New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - My acceleration video.

1998 Camaro Z28. A4, 2.73's, cloth interior, t-tops. 280LB driver, plus passenger (weight unknown). Dying fuel pump and alternator.

Feels kind of sluggish even for what it is but I don't know. Whats says you LS1Tech?

http://s1161.photobucket.com/albums/q502/zacharyb44735/1998%20Chevrolet%20Camaro%20Z28/?action=view&current=73.mp4

And FWIW, it seems slower in the video than it actually is, but I think that's every acceleration video.

2.73s with a bad fuel pump and an extra 280 lbs arent optimal.


but it didnt sound like anything was wrong or appear to have a miss.


if its stock and you came from something faster then yes itll feel slow.

From a dead stop it stutters a little, like there's a fuel cutoff. And there was an additional 350LBS or so including me AND the passenger lol. I'm coming from a stock 2000 Civic with an automatic and before that a minor bolt-on '97 GT with an auto.

Looks like it does alright in the acceleration. Check the fuel pressure at the rail.

Nix

you should ditch those boring 2.73s

+1 on ditching the gears


Posted from LS1Tech.com App for Android

Holy crap dude you need a converter asap!!!

I know guys, I know lol. With time, if I don't sell it first.

Needs mods period.

I know guys, I know lol. With time, if I don't sell it first.

Why would you sell it? With a stall that car will be a whole new machine!

From a dead stop it stutters a little, like there's a fuel cutoff. And there was an additional 350LBS or so including me AND the passenger lol. I'm coming from a stock 2000 Civic with an automatic and before that a minor bolt-on '97 GT with an auto.

maybe its your plugs or fuel filter.

Needs mods period.

I agree!

Why would you sell it? With a stall that car will be a whole new machine!

I'm not selling it because I don't enjoy it or because I want a stick car. I'm selling it because I'm getting married in about four months and any money I can free up to loosen the transition is all the better.

If I don't sell it though, a stall will be my first mod.

maybe its your plugs or fuel filter.

I doubt it. My plugs and fuel filter have maybe 6k on them.

Seems about right...

I agree!



I'm not selling it because I don't enjoy it or because I want a stick car. I'm selling it because I'm getting married in about four months and any money I can free up to loosen the transition is all the better.

If I don't sell it though, a stall will be my first mod.



I doubt it. My plugs and fuel filter have maybe 6k on them.

congrats on getting married,...car seemed pretty fast to me, hit 100 fairly quickly. if you do keep it and end up doing a stall you should vid that and show the difference it made.....

congrats on getting married,...car seemed pretty fast to me, hit 100 fairly quickly. if you do keep it and end up doing a stall you should vid that and show the difference it made.....

Thanks! And I will. I'd also like to make video notes of how the car ran stock compared to how it runs with a full exhaust and canned tune when the time comes. The best laid plans call for a dyno between every mod to show the incremental gains, but I don't know if I'll have the extra money or time for all that.

I've also been tossing around the idea of leaving the motor alone and putting a stall in it, building the rear, and tossing in a set of gears with some suspension and basic weight reductions mods to see how fast it'll go with a stock motor. But at 280LBS, I'm not sure shooting for records or benchmarks is for me lol.

It would be nice to go mid-to-high 12's with a stock motor though.

I'm sure with light mods it'll go high 12's my buddies did low 13's it was completely stock 6 speed on street tires

oh your getting hitched. sell it.

oh your getting hitched. sell it.

But it's not necessary and the fiance is willing and ready to kill me if I do!

Gears or a stall either or will make a Hugh difference!

Here is with 3.23s (and intake/headers/exhaust). Just for a comparison. I still have the stock TC.

tlwnmhe18xc&feature=plcp




-fNRvkL6nyA&feature=plcp

I'm really looking forward to bolt-ons. Since it ain't my DD I'll probably do a 4,000 stall with 3.73 gears and full exhaust with a lid.

I'm really looking forward to bolt-ons. Since it ain't my DD I'll probably do a 4,000 stall with 3.73 gears and full exhaust with a lid.

get some MTs too.

get some MTs too.

Yup. ET Streets with the converter and hopefully that will hold me over until I can get my exhaust, lid, and tune. Because by that time I'll definitely need tires haha.

Don't rely on butt Dyno. My car felt like a tremendous turd stock, it feels slow as crap modded. Every time I get my slip at the track I'm surprised at the results. Feels like a 15 second car.

Don't rely on but Dyno. My car felt like a tremendous turd stock, it feels slow as crap modded. Every time I get my slip at the track I'm surprised at the results. Feels like a 15 second car.

I hear ya lol. Not that 8's are fast (1/8th mile) but I didn't think my car had it in it.

