Cadillac CTS-V - Temperature after Maggie install

It was about 75 - 80 degrees yesterday and I took the V out to see what the Oil Temp and Engine Temp hung around when cruising and I didn't really get on it much. I can't imagine what it would be like in some traffic.

Engine Temp hung around 225
Oil Temp hung around 220 - 230

Got home popped the hood and said "Damn its hot under here"

:confused: :confused:

Time for an oil cooler?

That's a tiny bit hot. But I wouldnt call it un-normal. I run usually around 195-215

Why I want a Maggie and a vented hood...

oil temp should always be over 212F once warmed up. engine coolant seems a little hot, did you flush the system and put new coolant in when you did the maggie?

Time for an oil cooler?

I wouldn’t know the first thing about oil coolers or where they mount.

Why I want a Maggie and a vented hood...

I love how the V pulls god I love it. I do plan to get a vented hood soon and I wish I jumped on the Group Buy for the hoods a couple months ago but I had this project to take care of first.

oil temp should always be over 212F once warmed up. engine coolant seems a little hot, did you flush the system and put new coolant in when you did the maggie?

I did see the oil temp jump from 225 to 215 a few times. I’m gonna get the fans adjusted this afternoon when I get home from work so I hope that helps. And I may order a 160 or 180 t-stat soon. I didn’t do the install because a cam was involved too so I had a shop do the whole install but I’m gonna ask them when I go up there this afternoon about a full flush.

I need to get this thing dyno tuned but want to wait for a somewhat cooler day because the day I got it back it was 95 here. Took some time to get it complete because I needed to order additional parts and the intercooler that came with the setup that some knucklehead sold me didn't go with the kit so I had to order another intercooler. So hopefully I can send the wrong intercooler back but if not then I'll turn it into a table.

I would not recommend an oil cooler unless you plan to track the car, its just unnecessary. Also getting a colder thermostat will not help bring your coolant temps down. The factory one is 195* so at any temperature over that it is trying to cool the coolant down. I would first flush the coolant and see if that helps.

I would not recommend an oil cooler unless you plan to track the car, its just unnecessary. Also getting a colder thermostat will not help bring your coolant temps down. The factory one is 195* so at any temperature over that it is trying to cool the coolant down. I would first flush the coolant and see if that helps.

gotcha! I'll check the coolant first and go from there.

I would not recommend an oil cooler unless you plan to track the car, its just unnecessary. Also getting a colder thermostat will not help bring your coolant temps down. The factory one is 195* so at any temperature over that it is trying to cool the coolant down. I would first flush the coolant and see if that helps.

Unless he starts driving more aggressively and regularly experiences oil temps above 250F.

The thermostat mod is apparently unnecessary if you have the car tuned. My tuner has my CTS-V set to bring the radiator fans on sooner and harder than they were normally set to.

Unless he starts driving more aggressively and regularly experiences oil temps above 250F.

The thermostat mod is apparently unnecessary if you have the car tuned. My tuner has my CTS-V set to bring the radiator fans on sooner and harder than they were normally set to.

Thermostat and fans are two entirely separate things. After a 160 tstat you need to go fiddle with the fan settings also to kick them in sooner.

Both mods are of 'questionable' value. And yes I've messed around with tstat/fan settings. On a hot sticky day neither is going to save you from overheating.

How does this compare to what you had before the Maggie install? I have never seen above 215*, and that was with the A/C on while parked on 95 in a traffic jam. If you are seeing coolant temps that high, you have something going on that needs attention. I have noticed that the coolant temps get higher if I am lugging the engine (around 2k or less) and then cools down after a quick jaunt over 3500...I think the water pumps are designed for higher RPM use and do not help our situation during regular driving.

Out of curiosity, what are your IAT's doing?

I would not worry about oil temps unless you have a turbo that you are feeding. I swear, if we didn't have a damn oil temp gauge to obsess over, nobody would make an issue of it.

How does this compare to what you had before the Maggie install? I have never seen above 215*, and that was with the A/C on while parked on 95 in a traffic jam. If you are seeing coolant temps that high, you have something going on that needs attention. I have noticed that the coolant temps get higher if I am lugging the engine (around 2k or less) and then cools down after a quick jaunt over 3500...I think the water pumps are designed for higher RPM use and do not help our situation during regular driving.

Out of curiosity, what are your IAT's doing?

