have to consider that a large part of how long it will hold up has to do with your personal driving habits, the current condition of the trans, etc., etc.

I put 50-100 miles on the car per week in a typical week. I try not to drive it really hard. It has 26k miles on it. Mostly all highway and/or 40+ mph cruising. I'm sure with the converter I'd probably want to have more fun from a stop but my cheapness when it comes to spending money make stop me since I won't want to be buying tires constantly

what's your time frame for all this? if it's not that long of time, it really doesn't matter. if you do a cam and then build your tranny in a few months, i doubt it's gonne blow in that short of time. but if it's going to be a while inbetween mods, just do the safest first and so on.

I would hopefully have it all done within the next 3 years. I was planning on 1-2 big mods per year, including the converter that should be done within the next month or so. That would be the only big mod this year.

Technically I could just go full bore and do it all now but it would be irresponsible to drop 9-10k in car parts/labor all at once right now.

After talking to someone, I realized I overlooked the additional cost of labor for pulling the trans twice if I do a built trans and converter at separate times. Makes more sense to do them together. Then I'd save up for a cam or rear after that. Or do the cam and rear together whenever I could afford to.

Just doing a stall isnt that expensive. I think you can get that done for under a G. Then next year re-visit and get a new trans if you need it. I think ur stock trans even with a stall will last a while with just the mods you have now. My friend has been pushing his stock trans with a YANK SS3600 stall for 2 years now daily driving it. Also maybe see if you can find a good condition M6 10 bolt for like $200... that will help you a lot with the stall (the 3.42 gear). You want to ditch those 2.73s when you do the stall. However if you got the money... just get a s60... I just put one in my car and love it... running 4.10s but mines a M6.

I can't see putting money into a 10-bolt at all. $200 isn't much but it is just extra that could be used for the S60 lol.

The converter I am looking at is in the $650-$800 range. Then I'd need the labor cost to install it, and the tune. That puts it well over a G unless you weren't counting the cost of the converter itself. It just seems logical to me to only pull the trans once though...I guess it could ultimately come down to up front cost out the door converter only vs converter and trans together.

I was quoted $400-$500 to install the TC at a local trans shop and another $150-$200 for the cooler install btw and then I'd still need a tune.

I can't see putting money into a 10-bolt at all. $200 isn't much but it is just extra that could be used for the S60 lol.

The converter I am looking at is in the $650-$800 range. Then I'd need the labor cost to install it, and the tune. That puts it well over a G unless you weren't counting the cost of the converter itself. It just seems logical to me to only pull the trans once though...I guess it could ultimately come down to up front cost out the door converter only vs converter and trans together.

I was quoted $400-$500 to install the TC at a local trans shop and another $150-$200 for the cooler install btw and then I'd still need a tune.

Oh trust me i know you should not put money in a 10 bolt at all... but i mean its an option that my buddy went with and has been working well for him for 2 years now.

Obviously the s60 is better but you are talking another $2300.. idk your budget so all of this is for your wallet to decide.

I just keep looking at your mod list... and it seems you are only bolt-ons. Trans rebuild and s60 seems preemptive to me unless you have big plans for this car. This is just IMO and because you are auto.

The S60 that I was looking at is more like $2900 lol, I figure that would be the last thing I do before nitrous, I planned on staying with the 2.73's until then.

I don't really have a budget at the moment, I'm just taking it one mod at a time. Technically I could just call RPM and say, Fran I want all this and have it done but that would come out to like $10k and it would be grossly irresponsible to do that right now, so I want to make sure whatever order I pick has the lowest chance of damaging other parts while making the most financial sense, unfortunately trying to find a happy medium is rather difficult.

Just get a stall for now man. You will like it and can deside to go from there after. I dont see why you would rebuild your stock trans when its only got 26k miles on it... I assume it is still in great condition. My friend paid $1300 for a local shop to install a stall. He paid $700 for the stall, $200 for flexplate, $100 for a tune, and $225 for the install. These are legit prices from a local lsx based shop here in IL from 2 years ago. I assume they would be very close to that today. The prices you posted earlier are way too much.

Those prices would be for a local transmission repair shop to do it. A slightly cheaper option, although I'm still approaching $2000, and that is without sales tax, is going to a reputable shop in DE, unless I catch some sales or something.
Converter - $750
Cooler - $65
Flexplate - $150 (if needed)
Install - $600
Dyno Tune - $350 for them.

CSP has a converter package for $1350 that includes FTI converter, install, and tune but I haven't heard anything from CSP or FTI when I contacted them

Those prices would be for a local transmission repair shop to do it. A slightly cheaper option, although I'm still approaching $2000, and that is without sales tax, is going to a reputable shop in DE, unless I catch some sales or something.
Converter - $750
Cooler - $65
Flexplate - $150 (if needed)
Install - $600
Dyno Tune - $350 for them.

CSP has a converter package for $1350 that includes FTI converter, install, and tune but I haven't heard anything from CSP or FTI when I contacted them

I'm blown away by the install prices you are posting. My buddy must have gotten a monster deal @ $225 for install. Can't you take your car to Maryland Speed? I think they are a sponsor here and probably will have much better prices then you are posting. Also I don't think you need a dyno tune for a stall... my buddy just got a basic tune.