You will be blown away by what a stall and gear swap will do. A friend of mine went from stock 2.73s and stock stall to 3600 stall and 3.42... night and day change.

If this is not a DD 4k stall and 3.73 gears sound perfect.

Is it realistic to expect a .5 gain (1/8th mile), provided I have traction? I currently run 8.9's.

Is it realistic to expect a .5 gain (1/8th mile), provided I have traction? I currently run 8.9's.

My friend dropped more then .5 secs from his stall/gear swap... but it was in the 1/4 mile... idk how much of that you can expect in the 1/8 but i imagine most of it is in the launch.

edit: Actually here you go I found his time.... 1/8th was 7.894@87.52... this is just boltons, 3600 stall, 3.42 gear, and nitto DRs.

My friend dropped more then .5 secs from his stall/gear swap... but it was in the 1/4 mile... idk how much of that you can expect in the 1/8 but i imagine most of it is in the launch.

edit: Actually here you go I found his time.... 1/8th was 7.894@87.52... this is just boltons, 3600 stall, 3.42 gear, and nitto DRs.

Then .5 in the 1/8th may be a little much. Because as-is I'm already pulling 2.0 sixty foots so unless it's gonna drop me to a 1.6-1.7 60' otherwise stock I don't think I'm gonna pull low 8's.

But then again, my sixties are with 235 all-season tires and 2.73 gears, so with a 4,000 stall, shift kit, and 3.73's 1.6-1.7 sixties may be possible. I'll just have to see I suppose. :punch:

Then .5 in the 1/8th may be a little much. Because as-is I'm already pulling 2.0 sixty foots so unless it's gonna drop me to a 1.6-1.7 60' otherwise stock I don't think I'm gonna pull low 8's.

But then again, my sixties are with 235 all-season tires and 2.73 gears, so with a 4,000 stall, shift kit, and 3.73's 1.6-1.7 sixties may be possible. I'll just have to see I suppose. :punch:

My friend pulls 1.7x 60 foots all day long with bolt ons and the mods i posted earlier. You will absolutely need a DR once you get a stall if you want 1.7 or better 60 foots.

My friend pulls 1.7x 60 foots all day long with bolt ons and the mods i posted earlier. You will absolutely need a DR once you get a stall if you want 1.7 or better 60 foots.

I'm gonna try to run ET Streets as long as possible, but if traction becomes that big of an issue I will eventually take the dive and buy drag radials.

To be honest you should gain a lot just by running in good weather and basic bolt ons... I ran 8.6 bone stock on 2.1 60fts in pretty good air. Getting down from 8.9 shouldn't be too difficult I wouldn't think.

To be honest you should gain a lot just by running in good weather and basic bolt ons... I ran 8.6 bone stock on 2.1 60fts in pretty good air. Getting down from 8.9 shouldn't be too difficult I wouldn't think.

But I don't want to have to depend on negative DA for a decent ET. I think my runs were at 1,700-2,000FT DA and the actual elevation is about 1,200FT. And until I fix whatever is making my car stutter off the line and through low RPM's, I think I'm stuck running 8.9's-9.0's.

I have no doubt I can run an 8.6-8.7 bone stock without issues.

You won't need negative... but even 2000DA vs 0DA makes a big difference. Reality is being NA you do kind of need to rely on negative DA to run great ETs. I remember when I first got my LS1 car all I could get from it was 13.4 and 13.5 passes. I ended up running just a few weeks before the first snow hit the ground before I managed to get a good time out of it. I don't even run the car in the summer anymore because the times are so bad.

You won't need negative... but even 2000DA vs 0DA makes a big difference. Reality is being NA you do kind of need to rely on negative DA to run great ETs. I remember when I first got my LS1 car all I could get from it was 13.4 and 13.5 passes. I ended up running just a few weeks before the first snow hit the ground before I managed to get a good time out of it. I don't even run the car in the summer anymore because the times are so bad.

Do you still have your 8.6 time slip? If so what was your 60', 330', ET, and MPH exactly?

I carry my 8.9 slip with me in my wallet. I've been called out on my time a few times now. :D

Do you still have your 8.6 time slip? If so what was your 60', 330', ET, and MPH exactly?

I carry my 8.9 slip with me in my wallet. I've been called out on my time a few times now. :D

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18487098/2vmwy15.jpg

My wife actually did much better but didn't have the same conditions...
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18487098/WifeTimeSlip.jpg

I need to figure out why I'm losing so much towards the end of the track.

RT .126
60' 2.086
330' 5.911
ET 8.997
MPH 80.915

It seems I was right on par with your 8.6 run until after the 330'.