I would not worry about oil temps unless you have a turbo that you are feeding. I swear, if we didn't have a damn oil temp gauge to obsess over, nobody would make an issue of it.

I honsetly dont remember the temps before the install. When I picked up the car last week on that HOT (95degree) day my IAT was around 190 degrees.

I honsetly dont remember the temps before the install. When I picked up the car last week on that HOT (95degree) day my IAT was around 190 degrees.

Was the 190 stopped, or cruising? If cruising that is mighty hot, time to start mething around and checking for gremlins. Maybe check the maggie intercooler.

Was the 190 stopped, or cruising? If cruising that is mighty hot, time to start mething around and checking for gremlins. Maybe check the maggie intercooler.

stopped after a couple little pulls to see how the maggie feels.

When I go to the shop this afternoon I'll have them check everything out.

V's heatsoak pretty quick if stopped, I'd try to get a cruising temp on your way to the shop. Crusing temp will give you a more accurate picture of how big of a problem you have if any at all. Good luck sir.

V's heatsoak pretty quick if stopped, I'd try to get a cruising temp on your way to the shop. Crusing temp will give you a more accurate picture of how big of a problem you have if any at all. Good luck sir.

thank you. I'll keep you posted

My oil never goes above 212, coolant just over 200. 190° iat sounds extremely high, definitely check the intercooler system.

if the engine is hot and off the iat's will be 190+ u gotta have the car running to get a good base line. mine at its hottest just sitting there running in 90 weather is about 150.

once u shut the engine down ,there is no airflow and the maggie soaks all the heat up

My car likes to be at about 170 driving. if i flog it for a little and then end up at a light... they like to creep over 210 sometimes. Most it doesnt break 210 after some hard driving.

Agree 190* is way too high for IAT's, even with an OD setup. I would look at the HEX pump or to see if the system is completely filled. This is what I had to ensure the system was completely filled:

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=212&products_id=1064&osCsid=4480f543da57549d40c2ff3287f8bdef

IMO you will never get all of the air out of the system unless you have this. Best $25 I ever spent. Install it as close to the Maggie on the passenger side, close to the pulley. When you fill the system, wedge a funnel in there and keep it filled while the pump runs and lift up on the hose to make the funnel the highest point. Even with this, it still takes about 20 mins and a good heat cycle to bleed all of the air out of the system. If you don't have this, there's no chance IMO.

I would also recommend Water Wetter (or something similar)...the stuff actually works even with lower temp systems like the HEX.

I can't post a pic at the moment...but if you like, PM me your email address and I'll send you a pic of what i'm talking about.

I would also recommend Water Wetter (or something similar)...the stuff actually works even with lower temp systems like the HEX.

Absolutely agree. Here's a comparison between Redline Water Wetter (which I use, since it's easy to find) and AMSOIL Dominator.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rdcb.aspx

Cruising coolant temp on the way home from the shop was 197 and when stopped it was 206-209 and my oil temp was 215-220. I didnt get a chance to check the IAT.

DMM where in maryland do you live? hint hint. lol...I'll check into water wetter or Amsoil boost.

Thanks for the help guys I apperciate it.

When in country, I am in Howard County between Laurel and Columbia..near I-95 and 216.

When in country, I am in Howard County between Laurel and Columbia..near I-95 and 216.

o ok I'm about 15-20 mins from the area. Odenton here my backyard is crapital raceway.

im from Laurel(right off of 198) and now live in Olney and work in Rockville. SO many locals. LOL

Can I has your maggie please?

im from Laurel(right off of 198) and now live in Olney and work in Rockville. SO many locals. LOL

Can I has your maggie please?

Let me think about it .........

























http://serve.mysmiley.net/sign/sign0186.gif (http://www.blueislandsdiving.com)

I was looking over the engine yesterday and I noticed the 2 nipples under the TB that are attached to the TB which are part of the coolant system do not have hoses running from them. But according to the Magnacharger install (#147 and #150) it says attach hose. Am I missing something wouldn't that help cool the intake? :confused:

I was looking over the engine yesterday and I noticed the 2 nipples under the TB that are attached to the TB which are part of the coolant system do not have hoses running from them. But according to the Magnacharger install (#147 and #150) it says attach hose. Am I missing something wouldn't that help cool the intake? :confused:

No you do not need to run the coolant through there, those nipples are simply a pass though to keep the coolant line from getting tangled in the belt. They serve no cooling purpose. The coolant running through there is approx 200 degrees when the motor is warmed up so its actually detrimental to run coolant through the TB. You can remove those nipples from the TB. As further proof on the matter look at any aftermarket TB you can get FAST or NW none of them have the coolant pass through.