While dyno tune may not be necessary if the car is there I may as well get it done to get the most out of the car. And yeah he got an amazining deal. I don't imagine MD Speed would be much if any cheaper, plus I would have to add sales tax to that.... :eyes:

3600 stall, rear with 3.73s,cam, built tranny, spray.

That does sound like it could would mjs. As long as my cooler keeps the tranny under 195 degrees I'm pretty sure it should last...Do the rear after that and then maybe do cam and built trans at the same time so I don't have to worry about the trans going out then...

While dyno tune may not be necessary if the car is there I may as well get it done to get the most out of the car. And yeah he got an amazining deal. I don't imagine MD Speed would be much if any cheaper, plus I would have to add sales tax to that.... :eyes:

You would be amazed at how much cheaper these LSx based speed shops can be on labor. They are so busy all the time that they can actually offer much lower prices per hour. Half the time I have to wait 4+ weeks to get an appoitment (as i currently am waiting til july 16th for some work, I made that appointment back on June 9th with my local LSx shop). Just give Maryland Speed a call... I mean I dont know anything about them but I have a feeling they can beat that $600 labor charge. And you are going to have to pay sales tax on the labor no matter what... so that doesn't really matter? Try a search or ask in the regional sections by you to see what people are paying and where at... i bet you can find something closer to $300.

Anyway in either case, it seems pretty unanimous that the stall is first! 3600 is nice for a DD for sure as mentioned by others. And yes a tranny cooler is a must! Think about a flexplate just for that extra piece of mind.

Yeah I'm considering a flexplate. I know it can't hurt to buy one (other than my wallet a little more) but the 2 good things I have going for me that may not require me to get a new one is 1. mileage, since the car only has 26k miles on it and 2. year, since the 99 models have a slightly stronger flexplate than the newer model years.

I'll call MD Speed but I'm not getting my hopes up lol. I don't think there is tax on labor for the shop in DE...

Best case is I can get a hold of Greg at FTI and Andrew at CSP and get their converter deal. $1350 including the converter, install, and tune all together. Now that doesn't until the cost of the trans cooler unit (not sure if it includes install labor for it) and it doesn't include tax but still the best deal I'm aware of. If it doesn't work out I'm pretty sure I'll get a Circle D. Chris is a great guy and has been very helpful, and always answered my questions promptly.

i was in your same position about getting a new flexplate when i did my new tranny/converter. i decided to get a new sfi plate from yank. since your tranny will be out you might as well and whats an extra $90 and piece of mind when you plan on putting all this time and money into the car.

Anyway in either case, it seems pretty unanimous that the stall is first! 3600 is nice for a DD for sure as mentioned by others. And yes a tranny cooler is a must! Think about a flexplate just for that extra piece of mind.[/QUOTE]

This! i just put my stall in and im glad i did. my ss3600 feels great and is really easy to drive. and yes a good tranny cooler is very important.

What cooler did you go with? I was looking at a B&M 70264

3600 stall, rear with 3.73s,cam, built tranny, spray.

This.

Your car has such a low mileage that the need for a new tranny should only come right before you hook up the nitrous, IMO.

What cooler did you go with? I was looking at a B&M 70264


I currently have a big flex-a-lite tube and fin type cooler but i also used the B&M 70264. i have the b&m for sale with only 500miles on it (pm me if youre interested).

i would just do a stall and cooler, drive it until you can afford (or are ready) to do cam/springs and tune. then when you are ready spray it. why spend a bunch of money replacing a GOOD rear or working transmission? either may break the first time you drive it or could last for years. if you were to replace everything based on the "it could break" factor you might as well do arp rod bolts and head studs, while youre that far why not just rebuild the motor with forged internals to handle the spray, and if you're going forged why not go stroker? this is how things get out of hand. you have a VERY low mileage car/parts so i would not replace the rear or build the transmission until you NEED to based on failure.

trans and rear will hold til u really put some power down or when u bump the button

My car still has the stock 2.73 geared 10-bolt, and the stock tranny. Just turned to 70,000 miles, and, by my sig, you can see it's making a bit over stock power levels. I didn't figure to have any trouble with the 10-bolt, since the car is an A4, but I've been waiting for the last 20,000 miles for the transmission to give up, so I can upgrade. It just won't cooperate. Of course, if I wanted it to hold up, it would fail.

Did you get a new flexplate with your converter or stick with the stock one? I have a 99 so I think my stock one is a little stronger and since it only has 26k miles I don't know if it's worth spending the money on an aftermarket one.

Did you get a new flexplate with your converter or stick with the stock one? I have a 99 so I think my stock one is a little stronger and since it only has 26k miles I don't know if it's worth spending the money on an aftermarket one.

with only 26k youll be good on the flexplate. the main reason i got one was cuz my stock one came out of my car with 226k on it so i didnt wanna spend all the money on a tranny/stall and have it fail and ruin everything.