GM used to believe there was a far off chance that a dry throttle blade had the potential to stick since it had the possibility of being a different temperature than the throttle body housing (that was heated by the engine compartment) with constant air passing over it.

This was an unconfirmed fear and GM did away with the TB coolant hoses around 2005. They only serve to heat the incoming air that passes through the TB.

And its also a VERY common modification to do by removing those hoses as it hurts HP because of the added temps.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/1283485-what-point-throttle-body-bypass-mod.html

There is an idea

im from Laurel(right off of 198) and now live in Olney and work in Rockville. SO many locals. LOL

How ironic...I was born in Olney (Norbeck Rd), and grew up in Laurel. I now own a house in Sykesville (rented) and stay in Laurel when I am here. Your right....lots of locals.

I have seen a few V's when I cut through Rockville on my way home...always silver though. Have seen two or three of them in Sykesville as well.

I ran into a guy in Fulton (Howard County) and he ended up with the silver 09 that was sent to Germany for all of the speed/track testing. Seems Miller Brother's Cadillac was the only dealer in the country that had an early V that was not already spoken for...so GM bought it back and shipped it to Deutschland for testing...then sent it back to Miller Bros when finished, where the guy I met purchased it since he was looking at a year long wait for a new one.

Again, lots of locals...but none of them seem to be on here.

Sorry for getting off topic OP.

How ironic...I was born in Olney (Norbeck Rd), and grew up in Laurel. I now own a house in Sykesville (rented) and stay in Laurel when I am here. Your right....lots of locals.

I have seen a few V's when I cut through Rockville on my way home...always silver though. Have seen two or three of them in Sykesville as well.

I ran into a guy in Fulton (Howard County) and he ended up with the silver 09 that was sent to Germany for all of the speed/track testing. Seems Miller Brother's Cadillac was the only dealer in the country that had an early V that was not already spoken for...so GM bought it back and shipped it to Deutschland for testing...then sent it back to Miller Bros when finished, where the guy I met purchased it since he was looking at a year long wait for a new one.

Again, lots of locals...but none of them seem to be on here.

Sorry for getting off topic OP.

no problem

So would a 92mm TB work on a maggie? I was going to do an LS2 TB but found out they are 4 bolts.

no problem

So would a 92mm TB work on a maggie? I was going to do an LS2 TB but found out they are 4 bolts.

you need to change the maggie snout for anything different than the 78mm

no problem

So would a 92mm TB work on a maggie? I was going to do an LS2 TB but found out they are 4 bolts.

A 90 mm TB will work...but...you have to get an LS2 TB, adapter harness, get the LS2 snout adapter for the Maggie (usually built to order, may take a while), modify the PCV hose routing, and modify the evap vapor solenoid hoses. Then you have to get a tune to change the scaler for the TB. You are looking at nearly $500 for the conversion.

The worst part is, while you would think the 90mm would gain power, it absolutely does not. I believe that most have seen 3-5 hp increase...which is most likely attributed to the tune, not the TB.

you need to change the maggie snout for anything different than the 78mm

Any clue where to get the snout and how much? Another 500 roughly? Maybe I'll hold off on this mod for alittle bit.

Nice. mine is garaged at work and home. And I drive georgia and norbeck EVERY day.

A 90 mm TB will work...but...you have to get an LS2 TB, adapter harness, get the LS2 snout adapter for the Maggie (usually built to order, may take a while), modify the PCV hose routing, and modify the evap vapor solenoid hoses. Then you have to get a tune to change the scaler for the TB. You are looking at nearly $500 for the conversion.

The worst part is, while you would think the 90mm would gain power, it absolutely does not. I believe that most have seen 3-5 hp increase...which is most likely attributed to the tune, not the TB.

The LS2 TB is expensive because it's hard to find, IMO. Recommend having your existing TB professionally rebuilt, ported, and polished if you want to mess with it.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1532762-ported-throttle-bodies-awesome.html

I believe the coolant running through the TB is for emissions... Heating up the incoming air

I believe the coolant running through the TB is for emissions... Heating up the incoming air

you are correct..

The LS2 TB is expensive because it's hard to find, IMO. Recommend having your existing TB professionally rebuilt, ported, and polished if you want to mess with it.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1532762-ported-throttle-bodies-awesome.html

Probably go this route.

I'm just glad some engineer didn't have the genius idea of installing an EGR system on these cars.

I'm just glad some engineer didn't have the genius idea of installing an EGR system on these cars.

yeah no kidding.

I want to delete the EVAP to make it easier to install my FRCs.

I need to order one of those inline fillers. Hey DMM did you just cut your hose to fit the inline filler?

Good ole heat soak lol. Hopefully ill get to see you down OC in the fall. Then we can run the train on biggie and have him ordering parts by the time he gets home.

I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.

Good ole heat soak lol. Hopefully ill get to see you down OC in the fall. Then we can run the train on biggie and have him ordering parts by the time he gets home.

I would use the water wetter like suggested, and if you have a heat exchanger pump I would absolutely make sure it is actually pumping the way it should. Its a huge problem on the 03 cobras once they fail everything gets hot.

haha yeah I hope to make the fall cruise being as I missed the spring one. I'm gonna check into the water wetter. I dont know much about it but do I flush the system, add new coolant and then add it or do I just add it?

Yeah yeah yeah yeah... No monies right now. SAving for a used maggie so I can pounce when they are ready... NEED MORE POWER.

yeah no kidding.

I want to delete the EVAP to make it easier to install my FRCs.



Outside of removing an ounce or two of weight, does deleting the evap on these cars yield anything? Just one less thing that can break I'm guessing.

Yeah yeah yeah yeah... No monies right now. SAving for a used maggie so I can pounce when they are ready... NEED MORE POWER.

I know a polished one for sale for $4500 may be. A guy here in town has it for a project he was working on, but then sold the car. He mentioned selling it not long ago.

Hmm PM me the info. I pray for a LS2 V. If not I need to research whats needed.

These and most newer cars bleed themselves so no need to do any kind of manual bleeding. If your car isnt bleeding properly then get a new reservoir cap.


EDIT: I didnt notice there were 3 pages to this..haha. I'm writing about something I saw on the first page. Ignore me.

Hmm PM me the info. I pray for a LS2 V. If not I need to research whats needed.

90mm LS2 snout, fuel injector adapters, and LS2 valley cover. You're looking at $300-$350 for everything. You will also have to extend the throttle body harness to reach. My old Maggie went on an LS2. Not hard at all.

If you can do $4500-$5000...you're better off with an E-Force.

Doh! No it's for a ls6.

link to a eforce?

haha yeah I hope to make the fall cruise being as I missed the spring one. I'm gonna check into the water wetter. I dont know much about it but do I flush the system, add new coolant and then add it or do I just add it?

If your coolant is clean just add it no need to flush.

link to a eforce?

Heh, 4500-5500. Not gonna happen on an E-Force. You may get a base unit for that price.

Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.

Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)

Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.

What did you do about the top nipple? They only supplied me with 1 screw cap and I have 2 holes to cap it looks like.

Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."

I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend

What did you do about the top nipple? They only supplied me with 1 screw cap and I have 2 holes to cap it looks like.

Edit: Just read and the site says "it is common to just leave it open since your system should not exceed the cap pressure."

I got the filler cap and water wetter. Project for the weekend

Find a block off screw... or you could route a hose off that and make an overflow reservoir.

Find a block off screw... or you could route a hose off that and make an overflow reservoir.

I may go to autozone or advanced auto after work and see what they may have or maybe go to lowes and see what they have.

on a 93°F/34°C day

sitting traffic heat soaked / slow moving or stopped
Oil temp ~ 224°F / 107°C
Coolant no higher than 92°C / 197°F
IAT (procharged / FMIntercooled) no boost ~41°C / 106°F

Highway moving:
Oil about the same
Coolant 81-83°C / 178-182°F


Running two 12" Derale 16925 over 4400cfm pushers
lower stat and tuned for the above coolant temps

Heh, 4500-5500. Not gonna happen on an E-Force. You may get a base unit for that price.

Make sure you get pricing on the following before you believe some crap a vendor is feeding you.

Fuel rail crossover 50
Fuel Y Block and lines 100
Pulley 35
fuel pump or BAP 100-300
Injectors 400
Belt 50
HEX 400
Tune 400-600
Intake 100-400 Depending on what you have to start
Installation 1500 or DIY (hope your creative because its not a kit)

Make sure you consider this stuff if your on a budget.

Went a different route for power adder... :D
http://www.speedjunkyz.com/images/smilies/nos_smile.gif